Change what 1st? O2 or KS
Change what 1st? O2 or KS
Okay, I’ve searched and read many posts about KS, coil packs, and O2 sensors. My problems are two codes: KS and front O2 sensor. I have a 99 (with 80K) with the Hansin coils. I’ve check them with an Ohm meter and they are fine but have read that this diagnosis is no good (they must be under load when checking them). I plan on going to a junk yard and getting some used low mileage coils from a 98 and just replace all 6 coils and plugs to be done with that issue. My question is what should I replace 1st. KS or O2 sensor? I’ve been driving my car pretty conservative while the CEL has been on and get around 23-26MPG (mostly highway at 60-70MPH). Thanks for any input.
I must ask, if your codes are for O2 sensor & knock sensor, why are you concerned about the coils at this point? All 99 coils do not go bad, they are just more prone to fail than earlier ones.
More than likely, if you replace the correct oxygen sensor that the code is referring to, then the KS code will disappear and you will be fine. If not, replace the KS as well, then deal with the coils as the need arises.
More than likely, if you replace the correct oxygen sensor that the code is referring to, then the KS code will disappear and you will be fine. If not, replace the KS as well, then deal with the coils as the need arises.
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,572
From: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Whoa whoa whoa! The Hanshin cils are the good ones! It's the mitsubishi's that '99 owners would want to swap out.
As for order, you should replace the o2 and test the damn knock-sensor! Test it test it test it. Just unplug the subharness, connect an ohm meter to the prong running to it with the clear wire, and the other side to ground. It takes 2 seconds. Running 87 on an 80* day can cause it. But don't just clear it without testing unless you re-scan because it is a ghost code, that's in reference to post #2.
As for order, you should replace the o2 and test the damn knock-sensor! Test it test it test it. Just unplug the subharness, connect an ohm meter to the prong running to it with the clear wire, and the other side to ground. It takes 2 seconds. Running 87 on an 80* day can cause it. But don't just clear it without testing unless you re-scan because it is a ghost code, that's in reference to post #2.
So I have the desired coils? I was sure that I read on several ocations that the Hansins are the bad ones.
Thanks for the info. I'll replace the O2 and check the KS. Makes better sense than just replacing a part that could still be good.
Thanks for the info. I'll replace the O2 and check the KS. Makes better sense than just replacing a part that could still be good.
Whoa whoa whoa! The Hanshin cils are the good ones! It's the mitsubishi's that '99 owners would want to swap out.
As for order, you should replace the o2 and test the damn knock-sensor! Test it test it test it. Just unplug the subharness, connect an ohm meter to the prong running to it with the clear wire, and the other side to ground. It takes 2 seconds. Running 87 on an 80* day can cause it. But don't just clear it without testing unless you re-scan because it is a ghost code, that's in reference to post #2.
As for order, you should replace the o2 and test the damn knock-sensor! Test it test it test it. Just unplug the subharness, connect an ohm meter to the prong running to it with the clear wire, and the other side to ground. It takes 2 seconds. Running 87 on an 80* day can cause it. But don't just clear it without testing unless you re-scan because it is a ghost code, that's in reference to post #2.
I'm not positive but I believe the factory service manual states a bad one reads 0 and a good one reads "not zero"?
I thought that my coils were bad for three reasons. One it's a 99, two occationaly on it runs like it's misfiring (flashing CEL), and three is has some flat spots at certain RPMs. Concerning the flashing CEL, It flashed for about 5miles, and then stayed on. I tried to pull the codes my self but they made no sense. I reset the ecu and the light came back on, so I went to auto Zone to pull the codes only the KS and O2 showed up. I get pretty decent gas mileage so I don't suspect my KS. The plugs were changes about 30K, so I'll change the 02 and plugs and see where that gets me. Any other ideas are welcome.
I thought that my coils were bad for three reasons. One it's a 99, two occationaly on it runs like it's misfiring (flashing CEL), and three is has some flat spots at certain RPMs. Concerning the flashing CEL, It flashed for about 5miles, and then stayed on. I tried to pull the codes my self but they made no sense. I reset the ecu and the light came back on, so I went to auto Zone to pull the codes only the KS and O2 showed up. I get pretty decent gas mileage so I don't suspect my KS. The plugs were changes about 30K, so I'll change the 02 and plugs and see where that gets me. Any other ideas are welcome.
Sometimes an o2 code will also trip the KS code. It happened to me and I found out the hard way and replaced a virtually new knock sensor.
Change the o2, give it a few days (100+ miles) and report back to us.
Change the o2, give it a few days (100+ miles) and report back to us.
Flashing CEL is never good. You failed to mention that little item in your initial post. That condition is almost always associated with a misfire condition. In that case, you should have been able to get a code telling you which cylinder is misfiring. Try again with a different reader.
What's really strange about the flashing CEL is that it only happened once. Right after start up I accidently popped the clutch and stalled it out. Started it back up and was really running rough (which has happened a couple of time before but without the flashing CEL) for a couple of miles. This is when the flashing CEL happened.
Where else can I get the codes pulled?
Where else can I get the codes pulled?
yeah the same thing happene to me right when I got my max. I changed the 02 sensor first and the knock sensor code went away. Maybe a month later the knock sensor code came back so if you have money I would change them both but both may eventually go bad sooner or later if they havent been replaced yet.
change the o2 sensor, get a 470k ohm resistor for the KS. With the resistor you'll get your timing back, you'll just have to act as the knock sensor yourself. It's not gonna knock though...
Well, I'm still waiting on my o2 sensor and decided to check my injectors and KS with an ohm meter. All the injectors tested fine but could not get any reading from my KS. Now I'm wondering if my 02 sensor is good and should have replaced my KS first.
I've had my car for over a year now and can't pin point why it would misfire only three times.
I've had my car for over a year now and can't pin point why it would misfire only three times.
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