I have a 1998 Automatic Maxima GXE with 77000kms(48000miles). Recently the engine service light came on and I started to experience trouble when starting the car. It sounds normal but it won't catch. After a few tries it catches. (I also give a little gas)

I was told to replace the fuel filter. Did that, no change. I also put fuel injection cleaner in the gas. No Change.

I was wondering if anyone knows the problem and the cure.

Also, does the engine light mean anything or is a way to get you into paying for expensive repairs??

Thx in advance.

 

The Check Engine Light is evidence that something is wrong. That
"something" may be any number of things, some major and some minor. It
might be nothing more than a loose fuel filler cap. The Engine Control
Module (the computer) detected a problem and turned on the Check Engine
Light. At the same time it stored one or more Diagnostic Trouble Codes.
Get someone to do a DTC readout for you. This is not a big deal, does not
require specialized "dealer only" test equipment, and should take less than
an hour. When you know the stored DTCs, you will have a fair idea of what
repairs are needed.

If you like to do your own "wrenching" you can do the DTC readout for
yourself. No special tools are required.

You will find instructions to do a DTC readout and reset
the Check Engine light at:
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html

The DTC "translations" are found at:
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecudecoder.html

 

I got the ignition codes.
The first was 0704--EVAP control system pressure sensor. Anyone have an idea what this means.
The second was 0215--undefined.

Any ideas of what to do??

Thx in advance
(thanks Daniel B. Martin for getting me this far)

 

These codes are properly called Diagnostic Trouble Codes.

Read the Sticky ECU Diagnostic Trouble Codes. It provides information about DTC 0704.

 

Diagnostic Trouble Code 0215 points to a problem with the EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve. EVAP = EVAPorative emissions control system. This is the system which seeks to minimize air pollution which results from evaporation (as opposed to incomplete combustion) of gasoline.

The EVAP CVCV is located on the EVAP canister (underneath the vehicle near the left rear tire) and is used to seal the canister vent. It has one hose connection and one two-wire electrical connector. The solenoid in the EVAP CVCV responds to signals from the ECM. When the ECM sends an ON signal, the coil in the solenoid valve is energized. A plunger then moves to seal the canister vent. The ability to seal the vent is a necessary part of the diagnosis algorithms for other evaporative loss system components. This solenoid valve is used only for diagnosis, and usually remains open. When the vent is closed, under normal purge conditions, the evaporative loss system is depressurized allowing "EVAP Control System (Small Leak)" diagnosis. Since this part is used only for brief emissions tests the vehicle will usually start and run well despite a Service Engine Soon warning light on the dashboard.

The malfunction is detected when the EVAP CVCV remains closed when it should be open.
Possible causes include ...
- EVAP CVCV is defective
- EVAP control system pressure sensor and its circuit is faulty
- Blocked rubber tube to EVAP CVCV
- Water separator
- EVAP canister is saturated with water


The EVAP CVCV may be bench tested. Remove it from the vehicle (one hose, one connector, two bolts). Verify that air may pass freely through the valve. Then use a pair of fused test leads to apply 12 volts to the terminals to energize the solenoid. Verify that air does not pass freely through the valve. If the CVCV fails these tests, try cleaning it with WD-40 and compressed air. If this fails to free it up, replace the valve. When you install a CVCV (the original or a replacement) always use a new O-ring.

The EVAP canister may be removed from the vehicle and upended to drain accumulated water. If water drains out, weigh the canister. If the canister (with the EVAP CVCV attached) weighs more than 4.0 pounds, replace it.

 

The codes I am receiving from the computer do not explain why my car is not catching when I turn it over.

Does anyone ever have the problems I have mentioned above??
And if yes, do they have a cure?

 

Terminology can be a big problem when describing trouble symptoms. What do you mean by "turn it over"? What do you mean by "catching"?

The most common terms are cranking (Rrr-Rrr-Rrr) and firing (Vroom!).

Perhaps we can help you better if you rephrase your symptom report.

 

When I said turning over the engine was going (Rrr-Rrr-Rrr) but nothing would happen. I showed a friend and he said that my car may be running rich because there was a potent smell of gas after it startd. He thought it may be the spark plugs gap is to wide or a small hole in the gas line.

I checked the computer codes again and the were the same.

So I reset the computer again and now it starts fine and the service engine light has not turned back on again.

I put fuel injection cleaner into this tank of gas that is almost empty.

I am assuming that everything is fine for now.(fingers crossed, road trip this weekend)


Thx Daniel B. Martin for your time and expertise.(I have to get a manual)

 

Glad to know your car is now running well.

I do not agree with your friend's diagnosis.

The Chilton and Haynes repair manuals are suitable for most home mechanics. Haynes is the better of the two, but buying either book will be money well spent.