UDP Subs Dead Alternator?? HELP
UDP Subs Dead Alternator?? HELP
Just found out my alternator is bad and getting a new one. Will replacing the Stock Crank pulley prevent me from killing another alternator? I have 2x10" Type R's 1000watts total RMS subs and headlight dimming with the UDP.
97 max 100k miles with UDP & Red Top
97 max 100k miles with UDP & Red Top
For some reason the alternator doesn't get to put out as much amperage with the udp, I remember looking at a chart comparing the stock pulley to udp with alt amperage and it was way less than stock, so if you have a system it's one or the other. I would say if you track your car alot or autocross, keep the udp and ditch the system, or try to do the big 3 upgrade to help the dimming.
The diameter of the pulley causes the attached belt components to spin slower from what I've read so you get a lower alt output. Like at idle for example if it normally puts out 25 amps it's only putting out 20 amps with the udp, that's just an example, but I think at around 4000-5000 rpm it puts out around 125-135, with the udp it puts out around 115. And remember a stock alt is designed for stock stuff, so when you add a system you are already going above the engineer recs (even though most alts can still handle it) and then when you lower the output with an udp your just at a loss. I would do the big 3 and see what happens.
Originally Posted by nad819
Just found out my alternator is bad and getting a new one. Will replacing the Stock Crank pulley prevent me from killing another alternator? I have 2x10" Type R's 1000 watts total RMS subs and headlight dimming with the UDP.
97 max 100k miles with UDP & Red Top
97 max 100k miles with UDP & Red Top
Just how much juice are those two tens pulling? I knowyou stated what they could handle at RMS but what are you pushing to them?
I ran a UDP with two Kicker Comp VR twelves for years with no issues. I had a 500 watt amp pushing them so it wasnt a major system but the car performed fine power wise with the UDP.
If your pulling some major juice then it might be wise to ditch the UDP.
Originally Posted by maxgtr2000
The diameter of the pulley causes the attached belt components to spin slower from what I've read so you get a lower alt output. Like at idle for example if it normally puts out 25 amps it's only putting out 20 amps with the udp, that's just an example, but I think at around 4000-5000 rpm it puts out around 125-135, with the udp it puts out around 115. And remember a stock alt is designed for stock stuff, so when you add a system you are already going above the engineer recs (even though most alts can still handle it) and then when you lower the output with an udp your just at a loss. I would do the big 3 and see what happens.
I thought the 4th gens OEM alt put out 115 amps and the 5th gens put out 125?
Originally Posted by Flava_24/7
I thought the 4th gens OEM alt put out 115 amps and the 5th gens put out 125?
Originally Posted by Flava_24/7
Just how much juice are those two tens pulling?
Originally Posted by maxgtr2000
I would do the big 3 and see what happens.
Originally Posted by nad819
They are 1000rms 3000max powered by 2 kenwood amps, I usually keep them turned all the way up.
So you have two 1000w amps pushing them? If so, I'd ditch the UDP.
using a udp is a contradiction to having a system. you don't want to under-drive the alternator if your pulling a larger than normal current. you can get a lightweight stock diameter pulley and doing the big 3 is always a good idea. just figure out how you're gonna run the wires and measure.
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