Ok's I hurt my car. As some know I have been using the DBM low cost theft deterrant. I put a switch that requires a key to turn on/off in line with the relay to the fuel pump. It goes on #1 and 2. I disconnected this to install a different type of switch, and very carelessly when I put it back I went with wires 1 and 3, I think. I started the car, it ran 2 seconds and put puts off, which is normal procedure if the switch is on, deactivating the fuel pump. I went right back and double checked, corrected my error, but the car still won't fire up for longer than 2 seconds. And I got a check engine light for cylinder 4 misfire.

Is it possible I just shorted out the wiring to the fuel pump? I searched for the misfire, but could someone please give me some ideas.

I reset the ECU hoping it might straighten out whatever I damaged, also tried disconnecting battery. Thanks.

 

Try undoing your switch and put everything back to normal - does it run? If so, I would suspect maybe the switch is bad or possibly you have a normally closed and need a normally open, or vice versa, switch. Good luck.

 

Somethings wrong. Theres a tow truck in my future.

 

What are the symptoms of a burnt fuel pump? My poor max is just sittin there, awaiting a big mean towtruck to drag it to the dealership, and probably F up my wheels.

 

You pretty much described it. The car will crank, but will not turn over. BTW, replacing the fuel pump is relatively easy to tell you the truth. If you are mechanically inclined you can do this yourself.

 

Hey Medicsonic, if brigboy, or anyone for that matter, replaces their fuel pump would you go with an aftermarket one as opposed to the OEM size. I understand if you get a higher shot of NOS etc...... Just curiouis. Thanks. Good luck w/ your max Brigboy.

 

Check the relays in the engine compartment.

 

The stock fuel pump can handle up to a 70 shot of NOS. If you aren't planning on goin above that, why not stick to stock?

 

I didn't know if aftermarket was better, more reliable, cheaper, etc.

 

Supposedly I fried my entire ECU, and its gonna cost me a sorona kit to replace($1100). And they say they can't guarantee the new on won't fry. They say relays have been moved in my engine bay ( the ones you move to make room for a PR CAI). They say they can't even get me the ECU till next monday.

Can't I get a ECU from a junk yard? Aren't they FOS?

Someone please make me feel a little bit better.

 

If it is in fact a correct diagnosis, then why pay $1,100 to possibly fry another one? You can find a used one at a junk yard (have production date and tranny type ready) for $100-$250.

 

Thanks, I am getting calmer.

 

I bought one for $150 before.