Mevi help..again!!
10-28-2007, 09:34 PM
#41
So i re-did it all. Even re did the wiring, which i wanted to do all along, the line going from the vac can to the control solenoid is maybe 3" long while the hose going from the control solenoid to the mevi actuator is 3" long too. I am at a loss of what it could be. I want to buy a supercharger kit for the maxi, but if i cant figure out the mevi..theres no way in hell im even going to attempt the supercharger. All the wiring is re-done, power for the control solenoid + rpm switch is coming straight from the battery with a 15amp inline fuse. All connections heat shrinked and so on, looks real nice too bad it doesnt work 
K so i got a few questions, if someone could chime in that would be great:
1. The check valve goes on the line that is T'd off the manifold correct? so the vacuum source coming from the manifold going to the input on the vac can it goes in between there right?
2. could someone do me a favour or answer this question for me, i hooked up the line straight from my manifold to my mevi actuator and it opened fully at idle, but once you rev it up it would close, but once idle hit it would open again. that is correct right?
3. on my control solenoid the breather port..should i be able feel vacuum through there all the time? I dont know something just doesnt seem right about that..even at idle i can hear a vac leak..initially i had no clue what it was, but it turns out it was the breather on the control solenoid i could hear.
thanks so much guys!
K so i got a few questions, if someone could chime in that would be great:
1. The check valve goes on the line that is T'd off the manifold correct? so the vacuum source coming from the manifold going to the input on the vac can it goes in between there right?
2. could someone do me a favour or answer this question for me, i hooked up the line straight from my manifold to my mevi actuator and it opened fully at idle, but once you rev it up it would close, but once idle hit it would open again. that is correct right?
3. on my control solenoid the breather port..should i be able feel vacuum through there all the time? I dont know something just doesnt seem right about that..even at idle i can hear a vac leak..initially i had no clue what it was, but it turns out it was the breather on the control solenoid i could hear.
thanks so much guys!
Last edited by 96blkonblkse; 10-28-2007 at 09:53 PM.
10-28-2007, 09:42 PM
#42
Have you tried posting in the all motor section of this site? The people in there very knowledgeable. I wish I was better able to help, but I went with the 00vi over the mevi. I'm hoping that you can get this sorted out soon so I'd have some more good reading material in the WB forum 
Nice run there with the alti even though you're handicapped. Keep it up 
Nice run there with the alti even though you're handicapped. Keep it up
10-28-2007, 10:51 PM
#43
Yeah, i hate cross posting, but i know some of those all motor guys dont check the 4th gen forum, so perhaps ill try that.
here is the situation:
i re-wired everything, except the tach signal wire, i dont think that is the problem i am pretty sure it is vacuum related.
here is one thing i should note a few things. I think my EGR gasket might be leaking a bit..i didnt order a new one i figured it would be fine..being a metal gasket..well it got a bit damaged during the install process, but i figured it was okay, the car idles fine so i dont know if it is a concern. The other thing is my evap canister control purge valve is broken..now i dont know if this would have any affect on it at all, but i thought id post this up just in case.
This really sucks..the mevi opens about as fast as it should now, but its just not opening at full throttle..i dont know if i explained it before but say even if i slowly rev it to activation point, it opens, if i hold it there it stays open, now if i rev it fast while still holding it past the activation point it closes..
hopefully that bit of information will shed some light?
thanks!!
here is the situation:
i re-wired everything, except the tach signal wire, i dont think that is the problem i am pretty sure it is vacuum related.
here is one thing i should note a few things. I think my EGR gasket might be leaking a bit..i didnt order a new one i figured it would be fine..being a metal gasket..well it got a bit damaged during the install process, but i figured it was okay, the car idles fine so i dont know if it is a concern. The other thing is my evap canister control purge valve is broken..now i dont know if this would have any affect on it at all, but i thought id post this up just in case.
This really sucks..the mevi opens about as fast as it should now, but its just not opening at full throttle..i dont know if i explained it before but say even if i slowly rev it to activation point, it opens, if i hold it there it stays open, now if i rev it fast while still holding it past the activation point it closes..
hopefully that bit of information will shed some light?
thanks!!
10-29-2007, 11:55 AM
#44
Try and see if courtesy nissan will send you just the actuator....I have the same set up but I am having no problems....I am still leaning towards your actuator being bad and not holding the vacuum like it should....otherwise I am now out of ideas as to what it could be....
