97 Standard Maxima -- Starting issues. Electrical or starter, help?
10-29-2007, 07:23 PM
#41
Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Los Angeles, california
Posts: 52
i found this thread, not too sure if it'll help anyone out... but i' gonna give it shot, i'm tired of my car leaving me... after a 20minute or longer drive my car wont start... but after a few hours of sitting it'll start right up... so confusing.. and frustrating too... im bummed... replaced a battery and starter and still geting stranded... can anyone tell me where i can find the starter relay?
i just also heard that the problem is the actual starter.. and if you dont buy an actual OEM starter that youre wasting your time, the problem will persist... can anyone shed any light on why this might be? sounds kinda true, cuz i replaced my starter and it worked for about a month then this started...
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothrea...postid=3004470
i just also heard that the problem is the actual starter.. and if you dont buy an actual OEM starter that youre wasting your time, the problem will persist... can anyone shed any light on why this might be? sounds kinda true, cuz i replaced my starter and it worked for about a month then this started...
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothrea...postid=3004470
Last edited by Art's97i30; 10-29-2007 at 07:31 PM. Reason: added new information
10-29-2007, 07:42 PM
#42
1st Class MECP Installer
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Madtown, Wi
Posts: 14
Same issue
If you still have the same problem, I think what is happening is that you key cylinder is worn out and will not make the connection to the starter wire The click that you hear is the factory relay for the Accessory Circuit #1 and #2. They turn off when you go to start the car. Your Ignition wires should still be getting +12 volts. You can verify that this is the problem by testing the two starter wires under the knee bolster below the column.
I found in my 97 maxima that this was the issue and just used a couple relays and put in a push button start. If you need wiring help or diagrams email me.
I found in my 97 maxima that this was the issue and just used a couple relays and put in a push button start. If you need wiring help or diagrams email me.
10-30-2007, 06:29 AM
#43
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 11
I had similar issues, with the start/no-start problem. After a few months of scratching my head, it turned out to be the ground wire from the battery to body. Found out by actually letting a mechanic touch my car after the starter went on me. He has apparently seen this problem on 4th gens quite often. He threw out the perverse grounding bracket, changed the cable and grounded it directly to the body. No issues for over two years until early Monday morning.
Here's my current dilemma: I knew my battery was going but stupidly did not change it. I get back from a 10 day business trip and the car won't turn over in the airport garage. A good samaritan gave me a hot shot which started the car, but I think he accidently reversed the cables the first time he attempted it (I saw the sparks from inside the car). I didn't think much of it until I tried to lock my doors and roll down the windows. It appears everything connected to the outside fuse box has stopped working, like the radio, wipers, doorlocks, etc. Checked the fuses and all look good. Any suggestions of where to start looking next to fix the problem? Fusible links maybe?
Here's my current dilemma: I knew my battery was going but stupidly did not change it. I get back from a 10 day business trip and the car won't turn over in the airport garage. A good samaritan gave me a hot shot which started the car, but I think he accidently reversed the cables the first time he attempted it (I saw the sparks from inside the car). I didn't think much of it until I tried to lock my doors and roll down the windows. It appears everything connected to the outside fuse box has stopped working, like the radio, wipers, doorlocks, etc. Checked the fuses and all look good. Any suggestions of where to start looking next to fix the problem? Fusible links maybe?
10-30-2007, 02:55 PM
#45
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 11
Thanks for the reply bud. I did check the fuses last night by hand (LOL - couldn't find my tester) and they were all good. EXCEPT for the biggie in the engine compartment (just did it a few hours ago and can't remember if it was 120 or 125 amp). I originally looked at it by flashlight and it seemed OK until I rechecked today and thought I saw a break. I cracked the clear top open and inserted a screwdriver, making a connection - lo and behold, everything started working. Unlike the rest of the fuses, the darn thing was bolted in on two sides, so it took a little effort to replace. $2.31 later, everything is fine.
10-30-2007, 03:28 PM
#46
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,012
Thanks for you insight and reply. This is the first idea that might make some sense and i say that b/c shortly before my starting issues developed i was having some issues with my car key in the ignition. I can't remember (didn't pay much attention to it) but i believe i was having problems getting the key in and then turning it, it would get 'caught' and not turn until i took the key out re-inserted a few times then it would allow me to turn the entire 180 degrees or so.
I hear "The click that you hear is the factory relay for the Accessory Circuit #1 and #2." when i turn the key.
I'm still suspect about one item. Last weekend i took everything apart and got down to the starter. I removed all the wires and took some steel wool to all the connections so i could be assured iam getting good contact. Note: I did NOT take the starter out (2 bolts were a PITA and since i wasn't actually replacing the starter i didn't think there was a need). When i put everything back together my starter did like two 'turns' at what seemed like 50% power... i have a video that I'll post.
I hear "The click that you hear is the factory relay for the Accessory Circuit #1 and #2." when i turn the key.
I'm still suspect about one item. Last weekend i took everything apart and got down to the starter. I removed all the wires and took some steel wool to all the connections so i could be assured iam getting good contact. Note: I did NOT take the starter out (2 bolts were a PITA and since i wasn't actually replacing the starter i didn't think there was a need). When i put everything back together my starter did like two 'turns' at what seemed like 50% power... i have a video that I'll post.
I had similar issues, with the start/no-start problem. After a few months of scratching my head, it turned out to be the ground wire from the battery to body. Found out by actually letting a mechanic touch my car after the starter went on me. He has apparently seen this problem on 4th gens quite often. He threw out the perverse grounding bracket, changed the cable and grounded it directly to the body. No issues for over two years until early Monday morning.
