DBM and other Trouble shooters...
#1
DBM and other Trouble shooters...
(Lets try this again...)
Alright guys and gals any help would be really appreciated.
The facts:
----------
1996 SE 5-speed w/ 99,000 miles
Original Clutch / Thow out bearing / P.Plate etc...
The symptoms:
----------
Argghhhh many little things...
When I start my car their is a odd growl, when I put my foot on the clutch it goes away.
When I am at idle, same growl but it also "ticks" with the rpm of the engine but again goes away when clutch is in.
At idle in neutral along with the growl the shifter vibrates just a bit, when the clutch is in, again no growl or vibrations
When I go to down shift, it howls and growls (sort of high pitch) goes away when my foot goes on the clutch.
The clutch does not slip at all and when I am under power (accelerating) everything is OK, but when I let off the gas, again with the noises.
I think it is the Throw out bearing.. what do you guys think.
Now I am not one to EVER put off doing work, but I am getting ready to move back to NJ from Arizona. How bad would it be for me to wait. What will happen if I contiue to drive it?
The reason why I ask is my buddy from school (SAE certified Mechani) will do all of the work for me in return to a night out on the town ( I could save much $$$$) also he can get all parts fro me at cost.
Thanks for the feedback and help once again guys.
BTW, I called around and they said for the whole clutch was $700.00 does this sound right to you guys?
-Jeremy
Thanks again
Alright guys and gals any help would be really appreciated.
The facts:
----------
1996 SE 5-speed w/ 99,000 miles
Original Clutch / Thow out bearing / P.Plate etc...
The symptoms:
----------
Argghhhh many little things...
When I start my car their is a odd growl, when I put my foot on the clutch it goes away.
When I am at idle, same growl but it also "ticks" with the rpm of the engine but again goes away when clutch is in.
At idle in neutral along with the growl the shifter vibrates just a bit, when the clutch is in, again no growl or vibrations
When I go to down shift, it howls and growls (sort of high pitch) goes away when my foot goes on the clutch.
The clutch does not slip at all and when I am under power (accelerating) everything is OK, but when I let off the gas, again with the noises.
I think it is the Throw out bearing.. what do you guys think.
Now I am not one to EVER put off doing work, but I am getting ready to move back to NJ from Arizona. How bad would it be for me to wait. What will happen if I contiue to drive it?
The reason why I ask is my buddy from school (SAE certified Mechani) will do all of the work for me in return to a night out on the town ( I could save much $$$$) also he can get all parts fro me at cost.
Thanks for the feedback and help once again guys.
BTW, I called around and they said for the whole clutch was $700.00 does this sound right to you guys?
-Jeremy
Thanks again
#2
Re: DBM and other Trouble shooters...
Originally posted by samiam
(Lets try this again...)
Alright guys and gals any help would be really appreciated.
The facts:
----------
1996 SE 5-speed w/ 99,000 miles
Original Clutch / Thow out bearing / P.Plate etc...
The symptoms:
----------
Argghhhh many little things...
When I start my car their is a odd growl, when I put my foot on the clutch it goes away.
When I am at idle, same growl but it also "ticks" with the rpm of the engine but again goes away when clutch is in.
At idle in neutral along with the growl the shifter vibrates just a bit, when the clutch is in, again no growl or vibrations
When I go to down shift, it howls and growls (sort of high pitch) goes away when my foot goes on the clutch.
The clutch does not slip at all and when I am under power (accelerating) everything is OK, but when I let off the gas, again with the noises.
I think it is the Throw out bearing.. what do you guys think.
Now I am not one to EVER put off doing work, but I am getting ready to move back to NJ from Arizona. How bad would it be for me to wait. What will happen if I contiue to drive it?
The reason why I ask is my buddy from school (SAE certified Mechani) will do all of the work for me in return to a night out on the town ( I could save much $$$$) also he can get all parts fro me at cost.
Thanks for the feedback and help once again guys.
