View Poll Results: Stick with the USIM or go with the MEVI?
MEVI
30
76.92%
USIM
9
23.08%
Voters: 39. You may not vote on this poll
USIM vs. MEVI
#81
Yeah the MEVI swap itself is not that difficult being 100% bolt on, there are just some things that you will run into that are more difficult then others. For example, those 2 coolant lines on the back..biggest PITA ever!!! I ended up using a hose clamp because i coudlnt get the stock one over it. Other then that i had never done the mevi before, nor pulled off the Intake manifold. Did it in about 6 hours, but i also did the rear valve cover..and i let that sit for a good 30 minutes to set (RTV). Its pretty straight forward, there are write ups (on vqpower.com) and if you need help you can PM me. Did it 3 days ago so its still fresh in my mind lol..
I am also using a summit, and other then the fact that is was designed for a V8, so its about 2000rpm off, it always activates where it is set. I have it set at either 3200 or 3400rpm and it activates in the 5200rpm range all the time.
I am also using a summit, and other then the fact that is was designed for a V8, so its about 2000rpm off, it always activates where it is set. I have it set at either 3200 or 3400rpm and it activates in the 5200rpm range all the time.
#82
Whats this thing about it being designed for a V8 though? I know its true, but there is an adjustment screw on it. You can fine tune it so that 5,400 = 5,400 rpms if you want it to. Heck - if I sent mine to 5,600 right now it'd activate at 5,600 rpm.
Anywho.. 6 hours?? Ouch.. took me that long because I couldnt get the bolts off the back of the manifold so I had to put it all back together and drive down to the local hardware store and buy a shorter ratchet and socket. After that it was plain simple. I'm trying to think of which coolant lines you're referring to. I dont remember there being any on mine? I know there are coolant lines which run through the TB to control fast idle or something but I didnt need to remove my TB or IACV.. i pulled them off the manifold too... are you referring to the pipe that runs behind the manifold thats covered in this foilish heat wrap?
Last edited by jordandalley; 10-02-2007 at 07:21 PM.
#83
Originally Posted by jordandalley
Anywho.. 6 hours?? Ouch.. took me that long because I couldnt get the bolts off the back of the manifold so I had to put it all back together and drive down to the local hardware store and buy a shorter ratchet and socket. After that it was plain simple. I'm trying to think of which coolant lines you're referring to. I dont remember there being any on mine? I know there are coolant lines which run through the TB to control fast idle or something but I didnt need to remove my TB or IACV.. i pulled them off the manifold too... are you referring to the pipe that runs behind the manifold thats covered in this foilish heat wrap?
#84
Since we're on the subject.. heres some of my install pics...
Removing throttle cables, IACV plugs etc,
Removing TB and IACV from USIM
Manifold off..
Placement of MEVI.. yes it was second hand (off a JDM Cefiro)...
My advice for putting the manifold back on - Start with the rear manifold bolts first - it will save you hassles
Removing throttle cables, IACV plugs etc,
Removing TB and IACV from USIM
Manifold off..
Placement of MEVI.. yes it was second hand (off a JDM Cefiro)...
My advice for putting the manifold back on - Start with the rear manifold bolts first - it will save you hassles
Last edited by jordandalley; 10-02-2007 at 07:46 PM.
#85
Here is the Vacuum cannister location (I decided to mount mine under the engine covers) and I tapped the vaccuum source off the TB. I didnt use a "T" adapter like everyone else. If you notice.. my cannister was an OEM nissan one with three outlets. So basically I rerouted the vaccuum to its pre-existing purpose, whilst tapping it for the MEVI.
Here's the bits you need to get for activation.. I believe this little thing here is called an EGR Valve (correct me if i'm wrong)- basically 12v DC will activate this device and allow the vacuum to pass throuogh to the vaccuum actuator which opens and closes the butterfly valves. The EGR valve has three point - vaccuum source, vaccuum destination and expelling.
EGR Valve:
Vaccuum Cannister I used:
Here's the bits you need to get for activation.. I believe this little thing here is called an EGR Valve (correct me if i'm wrong)- basically 12v DC will activate this device and allow the vacuum to pass throuogh to the vaccuum actuator which opens and closes the butterfly valves. The EGR valve has three point - vaccuum source, vaccuum destination and expelling.
