Sabotage?: CV boot busted (2nd time in probably 50K miles)

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Nov 27, 2007 | 07:41 PM

#41

Apparition

Ichiban King

iTrader: (5)

Joined: Jan 2006

Posts: 2,822

From: PNW

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fr33way™

HAHAHA You need to PM man, I didn't see this until now.

PM him n00dz too, he likes it..

Nov 27, 2007 | 08:47 PM

#42

Jono98max

Member

Joined: Jun 2006

Posts: 48

From: Western Springs

Quote:

Originally Posted by JK1

Raxles are more than double than what Autozone charges - is it really worth it? Will they last more than twice as long? I have 63K miles on my '97 Maxima and the original CV boot just ripped. My guess is that whatever axle I put on the car now will outlast the remaining useful life of the vehicle. I'm inclined to use the ones from Autozone or equivalent unless someone can point out a flaw in my logic. Thanks

Also, any pointers on the installation?

i haven't heard any bad reports from raxles regarding their durability. i know that they are made better than the ones at autozone and i haven't heard the best things about the quality at autozone. i guess it all depends on how much you want to spend on your car for an axle that could possibly outlast the life of the car. for me, i just found it the best idea to go with raxles because i knew i was getting a quality product and i wasn't going to have to go back and replace the raxles for a long time.

Nov 28, 2007 | 05:27 AM

#43

Minimalmaxima

Thread Starter

Senior Member

Joined: May 2001

Posts: 514

Quote:

Originally Posted by vilmaxima

the passenger side is the one with the 3 bolts. I just changed mine a couple of weeks ago. I was able to get the 3 bolts off with a wrench after that its supposed to slide out of the bracket, for me it didnt, I ended up takin off the bracket also(while attached to axle). Im also soon gonna have to change my driver side its starting to click and has a small tear somewhere.

I could hardly get any of my tools in there. This job has become expensive for me with all the tools I've bought, and I just couldn't bear to go to the store again and pick up one of those angled ratchet deals. That's why I decided just to replace the boot without ever taking the axle out of the transmission. Good times. This job has taken me like a month.

I wonder if the gas in it is any good any more. J/k I do start it every now and then and let it run till the garage is full of CO.

Nov 29, 2007 | 05:27 AM

#44

Minimalmaxima

Thread Starter

Senior Member

Joined: May 2001

Posts: 514

Well, if anyone cares, I ended up using this clamp: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...egoryCode=3530

Beware, though, because the item description says it's 750 mm long and it was more like 375 or something, and this part is supposed to be 365 mm long and it was way under that. It would not even fit around the big side of the boot.

Also, as for the clamps that came with the boot from Nissan, I'm not sure any tool was even required at all. While I screwed up the big one, on the small one I just bent the curved part extending outward from the clamp down onto the clamp and I tapped the little arm things over it and it was pretty snug on the boot. I'll bet I could have done that for the big one, too. I just thought that you needed a tool because of what everyone was saying. If you need clarification, I'd be happy to draw you a picture of what I'm talking about. At any rate, I'm rollin' again. A freakin' month to change a CV boot.

Man that's hilarious. I had wanted to try to change the right control arm, but I'm wondering if I want to put the car down for 4 months trying to do that.

Plus, hanging around under the car on jackstands, I don't know if I'd like that. I wish I had access to a lift.

Dec 15, 2007 | 10:55 AM

#45

Minimalmaxima

Thread Starter

Senior Member

Joined: May 2001

Posts: 514

My alignment is noticeably off. Or, at least, the steerting wheel is way clockwise of center when I'm driving straight. Could it be that I really screwed up my alignment when I disconnected the steering knuckle to get to the axle? Can I just adjust that wheel back until the car drives straight? I do not want to pay 80 bux for another alignment! WWDD? (What would dealerships do?) Would they realign it when they disconnected that stuff? Or was I just not being careful and I moved something out of spec?