View Poll Results: Which mod should be first?
Suspension



9
32.14%
Y-pipe



10
35.71%
Wheels



5
17.86%
Exhaust



4
14.29%
Underdrive Pulley



0
0%
Voters: 28. You may not vote on this poll
Which mod should be first?
Re: Which mod should be first?
Originally posted by max7
Which mod do you guys think should be first? This should help our newbies!
Which mod do you guys think should be first? This should help our newbies!
SuDZ
Re: Re: Which mod should be first?
Originally posted by SuDZ
Get your intake done. Good place to start for cheap and it gives you a few HP gain.
SuDZ
Get your intake done. Good place to start for cheap and it gives you a few HP gain.
SuDZ
Before you add HP, you must first prepare a basic platform that will allow you to derive optimal benefit from more HP, to wit:
1- Install lowering springs and stiffer struts, a front strut tower brace, and a rear anti-sway bar. The car will have a lower center of gravity, it will corner faster and flatter, and there will be very little nose-dive under hard braking. The stocker boys will have no idea what happened to your car, even at this [early] stage!
2- Install wider, low-profile tires on slightly larger wheels. The idea is to maintain the original outside diameter measurement within + or - 3% to keep the speedometer/odometer as close to accurate as possible. The new tires will increase grip, and if you go for Z-rated tires, you can run at speeds in excess of 149-mph all day! If your original set-up was 15 x 6.5 wheels with 215/65/15 tires, I'd up-size to 16 x 7.5 wheels with 225/50/16 ZR tires, or even 17 x 8 wheels and 235/45/17 ZR tires. New rolling stock will also add a big, noticeable difference to handling, acceleration, and braking.
3- Install an intake, y-pipe, and cat-back exhaust system. Do these all at once if you can, as the entire system performs better as a group than each one does by itself. (The whole is greater than the sum of its parts.) An option here would be an aftermarket catalytic converter. Put these on to uncork your engine and add more power, especially at the top-end. (It'll sound nice, too.)
4- After all that, you'll probably be ready for a heavy-duty clutch, an aluminum flywheel, limited-slip differential, and stiffer engine mounts. The underdrive pulley would go good here, too.
5- Now time for nitrous oxide or a supercharger, and whatever else you may have left out along the way, like a short-throw shifter, more cockpit gauges, a heavy-duty fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, and whatever SHOWY bits you may have avoided up to this point!
Have fun. Good luck. (Start saving...)
1- Install lowering springs and stiffer struts, a front strut tower brace, and a rear anti-sway bar. The car will have a lower center of gravity, it will corner faster and flatter, and there will be very little nose-dive under hard braking. The stocker boys will have no idea what happened to your car, even at this [early] stage!
2- Install wider, low-profile tires on slightly larger wheels. The idea is to maintain the original outside diameter measurement within + or - 3% to keep the speedometer/odometer as close to accurate as possible. The new tires will increase grip, and if you go for Z-rated tires, you can run at speeds in excess of 149-mph all day! If your original set-up was 15 x 6.5 wheels with 215/65/15 tires, I'd up-size to 16 x 7.5 wheels with 225/50/16 ZR tires, or even 17 x 8 wheels and 235/45/17 ZR tires. New rolling stock will also add a big, noticeable difference to handling, acceleration, and braking.
3- Install an intake, y-pipe, and cat-back exhaust system. Do these all at once if you can, as the entire system performs better as a group than each one does by itself. (The whole is greater than the sum of its parts.) An option here would be an aftermarket catalytic converter. Put these on to uncork your engine and add more power, especially at the top-end. (It'll sound nice, too.)
4- After all that, you'll probably be ready for a heavy-duty clutch, an aluminum flywheel, limited-slip differential, and stiffer engine mounts. The underdrive pulley would go good here, too.
5- Now time for nitrous oxide or a supercharger, and whatever else you may have left out along the way, like a short-throw shifter, more cockpit gauges, a heavy-duty fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, and whatever SHOWY bits you may have avoided up to this point!
Have fun. Good luck. (Start saving...)
I'd do suspension first. Its the suspension on the Maxima that is its weak point, the engine is plenty strong. Might as as well mod the parts that will make the largest difference first and do the stuff that's essentially just "icing on the cake" later.
Originally posted by TintDaMax
Whoa, hold on here people. FIRST, you MUST have clear corners and tint before you can even drive your car. Well, you can drive it home from the dealership, but thats it.
Whoa, hold on here people. FIRST, you MUST have clear corners and tint before you can even drive your car. Well, you can drive it home from the dealership, but thats it.
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