I was so happy I finally go the knock sensor out, I put the new one back but it took forever to screw. I pulled it with my fingers and the bolt came out! With the thread on it! The bolt looked like brand new! But the thread on the hole got stripped! What the hell do I do now? Any advice appreciated!

How long is the hole? Can I try a longer bolt hoping to find good thread deeper? Otherwise I need to take the whole intake manifold and I can't do that myself. How many hours of labor would a mechanic charge me for that? When they take the manifold out can they fix the ripped thread?

Maan, i never even got to a point where it was tight : ( May be it ripped when I first unscrewed it : (

Any advice appreciated, no transportation now : (

 

the easiest and most logical way now is to remove the manifold and just rethread the hole, this way you can properly torque the sensor on there as well.

 

^^^ the mans right...

u gotta remove the bish and retap the thread... ya i know it sucks

 

Normal shop labor to do a knock sensor is 4-5hrs plus what ever time it takes to repair the stripped hole.

 

ooooo man this ones gonna bite you. kinda sucks man. unless you can remove the manifold and have the tools to rethread yourself, your gonna pay a lot...

 

Why can't I post a picture here?

Please open this link and tell me what the sensor that I surrounded with blue is.

http://aycu02.webshots.com/image/284...1899874_rs.jpg

There are 2 little hoses that run into the sensor. One of them broke right where the red arrow shows. I am thinking of glueing it so I can take the car to the mechanic but I don't want to take any chances. I know, I messed it all up.. : (

Anyway, to those that can help thanks alot!

 

guys, still need to find out what the senson on the link above is : (

 

i dont know what the sensor is, for the stripped KS hole, rim the intake off and thread it yourself, u can buy the tools at any shop

whats wit the white zip ties around the TB > nissan zip ties are black, why u need them there what are they holding ?

 

EGR valve solenoid.

Don't bother with the glue, it won't work. You can drive just fine without it if you need to. Just get another one as soon as you can and install. They are known to go bad anyway, so look at it as preventative maintenance.

BTW, you can also safely drive the car without the KS hooked up. If necessary.

 

Find out what the thread size of the KS hole is, then go to this site; http://www.mcmaster.com/

Pick up a tap and tap the hole yourself.

 

Great help.
Greatly appreciated too.

the white zip tie is tied to my wrench in case i drop it, because I couldn't trust my bloody hands anymore.

I will get the solenoid valve and take the car to a guy that was a mechanic at the time and will charge me $40/hr. I would love to take crack on this myself but can't do it on the parking lot..

 

Guys, this EGRC - solenoid valve is nowhere to be found online. Any ideas where to look for, or dealer the only way?

 

Got a salvage yard anywhere nearby?

The same part is used on many other Nissans. Go there and look under the hood of some. One will have have it.

Dealer sells them new of course, may be the easiest way out.

 

Yeah get one at a junk yard or look around here in the fs section. That is a really expensive part from teh dealer.

 

My SGRC solenoid valve is (or should be) fine, it's just the plactic nose that the hose goes onto is broken. I'm not even sure that's a part of the solenoid or is part of the 'harness'.
I see nothing can happen to the engine driving like that but can I damage the solenoid if I drive like that? If it's expensive as u say I wana be careful.

The junk yard has just one max, a 91. I will check it satirday. Can I really use other nissans?

 

For your KS problem, simplest solution till you can pull the mainfold would be to install the 'resistor' in the harness. Then don't use low octane gas and don't hammer the gas. I went to Radio Shack, but had to buy a pkg of 25 assorted resistors. Maybe go to a TV/Radio repair shop to get only 1. Look up thread for KS resistor replacement.

 

Fixed!

Not proud of they way I fixed it but so far so good. CEL disapeared and my car runs strong again on high RPM. Turned out it was the knock sensor.

I fixed the stripped thread with this permatex stuff + used 10mm longer bolt. Was able to tighten hard as I can.

The broken hose was glued with some krazyglue. After I glued it I just poured the rest of the bottle over it and when it dried it made plastic-like ring around the broken part. Breaking from that same point seems really unlikely, I was only afraid glue might get inside the hose and disrupt flow but so far car runs good.

Thanks again all!

 

Right on. I've heard good things about that Permatex epoxy threadmaker, hopefully it will hold up well for you.

 

You tightened it as hard as you can? For one, 8mm threads (or is it 6? I forget) aren't going to take a whole lot of torque as it is (as you found out earlier), and two, the KS will be extremely sensitive as you have it, it has a torque value for a reason.

 

It's a 12mm. Then, I don't know how your car is, but on mine the EGR solenoid vacuum is right on the way so access is nothing but a b1ttch. Hard as I can is not that much but I i think I got it up to 20 lbs. May be a few more but I don't believe sensors are that precise..
If you youse that permatex thread fixer you better practice first and know exactly what you wana do. This thing goes form gel to stone for like 2 mins and for that time you have to apply it and you have to run the bolt through it and thats not the easiest task with such limited access. Its important to know ahead of time because if you apply it and dont run the bolt right away then you will have to drill through it.

 

The head is 12MM, yes, but the threads are 8MM - the head has the least amount to do with how much torque the bolt can handle.

 

oh, you right, you right. actually permatex is rated like 16 lbs for 8mm. So if it werent for the 10mm longer bolt I would have stripped it again.

Whats wrong with more sensitive? I don't want to run the engine with predetonation.. small or big predetonation.. I dont care..

 

how would U rethread the hole if its stripped? Wont you have to go a size bigger, which in turn wouldnt fit the Knock sensor hole?

 

you cold have someone tig weld the hole shut, then redrill and tap it.

 

I think a Helicoil or a Threadsert would be a eaiser and just as strong a repair.

 

And welcome to a post from 09-17-2007, 08:21 PM

 

Come on, I know you know better than this... OP: 09-17-2007, 08:21 PM

 

Who gives a ****, is that all you have time to do? Call out dates? Its a similar thread about my problem. Get off your high horse Internet Cop.

 

Yep, that's what I do 24 hours a day, 7 days a week; troll here trying to point out problems.

 

Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit.

 

Who's trying to be witty or sarcastic?

Seriously, I'm on here 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.

 

Just one more pwn and you'll get 6000!

 

pwn.

Thanks, I didn't even notice. Haven't kept track of my post count in a while, actually. Ever since I stopped going into the Friday threads

 

congrats! you have reached 6000 posts, you have no life...

 

That news is even older than this thread

 

"congrats! you have reached 6000 posts, you have no life...
" actually made me laugh out loud haha