my valve covers sprung a leak and after examination i probably need to replace both. the front look easy enough but the back looks daunting. looks like i need to remove the intake manifold to get to the valve cover...so in additional to the two valve cover gaskets plus 6 spark plug seals, what else do i need to buy to finish the job? Upper intake manifold gasket (is that the right term to tell the nissan parts counter guy?)

thanks!

 

Replace the UIM gasket if you want, I've R&R'ed my UIM a few times with the original gasket and no problems.

If you want to do a little extra work while you've got the UIM off, go ahead and get TB and IACV gaskets, then take them off and clean those up if you never have before.

You'll need an EGR gasket as well.

 

I have to do the same so, valve cover gaskets, spark plug orings, egr gasket. My question is what kind of sealant to you use when installing the valve cover gaskets?

 

Some RTV at the corners. That's about it.

 

50.99 at on partsamerica website with free shipping for the entire setup. I got mine in today, gonna try to play with it this weekend.

 

mine is leaking too, but i'm waiting for the intake spacer kit to come out first.

 

Spark plug tubes and the valve cover bolt grommets as well.....but that may be included in the valve cover gasket kit. Ya might as well give your IM and TB a good interior scrubbing while you have them off. Pmohr....+1 on the TB, IACV & EGR gaskets.

 

And if you have any issues with the injectors, now would be a good time. Remove the lower intake and replace the knock sensor for a little more effort if you have big fat hands and can't do it the other way like me!

 

don't they have different kinds or colors of RTV gaskets? which should i buy?

 

Some RTV black or red will work.

 

My rear valve cover gasket has sprung a leak as well.
I took it to my local mechanic to have the axle and cv replaced and he told me about it.

I've never replaced a gasket on an engine before but I would really like to try. Other than a torque wrench and basic sockets and wrenches what other tools would I need.

From what he said it would be an expensive fix. I feel I have the ability to do it and in turn only have to shell out the money for the gaskets and torque wrench.

Also I have a haynes and pretty basic knowledge of the car.

 

No need for a torque wrench.

10 and 12mm sockets and ratchet (drive is your personal preference), flat head should be all you need. 12mm wrench would help.

Remove UIM, r&r valve cover, replace UIM. If you're **** about things you could replace the UIM-LIM gasket as well, though as it's thick rubber it likely wouldn't require it.

 

I always spray the gasket with copper spray, let it sit for a few minutes then atach the new gasket to the valve cover; this way when
i turn it over and align it with the bolts,
i don't risk the gasket of moving out of place and cousing a leak after
i put everything together. Gray silicone at the corners and where the two metal surfaces mate.

 

I usually replace the gaskets since they are cheap unless of course I forget to buy 'em or if they had them out of stock, then I reuse them. If they where leaking already in the first place, then I replace them right away.

 

The VC gaskets? Well yea, I'd assume he'd do it. Personally, I've had the front VC weep right near the timing cover, and I just sealed the whole (badly cracked) gasket with RTV and not a leak yet. That was ~a year ago.

But for pavelsmax, I'd imagine he'd replace it if he's going that far into an engine (relatively speaking, seeing as he apparently hasn't yet).

 

I read somewhere on the .org to be sure to torque the bolts on the F&R valve cover and UIM to spec. Just hand tighten and I will be ok?

And I do have what appears to be a slight leak on the pass side of the UIM so I might as well change that gasket while I have it off.

 

Nice and snug, although the 'proper' torque value by hand really only comes with a fair amount of experience (I've actually got fairly repeatable torque by hand when under 100 ft/lbs +/- 5, with an impact +/- 15...too much time spend under the hood).

What do you mean that you 'appear' to have one? The only thing that gasket seals against is air, no fluids of any kind.

 

here's what I mean on the UIM



and this is a leak on the rear valve cover correct?




I think you should be able to click to enlarge them. I just ran outside and took them. Also the car hasn't ran for 5 days because I was away and I need to replace the crankshaft position sensor

 

Congratulations, you're going to be replacing both VC gaskets.

Stain on the UIM looks like oil blown back from a leak in the front valve cover. Is it leaking from the back, right near the #2 injector?

 

You got it. Its got a slight leak all the way across the back of the front valve cover but right at the #2 injector it has quite a bit of oil build up.

One more question. I want to clean the area around the valve covers to be sure not to get any grime into the engine while the covers are off. What do you recomend to do this. Some simple green, water, and some elbow grease?
Or is there a better method?

Thanks a lot for your help.

 

Some brake cleaner will clean it up nicely, if it's just oil and grit. I wouldn't really worry about the small amount that may get in there, as long as it isn't between the cam and the bucket. If it does get in there, some more brake cleaner, and it'll eventually get caught in the filter or pickup screen.

No problem.

 

So I need to replace the valve cover gaskets front and back. I have a 97 maxima. Are 13270 and 13270B the part numbers for the front and rear valve cover gaskets, respectively? They are called rocker cover gaskets on courtesyparts.com, so I was confused.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...-p-127521.html

 

How can I prevent breaking a stubborn bolt when I want to replace the rocker cover gasket?

 

Impact gun / wrench will get those stubborn ones loos. Or hit it on the head with a hammer and pin to loosen it up and then take it off with a wrench.