Here's my current dilemma: I knew my battery was going but stupidly did not change it. I get back from a 10 day business trip and the car won't turn over in the airport garage. A good samaritan gave me a hot shot which started the car, but I think he accidently reversed the cables the first time he attempted it (I saw the sparks from inside the car). I didn't think much of it until I tried to lock my doors and roll down the windows. It appears everything connected to the outside fuse box has stopped working, like the radio, wipers, doorlocks, etc. Checked the fuses and all look good. Any suggestions of where to start looking next to fix the problem? Fusible links maybe?
Here's my current dilemma: I knew my battery was going but stupidly did not change it. I get back from a 10 day business trip and the car won't turn over in the airport garage. A good samaritan gave me a hot shot which started the car, but I think he accidently reversed the cables the first time he attempted it (I saw the sparks from inside the car). I didn't think much of it until I tried to lock my doors and roll down the windows. It appears everything connected to the outside fuse box has stopped working, like the radio, wipers, doorlocks, etc. Checked the fuses and all look good. Any suggestions of where to start looking next to fix the problem? Fusible links maybe?
10-31-2007, 02:37 PM
#48
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 11
Like I said before, with slow cranking, no cranking start issues, the first thing I would check is the ground cable from the battery to the body.
A. Make sure everything at the battery is clean and secure. The connection at the negative terminal should be tight, with no movement whatsoever.
B. Inspect the ground cable for fraying and other wear or damage.
C. Clean the ground connection at the body bracket, both from the cable to the bracket and from the bracket to the body, or throw out the bracket completely and connect the cable directly to the body.
Let me know if it worked - it should be a 10 minute job.
A. Make sure everything at the battery is clean and secure. The connection at the negative terminal should be tight, with no movement whatsoever.
B. Inspect the ground cable for fraying and other wear or damage.
C. Clean the ground connection at the body bracket, both from the cable to the bracket and from the bracket to the body, or throw out the bracket completely and connect the cable directly to the body.
Let me know if it worked - it should be a 10 minute job.
10-31-2007, 09:01 PM
#49
Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Los Angeles, california
Posts: 52
im kinda car illiterate... so can anyone help me out on finding the ground wire for the battery... is it the one on the right side of the of the battery.. towards the front driverside tire bolted onto the body? or is that the ground for the fuse box? does the fuse box even need grounding? im an idiot!
10-31-2007, 09:22 PM
#50
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Clifton,NJ
Posts: 98
Im not exactly sure bud, but I just checked mine tonight and it looks like its directly under the battery tray, all dirty looking on mine. If you follow the negative lead you'll see where it connects. Sooooo, I think thats it, worth checking and conditioning whatever ground it is, is the way I see it. See ya tomorrow. scooby out...........zzzzzzzzzzz
11-01-2007, 04:05 PM
#51
Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Los Angeles, california
Posts: 52
i followed the neg (ground) cable to the engine and i unscrewed it and cleaned it and it didnt make a difference..
now im gonna try switching my wiper relay with my starter one to see if thats the problem... but ummm... are the relays on the passenger side???? and how do i remove those things? i cant seem to figure it out...
now im gonna try switching my wiper relay with my starter one to see if thats the problem... but ummm... are the relays on the passenger side???? and how do i remove those things? i cant seem to figure it out...
11-01-2007, 11:41 PM
#54
Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Los Angeles, california
Posts: 52
its an i30... it seems like theyre a bit tough coming out... i dont want to break anything by forcing them too hard either... and just to make sure, the relays are in the little box on the passenger side of the car under the hood, right?
11-03-2007, 10:08 PM
#55
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 2
My problems sound similar to Maximaman...I'm at a complete loss...Starting problem on my 95 Max (120K). Fighting this for two days plus!
Car would'nt start, no click, nothing. Tried jumping, nothing. Bought a new battery, same problem: headlight, dashlights, heater fan all work fine, as before. But, when I turn the key, no click, no crank, nada!
Pulled the starter, cleaned it out with mineral spirits, repacked with grease (see http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/516), took it to Autozone to test...Starter tested GOOD!
Reinstalled the starter this morning...Car started up like a champ! Tested four times with no problems!...On the fifth try...Same as before! No click, no crank, no start!!!!! Clock dims alot when turning the key indicating a heavy current draw.
Checked both battery cables and sanded all connections, including the red links attached to the positive cable going to the fuse box...Cable looked good, no corrosion or oxidation, no breaks in insulation. Ground is solid and clean. It's got to be contact, but I've cleaned every contact point and cables are solid...
Pulled out the starter, again, took it to a different Autozone and watched the starter pass three straight times! What the heck is going on? Why does this starter keep passing the bench test?
What's left to check? It can't be the ignition switch since my car started this morning...Same goes with the starter relay. How can it be bad if it worked this morning, too? Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Car would'nt start, no click, nothing. Tried jumping, nothing. Bought a new battery, same problem: headlight, dashlights, heater fan all work fine, as before. But, when I turn the key, no click, no crank, nada!
Pulled the starter, cleaned it out with mineral spirits, repacked with grease (see http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/516), took it to Autozone to test...Starter tested GOOD!
Reinstalled the starter this morning...Car started up like a champ! Tested four times with no problems!...On the fifth try...Same as before! No click, no crank, no start!!!!! Clock dims alot when turning the key indicating a heavy current draw.
