Master Cylinder ByPass
10-11-2007, 12:03 PM
#1
Master Cylinder ByPass
Has anyone ever heard of this? Apparently it's not allowing my car to be able to stop and I need to replace the master cylinder? I've never heard this term...
10-11-2007, 01:26 PM
#2
You mean they bypassed the master cylinder? Or they think it has some sort of 'bypass' mechanism?
In any case, they told you that the brake master cylinder is bad? What are your symptoms?
In any case, they told you that the brake master cylinder is bad? What are your symptoms?
10-11-2007, 01:30 PM
#4
My symptoms are using the e-brake because the brakes don't work. See, I know master cylinders do go bad due to internal leaks. But I've just never heard of this. It most likely is an internal and I will have to replace it but I just don't know why one day my brakes just stop working. I did have a leak in a line but that was fixed, no more leak. Why all of a sudden master cylinder failure, you know?
10-11-2007, 01:34 PM
#5
My symptoms are using the e-brake because the brakes don't work. See, I know master cylinders do go bad due to internal leaks. But I've just never heard of this. It most likely is an internal and I will have to replace it but I just don't know why one day my brakes just stop working. I did have a leak in a line but that was fixed, no more leak. Why all of a sudden master cylinder failure, you know?
If brake fluid is disappearing from the MC reservoir, it has to go somewhere. It is possible that the MC has been failing for a while, and one last hard stab on the pedal finished it off, who knows without dissecting it.
10-11-2007, 01:36 PM
#6
No pedal pressure at all one day due to the torn brake line. Replaced, no more leaking. Did a bleed on everything except passenger rear due to a frozen and stripped bleeder. Still no stopping power whatsoever.
10-11-2007, 01:50 PM
#8
Very much so. I just bought a new master cylinder off of eBay for 20 bucks so if worse comes to worse I'll replace. I just wasn't paying a shop 400 for the part plus labor. They already did me in on charging 219 to flair the hardline....
I'd just like to know if there is someway to check for an internal leak or maybe if I just drill that bleeder screw and replace it to then bleed the brakes again, that will work. I just don't see how air in one line would not allow me to even slow down.
I'd just like to know if there is someway to check for an internal leak or maybe if I just drill that bleeder screw and replace it to then bleed the brakes again, that will work. I just don't see how air in one line would not allow me to even slow down.
10-11-2007, 06:49 PM
#10
mate ... you payed HOW much for them to make a line for you? WTF ... why not just get that line from the classifieds forums? WAY WWAAYY cheaper I would only guess.
If you need to drill and tap a bleader valve ... replace the part, don't mess it up worse. A caliper from classifieds from Fanatickarockford to me shipped was like $40 or so ... can't recall. I had one on the rear that was not budgin so ... why fight it at that point, it froze so ... well worth my money to do it.
Just a side note ... why do any of us Orgrs take our cars to a shop? I mean ... honestly, I see a point for some of us, but .... I just have trouble getting my head around it. I do all my own work, always have, always will - when I can.
If you need to drill and tap a bleader valve ... replace the part, don't mess it up worse. A caliper from classifieds from Fanatickarockford to me shipped was like $40 or so ... can't recall. I had one on the rear that was not budgin so ... why fight it at that point, it froze so ... well worth my money to do it.
Just a side note ... why do any of us Orgrs take our cars to a shop? I mean ... honestly, I see a point for some of us, but .... I just have trouble getting my head around it. I do all my own work, always have, always will - when I can.
10-11-2007, 07:00 PM
#11
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Yeah flaring brake lines is tricky though, they had us practice that for 5 days straight in shop, it was crazy, they made such a big deal about it. but $220 is absolutely RIDICULOUS, and on top of that they couldn't fully bleed your brakes and let you walk out like that and charged you? Are you kidding me?
use vise-grips on the bleeder screw, yes they freeze but if it is truly frozen you should at least be able to turn it until it snaps off inside the caliper. Clamp the visegrips as tight as you can possibly get them. But yeah, don't re-tap that bleeder, you need to replace the caliper.
use vise-grips on the bleeder screw, yes they freeze but if it is truly frozen you should at least be able to turn it until it snaps off inside the caliper. Clamp the visegrips as tight as you can possibly get them. But yeah, don't re-tap that bleeder, you need to replace the caliper.
10-11-2007, 09:34 PM
#13
man just do this.... shut the car off. pump the brake till it gets stiff.. then floor it and keep pressure on it.. if it goes down after 30 seconds then its bad...
ALSO check the booster 1 way valve... the booster can be leaking/ not getting vacuum..
ALSO check the booster 1 way valve... the booster can be leaking/ not getting vacuum..
10-12-2007, 08:53 AM
#14
It was just the caliper and them not bleeding the brakes at all, as far as I can tell. I replaced the caliper, did a bleed on all four brakes, and now the car works. The reason I took it somewhere to begin with was because I just couldn't get the leak to stop. I was out of ideas. That was the first, and hopefully the last time I have to take it anywhere.
10-13-2007, 01:32 PM
#19
It looks like u may have to replace the caliper,but u could try some 100% syn.oil & heat.Its gotten a lot of frozen threads apart for me.It may take several trys or just snap the bleeder riht away.Next time around replace your bleeders with the ones that have a check valve& u can do it yourself.
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