transmission rebuild write-up??
12-02-2007, 12:43 PM
#42
Now about the solder crush method, I am supposed to use the bearing race right? Like press it into the transmision case, then when I join the two cases together the differential itself will actually press it in even further until the solder crushes or what? Or, do I press the race in completely until it hits bottom and put the solder in between race and bearing? The reason I ask is because I wasn't sure about seating the race completely in by using the diff bearings, seemed like it would not be good for them.
12-02-2007, 02:24 PM
#43
Dave
12-02-2007, 05:13 PM
#44
well it looks like one solder crushed slightly and matched up with the two original shims, like 0.033 and the other solder was literally crushed down to like 0.017, or about a thick hair. You think should I should just only reuse the two shims and see what happens? I was told that the quaife is more dense than the stock and could expand slightly more than the stock diff when intense heat happens...so a bit less shimming is desireable, making the 0.017 like sort of an expansion zone.
12-02-2007, 11:24 PM
#45
you didn't do the solder crushing correctly if you got measurements that vary that much. there should be virtually zero variation between them, maybe .01-.02mm variation between the two pieces is what i see when i do it.
you need to make sure to place the solder such that the letters engraved on the back of the bearing race don't get crushed into the solder. hold the solder in place with some grease. after you've crushed it, you measure the thin part of the solder. the way the bearing races are shaped, part of the solder will be much thicker than the rest, you have to measure the thin, flat portion of it. then after you do the solder crush correctly, you measure the solder and add .40-.45mm to your solder thickness for the diff shim specifically.
ive never seen anything to indicate that quaifes need to be shimmed any differently than the regular differential. i shimmed mine no differently, and we do tons and tons of them at work and shim those no differently either.
you need to make sure to place the solder such that the letters engraved on the back of the bearing race don't get crushed into the solder. hold the solder in place with some grease. after you've crushed it, you measure the thin part of the solder. the way the bearing races are shaped, part of the solder will be much thicker than the rest, you have to measure the thin, flat portion of it. then after you do the solder crush correctly, you measure the solder and add .40-.45mm to your solder thickness for the diff shim specifically.
ive never seen anything to indicate that quaifes need to be shimmed any differently than the regular differential. i shimmed mine no differently, and we do tons and tons of them at work and shim those no differently either.
12-03-2007, 12:27 AM
#46
you didn't do the solder crushing correctly if you got measurements that vary that much. there should be virtually zero variation between them, maybe .01-.02mm variation between the two pieces is what i see when i do it.
you need to make sure to place the solder such that the letters engraved on the back of the bearing race don't get crushed into the solder. hold the solder in place with some grease. after you've crushed it, you measure the thin part of the solder. the way the bearing races are shaped, part of the solder will be much thicker than the rest, you have to measure the thin, flat portion of it. then after you do the solder crush correctly, you measure the solder and add .40-.45mm to your solder thickness for the diff shim specifically.
ive never seen anything to indicate that quaifes need to be shimmed any differently than the regular differential. i shimmed mine no differently, and we do tons and tons of them at work and shim those no differently either.
you need to make sure to place the solder such that the letters engraved on the back of the bearing race don't get crushed into the solder. hold the solder in place with some grease. after you've crushed it, you measure the thin part of the solder. the way the bearing races are shaped, part of the solder will be much thicker than the rest, you have to measure the thin, flat portion of it. then after you do the solder crush correctly, you measure the solder and add .40-.45mm to your solder thickness for the diff shim specifically.
ive never seen anything to indicate that quaifes need to be shimmed any differently than the regular differential. i shimmed mine no differently, and we do tons and tons of them at work and shim those no differently either.
So you saying that I should just re use the old shims then? Because there's two of them, and they were both on the driver side axle bore, there were none on the passengerr side, even after I got the race out. All said and done, the new diff has about half a millimeter of end play, is that okay for the quaife?
12-03-2007, 02:49 AM
#47
No end play. Read the FSM. You need enough shims to put a (.40-.45mm) squeeze on it. In fact all you need is the measured endplay and the FSM will tell you which shim sizes to use, part numbers and all. The reason for the endplay is to compensate for the thermal growth of the housing, so that at operating temps it's running with a tiny bit of preload. If you're going to hammer on this tranny, maybe even one shim size tighter.