Checked both battery cables and sanded all connections, including the red links attached to the positive cable going to the fuse box...Cable looked good, no corrosion or oxidation, no breaks in insulation. Ground is solid and clean. It's got to be contact, but I've cleaned every contact point and cables are solid...
Pulled out the starter, again, took it to a different Autozone and watched the starter pass three straight times! What the heck is going on? Why does this starter keep passing the bench test?
What's left to check? It can't be the ignition switch since my car started this morning...Same goes with the starter relay. How can it be bad if it worked this morning, too? Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!
11-04-2007, 08:02 PM
#57
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Clifton,NJ
Posts: 98
Intermittant is a b*tch to find bud. Broken wires.....broken coil windings......bad grounds....they make you nuts. Look for solid evidence at each device to proof it or condemn it. See if you getting proper voltage to the solenoid and starter when your turning the ignition key, with a helper if you need to, then it may show you which direction to keep looking... good luck. V
My problems sound similar to Maximaman...I'm at a complete loss...Starting problem on my 95 Max (120K). Fighting this for two days plus!
Car would'nt start, no click, nothing. Tried jumping, nothing. Bought a new battery, same problem: headlight, dashlights, heater fan all work fine, as before. But, when I turn the key, no click, no crank, nada!
Pulled the starter, cleaned it out with mineral spirits, repacked with grease (see http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/516), took it to Autozone to test...Starter tested GOOD!
Reinstalled the starter this morning...Car started up like a champ! Tested four times with no problems!...On the fifth try...Same as before! No click, no crank, no start!!!!! Clock dims alot when turning the key indicating a heavy current draw.
Checked both battery cables and sanded all connections, including the red links attached to the positive cable going to the fuse box...Cable looked good, no corrosion or oxidation, no breaks in insulation. Ground is solid and clean. It's got to be contact, but I've cleaned every contact point and cables are solid...
Pulled out the starter, again, took it to a different Autozone and watched the starter pass three straight times! What the heck is going on? Why does this starter keep passing the bench test?
What's left to check? It can't be the ignition switch since my car started this morning...Same goes with the starter relay. How can it be bad if it worked this morning, too? Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Car would'nt start, no click, nothing. Tried jumping, nothing. Bought a new battery, same problem: headlight, dashlights, heater fan all work fine, as before. But, when I turn the key, no click, no crank, nada!
Pulled the starter, cleaned it out with mineral spirits, repacked with grease (see http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/516), took it to Autozone to test...Starter tested GOOD!
Reinstalled the starter this morning...Car started up like a champ! Tested four times with no problems!...On the fifth try...Same as before! No click, no crank, no start!!!!! Clock dims alot when turning the key indicating a heavy current draw.
Checked both battery cables and sanded all connections, including the red links attached to the positive cable going to the fuse box...Cable looked good, no corrosion or oxidation, no breaks in insulation. Ground is solid and clean. It's got to be contact, but I've cleaned every contact point and cables are solid...
Pulled out the starter, again, took it to a different Autozone and watched the starter pass three straight times! What the heck is going on? Why does this starter keep passing the bench test?
What's left to check? It can't be the ignition switch since my car started this morning...Same goes with the starter relay. How can it be bad if it worked this morning, too? Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!
11-04-2007, 08:10 PM
#58
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
I'm getting sick of seeing starting threads where half of the time the symptoms indicate bad connections. There are many connections in the starter circuit that must be PERFECT. All of you need to run out and buy a voltmeter so you can perform a "voltage drop test". Google it.
11-05-2007, 10:41 AM
#59
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,012
This did it for me. I'll start with this and see if i can locate the exact break in the circuits. I was going to replace my starter and i might still have to, but i'll do this first.
-thx
-thx
I'm getting sick of seeing starting threads where half of the time the symptoms indicate bad connections. There are many connections in the starter circuit that must be PERFECT. All of you need to run out and buy a voltmeter so you can perform a "voltage drop test". Google it.
11-05-2007, 10:43 AM
#60
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,012
I bet our solution to our problem is one in the same...
My problems sound similar to Maximaman...I'm at a complete loss...Starting problem on my 95 Max (120K). Fighting this for two days plus!
Car would'nt start, no click, nothing. Tried jumping, nothing. Bought a new battery, same problem: headlight, dashlights, heater fan all work fine, as before. But, when I turn the key, no click, no crank, nada!
Pulled the starter, cleaned it out with mineral spirits, repacked with grease (see http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/516), took it to Autozone to test...Starter tested GOOD!
Reinstalled the starter this morning...Car started up like a champ! Tested four times with no problems!...On the fifth try...Same as before! No click, no crank, no start!!!!! Clock dims alot when turning the key indicating a heavy current draw.
Checked both battery cables and sanded all connections, including the red links attached to the positive cable going to the fuse box...Cable looked good, no corrosion or oxidation, no breaks in insulation. Ground is solid and clean. It's got to be contact, but I've cleaned every contact point and cables are solid...
Pulled out the starter, again, took it to a different Autozone and watched the starter pass three straight times! What the heck is going on? Why does this starter keep passing the bench test?
What's left to check? It can't be the ignition switch since my car started this morning...Same goes with the starter relay. How can it be bad if it worked this morning, too? Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Car would'nt start, no click, nothing. Tried jumping, nothing. Bought a new battery, same problem: headlight, dashlights, heater fan all work fine, as before. But, when I turn the key, no click, no crank, nada!
