Hey guys, my car won't start but all the electronics along with the headlights and everything will power on perfect. But when i try to turn over nothing zip nada.

Alternator issue maybe? I just replaced the battery two months ago, i just replaced the started 6 months ago.

Any advice would be great. Thanks.

 

It could be bad fuse or alternator.

 

Does it click, lights dim, or just do absolutely nothing? If you jiggle the key will it start? How about if you hit the starter solenoid?

 

So no turn over? No sounds at all when you attempt to start? Sounds like a starter problem, I had the same issue a few weeks ago. Brand new battery, but when I turn the igition nothing. Replaced the starter and it was good to go.

 

I know on my 5 spd that I have a clutch interlock to engage starter. Do the automatics have the "you must have your foot on the brake interlock"? If so, it may need a couple turns to adjust it back into range. In thinking back further,

I had the same issue a second time and I installed a new igntion key switch, which was pretty easy if you figure it to be the same issue. I could futz with the key at the end of its turn in the "Start" position and get it to hiccup intermittantly at first, but then it went south and didn't do squat until I replaced it. FInd it below if you diagnose the same.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...-p-132324.html

 

Nope, just a P/N sensor.

 

everyting works, the headlights, interior lights, radio works fine, i went to walmart to check the battery and the battery is good. Now i'm going more towards the alternator. Because this happened to my old max but i never got around fixing it.

I can hear the starter click.

 

i just replaced the starter about 4 months ago, so i'm hoping it's not the starter

 

its your BATTERY.......


get a jumpstart....


/thread

 

Well you can't really jump to that conclusion, plus he had it tested. My vote goes for a bad connection or starter, research "voltage drop test" to learn more about how to diagnose the problem. Also, FTR, your lights coming on and what not means diddly, they don't draw the amount of amps that the starter does. Oh and if your battery really did test good during a load test (which checks amperage) than the problem is not your alternator.

 

I happen to work with this kinda situation everyday...in fact maybe 30 to 40 times a day....I am a dispatcher at AAA and have been for over a year....when the starter is clicking the battery is 99.9% the time the problem....we test batteries and they can test just fine and within range but the car isnt starting...vehicle is jumped and the issue is resolved...this sounds like a normal everyday needing a jump scenario....

 

Being a dispatcher doesn't mean squat. You hear about the scenario but don't actually perform the work right? About as much squat as the lights being on. I would check the terminals for corrosion (clean with baking soda and water if there is corrosion). Not to mention that a jump start is merely a band-aid, *unless someone left their lights on overnight. If the car needs a jump to start up then the battery doesn't have the juice and there has got to be a reason for it.

As for checking the battery I didn't know Wal*Mart did that. I wouldn't trust'm to do it either. And if you got the battery from Wal*mart (the trusted NEVERstart series) I would assume the battery is crap. I've never had good luck with them. In fact I had to return a battery 4 times before I got one that worked.

Sadly I have to say your starter sounds bad. But I would get the battery and alternator checked at Advance or Autozone.

Jay

 

You hate Walmart brand batteries, how do you feel about Sears' DieHard batteries?

Chances are, if the solenoid is just clicking, the batt is undercharged. If the battery is fine, make sure the harness is bolted up to the starter securely, and hit the solenoid with a hammer, or anything you can really reach down in there that you can put some force into. If it starts up after that, then solenoid or motor are on their way out, and you'll need a new starter or rebuild the old one.

 

You do know that even if a jump start solves the situation it still doesn't mean it's the battery right?

Also, most weak batteries with good connections will cause a slow cranking speed or a rapid clicking of the selenoid as opposed to a click & no crank.

 

You my friend are ignorant on what I ACTUALLY do....i communicate directly with the drivers on EVERYTHING they do....If they test the battery I know how the battery tested and what they did....I wouldnt say an architect doenst know anything about building a house because he doenst actually do the work....:stfu:


also its smart to do the easiest things and work your way up.... no use in paying money to figure out that it didnt work...

 

Depends on their state of charge.

Unless you meant good batteries with poor connnections?

 

great info, especially about tapping the starter, but I have to disagree with the one little part above.

It should read: If the battery is fine, perform a voltage drop test to properly check the connections.

