Can't remove CV bolt
12-18-2007, 03:55 PM
#1
Can't remove CV NUT
I tried for about 2 hours already.
I tried the motorvate.ca write-up way and broke 2 screw drivers.
Is there anything else I can try?
I tried the motorvate.ca write-up way and broke 2 screw drivers.
Is there anything else I can try?
Last edited by Olezhka; 12-18-2007 at 04:13 PM. Reason: Wrong word
12-18-2007, 05:23 PM
#8
ok,
1. put the socket on it, just the socket, and give it a good whack with a hammer (with the wheel in the air.)
2. then drop the wheel back on the ground, and you WILL need at least 4' of leverage. if that means you need a pipe, etc, then get it.
It will come free, you just need more leverage.
It's more effective however if for step 2. you can keep the wheel in the air (assuming you can apply the brakes ie. calipers NOT removed) and you have someone handy to hold the brakes on while you're trying to break the nut free.
and no, both axel ends are a right hand thread (standard)
1. put the socket on it, just the socket, and give it a good whack with a hammer (with the wheel in the air.)
2. then drop the wheel back on the ground, and you WILL need at least 4' of leverage. if that means you need a pipe, etc, then get it.
It will come free, you just need more leverage.
It's more effective however if for step 2. you can keep the wheel in the air (assuming you can apply the brakes ie. calipers NOT removed) and you have someone handy to hold the brakes on while you're trying to break the nut free.
and no, both axel ends are a right hand thread (standard)
Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; 12-18-2007 at 05:27 PM.
12-18-2007, 05:26 PM
#9
I was going to say, if you had tranny fluid still in there...turn the car on, put the breaker bar towards the floor at such an angle that when you put it in gear the car wheels turn and you break the bolt off.. another way is to add a scisor jack stand under the wrench..as it goes higher it will push that bolt off ( have to turn the wheel in the direction facing outwards for room.. Hopefully. Good luck.
12-18-2007, 05:34 PM
#10
ok,
1. put the socket on it, just the socket, and give it a good whack with a hammer (with the wheel in the air.)
2. then drop the wheel back on the ground, and you WILL need at least 4' of leverage. if that means you need a pipe, etc, then get it.
It will come free, you just need more leverage.
It's more effective however if for step 2. you can keep the wheel in the air (assuming you can apply the brakes ie. calipers NOT removed) and you have someone handy to hold the brakes on while you're trying to break the nut free.
and no, both axel ends are a right hand thread (standard)
1. put the socket on it, just the socket, and give it a good whack with a hammer (with the wheel in the air.)
2. then drop the wheel back on the ground, and you WILL need at least 4' of leverage. if that means you need a pipe, etc, then get it.
It will come free, you just need more leverage.
It's more effective however if for step 2. you can keep the wheel in the air (assuming you can apply the brakes ie. calipers NOT removed) and you have someone handy to hold the brakes on while you're trying to break the nut free.
and no, both axel ends are a right hand thread (standard)
This method worked for me as well .... PB and breaker bar was all i needed..... but I weigh close to 3 bills
12-18-2007, 07:55 PM
#11
It's best to try and break the nut free on the ground, then jack up the car to finish removing the nut. You could also try heating the nut up. Just be careful of the brake lines and rubber bits near the hub.
12-18-2007, 08:49 PM
#12
I just put a basic 16 inch breaker bar and jump on the bar, done it on 3 different cars. Have to do it with the wheel on the ground. Done it on 3 maximas, GTP and a blazer. Never hit the paint but i could see that happening.
12-25-2007, 09:19 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 511
Here is what I did:
1. Take off the wheel (in my case Alloy)
2. Take off the cotter pin and the protective piece.
3. Put your spare wheel on
4. Lower the jack, so the spare wheel is on the ground
5. Use 16" 1/2 breaker bar plus a pipe over it as a leverage.
6. If the spare spins, lower the jack a little.
This worked like a charm today. I used some left over shelving pipe (thin walls). I weigh 135lbs and dont have an impact gun
Max
1. Take off the wheel (in my case Alloy)
2. Take off the cotter pin and the protective piece.
3. Put your spare wheel on
4. Lower the jack, so the spare wheel is on the ground
5. Use 16" 1/2 breaker bar plus a pipe over it as a leverage.
6. If the spare spins, lower the jack a little.
This worked like a charm today. I used some left over shelving pipe (thin walls). I weigh 135lbs and dont have an impact gun
Max
12-25-2007, 10:06 PM
#16
Here is what I did:
1. Take off the wheel (in my case Alloy)
2. Take off the cotter pin and the protective piece.
3. Put your spare wheel on
4. Lower the jack, so the spare wheel is on the ground
5. Use 16" 1/2 breaker bar plus a pipe over it as a leverage.
6. If the spare spins, lower the jack a little.
This worked like a charm today. I used some left over shelving pipe (thin walls). I weigh 135lbs and dont have an impact gun
Max
1. Take off the wheel (in my case Alloy)
2. Take off the cotter pin and the protective piece.
3. Put your spare wheel on
4. Lower the jack, so the spare wheel is on the ground
5. Use 16" 1/2 breaker bar plus a pipe over it as a leverage.
6. If the spare spins, lower the jack a little.
This worked like a charm today. I used some left over shelving pipe (thin walls). I weigh 135lbs and dont have an impact gun
Max
word - except i didnt have a breaker bar and though it would be a good idea to use a torque wrench? (dont do that 
). BUT the cv nuts were cake compared to the ****ing crankshaft pulley bolt which needed like 189 feet of leverage
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