EGR Valve:
Vaccuum Cannister I used:
#86
Well 6 hours is not bad considering the issues i did run into lol.. I also did the rear valve cover, those 2 rear coolant lines..the ones that are just below the egr guide tube. I couldnt get the clamp on for the one going in, i think i spent about 45 minutes to an hour just trying to get that back on. Also the egr guide tube gasket fell out when i was putting the bolts in, didnt realize it untill i could hear a huge vacuum leak and the car ran like crap.
If i didnt run into any of these problems i say i could have had it done in 4 hours. But hey, ive never done the MEVI before, and ive never even had the IM off on this car before so im pretty happy. The 6 hours includes the time it took me to wire up the rpm switch, find places for everything and trouble shoot the coolant leak i had lol..
If i didnt run into any of these problems i say i could have had it done in 4 hours. But hey, ive never done the MEVI before, and ive never even had the IM off on this car before so im pretty happy. The 6 hours includes the time it took me to wire up the rpm switch, find places for everything and trouble shoot the coolant leak i had lol..
#87
Not bad in that case. well done. It's great to know you've done it yourself
Just a couple of pointers i'd use for getting it to activate and I know this has been covered before - but to have it in as many locations on this forum as possible is probably a good thing..
I had a 1998 Maxima with a digital instrument cluster/tacho. Basically these dont have the "TAM" screw for tapping RPM source from the ECU. You'll need to find the white/green wire (ie white with green stripes) on the ECU wiring loom.
Just a couple of pointers i'd use for getting it to activate and I know this has been covered before - but to have it in as many locations on this forum as possible is probably a good thing..
I had a 1998 Maxima with a digital instrument cluster/tacho. Basically these dont have the "TAM" screw for tapping RPM source from the ECU. You'll need to find the white/green wire (ie white with green stripes) on the ECU wiring loom.
#88
Not bad in that case. well done. It's great to know you've done it yourself
Just a couple of pointers i'd use for getting it to activate and I know this has been covered before - but to have it in as many locations on this forum as possible is probably a good thing..
I had a 1998 Maxima with a digital instrument cluster/tacho. Basically these dont have the "TAM" screw for tapping RPM source from the ECU. You'll need to find the white/green wire (ie white with green stripes) on the ECU wiring loom.
Just a couple of pointers i'd use for getting it to activate and I know this has been covered before - but to have it in as many locations on this forum as possible is probably a good thing..
I had a 1998 Maxima with a digital instrument cluster/tacho. Basically these dont have the "TAM" screw for tapping RPM source from the ECU. You'll need to find the white/green wire (ie white with green stripes) on the ECU wiring loom.
hey jordandalley im thinking about doing the mevi what would i need to get after i get the mevi and does it work well with an auto and also if i have headers on it will it interfear with the mevi mod i have an 95 gle
im sorry if these where answered already i just want to clear things up and have a good idea you know :
if there was a maxima book for dummys i would have it lol
thank you in advance
#89
lol - mine is an auto - there is nothing wrong with running a mevi with an auto. Headers will make it go even better. The MEVI loves to breathe, so getting rid of exhaust gases more efficiently will definitely help.
#92
Yeah, once you do it yourself, you become much more confident in that area. I would have no problem doing it now, i think i could probably get the manifold off and back on in maybe 1 hour. Just once you know what to do, where to look, what you need and what you dont need to take off everything becomes so much simpler.
But yeah. I am still having the problem with my MEVI not functioning properly. Jordan, you seem pretty knowledgable, do you think you could check out my thread (titled MEVI question), should still be on the first page, i am really at a loss of what it could be.
But yeah. I am still having the problem with my MEVI not functioning properly. Jordan, you seem pretty knowledgable, do you think you could check out my thread (titled MEVI question), should still be on the first page, i am really at a loss of what it could be.
#94
soo if i have the formula down right
MEVI+the parts nessary to put in mevi+JWT+dyno tune=turly working mevi the way it is truly ment to be run
plz correct me if im worng sorry if its repative
i really need that maxima for dummies :
hey can you record it soo i can hear that i would love to hear that
#97
My love is 1st gear.....I never take it all the way through second.....to many damn cops and 2 excessive speeding tickets will do that though....
I think the MPH on the shifts are
1-2 is 51ish
2-3 is 85ish
3-4 guess is 130ish
4 is god knows....
thats with 7200 rpm limit.....hell I still bounce off the damn limiter in first sometimes....
I think the MPH on the shifts are
1-2 is 51ish
2-3 is 85ish
3-4 guess is 130ish
4 is god knows....
thats with 7200 rpm limit.....hell I still bounce off the damn limiter in first sometimes....
