FSTB's for the A32 are like a dime a dozen, but finding RSTB's are like finding a picture if Bigfoot that isn't fuzzy.

Basically, the RSTB looks identical to the FSTB, except for fewer bolt holes and different length. So, why the freakin' shortage?

Now, there's a ton of tower bars for SX240, s13's and s14's, so I don't get what's the big woof about doing one for another Nissan.

The cheapest RSTB I found was on Ebay for $42 shipped.

Do you know of any others that are better and/or more reasonable in price?

 

Maybe because they really dont do that much for us......






edit* how the hell did you "relocate" your gas pedel?

 

yea, cant say they do too much, i had one and didn't notice a difference. since you've got the trunk floor and the frame around the bottom of the window gives enough support.

 

What I did way back when was buy both front and rear bars for the b14 to make a RSTB for the 4th gen. Use the bar from the front (the chrome piece only) and the brackets from the back and there you go, perfect fit. No its not ghetto or hacked either.

The 5th gen rear bar sort of fits too. The mounts are bigger on the 5th gen so only one hole lines up. I am currently running a 5th gen bar, since 04 I think. Some day I will get around to welding it to fit 100%.

 

Basically, I found that the gas pedal was uncomfortable: it was too high, too far over to the right side of the floor and, located partially behind the center console. I had to tilt my foot to reach it.

So, I took out the pedal assembly, bent the pedal arm so that now my gas pedal is level with the brake pedal and about three inches to the right of it.

If I find the pics I took of it, I'll post them to ya.

Thanks for asking.

 

How easy was it to do that?^^

I'm about to buy some new rubber pedals for all three & might want to do that...

 

Well, it does take a bench vice to hold the back end of the pedal arm stationary, and then, while facing the pedal surface, slide a long piece of iron or galvanized pipe over that end of the arm, and push it up and to the left.

BEFORE




AFTER



It came out a little bit tilted from left to right, but that position actually matches the angle of my right foot better than if it were straight up and down.

 

Paradox Systems.... $40 with free shipping when I got it 5-6 months ago.

 

If you're local, I have one, come and pick it up.
Jae

 

Hmm.. dont bag it til you try it. I'm positive it made a difference to my car. If I take it out, the back end seems to wallow around a lot more..

 

I'm on the wrong coast. What about shipping it?

 

It's an odd shape, shipping cost might be high. I will find out for you when I get home to measure and weigh. It'll likely be higher than $40 total.

Jae

 

Do they still have it at that price?

 

Just get an ebay one if all else fails. A R/FSTB is what it is. Paying $90 for a expensive one or $40 for one on ebay will yield the same result. They are all the same.

 

Spending money to add weight to your car.

 

Weight?? How bout a "serious" change in curve taking with the rear strut bar?? I'll sacrifice the weight.

 

Go on a diet?
Jae

 

+1 if youre a fatass...

stillen rstb in the trunk ftw. looks cool too

 

http://www.paradox-systems.com/produ...39458ba7b88ebb

 

I asked a friend of mine that works for TRD and i asked him about he RSTB's, he said RSTB's are more for hatchbacks and fastbacks. Sedans already have enough support. Take that money and buy a rear sway bar, you will get better results with that.

 

"Serious", huh? Sure dude.

Wanna bet pink slips using a blind test drive? I'll randomy take the bar on and off between your test drives. If you can guess correctly 10/10 times, my car is yours. But if you can't.....

 

lol.

dude its so hard to tell the difference because of the fact that the backseat mounts acts as one already. it adds to slight chassis stiffening but thats about it. doesnt help in handling at all hence the term "chassis brace." when i added my stillen bar, i couldnt tell the difference.

 

So if I take the LTBII and SFCs off of my car, it won't affect the handling at all?

 

damn you got me there. bad use of terminology.

okay rewording... they go hand in hand. reducing chassis flex lets the suspension do what its really supposed to do. so in turn it does help in the handling department. just in the rear strut bar case just not enough to feel the difference since it is pretty solid in the rear.

yeah the LTBII i felt a difference. :P mine feels like its going to fall off tho... stupid 27mm LCA nut. the damn auto tranny is too large.. no room for wrench to fit.

 

Hey, at least yours fits. I had to pay a freakin' shop to get a socket in there.

...(that's what she said)

 

the socket never really went all the way through. i can only get maybe the first 1/16th of the socket onto the nut. this weekend, im gonna try to hammer that little b1tch in there and get a ratchet on it. im using a vicegrip on the 27mm socket and its working quite well for what it is. only problem is tightening it down and also getting the damn socket to wrap around the entire nut. i REALLY dont want to drop the LCA and replace the bushings just to get this stupid nut tightened. thats more money i dont have to spend. stupid fu**in tranny!!!

 

The way I see it, it completes the "box" so to speak of the rear suspension. The two struts the beam and the RSTB form this. Kind of like having the FSTB as well as the LTB, (which I don't ) to complete the box in the front.

I would say at most I noticed some reduction in minor rattles that were in the rear, handling change would be minimal at best as the rear beam holds the rears in position for the most part. I am on 500lb. rear springs so I am not sure if these differences would even be noticed on a softer setup.

 

No. I will PM you with my shipping info.

 

For weight reduction, I removed my front strut tower brace and rear anti-sway bar. I can still take tight highway on-ramps at 50mph without squealing. If you have good suspension and tires, don't worry about the little things.

 

I agree my biggest handling improvements were going from 205 to 215 to 225 to 235s all around. On my next set of tires I will be taking clearance measurements before purchase

 

Exactly. Get some 235/45 Z-Rated 17s and you're good to go.

Why 4 different tire sizes?

Are you saying your 235's don't fit?