Engine swap...
09-26-2007, 11:02 AM
#1
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Engine swap...
Iam just curiuos if anyone on here knows or will do an 3.5 swap in a 3.0 in the new york area....Let me know as iam thinking of gettin this done and just tryin to get prices and ideas on it.
thanks
thanks
09-26-2007, 02:52 PM
#3
09-26-2007, 03:12 PM
#4
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thanks
09-26-2007, 06:07 PM
#5
man you keep jumping ship. You just want power? I just think that b/c your the type of person that asks people to do your installs (End User) you will run into problems and will be constantly fixing your car. Unless your willing to go the extra mile with $$ to pay when stuff breaks.
IMO a 3.0 is very reliable. Its easy on the tranny compared to the 3.5 and can deliver as much punch fully tuned as any other car. Its all about the driver.
IMO a 3.0 is very reliable. Its easy on the tranny compared to the 3.5 and can deliver as much punch fully tuned as any other car. Its all about the driver.
09-26-2007, 06:13 PM
#6
man you keep jumping ship. You just want power? I just think that b/c your the type of person that asks people to do your installs (End User) you will run into problems and will be constantly fixing your car. Unless your willing to go the extra mile with $$ to pay when stuff breaks.
IMO a 3.0 is very reliable. Its easy on the tranny compared to the 3.5 and can deliver as much punch fully tuned as any other car. Its all about the driver.
IMO a 3.0 is very reliable. Its easy on the tranny compared to the 3.5 and can deliver as much punch fully tuned as any other car. Its all about the driver.
I agree. I think paying for someone to install it will cause problems. You won't know what was done so you can't work on it or diagnose your own problems when the arrive. If you get someone 3 hours away to do the swap and something breaks you'll need to go 3 hours to have them look and fix it. It's better to do your research and do it yourself or not do it at all IMO. I would stick 3.0 or do DE-K if you want to swap an engine.
09-26-2007, 06:58 PM
#8
it could be but why? vg30 is slower than the VQ and less reliable....
oh and post whoring is bad and you should officially be bannedededededed for it and for being well.....
ed
09-26-2007, 07:08 PM
#10
actually this forums is here for questions but if you read the rules you'll realize that asking other questions inside peoples threads is not allowed. There is a whole thread made for newbie questions. And yeah your twin turbo probably would snap our cars but its a twin turbo against a stock maxima...hmm obviously. Really not a good idea to jump into a forum and start acting like you own the place. Not going to get you far with help.
09-26-2007, 07:11 PM
#11
09-26-2007, 07:26 PM
#12
actually this forums is here for questions but if you read the rules you'll realize that asking other questions inside peoples threads is not allowed. There is a whole thread made for newbie questions. And yeah your twin turbo probably would snap our cars but its a twin turbo against a stock maxima...hmm obviously. Really not a good idea to jump into a forum and start acting like you own the place. Not going to get you far with help.
09-26-2007, 07:31 PM
#13
dude. shut the hell up.
oh i can do your 3.5 swap to the OP also. itll take me about 2 weeks taking my time because im busy with a lot of things. we did my whole swap in a week taking my time though.
oh i can do your 3.5 swap to the OP also. itll take me about 2 weeks taking my time because im busy with a lot of things. we did my whole swap in a week taking my time though.
09-27-2007, 07:44 AM
#14
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yes i do want more power i had n20 in the car for a little while it was auto but n20 is annoying havent to go refill it when its out.I want power all the time,i would love to do install my self but with work thats impossible.
So guys let me ask you another Q....i know the 3.0 is more boost friendly then the 3.5.So would it just be a better idea to t/c the 3.0 and call it a day.As far as the dek swap does i have the 00vi alrdy in the car.
..........
So guys let me ask you another Q....i know the 3.0 is more boost friendly then the 3.5.So would it just be a better idea to t/c the 3.0 and call it a day.As far as the dek swap does i have the 00vi alrdy in the car.
..........
09-27-2007, 07:47 AM
#16
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man you keep jumping ship. You just want power? I just think that b/c your the type of person that asks people to do your installs (End User) you will run into problems and will be constantly fixing your car. Unless your willing to go the extra mile with $$ to pay when stuff breaks.
