I really appreciate the article that Mishmosh wrote for the forum on changing the water pump on the Max, but I have a couple extra hints.

There were plenty of warnings about dropping bolts or washers into the engine. One word of encouragement is that the washers are captive on the bolts, so they won't drop off for both the water pump and chain tensioner.

Secondly and more important, I was very concerned about antifreeze getting into the engine. Years ago, an old mechanic told me that if antifreeze hits a bearing, it will ruin it.

So as a safety precaution, I removed the oil pan and found that there was antifreeze was in the bottom of the pan. The antifreeze is heavier than oil.

The removal was very easy (no obstructions) and no gasket other than RTV sealant. Anyway, it's always bothered me that the bottom part of the oil (what seems to be the dirtiest part) never gets drained. Looks like about 1/4 of a quart could be left in the bottom. Anyway, I removed the old sealant with a wire brush on the pan and bottom of the block, then cleaned it with carb cleaner so there wouldn't be any oil left to start a leak. Then spread on RTV and replace the pan. Took less than a half hour.

One more thing. When I put the pump in, I tried to tighten up all 3 bolts and ended up getting the new pump cocked to the side, didn't go in smooth like it should have. I loosened the side bolt and then walked it down in using only the top and bottom bolt.

My car has 188,000 miles and running strong (now, without a water leak).

Might be nice if these few things could be added to the Water Pump procedure.

Mik

 

Could someone link me to the article that Mishmosh wrote?

 

MikeF, what made you decide to change the water pump now, as opposed to before, or in the future?

Dr J

 

Tarun,
The article that Mishmosh wrote is at:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=227404

Very good article.

Dr J,

I noticed that the heater stopped working a couple weeks ago because the water level was low. I refilled it but didn't want to take the chance of over heating, nor do I like the idea of driving around Minnesota (it's been hovering around 0 Deg F) in the winter.

I wasn't sure where it was leaking at first, but reading some of the articles here on the forum pointed me to the water pump.

I really don't mind working on cars
(though it was cool in the garage, even with the heater running).
I sold a 77 Datsun 280 Z last spring that I spent a lot of time on repainting and getting pristine. I've got a Honda S2000 as my toy car (parked for the winter). Thought about a 350Z, but I wanted a convertible and found a great buy on this car, 03 with 11,000 miles. Cars are a hobby, along with amateur radio, keeps me busy.

Mike

 

Fantastic instructions. My water pump and tensioner went without a hitch. I would strongly recommend having a new radiator on hand just in case you break a hose connection as I did. They are indeed VERY brittle. $140 at Advance Auto.

I love this internet thing - I think any pervasive problem with any popular vehicle can be discerned on the 'net.

 

Having a new radiator 'on hand' just in case is a bit extreme. If you don't manhandle the hoses, you won't break anything.

 

MikeF, how long did the whole thing take you do to?

 

thanks

 

When working with hoses like that, just use WD-40 or PB blaster on them and it will loosen the grip wonderfully.

 

Replacing a water pump on a 2000. Can't seem to get past the chain now that the pump is loose? any suggestions?

 

No need to post in two seperate threads. Especially old threads.

Of course you have to take the tensioner out. Did you rotate the crank to get slack on the water pump side?

Yes, you need to get the chain out of the way in order to get the pump out.

 

There is this thing atop every page on this site - it's a button, you click it and type what you need help with and .... like magic, you get threads to choose from. Not a hard job really, but it helps to know what you're doing.

 

This forum has been very helpful. Much more useful than the Haynes book. But, we hit a snag.

So, replaced the water pump O-rings, but not the water pump. The water pump spun just fine, no catches or anything. When I poured water through the system yesterday, no leaks (it was still on supports).

Put water in it this morning after EVERYTHING was back on, and it was leaking badly as if from the water pump again. Do I need a new water pump? Why didn't it leak the first time I put water into it? Did I do something wrong?

Yes, these are NOOB questions, but this is my only transportation and I need to fix it.

ANY help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

The 'weep holes' in my 1996 seem to leak only in cooler weather.


I am looking towards the horizon and doing some research on getting this water pump replaced.

I also have a real slow oil leak.

I'd like to know if there is anything else I might want to replace, or look at replacing while doing the water pump job.

Maybe the timing cover gasket?

Anything else?

 