Pulled the starter, cleaned it out with mineral spirits, repacked with grease (see http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/516), took it to Autozone to test...Starter tested GOOD!
Reinstalled the starter this morning...Car started up like a champ! Tested four times with no problems!...On the fifth try...Same as before! No click, no crank, no start!!!!! Clock dims alot when turning the key indicating a heavy current draw.
Checked both battery cables and sanded all connections, including the red links attached to the positive cable going to the fuse box...Cable looked good, no corrosion or oxidation, no breaks in insulation. Ground is solid and clean. It's got to be contact, but I've cleaned every contact point and cables are solid...
Pulled out the starter, again, took it to a different Autozone and watched the starter pass three straight times! What the heck is going on? Why does this starter keep passing the bench test?
What's left to check? It can't be the ignition switch since my car started this morning...Same goes with the starter relay. How can it be bad if it worked this morning, too? Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!
11-05-2007, 11:19 AM
#61
Try using a 4 guage wire to start the car without using the ignition.
All you need to do is connect the big thicket wire from the starter to the positive terminal of the battery and see if it starts right up without a problem. If this is the case, then it's your ignition swtich gone bad. If it's the same issue again, then it's down to the starter itself, or the battery. These two can be distinguished by a "click" for a bad starter, or a "chug-chug, don't turn anymore" being the battery.
If you starter is bad, it's not hard to replace it yourself, it's a 17mm bolt and 14mm bolt, with 12mm cap over the big thicket power wire. Starters are 130 dollars from Autozone after refund for core. Lifetime warranty.
If your ignition switch is bad, then it's a 45 minutes DIY job. dicon the battery first, remove driverside underdash panel (2-10mm bolts and bunch of clips), remove metal under-steering column metal bracket (2-12mm bolts), remove top and bottom steering column plastic covers (4 to 6 phillip screws, gotta access them from the bottom of the covers, put your head down there and look up, you'll see all the holes for the philip screws), then you'll see the ignition switch, attached to the cylinder solenoid for the key to insert. The ignition switch is placed in by 2 philip screws, the screws are kinda hard to access with regular screw drivers. So I combo'ed this here: rachet - 1/4" socket - #2 philip screw driver insert bit. Take out the ignition switch and put the new one on, reverse the removal procedures for installation. Ignition switch is 45 bucks from autozone, no core needed, 2 year warranty.
If you battery is bad, God bless you if you don't know how to find and replace your battery.
Hope my rundown helps.
-Peter-
All you need to do is connect the big thicket wire from the starter to the positive terminal of the battery and see if it starts right up without a problem. If this is the case, then it's your ignition swtich gone bad. If it's the same issue again, then it's down to the starter itself, or the battery. These two can be distinguished by a "click" for a bad starter, or a "chug-chug, don't turn anymore" being the battery.
If you starter is bad, it's not hard to replace it yourself, it's a 17mm bolt and 14mm bolt, with 12mm cap over the big thicket power wire. Starters are 130 dollars from Autozone after refund for core. Lifetime warranty.
If your ignition switch is bad, then it's a 45 minutes DIY job. dicon the battery first, remove driverside underdash panel (2-10mm bolts and bunch of clips), remove metal under-steering column metal bracket (2-12mm bolts), remove top and bottom steering column plastic covers (4 to 6 phillip screws, gotta access them from the bottom of the covers, put your head down there and look up, you'll see all the holes for the philip screws), then you'll see the ignition switch, attached to the cylinder solenoid for the key to insert. The ignition switch is placed in by 2 philip screws, the screws are kinda hard to access with regular screw drivers. So I combo'ed this here: rachet - 1/4" socket - #2 philip screw driver insert bit. Take out the ignition switch and put the new one on, reverse the removal procedures for installation. Ignition switch is 45 bucks from autozone, no core needed, 2 year warranty.
If you battery is bad, God bless you if you don't know how to find and replace your battery.
Hope my rundown helps.
-Peter-
11-05-2007, 01:47 PM
#63
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 704
I've been having the same problem for months now. I've replaced the battery, starter, ignition switch, swapped wiper and starter relays, cleaned the battery-to-body ground, pulled off and cleaned the grounding bracket on the engine, and added a ground cable from the starter to the battery. I'm starting to run out of things to try.
I've found, though, that it will always eventually start. Sometimes it takes 10-15 key turns, but it hasn't stranded me yet. Could happen any time, though.
Even though I've replaced the starter, it was a Kragen rebuilt, so I'm a little suspicious. I'm been thinking about testing the voltage at the starter by running a test wire from the starter and the engine ground into the passenger compartment, so I can check the voltage when it doesn't start. (Since it's intermittent, I can't count on it not starting when I have it home and can get it apart to get a VOM in there.) I'll probably have to either wire it on, or get some strong alligator clips and hope they don't fall off. Has anyone ever done that? Any suggestions?
I've found, though, that it will always eventually start. Sometimes it takes 10-15 key turns, but it hasn't stranded me yet. Could happen any time, though.
Even though I've replaced the starter, it was a Kragen rebuilt, so I'm a little suspicious. I'm been thinking about testing the voltage at the starter by running a test wire from the starter and the engine ground into the passenger compartment, so I can check the voltage when it doesn't start. (Since it's intermittent, I can't count on it not starting when I have it home and can get it apart to get a VOM in there.) I'll probably have to either wire it on, or get some strong alligator clips and hope they don't fall off. Has anyone ever done that? Any suggestions?
