JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

Hey ... just like the title says, I need an exploded internal view for the 5spd. I am getting ready to crack my case and do a bearing and seal kit, but I have never done a 5spd before. (have done auto tranyz ... but it's been a while) Is there anyone that might know where I could find a break down of what is inside the trans? I have read the Motorvate (very good - but is there something better anywhere?) I am just affraid that when I get into it, I will be lost.

I have a Haynes (sucks!) but I can't find anything better really.

Anyway ... any help would be much appreciated.

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

subscribing. where did you get your rebuild kit? im about to get one from drivetrain.com. I didnt want to buy the syncros either since they add 200 bucks to the kit for them..hopefully the ones in the tranny are in good condition.

you dont have an FSM?

also, i see alot of threads like this coming up lately I think we should make a better how-to with more pictures or something. the idea is intimidating me too which is why i havent gotten around to ordering my kit yet...but if it only takes a few days to do, thats awesome. okay im done talking now.

prem

Check out the factory service manual... They have a blown up diagram of all the transmission internals...

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Anything else you need?

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

Awsome! Thanks mate!

I got my kit from GTTransmissions (very nice guy to deal with!) I got my Amsoil from Ed (Talkinghorse) also ... VERY helpfull and easy to deal with. I would recomend both of these. I payed (shipped to Springfield, Missouri) $201 for the bearing / seal kit (w/o syncroz) and I think I gave Ed $50 for the oil.

Considering the alternative of $1,265 to have it done by a garage, I like $251 a LOT better. I am also doing the clutch while I am at it. I got an Excedy OEM replacement clutch ... not into racing really and I like the feel of the OEM clutch. Car has 105k on it so I am sure it's on the original clutch. I just don't see any sense in not doing it while I have it "ready" to do anyway.

Pmohr ... thanks again mate!

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

No problem.

It's gonna be fun once you crack that thing open, god knows what you'll find. Well, with yours I'm sure it won't be anything but expected, but with my friend's...

Thought it was an ISB, but we opened her up and found this:

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

Yea ... that's not cool at all. I am now crossing my fingers hoping it is the IPS bearing. lol It hasn't been too bad for too long ... so I hope all is as you say, "expected". I really started noticing it around 94k miles or so ... but it has gotten worse in the last 10k or so for sure. Much louder than it was. Before, I was the only one who could hear it, but now everone can hear it if they listen. I am just really glad to have a great place to come and ask questions and get help and to be able to do the work myself. Thanks for the help everyone! This place is great!!!!

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

You need an FSM to do this job for the first time.

secondtonone317

iTrader: (12)

there's some stuff in the 4th gen stickies too

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

im guessing you had to call in gttransmission cause on their website Im not seeing any rebuild kits.

I hope I dont have any unexpected surprises either. what do you do if something like that happens? its all replaceable with new parts right?

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

online link to FSM ???? anyone?

Yes, that chipped tooth in the pic that Pmohr showed was on the Input Shaft (IIRC) and ... yes, they had to replace the whole shaft - can't replace just that gear. Was somthin like $190 or so ... not cheap, but there is NO way I would want to just put it back in like that.

Yes .. call GT Trans ... I think the guy's name is Gary - not %100 on that .... so if it's not, sorry. He will ask for your # and then call you back. Friendly people. Oh ... and he's a bit hard of hearing so you make talk to Judy (she does the billing and such).

Keep us posted ... let me know what he wants for the kit if you don't mind.

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

i thought you knew how much the kit cost??
the one from drivetrain.com was $236 but if this one is 200 shipped and its the same thing from gttransmission i might just go with them.
http://phatg20.net/index.php?option=...c=select&id=28

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the link!

Yes Chillin .... I payed $201 shipped ... but I was just wondering if he would quote you a differnet price is all. First time I called the price was $5 less. Big deal ... I know! lol

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

no problem.

i'll call up and see and possibly buy it within the next couple days (gotta pay for this semester classes). i wont let him quote me more if he gave you yours for that much thats for sure lol.. but i'll let you know

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

I can't get the damn detent screws out for R or 1-2 ... 3-4 is out easy (it's a bolt). Any ideas. I have tried a large (LARGE) screwdriver but to no avail. This is starting to upset me now. I even tried an impact ratchet (with screw tip). I broke the head of the driver bit. PB Blaster is soakin ... again and we'll see.

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

take some pics!

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

got some ... hang on, i'll post in a minute

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Did you read the manual? That's not a screw.

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

I did ... but it shows to turn it and use a wire to push from the other side, but I have had no luck.