IMO a 3.0 is very reliable. Its easy on the tranny compared to the 3.5 and can deliver as much punch fully tuned as any other car. Its all about the driver.
IMO a 3.0 is very reliable. Its easy on the tranny compared to the 3.5 and can deliver as much punch fully tuned as any other car. Its all about the driver.
09-27-2007, 09:48 AM
#17
yes i do want more power i had n20 in the car for a little while it was auto but n20 is annoying havent to go refill it when its out.I want power all the time,i would love to do install my self but with work thats impossible.
So guys let me ask you another Q....i know the 3.0 is more boost friendly then the 3.5.So would it just be a better idea to t/c the 3.0 and call it a day.As far as the dek swap does i have the 00vi alrdy in the car.
..........
So guys let me ask you another Q....i know the 3.0 is more boost friendly then the 3.5.So would it just be a better idea to t/c the 3.0 and call it a day.As far as the dek swap does i have the 00vi alrdy in the car.
..........
09-27-2007, 10:20 AM
#18
09-27-2007, 10:43 AM
#19
damn i didnt know throwing power numbers out your *** was whats going on in the streets now?
09-27-2007, 01:52 PM
#20
what are you talking about? Specs of the DE-K are about 220 hp. 4th gen puts out about 190 hp. Gains with the 00vi have been shown to give up to 20hp with some guys depending on the setup used. So what number did I throw out there?
09-27-2007, 02:02 PM
#21
what he ment was that there really isnt a "known" HP number that is added with the 00VI....Since there are so many setups that someone that uses both UIM and LIM off a 5th gen and they uses an ACF they can have a little bit more power than someone using the 4th gen LIM.....also you used the 5th gen BHP and then stated a WHP average from a 4th gen with the swap.......stock for stock the 4th gen with an 00vi swap would have like 210ish CHP where as the 5th gen is at 220ish being as the 5th gen has a slightly better exhaust and tune.....
09-27-2007, 02:05 PM
#22
what he ment was that there really isnt a "known" HP number that is added with the 00VI....Since there are so many setups that someone that uses both UIM and LIM off a 5th gen and they uses an ACF they can have a little bit more power than someone using the 4th gen LIM.....also you used the 5th gen BHP and then stated a WHP average from a 4th gen with the swap.......stock for stock the 4th gen with an 00vi swap would have like 210ish CHP where as the 5th gen is at 220ish being as the 5th gen has a slightly better exhaust and tune.....
09-27-2007, 04:12 PM
#23
To the OP. There's no problem with going 3.5 or T/C its really about you. Can you deal with break downs and constantly dealing with small problems? You said yourself your tired of refilling N20.
Either setup will require a strong transmission. I don't know how much you bang on your setup but with out a strong transmission you will constantly be dipping into your pockets.
If I were you I would go with the 3.5. Get some aggressive cams, do some headwork, make sure you have long tube headers, remove the shelf from the IM, put in the TB and intake spacers, get a manual ECU, and than get an engine management. You haven't really tapped into the engine management thing. Bolt ons are great but the real power comes from High reving, advance timing, than a perfect A/F.
Either setup will require a strong transmission. I don't know how much you bang on your setup but with out a strong transmission you will constantly be dipping into your pockets.
If I were you I would go with the 3.5. Get some aggressive cams, do some headwork, make sure you have long tube headers, remove the shelf from the IM, put in the TB and intake spacers, get a manual ECU, and than get an engine management. You haven't really tapped into the engine management thing. Bolt ons are great but the real power comes from High reving, advance timing, than a perfect A/F.
09-28-2007, 07:12 AM
#24
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Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 487
To the OP. There's no problem with going 3.5 or T/C its really about you. Can you deal with break downs and constantly dealing with small problems? You said yourself your tired of refilling N20.
Either setup will require a strong transmission. I don't know how much you bang on your setup but with out a strong transmission you will constantly be dipping into your pockets.
If I were you I would go with the 3.5. Get some aggressive cams, do some headwork, make sure you have long tube headers, remove the shelf from the IM, put in the TB and intake spacers, get a manual ECU, and than get an engine management. You haven't really tapped into the engine management thing. Bolt ons are great but the real power comes from High reving, advance timing, than a perfect A/F.