11-05-2007, 01:55 PM
#64
For all of you who replaced ignition switch and starter and the results are the same, meaning: turn key, "click", but no start. I'm more than 80% sure that your ignition cylinder has worn down badly. I've encountered that problem before, too. Replacing just about everything there is to replace in the charging and starting system, I ended up replacing the whole ignition package that is bolted on the steering column.
To replace that pile of mess, I remember that you'd have to drill out the two bolts that holds the ignition switch/cylinder onto the steering shaft. After those come off, then you can replace the whole thing directly by bolting the new one onto the same shaft. Replacing this whole mess means you'd need a brand new igntion switch/cylinder with possibly a new key made for that system. Thus you'll end up with different keys to start the car. It didn't bother me to carry an extra key around, though. But that did solve the problem, however.
If this can't help yall, I'm done juicing my brain for ya.
-Peter-
To replace that pile of mess, I remember that you'd have to drill out the two bolts that holds the ignition switch/cylinder onto the steering shaft. After those come off, then you can replace the whole thing directly by bolting the new one onto the same shaft. Replacing this whole mess means you'd need a brand new igntion switch/cylinder with possibly a new key made for that system. Thus you'll end up with different keys to start the car. It didn't bother me to carry an extra key around, though. But that did solve the problem, however.
If this can't help yall, I'm done juicing my brain for ya.
-Peter-
11-05-2007, 02:38 PM
#65
Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 51
about to murder my car already
yeah same problem here to man.my car wont start...Im pretty sure the the red harness on the positive terminal is destroyed with Corrosion..I replaced my starter and when I went to start it..It started up fine..but my friend that was with me looked at the cable and the red harness was smoking so i shut off the car and I looked and moved the cable cleaned it and all that good stuff..Went to start it and nothing .didnt try to crank.just the click..so I got frustrated and gave up for the night..So the next morning my dad was trying to start it and I was messing with the positive cable and it started up once when I moved the cable a certain way..Today I cleaned everything that needed to clean and sand paper..still nothing..so I went on a search on google and I came across This website http://www.samscars.com/mage9.html and they replaced this persons Subharness with a universal terminal..Does anyone know what I have to do to do the same thing with mine..Cause No shop could do it for me and its hard to find this harness used and need my car to drive to my college..
Pics from website
Corrosion
After it was repaired
Any help would great thanks!
Pics from website
Corrosion
After it was repaired
Any help would great thanks!
11-05-2007, 03:43 PM
#66
1st Class MECP Installer
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Madtown, Wi
Posts: 14
If you want to check to see if it is the key cylinder, take the cover off by the drivers knee. There are 2 phillips screws and it will pull off. You don't knee to but I would the also remove the metal brace that was below it secured with 2 10mil Bolts. There will be a wire harness there that will have your ignition wires in it. They are pretty big and change colors at a white plug. The wire you want to test is black w/yellow stripe that is leading to the switch. It should show +12v when metering it with the key in the crank position. If it doesn't, I would guess that the cylinder has started to die out. A cheap fix is a push button.
11-06-2007, 04:01 PM
#68
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,012
I could simply use some jumper cables as my '4 guage wire' to start the car? Couldn't I?
Is there an online Hayne's manual? maybe something in pdf format?
Is there an online Hayne's manual? maybe something in pdf format?
Try using a 4 guage wire to start the car without using the ignition.
All you need to do is connect the big thicket wire from the starter to the positive terminal of the battery and see if it starts right up without a problem. If this is the case, then it's your ignition swtich gone bad. If it's the same issue again, then it's down to the starter itself, or the battery. These two can be distinguished by a "click" for a bad starter, or a "chug-chug, don't turn anymore" being the battery.
If you starter is bad, it's not hard to replace it yourself, it's a 17mm bolt and 14mm bolt, with 12mm cap over the big thicket power wire. Starters are 130 dollars from Autozone after refund for core. Lifetime warranty.
If your ignition switch is bad, then it's a 45 minutes DIY job. dicon the battery first, remove driverside underdash panel (2-10mm bolts and bunch of clips), remove metal under-steering column metal bracket (2-12mm bolts), remove top and bottom steering column plastic covers (4 to 6 phillip screws, gotta access them from the bottom of the covers, put your head down there and look up, you'll see all the holes for the philip screws), then you'll see the ignition switch, attached to the cylinder solenoid for the key to insert. The ignition switch is placed in by 2 philip screws, the screws are kinda hard to access with regular screw drivers. So I combo'ed this here: rachet - 1/4" socket - #2 philip screw driver insert bit. Take out the ignition switch and put the new one on, reverse the removal procedures for installation. Ignition switch is 45 bucks from autozone, no core needed, 2 year warranty.
If you battery is bad, God bless you if you don't know how to find and replace your battery.
Hope my rundown helps.
-Peter-
All you need to do is connect the big thicket wire from the starter to the positive terminal of the battery and see if it starts right up without a problem. If this is the case, then it's your ignition swtich gone bad. If it's the same issue again, then it's down to the starter itself, or the battery. These two can be distinguished by a "click" for a bad starter, or a "chug-chug, don't turn anymore" being the battery.
If you starter is bad, it's not hard to replace it yourself, it's a 17mm bolt and 14mm bolt, with 12mm cap over the big thicket power wire. Starters are 130 dollars from Autozone after refund for core. Lifetime warranty.
