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Automatic Transmission Drain/Refill Questions

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Old 01-16-2008, 08:30 AM
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Automatic Transmission Drain/Refill Questions

so I recently bought 12 quarts of Amsoil ATF from talkinghorse (excellent transaction by the way - solid businessman).
before you go saying i bought too much, this is my plan. I want to do a drain refill plus cleaning the magnets/screen now and in a couple of weeks do JUST a drain/refill. i figure it should be about 5 or 6 quarts per cycle.
is that number correct?

i was on the fence about flushing, but i got 45k on the engine and dont think the fluid has ever been changed. i want to play it safe because i cannot afford a new tranny...but anyway....i got some questions:

A. Other than ATF, jacks and tools, what else will i need for the procedure?

1. I read somewhere about having to replace gaskets once i drop the pan. Is that true? or can i just use sealent on the old one? if i buy a new one, what should i be asking for when i go to the dealership? what is it called?
2. I also read that some people replace the 21 bolts that hold the pan on.
Is that neccesary?
can i just use sealent on the old ones and reuse them?
3. Is it fine to just clean the screen? or should I replace that with a generic autozone/dealership one?
4. Are there any other pieces or parts I should use when doing this? I dont want to find out sunday evening that i dont have something.
im planning on hittin up the dealership on thurs or friday afternoon and i want to have a list of everything i need.



B. The overall procedure, from what i understand, is as follows:

- Jack the car up as high as you can (from the front)
- unbolt the pan
- let the fluid drain out for 30min? 60min?
- remove the screen/magnet and wipe them down
- replace the gasket for the pan and replace the bolts
- refill about 6 quarts of ATF into the dipstick (the amount of fluid lost during the drain)
- then start the car and cycle through the gears to make sure the new fluid is evenly dispursed


is there any other steps im missing?

any words of wisdom or tricks youve learned in your experience?



appreciate your help.
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Old 01-16-2008, 08:49 AM
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I removed the pan at 100K. There was very little debris on the magnet. The pan itself was very clean. The screen was very clean. Had I know that, I would not remove the pan.

Anyway: Yes, you need a new gasket. The old one may be torn, why risk a leak. Dealer should have it for $20. The FSM says use new bolts. I reused the old bolts with a little sealant on the thread, Permatex sealant #2.

The screen is difficult to remove. There is one bolt that could be tricky. I did not remove the screen so I don't have the detail. If you replace the screen, I recommend Nissan part.

You need a gasket for the drain bolt. It is the same copper gasket for the oil drain plug.

Before unbolting the pan, you should remove the drain plug first and get as much fluid out as possible. Then reinstall the plug with a new gasket. Then remove the pan. When refill, start with 5 quarts, then measure before adding more.

If I were to do this, I would just drain and fill every 15KM - 25KM.
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Old 01-16-2008, 09:37 AM
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No need to replace the bolts. I believe they're self-sealing bolts, which is why the FSM states replacement is 'required' every time, but I've never replaced them and I have no issues. If you're **** about that, you could put some RTV on them but it isn't necessary.

Try to find a rubber gasket if you can, cork is...eh. If the old one is rubber and it looks okay, you should be able to reuse it. Maybe a small bead of RTV on one or both sides to ensure a good seal.

No need to replace the screen, just spray it out with brake parts cleaner or a parts washer. While I have the pan off, I like to spray everything off with brake parts cleaner just to get any residual crap off of the VB and inner case surface(s). Screen, IIRC has one bolt that comes in from the top of the VB with only a nut accessible while in the car. I've never had an issue just R&R'ing the nut itself, the bolt never spun in place so that wasn't a problem.

Let it drain out for as long as you deem necessary, I generally just drop the pan and leave it draining while I do other work, when I get back to it it's usually done. Use your discretion when to bolt the pan back up by judging drip rate.

I've gotten anywhere between 3 and 6 quarts (once again, IIRC) from dropping the pan on the RE4F04A. Really depended on whether I pulled it in right after driving the 20 miles to school, or halfway through the day when it was cool. IMO, it's best to drain it while still hot...the ATF gets slightly thinner with the heat and it's more likely to clear more of it out.

Anything else...spray out the pan well, preferably with a parts washer and a brush. If not, brake parts cleaner and a rag works well enough, too.

Basically, I think that's it. If you want to drain out a bit more, you can drop the VB but I don't know if you want to try that. It's simple after you've done an auto once or twice, but your first time may be a bit too 'in depth'; many different bolts of varying sizes, springs and spring plates that will fall out, possible loss of o-rings, torque-critical threads for the VB bolts that will happily strip out, etc.
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Old 01-16-2008, 09:47 AM
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i dunno what VB is
im not ashamed to say im noob

so.....
when i go to the dealership parts desk (cuz they dont know wtf they are doing, i could be just as qualified to work there.....)

what do i ask for exaclty? like a list of what i need

just the gasket?
what is the name of the gasket? and what u mean by cork vs rubbeR? which one will the dealership have?
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Old 01-16-2008, 09:50 AM
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VB = Valve Body.
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Old 01-16-2008, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by ROCKART
i dunno what VB is
im not ashamed to say im noob

so.....
when i go to the dealership parts desk (cuz they dont know wtf they are doing, i could be just as qualified to work there.....)

what do i ask for exaclty? like a list of what i need

just the gasket?
what is the name of the gasket? and what u mean by cork vs rubbeR? which one will the dealership have?
VB == Valve Body. It regulates and distributes fluid pressure between ports to engage/disengage your 'gears'.

Trans pan gasket should only be around $14 or so - http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...-p-333689.html

Part number is 31397-80X01. I believe dealer sells cork, not sure on that though. You can ask for that part number or the trans pan gasket.

Cork, in my experience has a greater tendency to leak (even with correct torque value and order) than rubber does.
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Old 01-16-2008, 10:06 AM
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so rubber can be found at autozone or whatever?
just ask for a rubber trans pan gasket?


is that the only part i will need for the drain/refill?
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Old 01-16-2008, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ROCKART
so rubber can be found at autozone or whatever?
just ask for a rubber trans pan gasket?


is that the only part i will need for the drain/refill?
Yes, rubber should be available at AZ, AA, NAPA, wherever. I believe even the FelPro gaskets for the trans pan are cork...which kinda sucks.

Now that I think about it, there may not even be a rubber gasket available. Worth a shot to look around and ask for, though. Try calling up Dave B, see what he says.

Besides your basic tools, brake parts cleaner, rags, trans fluid, and gasket...I think that's all you should need, yes.
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Old 01-16-2008, 12:23 PM
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alright man. thanks a lot.
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Old 01-16-2008, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by ROCKART
alright man. thanks a lot.
No problem.
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Old 01-16-2008, 11:06 PM
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What's up Frank, Napa sell the rubber one (pep boys- cork). PM'd

Last edited by maxpeed96plat.; 01-17-2008 at 03:00 AM.
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