10-29-2007, 01:37 PM
#45
alright guys i think i just figured out the problem..i hooked up a vacuum pump..hand operated one and tried to see hwo much vacuum it was taking to open it..well i start pumping and it gets to about 5 in.hg then just drops to zero, at this time i can hear a vacuum leak..i take off the mevi cover and it is obvious now that the mevi must have been damaged during shipping..the nipple was like crushed to the side and there was a crack god damn this sucks..i dont think you can replace that either, i took off the 2 10mm bolts and i dont know how to get the arm off without possibly breaking something else. I will try courtesy nissan, but im going to try some JB weld..if that doesnt hold it then i guess im out trying to see if courtesy will sell me just the actuator arm..if not i guess im off finding another mevi
Mazzivart you were right! Well on the right track, i really appreciate all the help man!!
god damn this sucks..i dont think you can replace that either, i took off the 2 10mm bolts and i dont know how to get the arm off without possibly breaking something else. I will try courtesy nissan, but im going to try some JB weld..if that doesnt hold it then i guess im out trying to see if courtesy will sell me just the actuator arm..if not i guess im off finding another mevi Mazzivart you were right! Well on the right track, i really appreciate all the help man!!
10-29-2007, 01:53 PM
#47
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 3
MEVI question and Supercharger Kit question.
Does anyone know where I can get a MEVI for my 98 max? Does anyone know where I can find a supercharger kit of some sort for my max. I kno that Stillen discontinued theirs but does anyone know where I can get one or does anyone want to sell me one? I need more HP!!!
10-29-2007, 01:57 PM
#48
2. 4th gen classifieds.
10-29-2007, 03:34 PM
#49
Yeah man it FREAKIN SUCKS!! Well heres the good..better news.
i didnt take any pics..to frustrated, last night it wasnt opening at all, i thought maybe the RPM switch wasnt activating at 100% throttle, so i went to a parking lot, too loud to start boucning it off the rev limiter at my parents house lol. opened up the rpm switch cover, and started revving it, well to my suprise..the mevi was opening perhaps 3/8th of the way at full throttle..which is a far improvement then before!
Only reason i can think it is doing this now, is, i bent the nipple back to center it, maybe i kinda re-sealed it, after that i went to my local auto parts store and picked up some JB weld, mixed it up, got the actuator, cleaned it with brake cleaner, gave it a quick sand an d re-cleaned it and now im letting the JB weld set.
Before i applied the JB weld, i just put my finger over the nipple, and started moving the actuator....so much vacuum was leaking out, i decided to try something, i sprayed a bit of water + soap and i made some bubbles..it was leaking pretty bad, the only reason i can think it was still opening, was just hte shear amount of vacuum, at the control solenoid i had 25 in.hg, which is more then enough to open it (i believe 15 in.hg).
I also JB welded my stupid line that broke off my evap canister control purge valve..if it holds it holds if it doesnt then oh well lol.
I guess i have some more bad news, good in a way, i have always had wheel hop problems, more so they seemed to have died down, but recently its gotten worse..well i was doing my hot oil flush at work and one of the techs walks up and tells me my motor mount is leaking oil an i didnt look im just like w/e probably leaking off the engine..dont know why i said that cuz i dont have an oil leak there. well last night i look and im like WTF..theres oil leaking out of my front mount..i guess that would explain the wheel hop issues. Guess i need a new front mount now, im thinking of picking up a stock mount and pressing in an ES mount.
i didnt take any pics..to frustrated, last night it wasnt opening at all, i thought maybe the RPM switch wasnt activating at 100% throttle, so i went to a parking lot, too loud to start boucning it off the rev limiter at my parents house lol. opened up the rpm switch cover, and started revving it, well to my suprise..the mevi was opening perhaps 3/8th of the way at full throttle..which is a far improvement then before!
Only reason i can think it is doing this now, is, i bent the nipple back to center it, maybe i kinda re-sealed it, after that i went to my local auto parts store and picked up some JB weld, mixed it up, got the actuator, cleaned it with brake cleaner, gave it a quick sand an d re-cleaned it and now im letting the JB weld set.
Before i applied the JB weld, i just put my finger over the nipple, and started moving the actuator....so much vacuum was leaking out, i decided to try something, i sprayed a bit of water + soap and i made some bubbles..it was leaking pretty bad, the only reason i can think it was still opening, was just hte shear amount of vacuum, at the control solenoid i had 25 in.hg, which is more then enough to open it (i believe 15 in.hg).
I also JB welded my stupid line that broke off my evap canister control purge valve..if it holds it holds if it doesnt then oh well lol.
I guess i have some more bad news, good in a way, i have always had wheel hop problems, more so they seemed to have died down, but recently its gotten worse..well i was doing my hot oil flush at work and one of the techs walks up and tells me my motor mount is leaking oil an i didnt look im just like w/e probably leaking off the engine..dont know why i said that cuz i dont have an oil leak there. well last night i look and im like WTF..theres oil leaking out of my front mount..i guess that would explain the wheel hop issues. Guess i need a new front mount now, im thinking of picking up a stock mount and pressing in an ES mount.