 

Exactly For everyone else and mazzivart, I'll explain. If you have a poor connection between the terminal and battery, by jumpstarting you are connecting directly to the terminal wires, thereby eliminating the bad connection. Starting systems are finicky to connections because of theire high amperage, ever notice how alot of times while jumpstarting a car you have to wiggle the jumpers?

 

You're just as guilty for ignoring what I ACTUALLY do

 

Personally I love watching people get freaked out and go running when the terminals start smoking...rather than stopping what they're doing or removing the cable.

You or I may carry a DVOM in the car with us (hell, my car is a rolling toolbox), but most people won't be able to do such a thing on the side of the road, or in a parking lot. Generally speaking, not much corrosion happens on the starter side of the B+ lead, so as long as it's not loose (and even then) it should be a good connection.

 

I had the same crap happen to me 2 days ago. Everything on the dash is working, and all electrical seem to work. Changed the starter, and car turns on with no problems.

I also did not have any clicking, ticking sounds coming from the starter. Its weird that you changed your starter 4 months ago. Starters usually come with a warranty, so you may be lucky to get one at no extra charge.

However, it might be something small, so make sure before changing it.

 

Hey now leave me outta that....Im just saying jump it and if it works but the veh doesnt start again then work your way up....none of us are actually with him and the veh so we can only suggest what to do....plus if you are jumping it you will see how the corroded the wires are...but also it sound like his battery is newer so I am doubting that the connections are that bad....my battery is about 2 years old and it really isnt that bad...only a small amount of corrosion on the positive terminal....

 

But I didnt just come out and say that what you do means squat....

 

Having worked at a parts store I know that very few brands DON"T come with a warranty. At Advance and Autozone most starters come with a lifetime warranty. If you got the job done at a garage most likely they warranty the work for a few months, I'd give'm a call.



How do I feel about Sear's Diehard batteries? They are good to my knowledge. My preference lies in Optima batteries but not everyone has the money to drop on those (but they are certainly worth the money).

Jay


oh and I'm pretty sure the ignorant comment was meant for me. though of all the times I've called AAA (5-6 times over the past 7 years) I have yet to encounter a dispatcher who was helpful, seemed like they were reading off a screen. I'm not insulting you just commenting on the service. I do enjoy the service though and appreciate the help I get from the drivers.

 

There is a difference between a dispatcher and the people that take your call...I am the one behind the scenes that handles all the call needing dispatched...like right now I am dispatching for Lincoln Nebraskas AAA drivers....I have a CB radio, which is awesome, and I am telling the drivers where they are going, doing and towing to....

the people you talk to only take your info and then send it to us and I will be one of the first to say that they dont know shi*.

 

I do apologize for "being ignorant" but all in all i'm still correct that you don't actually do the work. And you don't instruct the drivers how to perform the repair. I also understand that you have a great deal of experience with diagnostics/repairs but I still am going to stand behind the fact that jump starting a vehicle solves nothing. Its a very temporary fix if it could be called a fix at all.

Jay

 

Anyway - back to the original question...

Are your battery terminals clean and tight?

Also try following the negative cable to the ground on the body and make sure that is snug.

 

im leaning toward faulty starter...

I replaced my starter about 2 months ago and i started to have starting problems exactly how you are having.. and it was a faulty starter.

Alternator doesnt affect your start..unless you drained your battery running your car then tried to start it again.

if your a 5spd park on a hill.. Problem solved

 

You just had the starter replaced 4 months ago, Worth checking and easy is, check the starter mounting bolts for tightness, if they weren't tightened well they could loosen a little after a couple months of use and a little road grime can get in, there goes your ground connection...had it happen on an older car once. Dont forget to disconnect battery before checking. Good luck. V

 

i'm thinking it's a starter because me being cheap i purchased a remanufactured one and i'm going to take it apart today and see and re-install it to see if it makes a different.

The battery terminals I clean every month, so that's not the issue,

The connectors I just changed 4 months ago when I replaced the starter,

I replaced all my fuses to be on the safe side.
-

so that puts me back in the starter mode, god i hate it, i've heard quite a few people have the same issues and it was the starter.

do 4th gen starters really go out that bad?

 

You haven't work with the Architects I work with!

Back to the post: I would suspect the starter solonoid, or the wiring to it, and check the frame ground. Are the battery terminals clean?

 

...its up to the rest of the world that keep his dream a reality...... :}. True Dat!