SuDZ went shopping
#1
SuDZ went shopping
Hey Guys,
I decided to do some shopping today. Here is my list of what I picked up from Greg.
- Clear Corners
- UR Pulley
- Short Throw Shifter
Also I am going to order a Y pipe sometime this week.
Here is my questions, other than the clear corners how tough is it to install the rest? I figured I was taking off my belts for my 60K tune up anyway so why not do the pulley at the same time... is it basicly that easy to do? I saw the install pics of the STS but how long does it take? The Y -p ipe from what I have heard basicly is remove a few bolts and a sensor then replace the pipe,bolts,sencor with the new one... is that all really?
How much difference do you think I will feel? cant wait to get it all in and going. I think my next step is looking at suspension. Any recomendations on that?
SuDZ
I decided to do some shopping today. Here is my list of what I picked up from Greg.
- Clear Corners
- UR Pulley
- Short Throw Shifter
Also I am going to order a Y pipe sometime this week.
Here is my questions, other than the clear corners how tough is it to install the rest? I figured I was taking off my belts for my 60K tune up anyway so why not do the pulley at the same time... is it basicly that easy to do? I saw the install pics of the STS but how long does it take? The Y -p ipe from what I have heard basicly is remove a few bolts and a sensor then replace the pipe,bolts,sencor with the new one... is that all really?
How much difference do you think I will feel? cant wait to get it all in and going. I think my next step is looking at suspension. Any recomendations on that?
SuDZ
#2
with the y-pipe, it was a biccch to get mine on. make shure you have a 14mm deep socket with extensions. you will feel noticable gains. you dont need to replace any bolts or anything just the gaskets.
#3
Originally posted by Nismo
with the y-pipe, it was a biccch to get mine on. make shure you have a 14mm deep socket with extensions. you will feel noticable gains. you dont need to replace any bolts or anything just the gaskets.
with the y-pipe, it was a biccch to get mine on. make shure you have a 14mm deep socket with extensions. you will feel noticable gains. you dont need to replace any bolts or anything just the gaskets.
SuDZ
#5
when you remove the O2 sensors from the Y-pipe...be very careful not to strip them...unless you want to buy a new one from the dealership. I think there are two O2 sensors that need to be removed...from the stock Y and placed in your new Y...
#7
Originally posted by QikEnuf
Why do you say that?
Why do you say that?
no one on this forum has proven to me that they can run better times with the UDP.. all of them have run higher times...
#8
Interesting....I didn't really think it could gain or lose hp, I thought it would free up the horsepower, being that the UDP is lighter in weight.
I have yet to even run my car on the track so I can't give you any times.
I have yet to even run my car on the track so I can't give you any times.
Originally posted by SprintMax
it gains 1 hp and also loses 1 hp.. its a waste of money..
no one on this forum has proven to me that they can run better times with the UDP.. all of them have run higher times...
it gains 1 hp and also loses 1 hp.. its a waste of money..
no one on this forum has proven to me that they can run better times with the UDP.. all of them have run higher times...
#9
UDP you need new shorter belts.
Y-pipe, soak in liquid wrench and heave like a ****.
Get anti seize, put it on the threads of the O2 sensor when you put it back into the new Y-pipe or you'll be sorry (I've learned).
Also, don't waste time trying to remove the clips to the O2 sensor (it's a biyach) just unscrew them and leave the wire spun up, so when you put them in the new Y-pipe they'll be normal.
Y-pipe, soak in liquid wrench and heave like a ****.
Get anti seize, put it on the threads of the O2 sensor when you put it back into the new Y-pipe or you'll be sorry (I've learned).
Also, don't waste time trying to remove the clips to the O2 sensor (it's a biyach) just unscrew them and leave the wire spun up, so when you put them in the new Y-pipe they'll be normal.
#10
Re: SuDZ went shopping
My advice on the STS:
If you try them yourself and can't budge them, go to a muffler shop and ask them if they'll replace the bolts on the cat for you. I got this done for 20 bucks because I couldn't break them.
Also, while you can do almost everything by yourself, you'll need someone's help at the end to hold the boot in place inside the console. Not the shifter boot, the rubber boot you'll find under it. It has bolts that come through the floor of the car and you must put nuts on them while underneath the car. It's much easier to have someone in the driver's seat pushing those bolts down through the floor. You'll see what I mean.
