SLC I30t

iTrader: (1)

HELP HELP HELP
I dropped the clutch in my car last night and the RPMS went up but the tires didnt move. I pushed the clutch back in, and released and it engaged without noise(grinding) or anything. How do i know if it is slipping? It isn't too hard to shift, occasional grind, but I have thought it had to do with not pushing the pedal all the way down(i've done this for 9 years).

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Check to see if the clutch master cylinder has enough fluid. Also try bleeding the clutch system. It uses the same fluid as the brakes and the bleeding process is the same.

SLC I30t

iTrader: (1)

Ummm where would that be located? I know where the Brake fluid thing is.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Oh boy.

The clutch master cylinder is right next to the brake one.

Considering the level of knowledge presented, I HIGHY RECOMMEND YOU PURCHASE AT LEAST A CHEAP CHILTONS OR HAYNES MANITANCE BOOK.

Don't tell me you can't afford one with those rims you got.

SLC I30t

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so I thought I could figure out which tank had the clutch fluid in it. I wasn't being totally serious when I asked where it was. But I wasn't sure if it would be a topside component. I have looked for a Maxima/I 30 Chiltons, and I have never been able to find one. And this brings up a question... have you ever been denied a part number by a nissan service department? I called to find out the part numer for a brake line, and the axle nut. so I can cross reference it to get some braided ones. I was basically told that it is an industry secret... So frustrated

blizz20oma

iTrader: (1)

On an appropriate road, while travelling in 5th gear in a low RPM range, floor the gas. If the RPM needle shoots up and doesn't match any proportional gain in speed increase, the clutch is slipping. The reason I say a lower RPM range/5th gear is because the car shouldn't really accelerate very much when you floor it (the RPM needle should creep up slowly for the first few seconds that you're flooring it)

SLC I30t

iTrader: (1)

I'm contributing this to poor clutch lever throwing. I've tried more rolling clutches...rolling at 1-5mph, then drop the clutch a couple of times. just tire squeeling. I checked the fluid and it's in a normal range. I was on the free way and accelerated from 2k rpms in 5th gear all the way up to 4k rpms. it took a few seconds but it was all in proportion to itself. I guess I just didn't have the gear lever engaged all the way or something.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

If there is air in the sytem or if the fluid is contaminated, it might not allow full clutch lever throw. Bleed it and see what happens. It probably needs to be flushed anyway.

SLC I30t

iTrader: (1)

after how many miles sheould this be done? I have 50k on it now... I've never lifted that lid on the tank before, so I'm not sure how it could have air in it. I also took a whif (smell) of the fluid, it didn't smell burnt, just plain ol' petro-products

hlh0501

iTrader: (1)

that hydrolic clutch is a pain.. I wouldnt flush it unless you see a reason to... if its all good, dont mess with it...

the hyrdolic clutch system was the hardest part of my 5spd conversion ! (not that bad though actually)

Daniel B. Martin

Your symptom report is not consistent with a clutch hydraulics problem. I see no reason to bleed it.

Bleeding the clutch is similar to (but even easier) bleeding the brakes. However, this should not be needed unless you have a serious clutch fluid leak or as part of a repair which required opening the clutch hydraulic system.

Go to http://www.motorvate.ca/
In the left window click on Transmission.
In the left window click on Clutch Bleeding.

This site is excellent for the home mechanic. You may like to browse it.

Eric99SE-L

Hey SLC I30t, I agree it's probably not a hydraulic problem causing this however, a good reason to bleed the clutch master cylinder is because the brake fluid it contains absorbs water. Water and hydraulics do not go well together. If you do not replace your fluid occasionally, you will probably end up replacing your clutch master cylinder or clutch slave cylinder prematurely. Bleeding the clutch is a piece of cake but you will need two people. As for your original problem, sounds like you've got a worn out clutch (friction) disc. Sounds like a great time to upgrade to an ACT clutch setup. By the way, I'm in Ogden if you've got any problems, I'm not too far from you.

SLC I30t

iTrader: (1)

Ick, I was trying to save up for the JWT NOS set up. I guess I need to get the clutch done before it has to take on some more HP. how much does the ACT run? should I also take advantage of this and do the fly wheel and Pressure plate too?

Eric99SE-L

When you buy the clutch pack, it should come with a pressure plate, friction disc, and a throwout bearing. Make sure you replace them all together. ACT makes some very good quality stuff, just stay away from their race clutches... not good for a street car. These hookup ALOT better than the stock clutch. As for the flywheel, why not just lighten the stock one? A good machine shop could lighten and balance the stock one. Lightened flywheel work great in boost applications like NOS. You could probably safely take 6-7 lbs off the stock one. Some of the aftermarket flywheels are too light in my opinion and could make the car a real pain in the butt to drive.