bummpiddy bump bump .... I wanna be in the "how to's" lol ....

 

STICKY

 

is this still not a sticky? Just read it again. Im going to be doing mine soon Jtz, hopefully get started this Friday.
Hows your tranny holding up with no diff shims? Thats the only part not in your write up that I'm still fuzzy about.
anyway, I'll probably post a thread of my own when I get started. I'm ready for this!

 

you know JtzMax, you can add this yourself to the stickies, just make a post in the mechanical thread with a link to this.

 

Good thinking ... I'll try it when I get a few minutes

 

Very nice write-up. I stumbled on this forum after thinking about selling my 97 Integra & buying a 4th gen Maxima (4 doors for the kids & a 6-cyl for myself)

I've done a similar rebuild on a Civic transmission before, and it's pretty incredible how similar the two are (I guess you can only make a FWD transmission so many ways, right?).

One thing I wanted to point out/emphasize: When driving on/in the new bearings, make sure the surface you're driving on is the one that makes contact with the part. For instance: driving on bearings to the shaft, use something that hits the inner-race. When driving bearings into the transmission housing, use something that hits the outer race. Doing it the other way can possibly cause damage to the bearings.

Anyhow, just wanted to say nice writeup, and toss in my $0.02. Maybe someday soon I can join you guys in ownership!

 

Soon mate .... and you won't be sorry!

As for the bearings, the 36mm socket works if you use it both ways, i'll explain. The side of the socket that the ratchet attaches to is used for the inner race and the nut side is used for the outter race. They are close in size, but they fit the bearings great!

Glad to have your post and experience. Hope you are able to get a Maxima so we can start helping you out too! In other words, welcome!

 

Awesome write up! I don't think I could ever do a job like that though. Too scared

 

I've not seen anyone address the preload on mainshaft bearings. I was wondering if there was enough room to reach thru the input shaft opening and check load on bearings by hand. Or even better, what do you think about using plasti gauge to find correct shim thickness? How wide an edge on bearing carrier? Nissan's tool for this is over $2000, but i know there has to be an economical way of determining the required shim. I'm no noob but haven't tore down a trans before but i figure a manual gearbox is a lot easier to work with than an auto. I just need some insight from someone who's tore this trans down before.

 

Check PM ^^^

 

I am close to being able to assemble my 5 speed. I am wondering where to get the tool shown in the shop manual to measure the size of the shims needed for the mainshaft bearings. I do not think paying 2Gs for the nissan tool is an option. Anyone know if any tool manufacturer has such a tool?

 

the solder crush method is your best bet. or rigging up a dial indicator but those arent necessarily "cheap" either.

 

hey Great write up about the wheel Bearing removal this will provble help me a little batter cuz i have to chenge my thanks

 

Hi so I am a new member and this is also my first transmission job. I have a FSM and your right it is quite vague. I have a few questions that I think you will be able to help with. Right now, I am in the middle of the disassembly process so I can replace the input shaft bearing. I have removed the pins and c clips on the 5 and 3&4 and now I am trying to pull both fork-rods out, but neither of them want to. They seem to get stuck as soon as the bottom c clip groove enters the fork. I was wondering if you had any tips/tricks as to how to remove the fork rods.

thanks a bunch in advance and great description of everything up top

 

Jim,
in both the FSM and Haynes it says to remove the bolts off the center member and lower the engine a little to help get the trans off, did you not have to do that?

My guess is that both places leave the transmission mount where it is and just detach it from the transmission, but that's a guess.

I'm in the middle of doing mine...what fun

 

No need to remove the X member at all. Not to mention that you'll need (and I'm not kiding) a 30" extension (or combo to equal) to get at the rear mount. PITA and not even needed. Just remove the mount (trans) from the fender wall and take it out. No need to support the engine, it'll hold easy with the other 3 mounts. The trans sits on a couple of pegs (from the block) to help hold it. I had to jar mine off, just wiggled the heck out of it till it came loose. Worst bolt for me was the shift rod support bolt - have fun.

Feel free to PM if you need anymore help, or post here.

 

yeah, I "borrowed" a 14mm offset box wrench from work just for that bolt. I would suggest anyone picking one up just for that bolt.

thanks, I couldn't figure out why someone would lower the engine aside from leaving the tranny mount there.

 

I guess if you like difficult work, you could lower the X member. LOL That offset 14 will come in handy!!!! I actually notched mine out with my dremal so I could get up there easy! lol I suppose an offset 14 would have probably been easier. Oh well .... lol

 

Jim,
Since I realized a long time ago I bought ES bushings for the cross member (have no idea why at this point...I'm guessing they were cheap), I decided to be ballsy and drop it.
Without a doubt, it makes getting the transmission off a lot easier. As long as you're confident with the jacks you're using, it's not as stressful as it would seem.

I'll make a thread with pics and reference yours when I get everything back together.

 

Sweet!

I just didn't drop the X member cause you don't really have to, but I'm sure it would give you a bit more working room, for sure. If you had new bushings (mounts), then, hey, now's a good time to do them I guess.

 

Ok Jim,
my updates and pics as promised

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...nsmission.html

 

Nice, thanks for adding to this. When I did mine, it wasn't the best of circumstances and it could have been done much better (or at least under better conditions).

 

I didn't have anyone helping me, so it took longer than you, but with a tranny jack, it's a reasonable expectation to get it done over a weekend. I thought I could work at night, and hang out with my kids in the day, but working at night you make a lot of mistakes simply because you can't see...then you have to fix things in the day.