I have infiniti I30 96 and replaced my water pump couple of months ago. Didn't want to write about it right away, but decided to wait a while and make sure that everything is fine after the surgery.
So here are some of the details:
The car has about 125k on it. About 2-3 years ago I started hearing the pump whining when engine gets warm at low rpms, but didn't pay attention to it, just monitored it. But on one colder early morning in September I found the dreaded coolant puddle under the right side, which prompted me to take action. Since the puddle was reappearing on colder mornings, in October I started the swap.
1. Removed the idler pulley, belt, coolant expansion container, PS container and moved the hoses out of the way.
2 Using a 10mm socket and 10mm ratcheting wrench I removed the bolts that hold the caps for the tensioner and the pump.
3. I had a large paper clip prepared for the tensioner, tied to a string and to one of the hoses. I tried to push the tensioner in for about 15-20 minutes using a small flat screwdriver, but failed. Then I tried with a large flat one and succeeded on the first try. I think another person wrote about doing it with a long flat one too. So this is the way to go. Pushed the clip in the small hole of the tensioner and it kept it retracted.
4. Working very carefully removed the bolts on the tensioner with the 10 mm socket on 1/4 inch ratchet and got it out of there. There was enough space to work.
5. Turned the crank pulley counter clock wise about 20%.
6. Removed the 3 bolts on the water pump (again very carefully) with the ratchet. Then used the 2 M10x40X1.25 bolts that I bought from Canadian Tire and tied them by hand in 2 of the holes (the ones with threads in them) and the pump started coming out. Since the chain was loosened around the pump sprocket, I was able to pull the chain up and behind the pump and the pump came out. Since I forgot the step of draining the coolant before hand, lots of fluid came down from the pump housing and went down towards the crank and oil pan.
7. Opened the oil pan bolt and both oil and coolant started coming out from the pan. Kept draining for a day or so, to get rid of as much fluid from the oil as possible.
8. Tried just for fun to turn the crankshaft clock wise, but something was preventing it.Then I was able to pull on the chain from the hole where the tensioner is and the pull actually turned the camshafts and I got the chain loosened in there. I panicked for a day that I might have jumped in the process some teeth on the sprockets, but after thinking about it and playing with it more, I realized that there is a very high chance that everything is still in sync.
8. Pushed the new pump into place (gave me some hard time to make sure that it is in snugly).
9. Turned the crankshaft clockwise and was able to easily put back the tensioner. Again all this is with lots of care not to drop a bolt in chain compartment.
10. Cleaned the caps and installed them carefully with new gasket.
11. Put back the hoses, filled up the coolant, attached the belt, filled up the oil and was ready to fire. Called my family to witness the success or demise in the garage and for everybody's surprise it fired like it has been off for an hour.
12. Ran through the procedure of purging the air etc. and added more coolant. The noise was ugly, but not scary.
13. After that I changed the oil again, since I was sure that there is still coolant in some crevices. Was surprised to see how darkened the oil had become. Apparently it absorbs the coolant in it (which is one of the qualities of the oil).
Was anxious for couple of days to make sure no leak from the weeping hole, but so far so good.
All in all it took me 9 hours spread in 3 days.

 

Please Help!!
I've got an extra bolt after replacing the water pump. I've got no idea where it belongs.

The bolt is M10, Course threaded (courser than the right engine mount through nut), and has a 14MM top. It is approximately 24MM long.

I'll happily buy a beer for the person who can tell me where this belongs. (I live in Raleigh NC).

 

The only 14s you really touch are on the motor mount top support plate, and the bracket. Did you put the black support back on the mount and bracket? Both bolts back in the mount to engine bracket?

What exactly did you take apart to get to the pump?

If you can take a pic of the area, I can probably point out which is missing (if you removed the mount to make it easier to do the pump, more than likely this goes to the upper support plate).

 

I removed the PS reservoir, the engine mount, and the horn. I also removed both lift supports to allow me more room to work. I drained the coolant from the bottom of the radiator on the left side. I think everything else that I removed was absolutely required. (chain tensioner, window to tensioner and WP, WP itself, idler pulley).

The horn has another bolt about the same size that I set aside with the horn itself.

 

Have you checked the center bolt where the mount bolts up to the bracket on the engine? You should be able to see it through the hole in the upper bracket.

Other than that, I don't really see anything missing, nor can I think of anything in the area remotely related to the work you were doing.

 

pmohr- you are _THE_MAN_, it was exactly what you had suggested, the hidden bolt under the upper bracket. Thanks so much!!!

Let me know if you're ever near Raleigh for that beer!

 

Just replaced my water pump using "mishmosh" post as a guide - VERY HELPFUL TIP: I bought a $50 duralast pump from autozone and after three hours couldn't get it in. Went to nissan and bought $100 pump - it went right in. Both pumps look identical, but clearly there is something not right about the duralast. I could only get one screw to start threading - never two at a time. It just wouldn't go in the damn hole.

 

Hopefully this isn't considered hi-jacking. I just had my water pump replaced by a family friend, and upon start-up there was a loud almost ticking noise. I'm worried I have a bad tensioner, or the chain came off. He didn't remove the TC cover, instead went through the panels to access the pump, pinned the tensioner (except the tensioner fell apart while on the ground, and he manually put it back together). Suggestions on what to check first?!
The poster above said there was a nasty noise, and he did a air purge test. How do I do that test?

 

At initial start up the sound is horrific. I let mine run for 30 secs then shut it off, I tried a few more times starting it and the noise went away. I think the chain just has to regain tension since the guides and tensioner were moved.

 

Yes. The noise is result of the air in the tensioner, so for a while it will sound bad, but after the oil pushes the air out of it and it pushes the chain guide in place the noise disappears. Now saying that it does not mean that you will not hear clicking noise at low RPMs and with the hood open. I hear it from the chain going over the 2 top chain guides. This is result of the tensioner(s) spring sagging, so the chain is not tight any more after 130k. The noise disappears if you rev the engine, since the chain goes faster and kind of tightens itself.
If this is your case, don't worry it will last another 100k no problemo. Also if your relative did not drop the tensioner's spring or piston in the engine bay, than everything is fine - the tensioner is a very simple mechanism and there is no way you can put it together wrong.