If your ignition switch is bad, then it's a 45 minutes DIY job. dicon the battery first, remove driverside underdash panel (2-10mm bolts and bunch of clips), remove metal under-steering column metal bracket (2-12mm bolts), remove top and bottom steering column plastic covers (4 to 6 phillip screws, gotta access them from the bottom of the covers, put your head down there and look up, you'll see all the holes for the philip screws), then you'll see the ignition switch, attached to the cylinder solenoid for the key to insert. The ignition switch is placed in by 2 philip screws, the screws are kinda hard to access with regular screw drivers. So I combo'ed this here: rachet - 1/4" socket - #2 philip screw driver insert bit. Take out the ignition switch and put the new one on, reverse the removal procedures for installation. Ignition switch is 45 bucks from autozone, no core needed, 2 year warranty.
If you battery is bad, God bless you if you don't know how to find and replace your battery.
Hope my rundown helps.
-Peter-
11-06-2007, 06:42 PM
#69
Try using a 4 guage wire to start the car without using the ignition.
All you need to do is connect the big thicket wire from the starter to the positive terminal of the battery and see if it starts right up without a problem. If this is the case, then it's your ignition swtich gone bad. If it's the same issue again, then it's down to the starter itself, or the battery. These two can be distinguished by a "click" for a bad starter, or a "chug-chug, don't turn anymore" being the battery.
If you starter is bad, it's not hard to replace it yourself, it's a 17mm bolt and 14mm bolt, with 12mm cap over the big thicket power wire. Starters are 130 dollars from Autozone after refund for core. Lifetime warranty.
If your ignition switch is bad, then it's a 45 minutes DIY job. dicon the battery first, remove driverside underdash panel (2-10mm bolts and bunch of clips), remove metal under-steering column metal bracket (2-12mm bolts), remove top and bottom steering column plastic covers (4 to 6 phillip screws, gotta access them from the bottom of the covers, put your head down there and look up, you'll see all the holes for the philip screws), then you'll see the ignition switch, attached to the cylinder solenoid for the key to insert. The ignition switch is placed in by 2 philip screws, the screws are kinda hard to access with regular screw drivers. So I combo'ed this here: rachet - 1/4" socket - #2 philip screw driver insert bit. Take out the ignition switch and put the new one on, reverse the removal procedures for installation. Ignition switch is 45 bucks from autozone, no core needed, 2 year warranty.
If you battery is bad, God bless you if you don't know how to find and replace your battery.
Hope my rundown helps.
-Peter-
All you need to do is connect the big thicket wire from the starter to the positive terminal of the battery and see if it starts right up without a problem. If this is the case, then it's your ignition swtich gone bad. If it's the same issue again, then it's down to the starter itself, or the battery. These two can be distinguished by a "click" for a bad starter, or a "chug-chug, don't turn anymore" being the battery.
If you starter is bad, it's not hard to replace it yourself, it's a 17mm bolt and 14mm bolt, with 12mm cap over the big thicket power wire. Starters are 130 dollars from Autozone after refund for core. Lifetime warranty.
If your ignition switch is bad, then it's a 45 minutes DIY job. dicon the battery first, remove driverside underdash panel (2-10mm bolts and bunch of clips), remove metal under-steering column metal bracket (2-12mm bolts), remove top and bottom steering column plastic covers (4 to 6 phillip screws, gotta access them from the bottom of the covers, put your head down there and look up, you'll see all the holes for the philip screws), then you'll see the ignition switch, attached to the cylinder solenoid for the key to insert. The ignition switch is placed in by 2 philip screws, the screws are kinda hard to access with regular screw drivers. So I combo'ed this here: rachet - 1/4" socket - #2 philip screw driver insert bit. Take out the ignition switch and put the new one on, reverse the removal procedures for installation. Ignition switch is 45 bucks from autozone, no core needed, 2 year warranty.
If you battery is bad, God bless you if you don't know how to find and replace your battery.
Hope my rundown helps.
-Peter-
This is a great idea in theory, but doesn't work on the max. Maybe an old chevy or something...
and even still, if there is a poor ground on the tranny/starter, you can give it all the + power you want, it wont do any good.
The "conventional theory" and "electron theory"(FACTUAL THEORY) of current flow will teach all of you a hell of a lot, I suggest you take the time to Google them both. That knowledge will have you adding grounds before assuming ANY other culprit.
Also, PLEASE MOD, we need a sticky on this, its getting ridiculous.
11-06-2007, 10:04 PM
#70
This is a great idea in theory, but doesn't work on the max. Maybe an old chevy or something...
and even still, if there is a poor ground on the tranny/starter, you can give it all the + power you want, it wont do any good.
The "conventional theory" and "electron theory"(FACTUAL THEORY) of current flow will teach all of you a hell of a lot, I suggest you take the time to Google them both. That knowledge will have you adding grounds before assuming ANY other culprit.
Also, PLEASE MOD, we need a sticky on this, its getting ridiculous.
and even still, if there is a poor ground on the tranny/starter, you can give it all the + power you want, it wont do any good.
The "conventional theory" and "electron theory"(FACTUAL THEORY) of current flow will teach all of you a hell of a lot, I suggest you take the time to Google them both. That knowledge will have you adding grounds before assuming ANY other culprit.
Also, PLEASE MOD, we need a sticky on this, its getting ridiculous.
-Peter-
11-06-2007, 10:07 PM
#71
I wouldn't play with electricity unless I can control it. Jumper cable would be too dangerous.