Either setup will require a strong transmission. I don't know how much you bang on your setup but with out a strong transmission you will constantly be dipping into your pockets.
If I were you I would go with the 3.5. Get some aggressive cams, do some headwork, make sure you have long tube headers, remove the shelf from the IM, put in the TB and intake spacers, get a manual ECU, and than get an engine management. You haven't really tapped into the engine management thing. Bolt ons are great but the real power comes from High reving, advance timing, than a perfect A/F.
Well put.
09-28-2007, 07:32 AM
#25
forgive me if i am wrong ... but isn't the 3.5 rated at the same BHP untill like 5,200 or 5,400 RPM? then it'll pull a little harder and give that extra grunt? i think it's due to the intake setup porting (dual vs single) and that is why the 3.0 lacks top end response. so, with a 00vi you take care of the top end lag problem and it's undoubtably cheaper too with far fewer problems i would think. toss in some 350z cams perhaps and of course sum BOOST! ta Matty for the SC kits - place your order with Matt and don't worry bout finding a 3.5 or having to try to track down problems later when stuff goes wrong. we all know ... most from experience, that when we tune, if we don't do it and it breaks, it's gonna cost more to fix than "normal".
ta Matty for the SC kits - place your order with Matt and don't worry bout finding a 3.5 or having to try to track down problems later when stuff goes wrong. we all know ... most from experience, that when we tune, if we don't do it and it breaks, it's gonna cost more to fix than "normal".
09-28-2007, 07:51 AM
#26
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i dont no fellas i think i might just keep the 3.0 and turbo it.I might me more inclined to get a 3.5 if i actualy got beat by one lol....just had a run in with a another 6spd 03 max but thats a different story for a different section.
How much power can the 3.0 handel with out doin internals?
How much power can the 3.0 handel with out doin internals?
09-28-2007, 07:54 AM
#27
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 848
To the OP. There's no problem with going 3.5 or T/C its really about you. Can you deal with break downs and constantly dealing with small problems? You said yourself your tired of refilling N20.
Either setup will require a strong transmission. I don't know how much you bang on your setup but with out a strong transmission you will constantly be dipping into your pockets.
If I were you I would go with the 3.5. Get some aggressive cams, do some headwork, make sure you have long tube headers, remove the shelf from the IM, put in the TB and intake spacers, get a manual ECU, and than get an engine management. You haven't really tapped into the engine management thing. Bolt ons are great but the real power comes from High reving, advance timing, than a perfect A/F.
Either setup will require a strong transmission. I don't know how much you bang on your setup but with out a strong transmission you will constantly be dipping into your pockets.
If I were you I would go with the 3.5. Get some aggressive cams, do some headwork, make sure you have long tube headers, remove the shelf from the IM, put in the TB and intake spacers, get a manual ECU, and than get an engine management. You haven't really tapped into the engine management thing. Bolt ons are great but the real power comes from High reving, advance timing, than a perfect A/F.
whats your opion on a strong tranny?lsd?Quafie(spelling) Well thats the next step reagardless of what i do...E manangment ultimate will be goin in...from what i see and am told the eu makes a hell of a difference.
09-28-2007, 03:28 PM
#28
There's been in the pass where people push the envelope with not doing internal work. I heard someone putting down close to 400 whp but the engine didn't last long. He was boosting very high on stock compression. With stock compression you can have a reliable 300 to 325 hp car. Start trolling the FI section they know alot more than I do.
In terms of tranny you can speak to level 10. A tranny from them cost around $3000.00. You can shot pin the gears or cryo the gears to make them stronger as well. Start using the search button to look up tranny build or something to that effect.
A LSD or Quafie will help with both wheels spin at the same time. Great for turning, snow, and making sure both wheels are heating up when it pertains to the 1/4 mile track.
In terms of tranny you can speak to level 10. A tranny from them cost around $3000.00. You can shot pin the gears or cryo the gears to make them stronger as well. Start using the search button to look up tranny build or something to that effect.
A LSD or Quafie will help with both wheels spin at the same time. Great for turning, snow, and making sure both wheels are heating up when it pertains to the 1/4 mile track.