 

Please don't clutter this thread up. If you are new - and you are NEW! - post in the "noobie" thread. There's no point at all to your post. You want replies, do it elsewhere.

 

Is there a book out there that says how many hour it will take to remove the transmaission and put it back in? if so how many hours is it? and for an average jo shamo how long would it take? any info would be greatful thanks

 

where did you get the bearing kit???

 

Max power ....

IIRC, falg time (book time) says ~4.5 hrs to remove and about the same to install. Please don't quote me on this, this is from memory and I'm getting old. lol For an average (non mechanic, but handy enough) person, it'll probably take you ~6 hrs to remove and about the same to install .... depending of if you have help or not. I didn't.

05 Alt ....

I got my bearing kit form GT Transmission in Georgia (USA). You can source them from various places, but this was the cheapest that I found. The bearings are NTN (Japan) and they're good.

Hope this will help a little.

Cheers!

 

thanks man i got mine at the shop and the guy is charging me 12 hours at $70 an hour to unstall and install remind you this guy is supposed to be a tranny specalist so if he is so good and does it for a living i wanna know where he got 12 hrs from... im no dummie im a crew chief on a race car work on cars all the time and i know he was blowing smoke i would have done it my self but with my jobs didnt have the time theis was my first garage expirenence and deff be my last what a crappy expirence i have had.....how much did you pay for the bearing and seal kit? im getting charged around $200 for the one he is installing in my transmission

 

I can pull the trans in 1.5 hours. Reinstall another 1.5 hours. Offset wrenches for the bottom transmission bolts are key!!

 

Max -

Yea ... you sir are gettin a hose job! Sorry to say ... and sounds like you know it too. Grrrrr .... butt munchin shops~!~ I payed around $200 or so for my kit, so at least that seems in order.

Lime -

I am like you, could probably do it (if I timed myself and didn't take all the smoke / drink breaks) in ~ 1.5 - 2 hrs .... from wheels up. I also don't have a lift so that makes it even more fun. I agree %100 on the ofset / angle (and wratchet) wrenchs. The biggest PITA for me was the shift support bracket, not much room to move around in there.

 

12 hours just to drop it and re-install it? Yeah, I don't agree with that at all, is that all he's doing? I mean if he's replacing your flywheel, or something else that would make sense, but not just that.

 

old thread, but i figured this would be the best place to ask...how will i be able to drain ALL of the old gear oil out? i need to service my trans for possible saving of my transmission. all help is appreciated

 

why? I'm guessing you have metal shavings in your tranny? I suppose you could flush it if you wanted somehow.
But if you have stuff rattling around in there, you are probably going to have to take it apart eventually.

 

i'm talking about my manual transmission, so i dont have a pan to remove to know about metal shavings. i just want to know if theres a way other than taking apart to remove all the gear oil

 

In the first part of this thread, I talk about draining the gear oil. There is a drain bolt on the pass side, just behind the shift selector rod. IIRC, it's a 12mm bolt and when you pull it, it will drain the gear oil. There's also a catch magnet inside there that should catch the metal shavings if there are any. You'd need to remove and open up the trans to get to this magnet. However, if you see metal in the oil draining, it would be a must at that point.

 

5*'s...great write up. will definitely come in handy. thanks

 

I don't recommend anyone rebuild this POS tranny without experience. I've rebuilt engines and done 3.5 swaps, but this is kicking my @$$. I put it all back together and could manually shift it, albiet with great difficulty. Once I put the case on with the detent bolts, it's now unshiftable.

G@d D#mmit!!!!!!

I even took all the pins out like 3 times and flooded the whole area with ATF, to no avail. I put the damn tranny on the car and filled it with gear oil and it still won't go into gear.

Save yourself time, money, and grief and just swap in the 6spd. Seriously, I've never seen or heard of a manual tranny with more problems. I'm on my 4th rebuild now in 2 different 4th gens. These things fail like clockwork every 60k miles. You can take that to a freaking bailed out bank.

I think I'd rather have a Ford AXOD or a Chrysler A604/41TE in this car than this POS 5 spd.

 

I agree .... sadly! It is a POS design / build. Mine is starting to talk to me again, it's been ~75k (mostly hi-way) miles since the rebuild. I'll not do it again, it will be a 6 spd swap FTW next time. I'm starting to source parts as I get the $$$ to do so. I have a couple so far, but still need more, much more.

Sorry you are having so much trouble. If one of the shift rod forks got bent, that will prevent it from shifting. Other than that, making sure you get the plugs / detent ***** back in corectly. My trans weeps from my detent bolts, and I don't care. It's minor, very much so ... but still a PITA when I see it.

 

OK, well I got it working. There were a couple of issues I ran into. I had scratched up the holes that the shift rods move up and down in. I used my dremel to "sand" it out and slightly enlarged the holes. I put assy. lube in them. I also found out that you should NOT have the tranny in neutral when putting the case together. You should put it in 2nd gear.

On a scale of 1-10 in difficulty, this is a 10. It's the most difficult thing I've ever done. But after taking the tranny apart (a few times) and understanding how everything works, I could do it in a couple of hours now.

It does feel good not to have been sodomized by the local tranny shop though for $1000.

 

it's not unheardof for the trans to end up with a gear engaged but without the selector (striking rod) actually being in that position. happened to me once. the result is a car that is stuck in gear but the shifter seems to be in neutral, and the inability to get the car out of gear or to shift in to another gear.

you can fix this by removing the reverse light sensor plug (the big one on the bottom that has the wires coming out of it) and popping things back in to position with a screwdriver. i had to do this once.