You need to re-do the solder, putting it only on the end where the shims are (drivers side). In theory you could add the thicknesses of the two solder sets that you crushed but I don't think it's as accurate, and since you're a first-timer it's better to keep it simple. When you get a decent measurement, repeat the routine just to be sure. It's time well spent.
Dave
You need to re-do the solder, putting it only on the end where the shims are (drivers side). In theory you could add the thicknesses of the two solder sets that you crushed but I don't think it's as accurate, and since you're a first-timer it's better to keep it simple. When you get a decent measurement, repeat the routine just to be sure. It's time well spent.
Dave
Last edited by dgeesaman; 12-03-2007 at 02:52 AM.
12-03-2007, 01:20 PM
#48
No end play. Read the FSM. You need enough shims to put a (.40-.45mm) squeeze on it. In fact all you need is the measured endplay and the FSM will tell you which shim sizes to use, part numbers and all. The reason for the endplay is to compensate for the thermal growth of the housing, so that at operating temps it's running with a tiny bit of preload. If you're going to hammer on this tranny, maybe even one shim size tighter.
You need to re-do the solder, putting it only on the end where the shims are (drivers side). In theory you could add the thicknesses of the two solder sets that you crushed but I don't think it's as accurate, and since you're a first-timer it's better to keep it simple. When you get a decent measurement, repeat the routine just to be sure. It's time well spent.
Dave
You need to re-do the solder, putting it only on the end where the shims are (drivers side). In theory you could add the thicknesses of the two solder sets that you crushed but I don't think it's as accurate, and since you're a first-timer it's better to keep it simple. When you get a decent measurement, repeat the routine just to be sure. It's time well spent.
Dave
12-03-2007, 02:38 PM
#49
Yep.
I don't test the torque as I don't have the right tool to do it. I go by the preload measurements and double-check that the input shaft turns smoothly by hand with moderate resistance.
Dave
I don't test the torque as I don't have the right tool to do it. I go by the preload measurements and double-check that the input shaft turns smoothly by hand with moderate resistance.
Dave
12-03-2007, 07:19 PM
#52
ya, the solder gets out from under the race so the edge is raised, I measure the flat surfaces. Do my above numbers seem high to you? And is it common to use more than 2 shims because it's looking like I'll need 3. 2 of 0.0315 and 1 of 0.0173
Last edited by Maximeltman; 12-03-2007 at 07:23 PM.
12-04-2007, 03:19 AM
#53
Yeah you should repeat the measurement. I've always gotten shim measurements that were near the middle of the range of sizes listed in the FSM.
Make sure the faces of the housings are perfectly clear of dings or junk. Also use at least 4 bolts to pull the housings together for this solder squeeze step.
Make sure the faces of the housings are perfectly clear of dings or junk. Also use at least 4 bolts to pull the housings together for this solder squeeze step.
12-04-2007, 05:56 AM
#54
so as far as the shims. one guy posted (i think his name was Sin) and he said that nissan doesnt make any shims thin enough for us. obviously you can't know until you measure but what do yall knowledgeable guys have to say about that?
12-04-2007, 11:54 AM
#55
Yeah you should repeat the measurement. I've always gotten shim measurements that were near the middle of the range of sizes listed in the FSM.
Make sure the faces of the housings are perfectly clear of dings or junk. Also use at least 4 bolts to pull the housings together for this solder squeeze step.
Make sure the faces of the housings are perfectly clear of dings or junk. Also use at least 4 bolts to pull the housings together for this solder squeeze step.
12-04-2007, 05:31 PM
#56
Make doubly sure that the bearings on the diff are driven down all the way and the pass side bearing cup is in all the way too. Then measure again. I've never seen a measurement outside of the Nissan shim range.
Dave
Dave
12-04-2007, 06:20 PM
#57
lolSo, I might reuse the originals. They seem to hold the diff properly. The solder crush method delivered time and time again about 0.061" or so, so maybe I'll just reuse one of my 0.027" shims that came with it, and then use a 0.0346" shim that I just ordered. Let's see, that makes 0.0616" or so..I think that's what I'll do.
Thanks dave and all the others like nealoc for helping me out..stay tuned for inside the whip updates...one more thing, if I brought the tranny to a transmission shop, told them to shim it, what you guys think it will cost me lol.
