I am officially pissed at myself. I always seem to mess something up when modding...idk if it's just me.

Anyway, I put 4 led's in replacement for the original bulbs that had been behind my climate control. Took about 2 hours because of a lot of guess and checks and I put the led's right into the bulb holders, unlike the write-up on vqpower.

I ended up putting it in and boy did they look great...besides the fact I noticed one difference. When my lights are off (headlights or just corners) there is a small dash of light on the climate control, even if it's off. For reference, it's actually the middle of the 8 or part of the 6 or even part of the 5. I may have confused you here, but part of the number is actually lit up. Oddly enough, when I turn the lights on, the thing disappears...for now. When I turn the climate control on, the dash is now "missing". The 8 doesn't have a middle and part of the 6 is now missing.

It's almost like when the lights are off there's too much power so the dash lights and when the lights are on the thing disappears and there's not enough power to light it. Besides that, everything works fine...


Anyone have an idea...or should I just do it like the vqpower and use something as another power source?

 

i know how to eplain the dim light when the car is off, you confused me on the rest. there is a small amount of current running through your call all the time. since the led is more sensitive it outputs a visible amount of light.

 

i guess i really confused you then...i'm going outside to take a picture right now. the led isn't the thing turning on, it's the actual climate control display...what do you call those lights behind it which light to form different numbers

 

 

please click those above pictures so it doesn't seem like I'm looney.
The first picture is the dash which is actually the middle of the eight. The first pic is when the lights are off and when the climate control is off.

The second pic is when the lights are on and the climate control is on. That 70 degrees is not really 70, it's actually 78 degrees, but like I said, that middle dash goes missing as soon as my lights go on.

Odd, isn't it? I guess I'll have to take it apart again and tap into another power source like vqpower. Oh, and I apologize for the shaky image.....it's about 25 degrees here and I went out in my t-shirt=shivering

 

yeah man, i haven't got there yet so i dunno.

 

I would pull everything back out and check the wiring and the Instrument. I am sure you might new a new one,but I would check the wirings first.

 

I would say the lcd is damaged.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=544397

 

I would agree with fanaticrockford.
did you tap the power off the lcd display?

 

+1, sounds like a resistor or relay or something.

You could tap the power from your clock.

 

actually the unit was not damaged...it must've been something the electrical components of the car were disagreeing with because I fixed it today

I pulled everything out and wired them all to tap off a new power source, but, I think I'm going to try to tap off of the rear window defroster power...I don't want the lights to be on 24/7 if i'd tap into the clock...

So does anyone know which one's the actual power to the rear defroster? I'll be outside checking with my voltmeter and also studying these FSM pages.

 

I finally got to my CC yesterday and thankfully I finished it without going through the whole "gost 8" thing you were dealing with!!!!! I used the stock sockets for the 4 back lights and just cut/replaced the 2 indicator LED's. You have to figure out which side of the circuit board is hot soo oyoou know which way to seat the socket when your done.
I removed the stock bulb and fished my LED throught the two little holes in the socket. The neutral "-" of the LED i wraped exactly as the stock bulb was. B/c of the opening that the rear housing has for each bulb too access I was able to use this space to fit the resistor I just soldered the resistor to the end of the hot "+" leg and bent it over and like the neutral just wraped it like the stock bulbs. The wire of the LED is thicker than the stock bulb so it takes a little force too twist the socket in to place but I got it with a pair of pliers. The recirculat and de-fog indicator LED's I just cut about a 1/4 of an inch down and re soldered them. (remember to mark which side is positive and negative.)



I had to re-solder the left LED in this picture it was to wide to fit back in the switch
I also recomend sanding them so they dont blind you like my rear defoger does lol


Its definetly not as bright as everything but its good enough

 

looks good. i ended up wiring them together and tapping off the rear defrost power. Mine don't seem as bright as yours but I spent way too much time back there...ughhhh. That ghost 8 thing freaked me out though, how about you? Geeze, I thought I burn't another thing out just like I did to my BCM in my I30, oh man those were the days...

 

^^ ya man youll end up giving yourself a heart attack with stuff like that. You take your time think twice and still have problems. Some stuff is to sensative. I had a 323GTX (all wheel drive turb) I tried to change the led in the transmission switch and fried it just by swaping led's couldnt take the heat or something. I was no longer able to change from straight driving to turning and had my ouotside tires skipping around turns for the rest of the cars life.
Weird **** man!!

 

hahaha ahhh mann. Sometimes I ask myself 'why' a lot. Why do I do things and it never seems to be 100% perfect unless I'm swapping rear tail light bulb....

I actually toasted my BCM two years ago trying to change my Keyring bulb to an LED. That was scary when something popped and smoke came out of the socket part. Turns out when I'd shut my doors the interior lights wouldn't go off!! Had to pull the fuse and looked around for another BCM. Turns out they're about 900 bucks but I got one off here for 30 shipped. I could not sleep.