Best way to remove knock sensor?
search isnt working becuase you havent donated...go to www.motorvate.ca for a walkthrough on the KS replacement. i ended up getting my friends 9 year old son to stick his hand in underneath the manifold (after loosening it with a socket).
I got an open ended wrench on it and used a pry bar on teh other end of the wrench to then get enough wedge-force on it to break it loose. I also had a strong magnet nearby cuz I dropped the wrench down in there a few times.
A swivel ratchet was useless for removal.
With nitrile gloves, I was able to get my hand in there for the re-installation but used the swivel socket to get it started with some masking tape to hold it in the socket & start the threads.
Don't give up.
A swivel ratchet was useless for removal.
With nitrile gloves, I was able to get my hand in there for the re-installation but used the swivel socket to get it started with some masking tape to hold it in the socket & start the threads.
Don't give up.
search isnt working becuase you havent donated...go to www.motorvate.ca for a walkthrough on the KS replacement. i ended up getting my friends 9 year old son to stick his hand in underneath the manifold (after loosening it with a socket).
Sensor is cheap on eBay, and if you want to do it correctly (torque down the sensor to spec), take the manifold off.
I've done it both ways, but it seems more thorough to take the IM off. Not that big of a deal either way.
I've done it both ways, but it seems more thorough to take the IM off. Not that big of a deal either way.
yea i forget where it was online, but it was $65.17 before shipping. granted my car got wrecked about three days after installing it, but my low end torque was far better and it seemed like my MPG was better as well. its worth it.
here it is. i got a thread open on this from a couple weeks back.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/cata...1211432k319760
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/cata...1211432k319760
I got mine off Ebay for $50, genuine Nissan part. It was a Bisnich to replace. Took me 5 diffrent wench, socket, extension combo's before i got one to work. Took 30 mins total. Would have been 5 mins if it was easier to get to.
After the knock sensor is replaced, is there anything else that needs done to the pcm? Do i need to take it to advance auto to have them clear any codes it might have stored? i'm not getting any CEL's
yea you might as well have the codes cleared. ive heard stories on here of the KS being replaced and the code being wiped, but then showing up 10 days later. you should feel a boost in performance especially as well as a rise in gas mileage. if you arent feeling those and the code is still showing, then you probably didnt install it properly or you got a defective unit.
best way for removal is buying a 12mm swiveling socket....not the swivel joint plus the 12mm socket on top.
also put a piece of electric tape on the end (a small piece inside the socket area)
and use a combination of different extension bars to have enough room to maneuver.
the electric tape will allow the swivel socket to stay snug.
literally took me 10 minutes to do the entire thing (not including the 5 minutes to take apart the intake and filter box).
i actually used a piece of plastic bag instead of electrical tape last time. a strong magnetic wand will help
also put a piece of electric tape on the end (a small piece inside the socket area)
and use a combination of different extension bars to have enough room to maneuver.
the electric tape will allow the swivel socket to stay snug.
literally took me 10 minutes to do the entire thing (not including the 5 minutes to take apart the intake and filter box).
i actually used a piece of plastic bag instead of electrical tape last time. a strong magnetic wand will help
best way for removal is buying a 12mm swiveling socket....not the swivel joint plus the 12mm socket on top.
also put a piece of electric tape on the end (a small piece inside the socket area)
and use a combination of different extension bars to have enough room to maneuver.
the electric tape will allow the swivel socket to stay snug.
literally took me 10 minutes to do the entire thing (not including the 5 minutes to take apart the intake and filter box).
i actually used a piece of plastic bag instead of electrical tape last time. a strong magnetic wand will help
also put a piece of electric tape on the end (a small piece inside the socket area)
and use a combination of different extension bars to have enough room to maneuver.
the electric tape will allow the swivel socket to stay snug.
literally took me 10 minutes to do the entire thing (not including the 5 minutes to take apart the intake and filter box).
i actually used a piece of plastic bag instead of electrical tape last time. a strong magnetic wand will help
A short 12mm 6pt socket on a 3/8" flex joint, with a long 3/8" extension to a long-handled ratchet will take it off. Use tape inside the socket to hold the bolt taking it out and putting it back. Have one of those long 3-finger grabbers nearby and a good light too, so when you drop something, you can fish it out. A magnet on a long handle also works good.
It takes me about 10 minutes to pull one and replace it. Don't have to take anything else off - if you can see the sensor, you can take it loose. Don't tighten the new one too hard. It's a sensor, not a lug nut!
I would search and look into something else as a bad knock sensor will not give you a CEL.

Might want to check the voltage on your sensor before going ahead and replacing.
Removing the manifold also requires replacing the gasket for it right? It's also a good oportunity to clean the intake, but for me I would probably end up breaking something else. I'm sure glad I didn't have to....
I would record every step if you do it... I always forget to hook crap back up and always have half the time I think I do to complete car stuff.
+1^ for not cranking down in it too much during installation. Tight is tight...hell you were just lucky to get it out & the new one back in. Clean the connectors at the other end of the wiring harness too.
My code cleared itself afterwards after about 3 weeks of normal driving cycles. (home-work-home & various errands)
I would record every step if you do it... I always forget to hook crap back up and always have half the time I think I do to complete car stuff.
+1^ for not cranking down in it too much during installation. Tight is tight...hell you were just lucky to get it out & the new one back in. Clean the connectors at the other end of the wiring harness too.
My code cleared itself afterwards after about 3 weeks of normal driving cycles. (home-work-home & various errands)
Search / Read and you shall find Post #3(0304) http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=76800
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
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