#98
haha yeah. i figured out the top speed of each gear using one of those top speed calculators. Using my current tire size (225/45/17), with the 7200rpm rev limiter, first gear is 44mph, 2nd is 79mph, 3rd 116mph, 4th 154mph, 5th, 185mph. Now the question is do i have the ***** or the power to wind out even 4th gear, let alone 5th. I guess it will take some F/I to even get near the end of 5th gear lol.
Im still trying to get use to shifting that high up, when youve been short shifting for so long because of the USIM powerband it takes a bit to get use to.
Im still trying to get use to shifting that high up, when youve been short shifting for so long because of the USIM powerband it takes a bit to get use to.
#99
Auto:
1 - 2 = 0 - 70km/h
2 - 3 = 70km/h - 120km/h
3 - 4 = 120km/h - who knows havent been there in a while and when you do you aint lookin at the speedo :P
1 - 2 = 0 - 70km/h
2 - 3 = 70km/h - 120km/h
3 - 4 = 120km/h - who knows havent been there in a while and when you do you aint lookin at the speedo :P
#104
This picture was taken on Bayside Bridge in Clearwater, FL (by St. Petersburg/Clearwater Int. Airport) at 2am after dinner at Applebees while I was on vacation. For those of you who have never been to FL or Clearwater, FL...they have many bridges that are a couple miles long, so you can really punch it late at night as there is almost no cars out and no u-turns/exit rams for cops to sit at. That was the case on that night. I blew by one 18 wheeler who was in the middle lane and after that I didn't see lights ahead or behind me (except for the truck). I was in 4th gear in this picture so I would guesstimate that on a 99 Auto...4th gear kicks in at around 113-115mph. I never do this kind of stuff back home in NY lol.
Last edited by IlyaK; 10-03-2007 at 02:05 PM.
#106
Actually...now that I think about it and study the pic closer (the OD light is blurry so it's not very noticeable at a glance) looks like I had OD off completely...so I was technically still in third. But with the way the RPM's were...I would say it is safe to assume if I had OD on (4th gear engageable) I'd be in 4th.
#108
I've seen 4AT dynos and it is @ 6500 @ 130 MPH, so that's where I got my proof.
Everyone in here knows that, but some of us, for whatever reason, have the MEVI.
Originally Posted by speed racer
by the way 00vi still owns mevi
#109
^^Yep we are all aware that. But i dont like cold start issues i kid i kid, id put up with cold start issues for the extra power, but cant have the g-ride down for too long or ill miss work and missed work = missing money and i cant have that lol.
#113
is it possable to have a place racing CAI with the mevi???
what other items is a must with the mevi
VAFF II ??? or what i have no idea
what other items is a must with the mevi
VAFF II ??? or what i have no idea
#115
MEVI is a total and exact replacement of the USIM. It literally is just a different manifold. The TB, IACV and bolt patterns are all in the same places as the USIM - so yes... any CAI system will work
#116
thank you thank you thank you i also ran a mevi without ecu in my auto and didnt feel any lose at all and if so more like 2-5 hp threw out the band and i seen someone mention that you lose 8-12 hp.....i know i definalty would of felt that cause i definalty felt it when i added my y-pipe. (butt dyno) now im happlily married to my 5speed just wish she gets outta tranny surgery soon just off personal experience i left alot of vehicles with just that modd and would do it all over agian . yall come back now ya hurr
#118
I just did a butt dyno test with my stock ECU and JWT ECU....First I plugged in my stocker and went for a couple mile run....weird issue is that it didn't feel "that" bad....I felt a slight dip in power and the gears were a little slower but it still felt good....Now not being able to take it to 7200 sucked but I was actually surprised by the results....
I then put the JWT in and well it feels much better and makes for a crisper throttle and well....7200 RPMs is always fun....
IMO using the stock ECU isnt that bad until you get sick of shifting at 6500....If I could go back I would keep my stock ECU and get a EU instead of a JWT....Which I will be getting anyway here soon...
just for refrence I/E/Y MEVI JWT lightweight wheels (15 lbs)
I then put the JWT in and well it feels much better and makes for a crisper throttle and well....7200 RPMs is always fun....
IMO using the stock ECU isnt that bad until you get sick of shifting at 6500....If I could go back I would keep my stock ECU and get a EU instead of a JWT....Which I will be getting anyway here soon...
just for refrence I/E/Y MEVI JWT lightweight wheels (15 lbs)