98 maxima is sputtering, partciualry in idle.

a symptom of something?

 

Having just went through a similar symptom with my '97 SE my issue(s) turned out to be MAF and IATS. Run the diagnostics on your ECU and see if any codes are detected. I ran mine multipule times and never once did it register a code. The stealership couldn't even get it sorted. I had to use a Snap-On scanner to get it sorted. Report back in after you had a chance to scanner your ECU. FYI it is possible that a MAF that is intermittently failing might not throw a failure code. Your symptoms are indicative of several elements common to this gen. Max. Do a search on sputtering, stumbling of idle etc and you'll see what I mean.

 

clean the maf and check your plugs for gas and or oil. also, whens the last time you changed your fuel filter?? o2 sensors and/ or oil pressure sending unit. start there.

 

MAF ?? OK, Mass Air Flow sensor

Yeah, thought of that. 220,000 Km, maybe time for a change. Can't find how-to here?

I just changed my oil and put 4.4 l (4.2 US quart) No, that's not too much.

Fuel filter changed 3 years ago.

I have no diagnostic tool or scanner to plug in fir that's what you mean.

 

If, if it is the MAF the how-to is straight forward. It's a hose clamp and 4, 10mm bolts. The MAF is located between the stock air filter box and the intake plenum. It's a clyindrical looking device with a square flange on one end and a round outlet on the other. It will have a simple three wire connector on it. Like max ride 41 sez try cleaning the MAF first. CRC makes a MAF sensor cleaner that is available at about any parts store. Careful when you do this the element is very fragile.

You don't need a fancy scanner yet. Your ECU is located near the floor board in the middle of the HVAC, stero head unit tower. There will be a black kick panel on either side immedately right of the accelerator pedal and the same kick panel on the passenger side. The on-board diagnostic switch is on the driver's side by the accelerator pedal. You will need a medium flat bladed screw driver to turn it.

I don't know what your driving habits are (e.g. miles per year) but at 3 years since your last fuel filter change you probably already have all the goodie out of it. Typically they get changed every 15,000 miles. But since it's sputtering at idle I wouldn't necessarily think fuel filter if it runs out going down the road like at highway speeds. If the fuel filter was that clogged up the engine would get starved of fuel under that type of demand situation. Be that as it may I'd change it anyway it's only $10 and 30 minutes of labor and you've done it before. Hang in there we'll get you thorough it.

 

my mom used to have a 99 I30.. it did the same exact thing....MAF sensor was the problem.

 

OK, good found it and thanks to Mr. Haynes. Holy cow, I'm not a midget, but got in there.

I get a 05 05 code which means nothing out of ordinary

I was expecting a 01 02 MAF out of order.

I'll try the cleaner, but the MAF its just pop out and pop it in?

****, my Olds Ciera the garage charged me $300 first just todiagnose what I already knew.

Argh. $$$$$

 

how would the ol psi sending unit effect idle

 

O2 sensor is original

 

it would'nt affect idle but rather start up. so any little thing in my book is worth checking out. and, if the fuel filter is 3 years old i would replace that depending opn miles. and the final question is, you can go to autozone and they'll do a free scan on your car and give you any codes you may have.

 

Yeah just unbolt it, unplug it and follow the destruction on the can. And +1 on access to the ECU. Speaking from experience a suspect MAF sometimes won't throw a code. So just because you get the 0505 code doesn't mean everything is copasetic. If you give up some dealerships won't charge you anything if they can't find anything that is broken. Then again others will charge just to talk to you. And someone on this baord has a link to remanufactured MAFs for cheap. I wish I found that thread before I gave $220 for mine.

 

did a search here for remanufactured MAFs could not locate a link to a cheap source.

I am in Toronto and the jobber I go to does not have remanufactured and a new for $328. Another parts place $320 for remanufactured.

Am planning a long ride to wedding in Ottawa this weekend so probably can't wait for shipping.

Any othre places in Torornto.

Otherwise "National Auto Parts" has been quite good for other parts.

 

Oh man, search for Dave B, his number is in the stickies and spend 100$

 

Called Dave and he wants $385 that is USD.

Extortionist!

 

M in KC Quote:

"CRC makes a MAF sensor cleaner that is available at about any parts store"

Can brake parts cleaner or electrical pasrt cleaner suffice?