When adjusting the ball on the shifter, don't send it TOO high. The higher it is, the shorter the shift, but I set mine so high that it was actually difficult to shift (it has since loosened up, so if you can bear a month of difficult, notchy shifting, be my guest.). When I set my ball, it was up PAST the threads (not all the way, of course, because some of the ball was still on the threads, maybe half of it). All of this will make more sense once you have it apart and see what I mean.
More advice. Pay very very close attention to the way the pieces fit together on the shifter you remove -- so that you can replace them properly. Some parts form the new shifter look slightly different form the equivalent parts on the stock shifter, but you'll see that they serve the same functions. Again, this will all make more sense when you have the parts in front of you to compare.
Do this in daylight. Now that I know how to do this, I could do it in an hour or an hour-and-a-half. But that first time, it took me quite a while and I ended up on my back in the driveway after dark with a propped-up flashlight. Give yourself enough time to learn how to figure it out. It'll be much faster with a friend, because you won't waste time looking for tools or nuts and bolts.
If you try them yourself and can't budge them, go to a muffler shop and ask them if they'll replace the bolts on the cat for you. I got this done for 20 bucks because I couldn't break them.
Also, while you can do almost everything by yourself, you'll need someone's help at the end to hold the boot in place inside the console. Not the shifter boot, the rubber boot you'll find under it. It has bolts that come through the floor of the car and you must put nuts on them while underneath the car. It's much easier to have someone in the driver's seat pushing those bolts down through the floor. You'll see what I mean.
When adjusting the ball on the shifter, don't send it TOO high. The higher it is, the shorter the shift, but I set mine so high that it was actually difficult to shift (it has since loosened up, so if you can bear a month of difficult, notchy shifting, be my guest.). When I set my ball, it was up PAST the threads (not all the way, of course, because some of the ball was still on the threads, maybe half of it). All of this will make more sense once you have it apart and see what I mean.
More advice. Pay very very close attention to the way the pieces fit together on the shifter you remove -- so that you can replace them properly. Some parts form the new shifter look slightly different form the equivalent parts on the stock shifter, but you'll see that they serve the same functions. Again, this will all make more sense when you have the parts in front of you to compare.
Do this in daylight. Now that I know how to do this, I could do it in an hour or an hour-and-a-half. But that first time, it took me quite a while and I ended up on my back in the driveway after dark with a propped-up flashlight. Give yourself enough time to learn how to figure it out. It'll be much faster with a friend, because you won't waste time looking for tools or nuts and bolts.
#11
Re: Re: SuDZ went shopping
Originally posted by Maxwell
It'll be much faster with a friend, because you won't waste time looking for tools or nuts and bolts.
It'll be much faster with a friend, because you won't waste time looking for tools or nuts and bolts.
Thanks for the suggestions guys.
Sprint maybe I will try some runs with my g-tech about the UDP..
SuDZ
#12
Re: Re: Re: SuDZ went shopping
don't get me started on Gtech
Originally posted by SuDZ
Actually my dad is gonna be helping me with some of these mods just to get things moving quick and easy. Plus he is better at this than me... i am still trying to learn stuff but getting there.
Thanks for the suggestions guys.
Sprint maybe I will try some runs with my g-tech about the UDP..
SuDZ
Actually my dad is gonna be helping me with some of these mods just to get things moving quick and easy. Plus he is better at this than me... i am still trying to learn stuff but getting there.
Thanks for the suggestions guys.
Sprint maybe I will try some runs with my g-tech about the UDP..
SuDZ
#14
Originally posted by SprintMax
it gains 1 hp and also loses 1 hp.. its a waste of money..
no one on this forum has proven to me that they can run better times with the UDP.. all of them have run higher times...
it gains 1 hp and also loses 1 hp.. its a waste of money..
no one on this forum has proven to me that they can run better times with the UDP.. all of them have run higher times...
Voila! Proven. The temperature was within 5 degrees, humidity was within 5%. That's just as good as running on the same day.
