Well, I blew my 2nd auto tranny and decided to go 5spd. So, over the weekend i bought a cheap max in the area with a FRIED clutch(put it in 1st, let out the clutch, car sat in one place). I swapped everything over and went with a 01 Clutch Disc, 01 Pressure Plate, 01 Release bearing(throw-out) and 01 Pilot bearing.


For starters, the ENTIRE bellhousing was filled with black/grayish gunk everywhere ( i guess gear oil???) So i proceeded to clean it all out. I go to install the Pilot bearing on my car, IT DOESNT FIT!! So i decided not to use one(was that the wrong thing to do??).. I get everything installed etc etc.. I ran into a 4-5 wire plug, mounted on the bottom rear of the tranny, didnt know where that went so i left it unplugged.(is that a important connector?)


i go to drive the car, it kind of grinds from a stop, untill the upper RPMS in every gear. 1st - 5th, in lower rpms, it grinds as if it isnt all the way in gear. The noise is kind of like missing a shift, or when you dont get it all the way in reverse(is this a sign of bearings going bad??) but once i get above 1300 rpms, the grinding stops.



And last off all, it's leaking, AGAIN! Between the bellhousing and the block, its gear oil BTW. Does this mean i have a bad seal around the input shaft? if so, where is it and whats the name for the seal?

Also, in 4th gear, and 4th gear only, when im on the gas, it pushes itself further in 4th gear. when i lift off the gas, the shifter almost pops itself back into neutral. what's making it do that?



Thanks for any help possible,
-Aaron

 

For the seal, the only thing that can leak gear oil there would be the input shaft seal. Nissan has a completely inane way of naming parts, this in particular would be the input shaft seal. Part number J1156-158184. Here's one for like $6 online - http://replacement.autopartswarehous...0Seal&dp=false

And for the shifter moving around, does it do it in 3rd as well? The only thing I can really think of would be the motor mounts, allowing excessive play front to back and moving the shift linkage. That would cause shifter movement in all gears though, at least I would assume.

 

Ok, thanks. Now as far as the install, i have a question on removing the "gearbox?" to make things easier. is it possible i can leave the bellhousing attached to the block, and removing the "gearbox" to change it with a new/rebuilt or would it be too much work.

And do you know anything about the grinding noise?

 

I'm not sure that you can remove the front section of the bellhousing on the RS5 (a la the T56), but one of the manual guys would know better, I'm on my 4th trans and I keep choosing automatic because I'm a lazy SOB (I am the first 4th gen auto in the 17's with shift_fast though, go me!)

As far as the grinding, could be synchros but I don't know why the sound would go away at higher RPMs.

 

yeah you have to remove the whole transmission from the car. It is not that hard cause I've done it 2 times by myself and 1 time with a friend. If you are doing it with a friend or by yourself have the fsm stand by cause you will need it for changing the bearing and the seals and to know which bolt goes where and such.

also you said you are grinding, it might be because of the front motor mount ( if you have an SE).

The four wire plug from the bottom of the trans is the reverse neutral wires which needs to be some how connected to the 2 wires for your reverse lights to come on when you are in reverse and one of the wires to be ran to pin 22 on the ECU and one to be grounded. There is a thread on this (search)

the 01 release bearing is different from the 95-99 release bearing

one more thing, you were in a rush to put everything together so you have all these things happeneing.
It took my friend and I a week to finish my car.
just my .02

 

It sounds like you need a tranny rebuild.

The shifting problems may be related to bad bearings or other random stuff inside the tranny, but the leaking input shaft seal can't be changed any other way.

 

Um.

You need the pilot bearing, dude.

 

ok, let me ask you this. When i did a search on the pilot bearing, I kept seeing that it didnt serve a purpose or was only used to help position the clutch alignment tool. Is this ever partially true.

Also, when i tried to install in in the "thing"(sorry for my lack or terms) that the flywheel bolts to, it was a hair to big and wouldn't fit inside. So from the result of that, and the statements that i read i decided to not install it.

Also, I read something about the input shaft needing a "machined tip" to be able to use the pilot bearing. When i tried to put my PB over the shaft, it wouldnt fit. the shaft was to big and it was about 3/4" lip before the teeth started on the shaft.. Do i need to get a 4th gen bearing or switch that "thing" that the flywheel bolts too from the donor car?

 

The Pilot Bearing is a vital part of the clutch, I believe it should be replaced. I believe it aligns the input shaft of the transmission with the engine as well.

 

No, you don't need the pilot bearing. Fact, final.

Anyone who doubts me, take a good look at your input shaft, and ask yourself what part of the input shaft touches the pilot bushing. There is no race on that shaft.

Yes there is a pilot bushing in the crankshaft. I dunno why. But replacing it is a waste of time.

Dave

 

I have to second that. You DO-NOT need the pilot bearing. It does nothing. The input shaft on the trans doesnt even reach the pilot bearing.

The only reason why you want the pilot bearing is, is because the clutch alignment tool fits into it and helps align the clutch. I know MANY people without the bearing, and its fine

-matt

 

Alright then. I stand corrected.

 

has anyone solved the grinding problem... i am having the same probelm

 

i think it JUST might be the bearings

 

I think regardless it sounds like you should pull that tranny out asap before you ruin that new 5th gen clutch set-up you got..........