Need Help on Front End Vibration
#1
I have a front end vibration that really comes on between 60-65 mph. Struts are 6 months old, had an alignment at that same time, all tires were balanced using a Hunter 9700 road force balancer 2 months ago, and everything else seems tight (did the "grab the wheel" routine and there isn't any slop). I'm running stock SE wheels that aren't banged up, and Michelin touring tires that are supposed to ride smooth as glass. Any suggestions?
#2
Originally posted by goldmax
I have a front end vibration that really comes on between 60-65 mph. Struts are 6 months old, had an alignment at that same time, all tires were balanced using a Hunter 9700 road force balancer 2 months ago, and everything else seems tight (did the "grab the wheel" routine and there isn't any slop). I'm running stock SE wheels that aren't banged up, and Michelin touring tires that are supposed to ride smooth as glass. Any suggestions?
I have a front end vibration that really comes on between 60-65 mph. Struts are 6 months old, had an alignment at that same time, all tires were balanced using a Hunter 9700 road force balancer 2 months ago, and everything else seems tight (did the "grab the wheel" routine and there isn't any slop). I'm running stock SE wheels that aren't banged up, and Michelin touring tires that are supposed to ride smooth as glass. Any suggestions?
Have you tried rotating the tires, exchanging fronts and rears? This is a useful fault isolation technique.
Has the car ever been in a crash?
Is the vibration felt in the steering wheel? Pedals? Whole car? If felt in the steering wheel, is it an up and down shake or a side to side shake?
If you drive at the speed where the vibration is most prominent and switch off the engine, does the vibration change?
Defects in the right hand driveshaft support bearing or its mounting bracket can cause vibrations.
Defects in inner Constant Velocity joints may cause vibrations. See http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm119744.htm
#3
The shake is side-to-side and seems to mostly affect the steering wheel and shift lever. I'm fairly sure that it isn't CV joint related..it's not that kind of vibration. The car has never been wrecked and I haven't trashed any rims. I have replaced the sway bar end link bushings and mounting bushings recently with a new set from Energy Suspension. I didn't like the way that the new sway bar mounting bushings fit, so I went back to the stockers which still seemed to be in good shape. That required loosening and re-tightening the new end link bushings...could that have ruined the new bushings? They aren't split, just snug...I know how easy it is to get carried away with overtightening those type bushings. I'll get back under there and see if I can find anything that has deteriorated. Thanks!
#4
Daniel....
The shake is side-to-side and seems to mostly affect the steering wheel and shift lever. I'm fairly sure that it isn't CV joint related..it's not that kind of vibration. The car has never been wrecked and I haven't trashed any rims. I have replaced the sway bar end link bushings and mounting bushings recently with a new set from Energy Suspension. I didn't like the way that the new sway bar mounting bushings fit, so I went back to the stockers which still seemed to be in good shape. That required loosening and re-tightening the new end link bushings...could that have ruined the new bushings? They aren't split, just snug...I know how easy it is to get carried away with overtightening those type bushings. I'll get back under there and see if I can find anything that has deteriorated. Thanks!
The shake is side-to-side and seems to mostly affect the steering wheel and shift lever. I'm fairly sure that it isn't CV joint related..it's not that kind of vibration. The car has never been wrecked and I haven't trashed any rims. I have replaced the sway bar end link bushings and mounting bushings recently with a new set from Energy Suspension. I didn't like the way that the new sway bar mounting bushings fit, so I went back to the stockers which still seemed to be in good shape. That required loosening and re-tightening the new end link bushings...could that have ruined the new bushings? They aren't split, just snug...I know how easy it is to get carried away with overtightening those type bushings. I'll get back under there and see if I can find anything that has deteriorated. Thanks!
Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
You have certainly done all the right things, but the vibration persists. Now you should look for the unusual causes. Raise the car and support it on sturdy jackstands. Slide under and make a visual inspection of all the rubber suspension bushings. Look for rubber parts which are cracked and deteriorated. Verify that all the large bolts which fasten the suspension to the vehicle unibody are tight.
Have you tried rotating the tires, exchanging fronts and rears? This is a useful fault isolation technique.
Has the car ever been in a crash?
Is the vibration felt in the steering wheel? Pedals? Whole car? If felt in the steering wheel, is it an up and down shake or a side to side shake?
