Went to detach teh IACV today, but i found out my socket wrench set doesnt include the proper sized piece to remove the nuts. So, having read on the 3rd gen forums that some just sprayed TB cleaner into the intake hose, i did the same (removed hose from maf to IACV and sparyed in there). I sprayed for a few seconds, reattached, started, revved, turned off, and repeated two more times. Problem is, nothing has changed. I'm wondering if this is a problem with the IACV anyway. My headlights/fogs are on, and if i let her idle for a few mins, and then shift into R or D, the RPM drops to JUST under 500, and then slowly creeps back up to around 600 after a minute. What should I really be chasing after? Thanks!

 

use the adjustment **** and raise it.

 

what is "TB cleaner"

 

you have a digital camera to take pictures of what your trying to do? I got to either do what your doing or do as phoung says and disconnect the negative terminal and reset ecu (but that takes an hour GR? i'll probably do as you say tomorrow morning...)

 

Throttle body cleaner.

 

base idle in neutral/park is correct already at 700 rpm. so somethings holding it back, and i dont want to cover it up with raising the idle.

 

sorry, dont have a digi cam right now. perhaps i can describe the situation. when looking at the IACV when standing on the side of engine bay (driver's side), you see a hose coming out from the mafs area and connecting into the IACV. i merely removed this, and a metal pipe which sits horizontally curves into the housing (right by the idle screw). I sprayed into that...

 

Ok, a lot of us seem to have this problem. I have the same thing. When lights are on and I am driving, switch to neutral and wait till the rpm drops. It goes to 500 and back to normal. I have 5spd. It happens only with light on and only when gears are shifted to neutral and rpms go all the way down. Please somebody help. We need help. pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.

 

Having a similar problem sorry no suggestions but BUMP!!!!!

 

it's normal for the rpms to drive when you engage the auto trans into gear. Get a manual trans

Raise it to 800 rpm in neutral

 

hi stilleni30 - when you cleaned the tb, did you hold the throttle plate open? the crud is on the side of the throttle plate that is NOT facing you when you simply look in the intake hose. you can tilt that plate back by holding the accelerator cable that sits to the left of that whole assembly .... i should add that this process cleans the tb, but NOT necessarily the iacv. in my case, it actually pushed some tb crap into the iacv, which made it even more important to take off & clean the iacv. maybe you'll have better luck than me
good luck & come back if you have any other questions.
maury

 

maury...i did read through your expriences with the clean procedure on the iacv. yes, when i cleaned the tb last week, i had the hose off and sprayed into the tb with the butterfly open...scrubbed with a tooth brush too. i really wish to take off the tb and the iacv this weekend and see whats up behind there. i told the dealer about it, and they refuse to acknowledge anything is wrong...my friends '00 max and many of the '00 I30 loaners i used never exhibit this behavior...when the headlights/foglights are flicked on in those two cars, the rpms dip about 30 (which is NOTHING) and then return back to normal...shifting into R or D does nothing and it stays butter smooth all the way thru...gotta call up customer service and get them to "goodwill" me on this sinc emy warranty went out in june...will update when i take off the iacv/tb.

 

whoops! that last post was by me, Stillen_I30, but my friend was logged on with his id...sorry for the confusion!

 

Hey Stillen I30, Sardarg89, papadidypop, whatever your name is FYI there is a gasket you'll want to replace between the TB and the intake manifold. Mine looked fine, but I replaced it because you should. One last thing, along with the IACV there is also two other things that control idle, one is for the a/c and the other is for ps. Good luck w/ your prob.

 

i have 2 pictures that are fairly large pictures (for detail purposes) If someone could point out the IACV, i'd appreciate it.

Engine shot w/ intake removed...

Close up

Chris

 

hi chris. in your "close up" pic, the iacv housing is the small metal object that 3 plactic electronic connections are hooked up to. one plastic piece is red, one's purple and one's gray. in your pic, the iacv is halfway down on the right hand side ... sort of at 3:00. it's connected to the engine by 3 bolts in a triangular pattern (sort of) and the bolt that's closest to the windshiled is a bee-atch to get at you'll see a circular black plastic dealy (homer simpson) above it that can be removed to get a better angle at bolt #3 of iacv.
good luck
maury

 

the black thing is for the cruise control.

while you're wrenching, tighten the slack on the throttle cable

 

see that black hose that you detached from the intake...it sits next to the TB opening? i removed that and sprayed in there like 6 times...didnt resolve the problem...I think it deserves to be taken off and cleaned properly though, so i'll try that next weekend..

 

do you know the part ## for this gasket? do i have to get it from Nissan or can I pick an equally well performing gasket at Pep Boys/AutoZone? Thanks...

 

Sorry, I don't remember the part number. I got mine from Courtesy. It arrived real quick. I would think the bigger auto parts stores would have the throttle body gasket in stock, and I think they would be just as good as the Nissan one.

 

wish i knew about the gasket earlier...i just ordered a bunch of parts from nissan with free shipping oh well

 

Permatex makes a gasket for the throttle body if you don't want to use a pre-form OEM one. You can pick it up at the local Pepboys

 

I was quoted ~ $4.50 for the TB gasket at the local dealership

 

not a bad price at all...i might as well hop on over to the dealer and pick one up...so correct me if I'm wrong, but this gasket fits between the TB housing and the intake housing? thanks again!

 

it goes between the TB and the intake manifold. It seperates the two metal surfaces. It's on the side of the TB opposite the ribbed hose. You can't miss it. Just make sure you have a torque wrench to reattach the TB. You don't want to overighten it. It feels like aluminum or something soft like that. Is your car running better or is all of this still in an effort to get it running right?

 

when i originally just removed the ribbed intake hose away from the tb and scrubbed a little with the toothbrush, it ran a little better. but i dont feel i got a good cleaning (it was still kinda tight in there with just the hose removed). I am trying to get Infiniti to goodwill me a new IACV AAC valve since my car went otu of warranty in June, i had complaied about this before the warranty was up and they didnt resolve it. I hope that goes through...will have to wait until Monday to find out though...wish me luck!

 

What is FYI? Why replace it? How hard to replace it? where is it? WOuld it solve my problem of rpm rop? Thank you all........

 

for your information

 

Whats up with this post?
I asked a question that people should know cause its recomended here and I get no answer?

 

This is too funny. FYI in my post meant For Your Information. The rest of this post has to do with the IACV (idle air control valve). Some of us have cleaned our cars throttle bodies and IACV's. The original post was for someone to determine where it was located. If your car has high mileage (< 70k) I'd check into the post on TB CLEANING or re-read this one. Hope that clears some things up for you.

 

just went out and picked up some food at BK (99Cent Chicken-sandwiches!!!1) and while i'm waiting for my food, i glance down and for the first time in like a week, 700RPM!!! seems like my car is back to normal, and all i did was clean out the TB again. Good-luck with your I30


Chris

 

It's gotta be the chicken sandwich. The in my idle has disappeared as well. Car is running awesome now.

 

I've always thought it meant 'fawk you, idiot' lol j/k