I installed the rear ionic pieces on my car but after every rain storm the water gets in the small gaps and the tape gives out and the gaps get bigger. I had to take one piece off this morning cause it was on the floor when I got to my car. Im curious if the fitment on them just sucks, or if theres something im not doing right when installing. I have one bolt that holds it from by the wheel fender area, then its all double sided tape holding the rest.

 

You have to use screws on the bottom section, that's why the rear valances have indentations on them, they indicate where they have to be drilled and then screwed in.

Thanks!

 

Yea, There are screws for them. I don't know why Ironic does not drill them for you, but I am used to this sort of thing with Ionic. They don't come prepped for you at all, but still good product.

I still have that roof spoiler. lol

 

They're making products for our cars. Don't hate. Be grateful.

 

lol, I'm not, did not mean it to come off that way, but I just wish it would before buying... (tape required or Drill required)

 

Ionics prices are pretty good. In order for them to take them time to predrill everything before it went out would definately bump up there prices. Also, some may not want theres drilled. Another thing t oconsider is fitment. Each part will not fit everyones car the same.

 

I just installed my one-piece rear. It isn't perfect at all. I have several locations with gaps. But I wanted a one-piece rear and only Ionic makes one so I just accept it.

udienow, If you are only installing the 2-piece rear, you should be able to use all stock screws. In fact, I wouldn't use tape at all. Re-use the OEM screw in the wheel well, as you mentioned. Then, you'll see underneath a round phillips screw and a hex phillips screw. The Ionic rears should have indentation at/near these OEM screw locations but verify that, mine didn't match up perfectly. That should be enough. With the one-piece rear, I had to continue running nuts and bolts around the whole bottom bumper by drilling holes and adding the nuts/bolts/washers. You may need to do one or so bolts near the corner.

 

Josh PM me with pics so I can help you, I have installed these and they really aren't that hard to get installed properly.

Thanks!

 

I appreciate it Jose. I can do that. Thanks. Or, perhaps I can show you on Stillen day? Are you going this weekend? But I really don't think it's me. The side skirts for instance needed some sanding/filing for them to fit up flush. I can see where I would need to sand on the rear skirt but I don't want to do it now that it's already painted. I'll just live with it until I need to paint again. But, I'll send the pics and/or show you this weekend and maybe you can give me some tips that will help. Thanks.

 

Why would be compelled to offer our kits predrilled when no one else in the aftermarket industry sells kits predrilled?

The main reason is because every car is different, and to offer the best customized fitment that is left to the end consumer, you have to keep in mind that these are not brand new cars, that over time there could have been body work or other issues that can modify the fitment from one car to another.

 

Josh, the side skirts need NO filling, maybe just a LITTLE sanding where they touch the front fenders or rear wheel well.

The problem here is that you got the rear valance painted before installing it or even test fitting it. That's the most common mistake that people make when ordering and installing body parts, and this is due to their lack of experience when dealing with body kit parts. An experienced shop would first test fit the part before doing any paint work.

But yea sure, send me the pics, I'm sure that I can provide some help and insight since I've installed a few of these one piece rear valances. The last one that I installed was prepainted and was for an orger, his screen name is kameron816, and everything went smoothly.

Thanks!

 

ionic dynamics goes to stillen day? lol thats like chevy going to ford day... lol

 

I said filing, not filling.

You lost me with the need to test fit before painting. I wouldn't think one should have to. And no, I do not have a lack of experience with body kit parts. I've typically had Stillen kits in the past - which needed no modification.

Jose, are you going to Stillen day? Is Jose #2 going?

I'll show you this weekend if I see you, otherwise I'll send close-ups. Thanks for your help.

 

Come on now, you have to have been in this auto modding phase long enough to know not one piece fits all?
Seriously, not trying to be in Ionics place completly( for obvious reasons) Ive played and did partial build ups of many cars. I xan honestly say I have never really had a part that fit "perfect" other then a K&N filter.

 

Actually my Stillen front lip fit 100%

Greddy SP2 not so well, I had to make my bumper cutout bigger...
Budget Y- rubbing the under part of my car, causing all sorts of vibrations...
CAI- When its cold out, it vibrates on the wheel well when you look down at it from the engine bay

350z rims fit fine, minus the fact that they rub, but I can fix that when I install my new tires this week

 

PM sent bro....My apologies for the confusion.

 

Before you go and criticize the fitment of ionic dynamics...have you guys looked at the price difference when stillen isn't having a sale on their lip kit??? That was the main reason I purchased the ionic brand and I feel it was the right choice despite very minor adjustments. It is very good quality and I got a great price on it. If you guys are so worried about the rears why not mold/fiberglass them to the car and therefore hide any gaps.

 

i needed minor modifications on all my exterior parts. and it still wasnt perfect. its to be expected from buying aftermarket no matter the manufacturer. you guys are being nitpicky as hell. its not gonna kill you to file or sand down a thing here or there.

you want perfect fitment? go OEM.

 

Ohh I wasn't bashing on ID or anything, I was just letting the OP know that if you do any modification to a car, there will be fitment issues...

 

yah but stillen is amazing and their stuff is made out of polyurethane... the good stuff. That is why it is so expensive... Well and Stillen does overcharge a lot...

 

Like I already said, my complete Stillen kit fit 100% fine with no modification(s) needed and no gaps. Why would a body kit not fit perfect? Unless of course it's Sarona kit, in which case it will be way off, lol.

 

I don't think anyone here has criticized ID. We have only stated a fact, that the kit doesn't fit perfectly. It's a fact. Period. I already said I love my one piece rear and I am keeping it.

And what kind of logic is it to make the Stillen comparison you did? What you are saying is, if you spend less than "Stillen money" on a kit, it's o.k. for it not to fit perfect???


I disagree with you completely. Absolutely should no-less-than-perfect-fitment be expected. I can't believe you said that.

And when did we say filing/sanding would kill us? If I re-read the thread, all I see is the fact stated that sanding/filing is needed. Period.

 

It's a given that a fiberglass/plastic body component of a kit isn't going to be a direct fit...Of course the Stillen may fit better but it's also made of a different material. Sorry if my logic didn't make sense to the grammar police, I just feel this thread is turning into negative rep towards a respectable company.

 

idk how this thread got so off... i simply asked about tips for installing them. I never tried to say the fitment sucks, I just asked if thats the case. Apperently I didnt add an extra bolt in the rear part of the kit, where the pieces indeed have an indent on them. My own fault on improper installation.

end...

 

Lock it up!

 

relax dude.
I whole heartedly agree with your statement, but i said that because thats the way most kits come: modification needed. Personally i would like to expect "no-less-than-perfect-fitment" but taking in consideration of price and material, thats the difference. You go cheap, you get cheap.