Coming from the black part inside the red square smoking was emerging from inside. I was casually driving. I was in first gear doing 15-20 MPH switching into second when I heard a grinding noise. The clutch pedal didnt wanna come back up. I had to pull it up. Once I did it didnt get stuck anymore, but the clutch pedal has almost NO kind of resistance. When I step on the clutch it sounds like my belts are making a sqeaky sound. When I shift its notchier then before but the clutch still engages. However when I'm in first gear letting go of the clutch slowly my car starts to vibrate like its about to cut off, but then it grabs and the car will begin to pull normally. Also the squeaky noise goes away while driving only when I step on the clutch it begins to make noise. The hydraulic fluid level is fine. There's visible smoke coming from the outline part on the pic and a burning rubbery like smell is also perceivable. Please help on this.

 

Pull the intake, battery & tray, axles, starter, slave cylinder, 4-bolts for tranny mount, disconnetc vss and r/n switch, and maybe a few other minor things.......... Basically you need to pull your tranny, clutch is fuxord.

 

The part that i outlined what is it called?

 

That is your clutch fork. Right beyond that rubber cover, is your clutch. Smoke from that hole means your clutch is smoking.

-matt

 

what exactly does burning clutch smell like. I cant tell if its my brakes or my clutch but i always get a "rubbery" burning smell when i get out of the car.

 

burnt clutch. 2 issues are at hand.

1) possible leaking rear main seal causing the clutch to slip..new seal 40 bucks

2) toasted clutch price is up to you as per what you buy.

 

burnt clutch smells like fishy kinda...or like bad *****...being honest.

 

never had bad ***** man but ill figure it out haha

 

My clutch isn't slipping. The clutch still engages fine, but I'm sure it wont be for long so I'm keeping it parked up. I'm guessing maybe it's the master or slave cylinder. Cause my pedal has no resistance and I believe there's not enough pressure allowing the clutch to disengage fully so I believe the clutch is burning as I shift. I drove it home and opened the hood and there was no smoke. But when I stayed still in park with the foot on the clutch it made a squealing noise. After awhile smoke started coming out only when I had the clutch down for a long time.

 

I'm beginning to think that the throw out bearing slipped of the clutch fork, some people can get it back on without taking the tranny apart, do anyone have any ideas?

 

The rear main seal on a VQ rarely ever leaks, it's the upper oil pan seal that is the culprit in most cases. To do it proper as per the fsm you need front and rear oil-pan seals & o-rings. Engine hoist is optional, you can do the rms and then re-intstall tranny and do oil-pan seals. FTR, I could list off a half dozen .org members who have had it leak worse than before trying to avoid doing it the way listed in the fsm, and also it has to leak REALLY REALLY bad to get on the clutch, usually just re-tourqing the two rear upper-pan bolts even if it is to the point of a slight drip is sufficient imho.

 

Mileage on clutch? If it's more than 60k why bother? Also, smoke=not cool, something is going on, is it worth having your pressure-plate grenade at 6k rpm's and kill you? It's not THAT hard to pull the tranny, the last time I did it I timed myself........ 38 minutes Oh and get the flywheel turned regardless and get an exedy (5th gen) from speed solutions for around $120 shipped ftmfw

 

something is wrong with your clutch unless you have some crazy situation going on where oil is getting on the surface of the clutch and burning off, etc. which also would mean that you have a clutch problem lol. you have to get in there by taking out the transmission.