#15
catback probably drop .4 and the udp increased .1
so where is the new time? you had that 14.5 before the UDP
so where is the new time? you had that 14.5 before the UDP
Originally posted by ejj5875
I have. Same weather conditions I dropped .3 seconds with the addition of the catback and UDP.
Voila! Proven. The temperature was within 5 degrees, humidity was within 5%. That's just as good as running on the same day.
I have. Same weather conditions I dropped .3 seconds with the addition of the catback and UDP.
Voila! Proven. The temperature was within 5 degrees, humidity was within 5%. That's just as good as running on the same day.
#17
Re: Hey Sprint
Originally posted by ptatohed
Try smiling, laughing and being happy instead of hating this and that. Who knows, you may just like it!
Try smiling, laughing and being happy instead of hating this and that. Who knows, you may just like it!
and that line you pulled on me? sounded like something a gay man would tell a straight man
#18
Re: Re: Hey Sprint
Originally posted by SprintMax
why do you keep following me around newbie?
and that line you pulled on me? sounded like something a gay man would tell a straight man
why do you keep following me around newbie?
and that line you pulled on me? sounded like something a gay man would tell a straight man
Now for the UDP, I said it before and I'm gonna say it again, you can't lose HP with the UDP unless you put it on backwards or something.
Maybe I will be dynoing a UDP in a little bit, that will put a end to this .
#19
Originally posted by SprintMax
catback probably drop .4 and the udp increased .1
so where is the new time? you had that 14.5 before the UDP
catback probably drop .4 and the udp increased .1
so where is the new time? you had that 14.5 before the UDP
Dave B already proved that a b-pipe drops about .15...so estimate high at .2. That means that the UDP dropped one. NO WAY a catback has the same effect as a Y-PIPE, especially if its one of the last mods that you do.
But, I'm sure you've driven a car with both the UDP and the stock one, so I'm sure you're speaking from experience. Strange that everyone that has one loves it.
However, being as smart as you are, I'm sure you can come up with a mathmatical reason that the UDP would have you loose power. Or can you?
PS, I had a 14.6. I wouldn't really consider at 14.599 a 14.5
#20
Licensed to Spell
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Murrieta (southern California)
Posts: 4,521
Re: Re: Hey Sprint
why do you keep following me around newbie?
Huh???
and that line you pulled on me? sounded like something a gay man would tell a straight man
Hmmm, I wouldn't know anything about gay men, how would you?
Huh???
and that line you pulled on me? sounded like something a gay man would tell a straight man
Hmmm, I wouldn't know anything about gay men, how would you?
#21
Re: Re: Re: Hey Sprint
i have seen a couple movies with you and your kind
Originally posted by ptatohed
why do you keep following me around newbie?
Huh???
and that line you pulled on me? sounded like something a gay man would tell a straight man
Hmmm, I wouldn't know anything about gay men, how would you?
why do you keep following me around newbie?
Huh???
and that line you pulled on me? sounded like something a gay man would tell a straight man
Hmmm, I wouldn't know anything about gay men, how would you?
#22
Everyone that has it loves it because it revs more happy.. thats a butt dyno.. doesn't mean anything..
i stand by my claims
i stand by my claims
Originally posted by ejj5875
Um, no.
Dave B already proved that a b-pipe drops about .15...so estimate high at .2. That means that the UDP dropped one. NO WAY a catback has the same effect as a Y-PIPE, especially if its one of the last mods that you do.
But, I'm sure you've driven a car with both the UDP and the stock one, so I'm sure you're speaking from experience. Strange that everyone that has one loves it.
However, being as smart as you are, I'm sure you can come up with a mathmatical reason that the catback would have you loose power. Or can you?
PS, I had a 14.6. I would really consider at 14.599 a 14.5
Um, no.
Dave B already proved that a b-pipe drops about .15...so estimate high at .2. That means that the UDP dropped one. NO WAY a catback has the same effect as a Y-PIPE, especially if its one of the last mods that you do.
But, I'm sure you've driven a car with both the UDP and the stock one, so I'm sure you're speaking from experience. Strange that everyone that has one loves it.
However, being as smart as you are, I'm sure you can come up with a mathmatical reason that the catback would have you loose power. Or can you?
PS, I had a 14.6. I would really consider at 14.599 a 14.5
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