High pitch squealing/squeaking/whistle noise when car is started.. belts are loose?
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When I start up the car after it has not been running for 4+ hours and the engine is cooled down, I get this high pitch whistling or squeaking noise, it is not sporadic but more of a continual squeal, that would be the best way to describe it. As the car runs it does not fluctuate in frequency or noise level in anyway. This happens until approximately 5 minutes after I reach normal running temperature. Does anyone have an idea of what this could be? It's not very loud, but when driving near something I can hear it well. I was told the belts need to be tightened. What belts exactly need tightening? My car is due for that maintenance since I'm up to 58k miles. Thanks for any help.
Senior Member
Quote:
Originally posted by NYCe MaXiMa
When I start up the car after it has not been running for 4+ hours and the engine is cooled down, I get this high pitch whistling or squeaking noise, it is not sporadic but more of a continual squeal, that would be the best way to describe it. As the car runs it does not fluctuate in frequency or noise level in anyway. This happens until approximately 5 minutes after I reach normal running temperature. Does anyone have an idea of what this could be? It's not very loud, but when driving near something I can hear it well. I was told the belts need to be tightened. What belts exactly need tightening? My car is due for that maintenance since I'm up to 58k miles. Thanks for any help.
Can the sound be heard with the vehicle not moving? If so, you may use the "rubber hose listening aid" to locate the source.Originally posted by NYCe MaXiMa
When I start up the car after it has not been running for 4+ hours and the engine is cooled down, I get this high pitch whistling or squeaking noise, it is not sporadic but more of a continual squeal, that would be the best way to describe it. As the car runs it does not fluctuate in frequency or noise level in anyway. This happens until approximately 5 minutes after I reach normal running temperature. Does anyone have an idea of what this could be? It's not very loud, but when driving near something I can hear it well. I was told the belts need to be tightened. What belts exactly need tightening? My car is due for that maintenance since I'm up to 58k miles. Thanks for any help.
A loose accessory drive belt usually shrieks when you "goose" the accelerator. That seems like a different symptom that the one you report.
Senior Member
It is important to identify the source of the noise. A four-foot length
of small diameter rubber vacuum hose will help you do this. You can buy
the hose in any auto parts store. They typically sell it in bulk for about
US$0.80 per foot. Start the engine and let it idle. Put one end of the
hose in your ear and the other end near any suspected source of noise.
The engine compartment presents a cacophony of sound. The benefit
of the hose is that it isolates the sound from one specific area. Work safely!
Avoid contact with any moving parts!
You may find it interesting to explore the sounds of your engine with this
inexpensive tool. Each moving part has its own characteristic sound. For
example, listen to the muted clicking of the fuel injectors. They should
all sound alike. If you find one with a different sound (or no sound at
all) you have found a problem.
The dealer's service department is equipped with high-tech diagnostic
instruments. These are wonderful devices but they are expensive and the
dealer has to recover his cost by charging you for diagnostic time.
Sometimes the home mechanic can do legitimate diagnostic work with
nothing more than a rubber tube.
of small diameter rubber vacuum hose will help you do this. You can buy
the hose in any auto parts store. They typically sell it in bulk for about
US$0.80 per foot. Start the engine and let it idle. Put one end of the
hose in your ear and the other end near any suspected source of noise.
The engine compartment presents a cacophony of sound. The benefit
of the hose is that it isolates the sound from one specific area. Work safely!
Avoid contact with any moving parts!
You may find it interesting to explore the sounds of your engine with this
inexpensive tool. Each moving part has its own characteristic sound. For
example, listen to the muted clicking of the fuel injectors. They should
all sound alike. If you find one with a different sound (or no sound at
all) you have found a problem.
The dealer's service department is equipped with high-tech diagnostic
instruments. These are wonderful devices but they are expensive and the
dealer has to recover his cost by charging you for diagnostic time.
Sometimes the home mechanic can do legitimate diagnostic work with
nothing more than a rubber tube.
The noise is heard just fine when vehicle is not in motion. Daniel thanks, I'm going to do just that. BTW, just wanted to say thanks for the help on my previous problem with the check engine light going off. I tested what I thought was the Canister Vent Control Valve and saw that it does react but does not close completely therefore as the trouble code said, it is stuck open. I then removed the entire canister from the car and checked all connections and hoses, sat home and played with the CVCV a little bit, put it back on, reset the ECU and what do you know. The light hasn't popped up for nearly 300 miles. Good thing I didn't go and waste 70 bucks on a new valve. thanks.
Senior Member
Quote:
Originally posted by NYCe MaXiMa
The noise is heard just fine when vehicle is not in motion. Daniel thanks, I'm going to do just that. BTW, just wanted to say thanks for the help on my previous problem with the check engine light going off. I tested what I thought was the Canister Vent Control Valve and saw that it does react but does not close completely therefore as the trouble code said, it is stuck open. I then removed the entire canister from the car and checked all connections and hoses, sat home and played with the CVCV a little bit, put it back on, reset the ECU and what do you know. The light hasn't popped up for nearly 300 miles. Good thing I didn't go and waste 70 bucks on a new valve. thanks.
Good to know of your success with the CVCV. Did you upend the EVAP canister to drain it? Was there any water in there?Originally posted by NYCe MaXiMa
The noise is heard just fine when vehicle is not in motion. Daniel thanks, I'm going to do just that. BTW, just wanted to say thanks for the help on my previous problem with the check engine light going off. I tested what I thought was the Canister Vent Control Valve and saw that it does react but does not close completely therefore as the trouble code said, it is stuck open. I then removed the entire canister from the car and checked all connections and hoses, sat home and played with the CVCV a little bit, put it back on, reset the ECU and what do you know. The light hasn't popped up for nearly 300 miles. Good thing I didn't go and waste 70 bucks on a new valve. thanks.
Love those zero dollar repairs!
wow, this thread is OLD
sorry guys, i honestly do not remember what happened with that. My parents now drive that car. However I am convinced it is the alternator or accessory belt. I believe my father changed them and the problem went away. One of them is easy to change, the other is harder to get to. They are like 15-30$ for both.
Inspect the belt for any cracks. If it's loose it will slip.. it may need to be tightened up or greased. I'd still suggest changing it if it hasn't been changed in a while.
sorry guys, i honestly do not remember what happened with that. My parents now drive that car. However I am convinced it is the alternator or accessory belt. I believe my father changed them and the problem went away. One of them is easy to change, the other is harder to get to. They are like 15-30$ for both.
Inspect the belt for any cracks. If it's loose it will slip.. it may need to be tightened up or greased. I'd still suggest changing it if it hasn't been changed in a while.