If you drive at the speed where the vibration is most prominent and switch off the engine, does the vibration change?
Defects in the right hand driveshaft support bearing or its mounting bracket can cause vibrations.
Defects in inner Constant Velocity joints may cause vibrations. See http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm119744.htm
You have certainly done all the right things, but the vibration persists. Now you should look for the unusual causes. Raise the car and support it on sturdy jackstands. Slide under and make a visual inspection of all the rubber suspension bushings. Look for rubber parts which are cracked and deteriorated. Verify that all the large bolts which fasten the suspension to the vehicle unibody are tight.
Have you tried rotating the tires, exchanging fronts and rears? This is a useful fault isolation technique.
Has the car ever been in a crash?
Is the vibration felt in the steering wheel? Pedals? Whole car? If felt in the steering wheel, is it an up and down shake or a side to side shake?
If you drive at the speed where the vibration is most prominent and switch off the engine, does the vibration change?
Defects in the right hand driveshaft support bearing or its mounting bracket can cause vibrations.
Defects in inner Constant Velocity joints may cause vibrations. See http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm119744.htm
#5
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Rotate
Rotate front to back. If it goes away, most likely it's a problem in a tire. Now switch one tire at a time and test ride to see which side it is. Personally I'm finished buying Michelins. I had 2 sets on my old Prelude both of which wound up with a defective tire by the time I had 30K on them. One was a broken side wall belt causing a bulge. That happened only after a few thousand miles, the other was a shake that suddenly came out of nowhere. The tire shop told me that a radial belt had broke in the tire causing my tread to shift. He showed me as he spun the tire, you could see the tread shift slightly from side to side as the tire spun. Anyhow, that was the last time I will ever buy Michelins.
#6
Re: Rotate
Thanks...will try the rotation route first, then go to a shop if the problem persists. I have already looked for bulges, but don't see any. Good feedback on the Michelins....I have always heard they were the best when it comes to quality and balance...this set has never balanced up as well as my old Goodyear RSAs. They also make an unusually loud noise when braking hard from 40+mph to 0 mph. Really wierd for a tire that is supposed to be incredibly smooth and quiet. Hey...great looking rims on your Max! If I ever change I will definely go with that look! Thanks!
Originally posted by njmaxseltd
Rotate front to back. If it goes away, most likely it's a problem in a tire. Now switch one tire at a time and test ride to see which side it is. Personally I'm finished buying Michelins. I had 2 sets on my old Prelude both of which wound up with a defective tire by the time I had 30K on them. One was a broken side wall belt causing a bulge. That happened only after a few thousand miles, the other was a shake that suddenly came out of nowhere. The tire shop told me that a radial belt had broke in the tire causing my tread to shift. He showed me as he spun the tire, you could see the tread shift slightly from side to side as the tire spun. Anyhow, that was the last time I will ever buy Michelins.
Rotate front to back. If it goes away, most likely it's a problem in a tire. Now switch one tire at a time and test ride to see which side it is. Personally I'm finished buying Michelins. I had 2 sets on my old Prelude both of which wound up with a defective tire by the time I had 30K on them. One was a broken side wall belt causing a bulge. That happened only after a few thousand miles, the other was a shake that suddenly came out of nowhere. The tire shop told me that a radial belt had broke in the tire causing my tread to shift. He showed me as he spun the tire, you could see the tread shift slightly from side to side as the tire spun. Anyhow, that was the last time I will ever buy Michelins.
#7
My 97 max w/60k does the same thing. My Max does it at 70-75. I changed tires, rotated, aligned, and looked under for boot/loose parts. Nothing. Please let us know what you find out. I have held out a trip to the dealership. $$$. Oh well let us know if you find anything.
#8
Hey make sure your tires are H rated tires.
I had the same prb you had.
And what I found out that the tires on my car that I bought from the tire store were T rated. I made the change to a
H rated tire and that sloved my prb.
The maxima calls for a H rated tire nothing lower.
I had the same prb you had.
And what I found out that the tires on my car that I bought from the tire store were T rated. I made the change to a
H rated tire and that sloved my prb.
The maxima calls for a H rated tire nothing lower.
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dvcamp
6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
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09-18-2015 10:17 AM