Rear brakes hissing after rotor replacement
#1
Rear brakes hissing after rotor replacement
I just changed out my rear rotors and now all of a sudden the brakes are hissing from the rear. They are hissing even when I don't apply the brakes so I'm pretty sure that the pads are making contact with the rotors even when the brakes are not applied. The reason why I changed the rotors in the first place was because they were warped from heat (had rotors turned with little success). I assumed that the Florida heat just got the best of me but I think there may be another reason for the over heating of the rotors. I suspect that maybe the brake calipers are binding and are not releasing properly but I'm really guessing here. Can anyone help me figure this one out? Thanks in advance. I appreciate any feedback.
#3
#7
To find out if your calipers are gripping up against the rotors try to jack the wheel up. Then try to spin the wheel and see if it spins freely and if the wheels spin freely then the calipers are good. If the wheels are gripping or are hard to move then the calipers are seizing up. It's maybe the brakes that are new they need to broken in then the should minimize the noise to none.
#8
so when you say 'hissing' I can't picture what you mean. did you use brake clean or something on the new rotors before install? If it were me, for all it takes I'd just pull them apart again, make sure everything is good, service the calipers and re-test it.
#9
I am sure he means as the hissing like a soft sanding noise like sand paper sanding down something.
#12
check your e-brake cables. if they are hanging up even a little they will drag the pads against the rotors.
also check to make sure the brake pads or the anti-sqeak liners aren't rubbing against the rotor hats.
also check to make sure the brake pads or the anti-sqeak liners aren't rubbing against the rotor hats.
#13
Mine hiss when my car is in park. If I get next to my rear tire I can hear a hissing (like an air leak). I've looked at every part of the rear suspension, brakes, lines, everything. I've come to accept it as the way my 99 is.
#15
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^^ Forgot to mention that.
Negatory. 1: The pistons could not be fully retracted (but now we know they are) 2: the notches might be mis-aligned. 3: It could be from a collapsed brake hose, VERY easy to verify (crack bleeder screw loose, if it frees up the wheel = bad brake hose not caliper). 4: If you can hear them hissing, and you tell yourself it will go away by driving & breaking them in, you will quickly glaze over your pads/rotors & possibly start a fire as well.
Rear calipers are expensive, and I've personally learned the hard way every one of the things listed above
To find out if your calipers are gripping up against the rotors try to jack the wheel up. Then try to spin the wheel and see if it spins freely and if the wheels spin freely then the calipers are good. If the wheels are gripping or are hard to move then the calipers are seizing up. It's maybe the brakes that are new they need to broken in then the should minimize the noise to none.
Rear calipers are expensive, and I've personally learned the hard way every one of the things listed above
#16
Son of a B@#ch! That might be it. I did spin the calipers back but forgot about lining up the notch with the pads. I will check again. Thanks for the great feedback everyone!
#18
You may be hearing the fuel pump, a slight exhaust leak, or the evap system (depending on which side of the car you're on).
#19
Not to be sexist (well, OK, maybe it is) but especially when a woman with kids enters the shop in need of brake work. Price automaticaly zooms up.
#20
The hissing noise your hearing from the left rear side is the evap cannister making that noise. That is located under the rear bumper.
#21
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Coming from someone who works on cars fulltime, it really pisses me off that people think brakes are automatically an inexpensive job. I'm blaming it all on stupid Midas commercials.
Awhile back I did a $900 parts & labor brake job on my cousins ranger, not only would I not rip anyone off, I definitly give family a deap discount.
Today I did brakes all the way around on a '98 max, used factory nissan pads, new rotors in the front, etc etc. It took me approximatly five hours to do them properly, and that was working quickly, in an organized garage & knowing exactly what tools I need to use before I even start. I had to deal with two bad calipers (pics of the bent one coming soon!!), 4 out of 8 frozen caliper guide pins, extremely corroded caliper brackets. You should have seen how uneven the pad wear was. But I only charged him $120 labor for all of the brake work because of the conception that you and alot of people hold.
Hey, you want me to do a pad slap with $20 pads and not bother to properly inspect/clean/replace everything? Sure, I'd love to, but don't come back to me when they only last 10k and squeek & groan.
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