09-28-2007, 06:06 PM
#30
09-29-2007, 07:08 AM
#32
Ya get a bit more than just top end mate, ya get torque out de azz too! but ... i still think a sc'd 3.0 would toast a 3.5 for sure. also, the 3.5 puts out 255 bhp, the stock 3 puts out 190 bhp. through in a full exahust, intake, and either turbo or sc (but bosst of some kind) and to top it all off, make it a DE-K. option 2 would be do 350z cams in the 3.0 still boost it, and have a day!
my thoughts, hope i didn't confuse anyone
cheers!
my thoughts, hope i didn't confuse anyone
cheers!
09-30-2007, 02:36 PM
#33
Look this is why I say there is so much potential in the 3.0
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=539495
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=539495
09-30-2007, 02:45 PM
#34
Ya get a bit more than just top end mate, ya get torque out de azz too! but ... i still think a sc'd 3.0 would toast a 3.5 for sure. also, the 3.5 puts out 255 bhp, the stock 3 puts out 190 bhp. through in a full exahust, intake, and either turbo or sc (but bosst of some kind) and to top it all off, make it a DE-K. option 2 would be do 350z cams in the 3.0 still boost it, and have a day!
my thoughts, hope i didn't confuse anyone
cheers!
my thoughts, hope i didn't confuse anyone
cheers!
Do the same to a 3.5, and well, you see what happens there. I still love the 3.0L as well
Also, advertised crank numbers don’t mean much, and we all know about area under the curve.
Also, to avoid confusion, Z33 cams and Maxima cams are the same, with the exception of rev-up models.
10-03-2007, 04:51 PM
#36
Didn't know that z33 cams were the same ... good to know I guess! 
I would still leave the 3.0 in place and work it over. I believe that ya go with what ya know. You don't know the 3.5l I assume ... so why bother to switch out a good engine if ya don't need to?
What about Z32 cams ???? any difference there at all? What about a MEVI or OOvi ??? PF TB even ??? Then there is always something crazy like a 300 shot of NOS up the arzz to get ya goin! heheheheh
I would still leave the 3.0 in place and work it over. I believe that ya go with what ya know. You don't know the 3.5l I assume ... so why bother to switch out a good engine if ya don't need to?
What about Z32 cams ???? any difference there at all? What about a MEVI or OOvi ??? PF TB even ??? Then there is always something crazy like a 300 shot of NOS up the arzz to get ya goin! heheheheh
10-03-2007, 09:33 PM
#38
Didn't know that z33 cams were the same ... good to know I guess!
I would still leave the 3.0 in place and work it over. I believe that ya go with what ya know. You don't know the 3.5l I assume ... so why bother to switch out a good engine if ya don't need to?
What about Z32 cams ???? any difference there at all? What about a MEVI or OOvi ??? PF TB even ??? Then there is always something crazy like a 300 shot of NOS up the arzz to get ya goin! heheheheh
I would still leave the 3.0 in place and work it over. I believe that ya go with what ya know. You don't know the 3.5l I assume ... so why bother to switch out a good engine if ya don't need to?
What about Z32 cams ???? any difference there at all? What about a MEVI or OOvi ??? PF TB even ??? Then there is always something crazy like a 300 shot of NOS up the arzz to get ya goin! heheheheh
10-03-2007, 09:47 PM
#39
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Originally Posted by KRRZ350
Originally Posted by icedout
In your own opinon with the 3.5 swaps are they reliable or not as good as the 3.0?Also what would you do turbo it or 3.5 swap it?
Now, basing it on the fun factor alone is also diffficult, the 3.5 is a tourqey beast down low, and it holds it's own up top as well, it's an animal all around. Turbo, allthough it could be configured either way, is generally a dog down low but absolutely screams to redline as you come onto boost, plus there are those oh so lovely sounds and a unique feel that you only get from driving a turbo car.
Ok, so still, which one is the best? Pound for Pound, well the 3.5 will be much much cheaper all said and done, and obviously could still be turboed after the fact. BUT the guys who are shattering 3rd/4th gears the most and putting down well over 300hp are the guys with a snail on there 3.0 exhaust.
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