10-29-2007, 03:54 PM
#51
LOL sometimes i think it does..sometimes i think it hates me..serioulsy..i fix one problem, and then something else comes up, its like getting kicked in the *****. Actually im making it sound really un-reliable. It was 100% reliable till i started tinkering with things..go figure eh hahah.
10-29-2007, 08:26 PM
#53
Ahhh, here is a funny story..my GF called me, tonight and shes like wow you seem like you are in a really good mood, did you fix that problem with your intake? she knows me better then i thought hahah.
so i went a little over and above, i JB welded the actuator where it was leaking, and sprayed it a nice silver, it was a little rusty, and not zinc coated anymore, my EGR gasket was toast, i could hear a vacuum leak from that area, i figured it was that, that got mangeled while i was putting it back on, cleaned my IACV(properly), and secured my sub box down.
All i could do in my garage was a quick rev to 5000rpm to see if it opens the same, and damn it opened up the way it should, immediately i was happy, i couldnt go WOT in my garage or my mom would complain lol. So i take it out, once i turn off my street i hit it, pulled nicely to ~5400rpm then oh my god..it pulls INSANELY hard to about 7000rpm, where it sorta tapers off, not nearly as bad as the USIM though.
Its funny because with the USIM if i hit it in first at wot, the wheels would start squealing, but the car didnt have enough power to keep them spinning, now i hit it in first , they tires start squealing then once i get to about 5500rpm the car just starts boucning off the rev limiter hahha, it feels soo good. The other thing i noticed is with the USIM or when the mevi wasnt opening i couldnt rev higher then 7196 and thats with it bouncing off the rev limiter, with the mevi tied open i got to 7207 or somthin, with the mevi functioning i was able to get 7337!! If that says anything, obviously that shows how much better the mevi can breathe up top compared to the usim/non functioning mevi. the other thing is the air flow % for those with the SAFC2, with the mevi not opening i couldnt get any higher then 51%, sometimes i couldnt even break 50%, with the mevi functioning/tied open i am able to hit 60.8%, and a few times ive hit 63.1%.
I am still going to be on the lookout for another mevi actuator, i would feel better with a proper non semi ghettto rigged one lol.
Again i would like to thank mazzivart for all the help..if it wasnt for you, i probably would have given up on this thing. and to the rest, i thank you, and there will be PLENTY more weekend battle posts by me
so i went a little over and above, i JB welded the actuator where it was leaking, and sprayed it a nice silver, it was a little rusty, and not zinc coated anymore, my EGR gasket was toast, i could hear a vacuum leak from that area, i figured it was that, that got mangeled while i was putting it back on, cleaned my IACV(properly), and secured my sub box down.
All i could do in my garage was a quick rev to 5000rpm to see if it opens the same, and damn it opened up the way it should, immediately i was happy, i couldnt go WOT in my garage or my mom would complain lol. So i take it out, once i turn off my street i hit it, pulled nicely to ~5400rpm then oh my god..it pulls INSANELY hard to about 7000rpm, where it sorta tapers off, not nearly as bad as the USIM though.
Its funny because with the USIM if i hit it in first at wot, the wheels would start squealing, but the car didnt have enough power to keep them spinning, now i hit it in first , they tires start squealing then once i get to about 5500rpm the car just starts boucning off the rev limiter hahha, it feels soo good. The other thing i noticed is with the USIM or when the mevi wasnt opening i couldnt rev higher then 7196 and thats with it bouncing off the rev limiter, with the mevi tied open i got to 7207 or somthin, with the mevi functioning i was able to get 7337!! If that says anything, obviously that shows how much better the mevi can breathe up top compared to the usim/non functioning mevi. the other thing is the air flow % for those with the SAFC2, with the mevi not opening i couldnt get any higher then 51%, sometimes i couldnt even break 50%, with the mevi functioning/tied open i am able to hit 60.8%, and a few times ive hit 63.1%.
I am still going to be on the lookout for another mevi actuator, i would feel better with a proper non semi ghettto rigged one lol.
Again i would like to thank mazzivart for all the help..if it wasnt for you, i probably would have given up on this thing. and to the rest, i thank you, and there will be PLENTY more weekend battle posts by me
10-30-2007, 11:55 AM
#54
Well Im glad I could help you out bro....
EU is still on the way so Im not running a JWT but its still fun as hell to drive....
Now get your as's out there and spank some more cars.
EU is still on the way so Im not running a JWT but its still fun as hell to drive....
Now get your as's out there and spank some more cars.
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