pavelsmax

iTrader: (12)

I have been having starting problems so I removed my starter today to clean following the instructions on motorvate.com


I disassembled the entire starter cleaned out the old grease and applied new grease.

When I reconnected everything and went to connect my battery the starter motor immediately started running.

What did I do, I'm pretty sure I didn't mix up any connections and I reconnected everything properly. To my knowledge.

Thanks

I feel like an idiot

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Did you re-check the connections? Sounds like you put the B+ directly on the post to the starter motor, as opposed to the positive terminal dedicated for it. The motor should only be connected directly to the solenoid, IIRC.

pavelsmax

iTrader: (12)

I just double checked my connections. They are correct.

I looked at pictures of new starters for sale and My connections match those.
There is a wire at the top of the solenoid that runs to a harness. to the lower left of that is the wire that connects to the motor. To the lower right is the battery connection.



Could the solenoid be constantly engaged based on something I did.
Everything bolted up easily and seemed correct.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Stock starter or aftermarket? I've seen some aftermarket started that have the solenoids flipped around, making the connections 'backwards'.

pavelsmax

iTrader: (12)

Its labeled as a rebuild. I think my mom had it done about 7 years ago before I bought the car from her.

I guess I'll flop the connections to see what happens.

pavelsmax

iTrader: (12)

Ok so I'm still stuck without a running car but I've made progress.

Yesterday when i cleaned the starter i must of messed something up in the motor cuz the connections were right and when i connected my battery it immediately started running.

So now I have a refurb starter I picked up from advance today and I installed everything and when i go to turn on the car it runs but does not engage the fly wheel. I am thinking I may have fried the inhibitor relay. Of course the inhibitor relay is the only relay of that type in our cars. I have a buddy with a nissan coming over to see if he has the same relay and I will try it.

Does this make sense could I of fried some other part of the inhibitor system or is the relay the only part.

Thanks
Danny

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Inhibit relay would keep it from cranking at all, wouldn't do what you're describing. Sounds like the solenoid isn't kicking the gear out to engage the flywheel.

pavelsmax

iTrader: (12)

Ok yea now that I look at the wiring diagram I see that.

Yea the solenoid isn't kicking the gear to the flywheel but when i took to back to advance to bench test it i watched the gear kick over. So its got to be a car problem.

Well in can wait till tomorrow to figure it out.

Thanks for your help pmohr you've been dominating my threads the past few days lol

pavelsmax

iTrader: (12)

Bump

Any idea on what is not causing the solenoid to bump the gear over to the flywheel.

I had it bench tested at watched it bump over and hold constant power so I know the starter is good.

Where is the inhibitor switch located? Could that be causing it to not bump over?

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

No inhibitor switch would not cause this problem. Take a good look at you inhibitor relay and the socket it mounts to to make sure it is ok. Remove it and maybe swap it out.

The Maxima start circuit either provides 12VDC power to the starter or not. It does not have any control over kicking the gear to the fly wheel. That appears to be totally a starter function.

The only thing I could think of is if the starter was not getting enough juice due to bad connection at starter, battery or inhibit circuit. But that seems unlikely. I would consider trying another starter.

You can also try jumping the starter terminals with a screw driver or such to start it, I have heard of people doing that, this would eliminate most of the Maxima start circuit as a cause.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

From the way you described your earlier problem of starting as soon as you connect the battery that sure sounds like a miswire. I'm looking at the FSM ( Have not seen my starter hookups) there are only three wires. The thin brown/red or blk/red wire activates a plunger. The two thick wires red and black? provide power to the starter. If you somehow short the two thick wires your starter would turn as soon as you connect the battery.

pavelsmax

iTrader: (12)

Well turns out the problem was the new starter I bought from advance auto parts. Like I said I took the starter to advance after it didn't work and had it bench tested and I watched it rev up and kick over with no voltage drop. Apparently that does not prove it is a working starter. I'm thinking maybe it wasn't level on the bench and the gear only kicked over while spinning with the assistance of gravity.

My idle was a little low according to my mechanic I hadn't noticed it and that is why I was forced to give it a little gas on start up.

I'm picking the car up at noon and can't wait to have a car back.

I'm contemplating how much longer I'm gonna keep it now with 188,xxx on her and some things starting to go wrong (valve cover leaks, extra bumpy ride, tires wearing) and reliability becoming an issue. It sucks cuz i just got a leather heated interior, 97 headlights, chrome inner door handles and a few other goodies to dress her up.

I have the urge to buy something new with a manual tranny possibly a subaru wrx wagon. I guess I'll drive it a little longer and start the search.

Thanks for everyones help with this starting issue.

Danny