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Auto trans hesitation

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Old 10-24-2000 | 04:09 PM
  #1  
98Silvermax
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I recently traded my 98 SE Super Black 5sp for a 98 SE Sterling Mist Auto. I like everything about the car, except there is some hesitation when shifting into Drive. It takes about a second or so for it to engage. If I hit the gas too soon it will make a "clanking" noise. I have been driving 5spds for most of my life. Is this slight hesitation normal wih the automatic? The car only has 30K miles. My daughter has a Nissan Sentra SE and it seems to shift instantly when you go from reverse into drive. Other than the slight hesitation the car seems to shift very smooth and quick, and downshifts nicely too. I'm actually very impressed with how quick it is compared with the 5spd. My other car is a 99 Saab 93 Turbo and I think the Max is just as fast. The Max also has a lowered suspension, 17" Borbet Type T rims w/ Bridgestone Potenza 245/ZR17 RE-71's, FSTB, tinted windows, Nissan nose mask, & chrome Pilot Motorsport racing pedals. More mods to come. Any input on the tranny would be appreciated.
Old 10-24-2000 | 08:28 PM
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That's what you get when you drive an automatic. My question is why did you trade your 5spd. for an automatic?! I have an automatic, and I wish that I have a 5spd.!
Old 10-24-2000 | 09:38 PM
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Check your fluid level first (of course). 30k is time for a little matenance. If everything looks good, take it to your dealer. There is a TSB out for the 98 that has to do with the ECU. it addresses "shift shock". If your lucky and your dealer knows what they are doing you might get a countermeasure ECU (computer) that will resolve this concern.
Old 10-24-2000 | 11:22 PM
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Originally posted by PodiumPaul
Check your fluid level first (of course). 30k is time for a little matenance. If everything looks good, take it to your dealer. There is a TSB out for the 98 that has to do with the ECU. it addresses "shift shock". If your lucky and your dealer knows what they are doing you might get a countermeasure ECU (computer) that will resolve this concern.
Does that TSB apply only for the 98s? Just curious since i have a 97 SE.. (auto)

Or if you had a link to it somewhere, that'd be cool too. :> Thanks..
Old 10-25-2000 | 06:06 AM
  #5  
mitster
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I have a 92 SE with 107,000 miles and I have started to have the same problem. I just had my fluid changed but the problem is still there. HELP!
Old 10-25-2000 | 06:12 AM
  #6  
Bernie Lomax's Avatar
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Changing fluid

My 97 has 70k on it, and I doubt it has ever had tranny fluuid changed. Can I do this myself? Is it similar to changing the oil? How much fluid do I put in and where is the fill spout and drain plug? Thank you!
Old 10-25-2000 | 06:17 AM
  #7  
apexi's Avatar
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TSB?

What is it???
Old 10-25-2000 | 07:05 AM
  #8  
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Re: TSB?

Originally posted by apexi
What is it???
TSB = Technical Service Bulletin. A TSB is the way the manufacturer transmits diagnosis and repair advice to dealers regarding common problems. All car makers use TSBs. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration maintains a database of TSBs. You may check for Recalls and TSBs for your car by going to:
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/
Unfortunately, the NHTSA database gives only the titles of TSBs, not the full text.
Old 10-25-2000 | 07:27 AM
  #9  
JimW
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This will sound rather strange--->

Originally posted by 98Silvermax
I recently traded my 98 SE Super Black 5sp for a 98 SE Sterling Mist Auto. I like everything about the car, except there is some hesitation when shifting into Drive. It takes about a second or so for it to engage. If I hit the gas too soon it will make a "clanking" noise. I have been driving 5spds for most of my life. Is this slight hesitation normal wih the automatic? The car only has 30K miles. My daughter has a Nissan Sentra SE and it seems to shift instantly when you go from reverse into drive. Other than the slight hesitation the car seems to shift very smooth and quick, and downshifts nicely too. I'm actually very impressed with how quick it is compared with the 5spd. My other car is a 99 Saab 93 Turbo and I think the Max is just as fast. The Max also has a lowered suspension, 17" Borbet Type T rims w/ Bridgestone Potenza 245/ZR17 RE-71's, FSTB, tinted windows, Nissan nose mask, & chrome Pilot Motorsport racing pedals. More mods to come. Any input on the tranny would be appreciated.
But the 4th Gen auto tranny is a weak point, but at the same time it's a rather strong unit as well.
Since there are really no adjustments that can be made to the unit, the slight hesitation that you describe does not sound promising.
I had a similar problem with my tranny (right after I blew it at the track) and it was a "pump" failure. Granted, my problem also allowed the engine to flare up on acceleration (like slipping the clutch when you start a manual) but it started with the problem you describe.
Other than checking/changing the fluid, there's not much else you can do.
Old 10-25-2000 | 07:30 AM
  #10  
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Re: Changing fluid

> My 97 has 70k on it, and I doubt it has ever had
> tranny fluid changed.