12-04-2007, 07:56 PM
#60
All that you do, is put solder between the differential bearing races and the transmission case, and torque it all down, and open it back up, tap the races out the case, and look at the solder where it's crushed.
12-04-2007, 08:24 PM
#61
thanks for the info
12-04-2007, 10:42 PM
#62
12-05-2007, 06:01 AM
#64
i'm going to try to order my kit within the next couple days.
12-05-2007, 06:13 AM
#65
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 20
NEED HELP IMMEDIATELY
I dont have rights to post my own topic....
But this is related to trannies.
I have a 98 max SE 3.0
The differential and the support are in a very VERY bad shape.
I brought it to the dealer, and they are quoting me 880$ for the differential and 280$ for the support. A total job of about 2800$ work included.
I cant help but think this is EXTREMELY overpriced.
If my tranny was in the worst possible state.... would it cost that much?
Can you think of alternatives I can use to save some money aside from popping in a used one? (if it was used, would it have to be a 4th gen?)
NEED HELP ASAP - garage needs an answer on if they should order the parts.
But this is related to trannies.
I have a 98 max SE 3.0
The differential and the support are in a very VERY bad shape.
I brought it to the dealer, and they are quoting me 880$ for the differential and 280$ for the support. A total job of about 2800$ work included.
I cant help but think this is EXTREMELY overpriced.
If my tranny was in the worst possible state.... would it cost that much?
Can you think of alternatives I can use to save some money aside from popping in a used one? (if it was used, would it have to be a 4th gen?)
NEED HELP ASAP - garage needs an answer on if they should order the parts.
12-05-2007, 09:49 AM
#66
Unrelated. The things that grind during a bad shift are not the gear teeth that are directly affected by bad bearings.
12-05-2007, 10:24 AM
#67
how common is it to have damage beyond the usual bearings?
12-05-2007, 12:57 PM
#68
but thanks for the advice. Who sells the kit anyway, for how much?
12-07-2007, 05:08 PM
#69
Hey ho...this is great
Nissan didnt get my shim in today, so i'll have to wait until monday to get it. I redid my clutch while i'm in there. you guys think that the plastic aligning tool is ok to use? and I re-used the same pilot bushing because it was a b!tch to get out, is that ok?
Nissan didnt get my shim in today, so i'll have to wait until monday to get it. I redid my clutch while i'm in there. you guys think that the plastic aligning tool is ok to use? and I re-used the same pilot bushing because it was a b!tch to get out, is that ok?
12-09-2007, 04:04 PM
#73
okay thanks guys...also, my new throwout bearing doesn't have the tabs on the side to hold the clips that hold it onto the withdrawal lever, does it need those tabs because without them, the bearing wouldn't be held very securely, unless it just needs the axle tube to hold it..the bearing came with a clutch kit that I bought on here a couple months back, possible they sent me the wrong bearing?
Are any Nissan Release bearings the same for different model cars, so could I use a pathfinder, sentra, etc??
Are any Nissan Release bearings the same for different model cars, so could I use a pathfinder, sentra, etc??
Last edited by Maximeltman; 12-09-2007 at 04:10 PM.
12-09-2007, 06:58 PM
#75
Not the clips, Dave, the clips came off the old bearing, I know I must reuse them on the new one. The new one does not have the tabs that the clips are suppose to snap onto. It's smooth, and the clips slide off.
12-10-2007, 08:14 AM
#78
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
U should pm him about the shims also, your local dealer will keep saying "they should be in tomorrow" but they will never come................
Don't forget to sand the bellhousing & starter surfaces.......
Don't forget to sand the bellhousing & starter surfaces.......
12-10-2007, 03:29 PM
#79
07-20-2012, 01:07 PM
#80
Bump on an old thread...
For those that don't know, I've been using this transmission until now and it has bad diff bearings, again. I pulled it and replaced both diff bearings again. The driver side replacement roller race does not go all the way in the transmission housing, unless I tap it in, and then I can't get a solder crush reading because the race is too tight in the case. I think that was the problem last time. At least I hope it is.
For those that don't know, I've been using this transmission until now and it has bad diff bearings, again. I pulled it and replaced both diff bearings again. The driver side replacement roller race does not go all the way in the transmission housing, unless I tap it in, and then I can't get a solder crush reading because the race is too tight in the case. I think that was the problem last time. At least I hope it is.
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