-Peter-
11-07-2007, 12:32 AM
#72
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,012
Major update: hopefully this helps many peeps
My process thus far:
A. I've gone ahead and 'cleaned up' every connection in the engine bay. Plenty of steel wool or sandpaper to go around. I'm confident that i don't have a poor ground or connection at least from the battery to the starter.
B. I confirmed this a few hours ago, but please let me correct my procedure if necessary. 1. I took my newly purchased "Voltmeter" and took a reading from the battery terminal to negative terminal. 2. with that as my base case, I took a reading from the starter (where the battery cable connects. Good connection, no dip in power levels. 3. I had a buddy try and start the car while i kept the voltmeter on the starter to see if there was a 'boost' or 'drop' in power... it remained constant. is that correct?
C. Will someone please describe the correct name for what i have labeled A and B and C in the picture.
D. I believe my starter is fine (i still have no proof though..) and rather its an electrical issue, perhaps something in the ignition. Many posts in the last few days have shed additional light on this issue and potential fixes.
I also have a video of me trying to start the car. This was about 3 weeks ago and its the last time the starter made any notion it was going to 'turn over' instead of an electrical click i have now. Note--the last time we try and start the car, it makes no sound except the click... that continues until tonight.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...50552160&hl=en
Next steps:
1. feedback from the board for a dirty car
2. any input is welcomed!
Let me know if you need additional details.
A. I've gone ahead and 'cleaned up' every connection in the engine bay. Plenty of steel wool or sandpaper to go around. I'm confident that i don't have a poor ground or connection at least from the battery to the starter.
B. I confirmed this a few hours ago, but please let me correct my procedure if necessary. 1. I took my newly purchased "Voltmeter" and took a reading from the battery terminal to negative terminal. 2. with that as my base case, I took a reading from the starter (where the battery cable connects. Good connection, no dip in power levels. 3. I had a buddy try and start the car while i kept the voltmeter on the starter to see if there was a 'boost' or 'drop' in power... it remained constant. is that correct?
C. Will someone please describe the correct name for what i have labeled A and B and C in the picture.
D. I believe my starter is fine (i still have no proof though..) and rather its an electrical issue, perhaps something in the ignition. Many posts in the last few days have shed additional light on this issue and potential fixes.
I also have a video of me trying to start the car. This was about 3 weeks ago and its the last time the starter made any notion it was going to 'turn over' instead of an electrical click i have now. Note--the last time we try and start the car, it makes no sound except the click... that continues until tonight.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...50552160&hl=en
Next steps:
1. feedback from the board for a dirty car
2. any input is welcomed!
Let me know if you need additional details.
11-07-2007, 04:22 AM
#73
I'm not sure if I'd understand what you're saying here. But I forgot to state for manual start procedures that you must put the key in the "on" position, then connect the power to the starter motor, it'll turn and start for sure, I've done it many times during my 3.5 swap about a year ago.
-Peter-
-Peter-
MAXIMA MAN :
I also have a video of me trying to start the car. This was about 3 weeks ago and its the last time the starter made any notion it was going to 'turn over' instead of an electrical click i have now. Note--the last time we try and start the car, it makes no sound except the click... that continues until tonight.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...50552160&hl=en
I also have a video of me trying to start the car. This was about 3 weeks ago and its the last time the starter made any notion it was going to 'turn over' instead of an electrical click i have now. Note--the last time we try and start the car, it makes no sound except the click... that continues until tonight.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...50552160&hl=en
^^that sounds like a starter 80-100%, sounds like the pinion/armature was jamming and now its not doing anything.
Take it off the car, its a 14mm and a 17 mm for the starter bolts, and unplug the trigger wire, it has a harness about 8" away from the solonoid. Take it in to Advance auto/partsource, etc, and test it. (you can also test it in the driveway [still remove it first] by attatching a good set of jumper cables to a 'known' good battery, and attatching the positive to your trigger wire for the starter, and the negative to one of the 2 holes for the bolts. If it winds up, its good, if not, its junk.)
your pic :
A - Starter solonoid
B - Starter motor
C - Trigger wire (start signal wire that activates the starter)
Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; 11-07-2007 at 04:27 AM.
11-07-2007, 06:32 AM
#74
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Clifton,NJ
Posts: 98
Dude,
First of all, the "A" in your pic is the starter solenoid, the "B in your pic is the actual starter, "C" wire, I think its from the ignition switch/starter relay circuit and energizes the coil, I'm not 100% sure on this, someone else please confirm this?
Secondly, how did you add the redline notes to your photos? What program did you use and what option? I have some to post in the near future and it would be great to add those. thanks. vince
First of all, the "A" in your pic is the starter solenoid, the "B in your pic is the actual starter, "C" wire, I think its from the ignition switch/starter relay circuit and energizes the coil, I'm not 100% sure on this, someone else please confirm this?
Secondly, how did you add the redline notes to your photos? What program did you use and what option? I have some to post in the near future and it would be great to add those. thanks. vince
My process thus far:
A. I've gone ahead and 'cleaned up' every connection in the engine bay. Plenty of steel wool or sandpaper to go around. I'm confident that i don't have a poor ground or connection at least from the battery to the starter.
B. I confirmed this a few hours ago, but please let me correct my procedure if necessary. 1. I took my newly purchased "Voltmeter" and took a reading from the battery terminal to negative terminal. 2. with that as my base case, I took a reading from the starter (where the battery cable connects. Good connection, no dip in power levels. 3. I had a buddy try and start the car while i kept the voltmeter on the starter to see if there was a 'boost' or 'drop' in power... it remained constant. is that correct?
