Is there a HOW TO on cleaning the EGR without removing it?
11-26-2007, 02:50 PM
#4
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 69
I have plenty of throttlebody cleaner and high pressure air to clean it out...but I need to know what and where to get at it first
11-26-2007, 06:51 PM
#8
no way.. thats 10 years of old solid carbon buildup, from what i heard, it feels and looks like a peice of coal inside the egr valve. u also have to worry about the lines feeding intot he egr valve cause they get pretty messed up too.
11-26-2007, 08:20 PM
#9
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Last edited by Hammy; 11-26-2007 at 08:23 PM.
11-26-2007, 08:22 PM
#10
i used a cut up coat hanger and busted my way through it!
11-27-2007, 06:34 AM
#13
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 350
I'm interested in this thread... Thanks for being here. Please forgive the hijack but I have a related question...
I'm wondering if anyone can provide "operational theory" of the EGR valve? Like....what it does, what it means for it to clog and any improvement realized from cleaning or replacing it.
FYI To date:
I replaced the KS (tough but possible with some creative toolwork & small hands)
I had all 3 O2 sensors changed
I took apart the IAC and cleaned it up (it was DUHRTY!)
I also pulled the TB and cleaned it (also DUHRTY)
160K miles
I've got no codes and it's running great. I do have some long cranking time 'till it fires though...
I'm wondering if anyone can provide "operational theory" of the EGR valve? Like....what it does, what it means for it to clog and any improvement realized from cleaning or replacing it.
FYI To date:
I replaced the KS (tough but possible with some creative toolwork & small hands)
I had all 3 O2 sensors changed
I took apart the IAC and cleaned it up (it was DUHRTY!)
I also pulled the TB and cleaned it (also DUHRTY)
160K miles
I've got no codes and it's running great. I do have some long cranking time 'till it fires though...
Last edited by Double E; 11-27-2007 at 09:17 AM. Reason: forgot to add the O2 sensor change
11-27-2007, 07:12 AM
#15
it helps keep the combustion chamber cooled. recirculates unburned fuel that may be in the exhaust. it clogs because the tube was designed with too sharp of a bend, but considering it doesnt get clogged until around 100k miles, its not that big of a deal. not like you have to do it every year or something.
the studs wont break due to rust. rust is your friend here since if they are really rusty, the studs will come out before the nuts come off.
the studs wont break due to rust. rust is your friend here since if they are really rusty, the studs will come out before the nuts come off.
11-27-2007, 09:02 AM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 350
Josh,
Same bet goes for the 97 I30t with 160K?
If I'm passing emissions, I have no codes & I'm getting over 400miles on a tank in mixed driving, I'm thinking that only the marginal lowering of combusion chamber temps would provide any performance benefit.
My position (for now) is to not bother unless I'm given a good case to do it...anyone?
Same bet goes for the 97 I30t with 160K?
If I'm passing emissions, I have no codes & I'm getting over 400miles on a tank in mixed driving, I'm thinking that only the marginal lowering of combusion chamber temps would provide any performance benefit.
My position (for now) is to not bother unless I'm given a good case to do it...anyone?
11-27-2007, 09:06 AM
#22
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 69
Josh,
Same bet goes for the 97 I30t with 160K?
If I'm passing emissions, I have no codes & I'm getting over 400miles on a tank in mixed driving, I'm thinking that only the marginal lowering of combusion chamber temps would provide any performance benefit.
My position (for now) is to not bother unless I'm given a good case to do it...anyone?
Same bet goes for the 97 I30t with 160K?
If I'm passing emissions, I have no codes & I'm getting over 400miles on a tank in mixed driving, I'm thinking that only the marginal lowering of combusion chamber temps would provide any performance benefit.
My position (for now) is to not bother unless I'm given a good case to do it...anyone?
11-27-2007, 04:21 PM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,391
^ yes 2da mizzax i keep every file regarding to maxima's
and no MCtwist77, you cannot gain gains by regaining them lol
you would be returning to oem spec and not see a gain per say. a gain is an improvement over stock. in this case it is probably negligible
and no MCtwist77, you cannot gain gains by regaining them lol
you would be returning to oem spec and not see a gain per say. a gain is an improvement over stock. in this case it is probably negligible
11-28-2007, 01:34 PM
#29
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: London, ON, CANADA
Posts: 585
I just cleaned mine a couple weeks ago, when I took off my intake manifold to be painted, and man was it CLOGGED, anyways did anyone have a gasket in between there? Cause i sure as hell didnt, someone at Nissan said it should have one, is that true?
11-28-2007, 02:48 PM
#32
it helps keep the combustion chamber cooled. recirculates unburned fuel that may be in the exhaust. it clogs because the tube was designed with too sharp of a bend, but considering it doesnt get clogged until around 100k miles, its not that big of a deal. not like you have to do it every year or something.
the studs wont break due to rust. rust is your friend here since if they are really rusty, the studs will come out before the nuts come off.
the studs wont break due to rust. rust is your friend here since if they are really rusty, the studs will come out before the nuts come off.
i thought it'd be more likely to do the opposite.. hmm
11-28-2007, 04:21 PM
#35
was wondering exactly the same thing... feels like my car bogs and hesitates a bit with warmer weather so im thinking the engine would cool itself better once this is done.
11-28-2007, 04:40 PM
#36
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 69
Im not trying to beat a dead horse here, its just that my gf can't find the printout with her original code on it so I can confirm the code was for a clog as opposed to something else EGR related - and it's cold as a witches tit at this point. So I don't want to pull the **** apart in this weather only to find out it made no difference.
11-29-2007, 08:00 AM
#38
no you ar INCORRECT! to take off the LARGE TUBE you can use A 30MM OPEN END WRENCH!! which seems to go in line with the instructional photos in the picture. if he his replacing the EGR VALVE then this would be a benifical step in aiding his progress. please do not question me, i HAVE removed this part from my car several times and i think i know a little bit about what i am saying.
11-29-2007, 08:35 AM
#39
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 69
no you ar INCORRECT! to take off the LARGE TUBE you can use A 30MM OPEN END WRENCH!! which seems to go in line with the instructional photos in the picture. if he his replacing the EGR VALVE then this would be a benifical step in aiding his progress. please do not question me, i HAVE removed this part from my car several times and i think i know a little bit about what i am saying.
I think when he said you were "Incorrect" he meant that the Large pipe isnt what needs to be cleaned...the small one does.
11-29-2007, 09:33 AM
#40
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 4
Like 7jackmack, my 96 NM runs very well with the ECL on (P0446, P1400). Even there is no difference to clean EGR system still I'll try to work on it. Who can provide more detailed pictures for cleaning both EGR valve and EGR solenoid valve? Appreciate!