My search on Max.org , there are many who are dead set against cleaning the MAF.


Any remanufactured parts stores online for MAF. The cheapest I've got is $328 and that's for new.

 

www.crc-canada.ca

CRC called "Sensorclean" for MAF cleaning

Available UAP Napa stores

quote part # CRL75110

 

NO!!! Only use CRC MAF CLEANER!! I've used it on mine. Just be careful when spraying/handling your MAF.

 

Same thing,same company, same purpose
but different name.

 

i had this problem, it was also sputtering, severely down on power, and the idle would sometimes dip to ~500. checked coils, cleaned maf, and it was still there. went to clean the TB and noticed the flex tube had a rip in it that was over 1" long. replaced it and everything is good.

 

MAF at wired end is tough to get off.

was is a TB ??? Throttle body? That's next, because MAF was clean as a whistle.

Didn't need any CRC.

 

yeh that's the throttle body. while you're doing that, you may as well clean the idle air control valve. mine was also gunked up.

 

Haines manual strongly recommends against using any combustion chamber cleaners for the TB.

 

wheres the iacv located? mine sputters alittle bit and i cleaned my tb but i'm still wondering if i should go ahead and try to clean my egr valve. Is it hard to clean the iacv and egr?

 

Here is the link to cleaning iacv.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=528285

 

ok i need major help, i cleaned my iacv and put everything back together and it is idleing like ****, i used some seafoam deep creep tb cleaner that is safe for teflon and i sprayed alittle bit into my intake throught the hole where the iacv covers and wiped it down and it is idling really really bad is this normal after a cleaning process????

 

ok i need major help, i cleaned my iacv and put everything back together and it is idleing like ****, i used some seafoam deep creep tb cleaner that is safe for teflon and i sprayed alittle bit into my intake throught the hole where the iacv covers and wiped it down and it is idling really really bad is this normal after a cleaning process????

 

..........bump........

 

I also have the sputtering problem sparitically, but not on idle, its when I am accelerating after a stop...

it was doing this weeks ago prior to having work down, but only when it was VEY HOT out...
I replaced MAF, VSS & sppedometer... about to change out spark plugs and fuel filter, ff is original, plugs are 4+ yrs old... I'll see if these help any...

thanks for any comments...

 

check your spark plug for gapping and condition.

 

well figured out what was making it sputter, seems as if i put the gasket on a$$ backwards lol

 

Changed the copper plugs in early July and all was fine till last week.

 

would this apply for hesitation on acceleration sporatically?

NOte- I've seen twice, when I step on the gas, the RPMs spike around 5000 when the car isn't moving in the same fashion, tap the gas pedal and it's normal again? plugs? or something else??

Please Help - thanks.

 

I had Max idling and had someone unplug MAF electrical connector.

Immediately a Service engine soon is there and still there, and now OBD displays 0102 indicating a faulty MAF.

Could this just be due to the unplugging the MAF, although I suspected the problems were symptoms of.

I've done everything but clean the ICAV.

does anyone recommend used MAF I can get for $50. The best new price I can get is $328.

 

haines manual says cleaning the TB with combustion cleaner is bad? i was about to do that this weekend.

should i still? the car has 140k on it and i doubt its ever been cleaned. plus the pickup in low gears is poor. something isnt right....could it be timing? knock sensor? fuel filter? plugs?

 

I cleaned TB, and all OK.

 

good to hear.

 

Is running diagnostics on ECU different than simply pulling the codes when the CEL comes on??

I'm having similar sputtering / misfiring / only at idle but significant power loss on acceleration / mostly just when engine is hot / accompanied by strong burning plastic smell. BTW, have recently changed plugs all old ones were in excellent condition (50k), and changed fuel filter.

 

If you have M/T, I'd say it is first sign of the clutch going bad.

 

After doing some extensive research on maxima.org, I hope I have pinned down the problem.

Symptoms of TPS failure is shuttering at idle or coasting to idle and rarely during acceleration or driving.

This seems to be in line. I will do a check or may just replace the TPS, ranges $60-$80. Here is the writeup. http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/tps.html

If TPS replcaement doesn't do anything, I'll pay for a professional scan diagnosis and change/fix it myself. I've seen too many stories here about everyone changing their MAF, Ignition coils, everything but the bumper and still the same problems.

 

any luck with solution?