BTW, I called around and they said for the whole clutch was $700.00 does this sound right to you guys?
-Jeremy
Thanks again
(Lets try this again...)
Alright guys and gals any help would be really appreciated.
The facts:
----------
1996 SE 5-speed w/ 99,000 miles
Original Clutch / Thow out bearing / P.Plate etc...
The symptoms:
----------
Argghhhh many little things...
When I start my car their is a odd growl, when I put my foot on the clutch it goes away.
When I am at idle, same growl but it also "ticks" with the rpm of the engine but again goes away when clutch is in.
At idle in neutral along with the growl the shifter vibrates just a bit, when the clutch is in, again no growl or vibrations
When I go to down shift, it howls and growls (sort of high pitch) goes away when my foot goes on the clutch.
The clutch does not slip at all and when I am under power (accelerating) everything is OK, but when I let off the gas, again with the noises.
I think it is the Throw out bearing.. what do you guys think.
Now I am not one to EVER put off doing work, but I am getting ready to move back to NJ from Arizona. How bad would it be for me to wait. What will happen if I contiue to drive it?
The reason why I ask is my buddy from school (SAE certified Mechani) will do all of the work for me in return to a night out on the town ( I could save much $$$$) also he can get all parts fro me at cost.
Thanks for the feedback and help once again guys.
BTW, I called around and they said for the whole clutch was $700.00 does this sound right to you guys?
-Jeremy
Thanks again
I believe your transmission has one or more worn bearings. The bearing on the input shaft is the most likely source of these sounds. When you put your foot on the clutch the sound goes away. That is because the internal parts of the transmission are spinning when the transmission is in Neutral but they slow down and stop when the clutch is disengaged.
This is likely to be an expensive repair. It will require removing the transaxle, opening the case, making a careful examination of the internal parts, and replacing those found to be worn. You may as well have a new clutch installed while the tranny is out because there is a labor savings and the car has a lot of mileage.
For more information about 5-speed transmission internal repairs ...
Go to http://www.motorvate.ca/
In the left window click on Transmission
In the left window click on 5 speed rebuild
In the left window click on each of the subheadings (The Saga, Failed Bearing, etc.)
This is an excellent site for the Maxima home mechanic.
You may like to browse all of it.
#4
Re: Re: Re: DBM and other Trouble shooters...
Probably $1000-$1500 just for the rebuild. An extra $300 or so for the labor of removing/installing the tranny. Plus add maybe $200 or so for new clutch parts(pressure plate/disc/to bearing). Might as well since you have about 50k on your stocker.
Originally posted by samiam
DBM, how do you mean expensive? 1k? It all is relative, any input would be really be appreciated
-Jeremy
DBM, how do you mean expensive? 1k? It all is relative, any input would be really be appreciated
-Jeremy
#5
Re: Re: Re: Re: DBM and other Trouble shooters...
Originally posted by Jeff92se
Probably $1000-$1500 just for the rebuild. An extra $300 or so for the labor of removing/installing the tranny. Plus add maybe $200 or so for new clutch parts(pressure plate/disc/to bearing). Might as well since you have about 50k on your stocker.
Probably $1000-$1500 just for the rebuild. An extra $300 or so for the labor of removing/installing the tranny. Plus add maybe $200 or so for new clutch parts(pressure plate/disc/to bearing). Might as well since you have about 50k on your stocker.
Gulp, so much for my S/C Fund.
-Jeremy
#6
Guessing game
Originally posted by samiam
DBM, how do you mean expensive? 1k? It all is relative, any input would be really be appreciated
-Jeremy
DBM, how do you mean expensive? 1k? It all is relative, any input would be really be appreciated
-Jeremy
- who does the work, dealer or independent
- the cost of labor in your town (tends to be higher in urban areas)
- whether you elect to have a new clutch installed
- whether you use Nissan parts or aftermarket repair parts
At this moment we don't know how many parts require replacement, so this is really a guessing game.
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