 

hey man sorry my question has nothing to do with a water pump,
my first problem is i can't post my question so everyone can see it, but maybe you know if i can replace rear wheel hub bearing(non ABS) with basic tools or does it have to be done in a shop .? thanks

 

Basic tools and an easy replacement. FYI - Read the NOOB stickies to get a grasp on forum rule and etiquette. You'll save yourself a lot of flaming.

 

I just did the dreaded water pump replacement on a 1996 GLE with 212k. I would bet money the original water pump was in there.

I ran into a few snags which I didn't see covered anywhere else and thought I'd get them online for the next poor sap who does this.
1. Removing the motor mount looks painful and is not necessary, **BUT** the old water pump can't be removed without removing the motor mount bolt and lifting the engine an inch or so as shown in captainjohn's pictures above.
2. I had to crank the engine for some time, approx 30 seconds, while it sputtered and hold the throttle about 40% before it would start. I assume this is because the valves were slightly out of time with the slack chain. Once it ran for 30 seconds or so, it smoothed out and the chain quieted down.

Number one above cost me 3 hours of dejection. Number two scared the daylights out of me.

 

Fully agree with number 2.
But number 1 was not necessary at all on my car. Had lots of space. And my car is 96 (Infiiniti), so wonder why was the mount on the way?

 

hello everyone, so im a noob and i am pretty much half way through the process, but i think i may have messed up the thread of the three bolt entries for the water pump bolts with the m8 bolt i used to walk out the old water pump, i have no idea what to do.. help!

 

The water pump is held in by 3 bolts (One on the top, right and bottom). Remove those.

Screw in your (2x) M8 bolts in the top and bottom position where you've just remove earlier. Take turns tightening the two bolts, going back and forth between the two and the pump will come out. Don't forget to lift the chain off the water pump gear while you are tightening the bolts in!

The water pump will eventually fall out and you'll see coolant drain out as well.

Remove the (2x) M8 bolts and then you can remove the water pump.

 

I am halfway through the water pump install.

I have the Timing Chain Tensioner removed, the 3 water pump bolts are removed.

I am at the point where I need to rotate to crank pulley 20 degrees so I can have some slack in the chain to jack the pump out.

I just need confirmation that I am supposed to use a socket and breaker bar to rotate the crank pulley. I have never tackled a job that required me to rotate it. I know it is most likely an obvious answer, but wanted to check.

If anyone can provide that confirmation, and any other tips or tricks on rotating the pulley I would greatly appreciate it.

I have been reading the org almost daily over the past year, and thank all of you for the information, insight and confidence your posts provide. I have been researching the water pump replacement on here which is the only reason I have even attempted it.

Thanks again all!

 

Yes rotate slowly to 20 degress and then you should have slack on that side. Once the new pump is back on, rotate it back before cranking.

 

I hate to revive an old thread. Im changing my water pump in a few days. I have read all the threads regarding this procedure, watched PMohrs youtube video, and read the haynes manual.

2 posts above me AMcFarland asks.... "I just need confirmation that I am supposed to use a socket and breaker bar to rotate the crank pulley."

I thought I can just spin the pully counter clockwise ~20 degress with my hand?

Which is it?

I appreciate your help fellow Maximizers!!!

 

I've done the pump both possible ways - through the access holes and by removing the timing cover. And hands down I would definitely do the water pump by removing the timing cover again. Sure, it's a lot more work, but as far as the pump and timing chain goes, it's WAAYYYY easier. Plus, you don't have to worry about dropping anything in the timing case.

 

But to answer your question, if you're strong enough you can use your hands. It'll be easier with a breaker bar though.

 

You don't need a breaker bar, just use a ratchet. 19mm socket I believe.

 

You said that you read carefully every post regarding the water pump. Did you read this from my post above:

8. Tried just for fun to turn the crankshaft clock wise, but something was preventing it.Then I was able to pull on the chain from the hole where the tensioner is and the pull actually turned the camshafts and I got the chain loosened in there. I panicked for a day that I might have jumped in the process some teeth on the sprockets, but after thinking about it and playing with it more, I realized that there is a very high chance that everything is still in sync.

 

That 20* clockwise is incorrect. It's 20* counter clockwise to loosen the timing chain. 20* clock wise to reset when finished. And you can use a rachet and socket to turn it.

 

Thanks for the help you guys!!

svezarov, I read your #8. I never heard anyone do that way so I when I read you panicked, I was like I'm sure you did!!! hahaha. I'm glad it worked out for you tho, nice job.

Last question, no one mentions using a bunji cord for the tension guide, except Pmohr in his video. Did you guys use that method as well or no?

Most say no, but I am sure it serves a purpose to maybe make the job easier??? I want to make it a smooth and enjoyable process.

Thanks again!!

 

It's not necessary, it just helps to hold the chain guide out of the way when doing the tensioner. The only time I've done it like that is during the video and the time before it, really wish I would've figured out that trick a long time ago.