> Can I do this myself?

Yes.


> Is it similar to changing the oil?

Yes.


> How much fluid do I put in and where is the fill spout and drain plug?

The fill spout is the dipstick hole. The drain plug is in the pan at the bottom of the transaxle. The factory service manual says the capacity is 10 US quarts, including the torque converter. That means an ordinary drain-and-refill will take less fluid, but the book doesn't say how much. You could trust the dipstick. Add one quart at a time, and check the dipstick. When you reach the "low" line, drive the car for a few miles, recheck the level and add just enough to reach the "high" line. Do not overfill.


General discussion:
There are two ways to replace ATF. The ordinary drain-and-refill does not get all of the used ATF out. Professional shops use a Magic Sucker Pump which does remove all of the used fluid. They charge about US$70.

My own Maxima has a 5-speed, so I haven't had the need to do this service. However, I do the maintenance on a Honda Accord owned by a family member. On that car I drain the ATF with every oil change. The vehicle is already up on jackstands, my hands are already dirty, so this extra step is no big deal. Replacing some of the ATF with every engine oil change means the transaxle is always running with reasonably clean "juice". The cost of doing these ATF changes on the Honda is 3 quarts times two changes per year equals about US$8 per year. Cheap insurance, in my opinion.

The Chilton and Haynes manuals show a transmission fluid filter, but the '99 Maxima factory service manual does not. The aftermarket books covers 3Gen and 4Gen models, and they sometimes gloss over the differences. If your Maxima has a transmission fluid filter, you might want to change it at 60K intervals.
Old 10-25-2000 | 07:35 AM
  #11  
apexi's Avatar
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Thanks...

Daniel, thank for all of the info!
Old 10-25-2000 | 07:44 AM
  #12  
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Re: Re: Changing fluid

Just curious - when you change the ATF on the Honda's, don't you have to drop the pan (a major PITA) and replace the gasket (another expense). Or is Honda smart enough to put in a drain plug in their automatics? I never could understand why most manufacturers don't put one in. I hate dropping a pan, and having 2 gallons of ATF spill over the garage floor!

Old 10-25-2000 | 07:57 AM
  #13  
Daniel B. Martin's Avatar
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Re: Re: Re: Changing fluid

Originally posted by Rit
Just curious - when you change the ATF on the Honda's, don't you have to drop the pan (a major PITA) and replace the gasket (another expense). Or is Honda smart enough to put in a drain plug in their automatics? I never could understand why most manufacturers don't put one in. I hate dropping a pan, and having 2 gallons of ATF spill over the garage floor!
The Honda referenced in the previous posting is a '95 Accord. That automatic transaxle has no pan and no filter. The drain plug is easy to see and reach. The inside end of the plug has a permanent magnet, and it always has a small "beard" of ferrous fuzz which I remove.
Old 10-25-2000 | 08:05 AM
  #14  
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valvoline

I was asking about this not too long ago about the ATF replacement. It was probably two weeks ago and someone suggested that I should take it to the valvoline shop--and I called--they charge $23 for a drain, flush and refill...it is not a bad price. But that leads me to wonder because I heard that msot shops charge about $65-70 for the service, but valvoline charges 1/3 of that price...

has anyone had this done and got a price from them? I had this done at 30K at the dealer and they charged--$65 for a drain and refill...and I doubt that there was a flush in between...

Old 10-25-2000 | 11:42 AM
  #15  
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yes

the all seems normal; btw the tranny filter is non-serviceable and i think the fluid has a life of 100k.
Old 10-25-2000 | 12:11 PM
  #16  
Wayne
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I wanted to change to ATF but would like to have if Flush does any one know if the Dealer does it.
Old 10-25-2000 | 12:14 PM
  #17  
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Re: yes

yeup,
that is correct --you can't change the tranny filter but can only change the fluid itself--drain, flush and refill...
the dealer usually have a drain and refill--but that is not all the fluid though...so the best way is to drain, flush and to refill.

=)

Originally posted by Kenneth
the all seems normal; btw the tranny filter is non-serviceable and i think the fluid has a life of 100k.
Old 10-25-2000 | 12:33 PM
  #18  
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Re: Re: yes

you paid too little $23 imo. for the flush.
Originally posted by humaras
yeup,
that is correct --you can't change the tranny filter but can only change the fluid itself--drain, flush and refill...
the dealer usually have a drain and refill--but that is not all the fluid though...so the best way is to drain, flush and to refill.

=)

Originally posted by Kenneth
the all seems normal; btw the tranny filter is non-serviceable and i think the fluid has a life of 100k.
Old 10-25-2000 | 01:00 PM
  #19  
Albertt's Avatar
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Originally posted by 98Silvermax
It takes about a second or so for it to engage. If I hit the gas too soon it will make a "clanking" noise.
I'd be a bit worried about this...a second or two...that's a little long...and a clanking if you hit the gas hard. Sounds a bit like a slipping torque converter.
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