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

what are you talking about? all the detent plugs are hex head bolts and the reverse shaft and selector shaft are not screws. you take out the little retaining pins and then push them out from the back using a coat hangar or other similar implement while twisting them with a screw driver if necessary.

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

well ... my problem is really, I can't get the R pin to move at all. I have the retainer pin out (small solid pin, bout 1/2" long right?) and the pin with the flat head on it will not turn nor push out at all. I know ... noob blast here, but this is my first manual to do.

I really do appreciate the help from everyone. If I could repay the debt, I would gladly do it. I will have pix up soon, having a problem with my photobucket. I would like to do a write up, if this goes well that is.

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

it's probably just gunked up with corrosion and what not. perhaps try tapping at it with a hammer, try heating the case surrounding the pin, etc. i had one that was kindof difficult once and just worked on it til it came loose.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

I use a long thin metal rod (3/16" or so) and tap it out from the backside. The corrosion can cause the o-ring on that thing to stick.

And make sure you've pulled the little metal crossbar out the top first.

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

is there another way to get that pin out ... ???? or, to get the gears out of the way so i can work on it easier?

what is in the hole under the R gate? i can't really make it out. also, i am a bit conffused as to how this shaft is held in place .... does it drop out from the bottom of the case? i see the pic on motorvate ... of the shaft ... and it has that " T " on the end near the bottom of the case, but i guess i don't understand how it's really held in there.

any drawings (even hand drawings would do to explain this)

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Go to the hardware store and buy a long, thin punch about 3/16" round at the tip. Feed it between the gearshafts and into the hole. Strike with hammer.

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

Well, it's looking better. I have the mainshaft and input shaft out and one of the diff bearings off. Calling it a night for now, will hope to finish it tomorrow. Thanks to all for the help, couldn'ta done it without this site and your help! Many thanks!!!!!

Jim

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

ok ... just thought of this - on the diff, according to the Motorvate write up, there is a large and small diff bearing? which is which (drivers large?, pass small?) i don't get it, they look to be the same size. also, is the R / 5th detent spring the same as the others or is it different? a mate bumped my parts pile and now i can't find the spring. and ... can i replace it with a spring from Ace or does it have a certain compression load that has to be OEM? TIA!!!!!

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

maynnn post some pics of what your talking about!

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

5th gen clutch would have been a great option.

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

Nis .... I looked up the #'s and the Excedy clutch # was the same for the 4th / 5th gen. Maybe I shoulda gotten a different clutch, now I'm worried.

I just know to stay away from ACT ! Evil stuff mang!


DETENT SPRING ????? HELP!!! Is the R spring the same as the others? Anyone?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Not sure if the 'reverse checking spring' is a detent (though I think there should only be one detent spring per shift rod, 1/2, 3/4, and 5/R). Red is the 'reverse checking spring', the green ones are the detent springs as I know them.

It appears that the 5/R detent spring is different than both the 1/2 and 3/4.

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

the longer spring goes in the bellhousing (bottom half of the case i you have it sitting up right on the bench) and the two shorter springs go in the case cover (top half if sitting upright on the bench). the bearings on each side of the diff are identical for the open diff trans. only the VLSD has different sized bearings.

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

thanks! good to know they are the same. i guess Motorvate's write up was on a VLSD trans then.

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

gotta question .... on the new IPSB (clutch side) there is a ring on the new bearing. I noticed, of course!, right after I felt the punch bounce, that the "ring" it's on the wrong end. what I mean is .... the bearing is about 1.25" tall and the ring sits down about .25" or so ... the bearing seats into the housing, but the ring is preventing it from sitting all the way down, it needs to be on the top of the bearing, and not the top.

so ... ? is this - do I have to pull and reseat that bearing, or just remove the ring ... or what? I don't recall the old bearing having a ring on it at all. there is a groove in the case (I guess an oil channel) leading to / from the bearing seat and I don't know if this ring is supposed to line up with that channel or not?

Thanks!

here's a picture of what I mean.

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

bumpidy bump bump

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

that snap ring is not supposed to be on there... i have no idea why it's there.

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

whew ... thanks! then it's ready to be put back together.

sodie14

let us know if you're project was successful!

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

I'll post a whole write up on the job ... including pix. I hope it goes well - and thus far it has ... with the exception of the R shaft.

Anyway .... putting it back together now and I have a question or two.

Should I lube the gear stacks (main / input shafts) with anything (white Lithium spray grease) or other ... or not? And, does it matter what type of grease I use to hold the magnet in, I have White Lithium (spray and packing) grease ... just not sure if it's ok to use em. Thanks!

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

If youre going to use anythign, use vaseline or gear oil. Definitely not lithium grease.

Dave