C. Will someone please describe the correct name for what i have labeled A and B and C in the picture.
D. I believe my starter is fine (i still have no proof though..) and rather its an electrical issue, perhaps something in the ignition. Many posts in the last few days have shed additional light on this issue and potential fixes.
I also have a video of me trying to start the car. This was about 3 weeks ago and its the last time the starter made any notion it was going to 'turn over' instead of an electrical click i have now. Note--the last time we try and start the car, it makes no sound except the click... that continues until tonight.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...50552160&hl=en
Next steps:
1. feedback from the board for a dirty car
2. any input is welcomed!
Let me know if you need additional details.
A. I've gone ahead and 'cleaned up' every connection in the engine bay. Plenty of steel wool or sandpaper to go around. I'm confident that i don't have a poor ground or connection at least from the battery to the starter.
B. I confirmed this a few hours ago, but please let me correct my procedure if necessary. 1. I took my newly purchased "Voltmeter" and took a reading from the battery terminal to negative terminal. 2. with that as my base case, I took a reading from the starter (where the battery cable connects. Good connection, no dip in power levels. 3. I had a buddy try and start the car while i kept the voltmeter on the starter to see if there was a 'boost' or 'drop' in power... it remained constant. is that correct?
C. Will someone please describe the correct name for what i have labeled A and B and C in the picture.
D. I believe my starter is fine (i still have no proof though..) and rather its an electrical issue, perhaps something in the ignition. Many posts in the last few days have shed additional light on this issue and potential fixes.
I also have a video of me trying to start the car. This was about 3 weeks ago and its the last time the starter made any notion it was going to 'turn over' instead of an electrical click i have now. Note--the last time we try and start the car, it makes no sound except the click... that continues until tonight.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...50552160&hl=en
Next steps:
1. feedback from the board for a dirty car
2. any input is welcomed!
Let me know if you need additional details.
Last edited by scooby68; 11-07-2007 at 06:40 AM. Reason: add
11-07-2007, 08:14 AM
#76
11-07-2007, 09:23 AM
#78
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
My process thus far:
A. I've gone ahead and 'cleaned up' every connection in the engine bay. Plenty of steel wool or sandpaper to go around. I'm confident that i don't have a poor ground or connection at least from the battery to the starter.
B. I confirmed this a few hours ago, but please let me correct my procedure if necessary. 1. I took my newly purchased "Voltmeter" and took a reading from the battery terminal to negative terminal. 2. with that as my base case, I took a reading from the starter (where the battery cable connects. Good connection, no dip in power levels. 3. I had a buddy try and start the car while i kept the voltmeter on the starter to see if there was a 'boost' or 'drop' in power... it remained constant. is that correct?
C. Will someone please describe the correct name for what i have labeled A and B and C in the picture.
D. I believe my starter is fine (i still have no proof though..) and rather its an electrical issue, perhaps something in the ignition. Many posts in the last few days have shed additional light on this issue and potential fixes.
I also have a video of me trying to start the car. This was about 3 weeks ago and its the last time the starter made any notion it was going to 'turn over' instead of an electrical click i have now. Note--the last time we try and start the car, it makes no sound except the click... that continues until tonight.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...50552160&hl=en
Next steps:
1. feedback from the board for a dirty car
2. any input is welcomed!
Let me know if you need additional details.
A. I've gone ahead and 'cleaned up' every connection in the engine bay. Plenty of steel wool or sandpaper to go around. I'm confident that i don't have a poor ground or connection at least from the battery to the starter.
B. I confirmed this a few hours ago, but please let me correct my procedure if necessary. 1. I took my newly purchased "Voltmeter" and took a reading from the battery terminal to negative terminal. 2. with that as my base case, I took a reading from the starter (where the battery cable connects. Good connection, no dip in power levels. 3. I had a buddy try and start the car while i kept the voltmeter on the starter to see if there was a 'boost' or 'drop' in power... it remained constant. is that correct?
C. Will someone please describe the correct name for what i have labeled A and B and C in the picture.
D. I believe my starter is fine (i still have no proof though..) and rather its an electrical issue, perhaps something in the ignition. Many posts in the last few days have shed additional light on this issue and potential fixes.
I also have a video of me trying to start the car. This was about 3 weeks ago and its the last time the starter made any notion it was going to 'turn over' instead of an electrical click i have now. Note--the last time we try and start the car, it makes no sound except the click... that continues until tonight.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...50552160&hl=en
Next steps:
1. feedback from the board for a dirty car
2. any input is welcomed!
Let me know if you need additional details.
Try using a 4 guage wire to start the car without using the ignition.
All you need to do is connect the big thicket wire from the starter to the positive terminal of the battery and see if it starts right up without a problem. If this is the case, then it's your ignition swtich gone bad. If it's the same issue again, then it's down to the starter itself, or the battery. These two can be distinguished by a "click" for a bad starter, or a "chug-chug, don't turn anymore" being the battery.
All you need to do is connect the big thicket wire from the starter to the positive terminal of the battery and see if it starts right up without a problem. If this is the case, then it's your ignition swtich gone bad. If it's the same issue again, then it's down to the starter itself, or the battery. These two can be distinguished by a "click" for a bad starter, or a "chug-chug, don't turn anymore" being the battery.
11-07-2007, 10:49 AM
#80
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,012