Can I tow a 4x8 or 5x8 trailer with my Max?
03-29-2008, 08:50 AM
#1
Can I tow a 4x8 or 5x8 trailer with my Max?
Well, I'm moving and need to figure out how to get my stuff home. After pricing moving trucks and figuring in gas and a dolly for towing my car, it looks like It'll be a ball and pocket breaker.
I have no qualms in trimming it down to my essentials so I can tow an inexpensive trailer instead but the question is, can I tow one of these 4x8 or 5x8 trailers with my Max and not have my tranny explode on me?
http://www.uhaul.com/trailers/
From what I've read, the Max is rated to pull 1,000 pounds and has a tongue weight of 110 pounds and these trailers are under that. Not by much but they are. Obviously, when I load them up I will exceed the 1k pound limit, but in real world applications, regardless of Nissan's specs, think my Max can handle it? Has any one towed one these bastards before?
I have no qualms in trimming it down to my essentials so I can tow an inexpensive trailer instead but the question is, can I tow one of these 4x8 or 5x8 trailers with my Max and not have my tranny explode on me?
http://www.uhaul.com/trailers/
From what I've read, the Max is rated to pull 1,000 pounds and has a tongue weight of 110 pounds and these trailers are under that. Not by much but they are. Obviously, when I load them up I will exceed the 1k pound limit, but in real world applications, regardless of Nissan's specs, think my Max can handle it? Has any one towed one these bastards before?
03-29-2008, 11:14 AM
#5
I know it. I'll just have to take a gander at the trailers and see how much stuff I'm bringing and go from there. I feel pretty confident in my car, as she's well maintained and runs pretty strong. I'm going to clean my fuel injectors and TB and will finish my 3 ATF drain and fills before I go too, so hopefully that will make it that much more possible.
03-29-2008, 03:00 PM
#6
here ya go.
How do I put a trailer hitch on my car
This may be of some interest to a few of you, who may own jet ski's, motorcycles, bikes or just would like to tow a light trailer from time to time. I put on a Hidden Hitch (www.hiddenhitch.com) 60945 hitch. The Maxima is capable of taking a class 1 hitch. While the hitch can take 2000lb/200lb trailer weight/tongue weight, the owner's manual states that the car is capable of 1000lb/100lb trailer/tongue. I choose the 60945 hitch because is a drill less design, that uses existing bolts and holes to fit on, and it has the detachable 1 1/4" receiver that can be used with a bike rack with an extension. It weighs I'd estimate at 30-40 pounds, so it will increase the weight on the car, but it isn't too bad. When the bar and ball are not installed, the hitch is almost completely invisible, except for the receiver poking out from where under the license tag is. Put on the included cover and it almost vanishes. Reese, Dalan and Draw-Tite also make hitches.
Installation was fairly straight forwards, needing 12 mm, 14 mm, 17mm sockets (6 point) and a torque wrench. Remove the 2 rear tow hooks, and let the muffler hang down. Then remove the right muffler bracket. The hitch will replace one of the muffler hangers. Bolt the hitch into place, and then torque it down. Reinstall the muffler and thats it. One step did give me a pain though, on the right side of the hitch, you need to fish through a carrage bolt with a rectangular reinforcer plate through the unibody frame rail of the car. It provides you with 3 sets of these including the bolt feeders, as the 00-02 maxima's need 3, while the 95-99 only need 1. I wound up accidentally stripping one of the right hand welded nuts for the tow hooks in the unibody frame rail. What I wound up doing, was to drill out the nut entirely, use touch up paint on the open wound, and then fish another bolt with reinforcer plate through.
Fishing the bolt and reinforcer plate through is kinda stickly, but its pretty easy once I figured out the trick. Open up the trunk, and unbolt the 2 14 mm bolts that are on the trunk floor covered under 2 plastic pop covers. This will give you increased clerance. Then, while you are under the car, either use your foot or jack to hold the bumper (the actual steel bumper) up, now that the bolts are no longer holding them in place. This will prevent you from alot of swearing.
For those with aftermarket mufflers the hitch may not clear the muffler tip. My OEM muffler has a 4" tip put on by me, and I had to slightly modify the tip. The tip contacted the hitch by maybe 1/8".
I also added large washers in addition to the ones provided with the hitch, as I found the included washers were getting bent in the hitch slots.
My car had no problem towing a trailer. Where it could use work was the suspension. My stock SE's rear suspension (with probably blown struts) had a difficult time dealing with the trailer on the highway over bumps. Stiffer springs and shocks could definately help. My car was pretty trailer ready, mostly from getting it race ready. It had performance mods to increase the torque and horsepower. It also has an ACT clutch and Quaife differential to get off the line. I have a polyurethane motor mount to hold the engine down in place. The rear sway bar helps keep the back end control. My transmission parts are cryogenically treated for strength. While I am not yet lowered, a aftermarket suspension will definately help as well, with stiff springs and shocks. Automatics should consider a transmission cooler.
As for lights, the installation was also pretty straight forwards. I used a universal wiring harness kit from my old Toyota Camry. It has 5 inputs, brake, tail/park, right turn, left turn and ground. Ground is self explanatory. The others, just identify which wires go to which bulb and splice into the wires using tap slices. I recommend splicing at the left tail light, since all the wires including the wire to the right turn wire are all there. If you have your front corners rewired (97-99 models), you may need to increase the "tail" fuse from 7.5 to 10 amps. I have not had any problems with mine. Since I only use my trailer once in a while, I opted to keep the wiring in the trunk and run it out the trunk lid when needed.
I consider this a wonderful "bolt on mod" that increases the usefulness and utility of your car.
This may be of some interest to a few of you, who may own jet ski's, motorcycles, bikes or just would like to tow a light trailer from time to time. I put on a Hidden Hitch (www.hiddenhitch.com) 60945 hitch. The Maxima is capable of taking a class 1 hitch. While the hitch can take 2000lb/200lb trailer weight/tongue weight, the owner's manual states that the car is capable of 1000lb/100lb trailer/tongue. I choose the 60945 hitch because is a drill less design, that uses existing bolts and holes to fit on, and it has the detachable 1 1/4" receiver that can be used with a bike rack with an extension. It weighs I'd estimate at 30-40 pounds, so it will increase the weight on the car, but it isn't too bad. When the bar and ball are not installed, the hitch is almost completely invisible, except for the receiver poking out from where under the license tag is. Put on the included cover and it almost vanishes. Reese, Dalan and Draw-Tite also make hitches.
Installation was fairly straight forwards, needing 12 mm, 14 mm, 17mm sockets (6 point) and a torque wrench. Remove the 2 rear tow hooks, and let the muffler hang down. Then remove the right muffler bracket. The hitch will replace one of the muffler hangers. Bolt the hitch into place, and then torque it down. Reinstall the muffler and thats it. One step did give me a pain though, on the right side of the hitch, you need to fish through a carrage bolt with a rectangular reinforcer plate through the unibody frame rail of the car. It provides you with 3 sets of these including the bolt feeders, as the 00-02 maxima's need 3, while the 95-99 only need 1. I wound up accidentally stripping one of the right hand welded nuts for the tow hooks in the unibody frame rail. What I wound up doing, was to drill out the nut entirely, use touch up paint on the open wound, and then fish another bolt with reinforcer plate through.
Fishing the bolt and reinforcer plate through is kinda stickly, but its pretty easy once I figured out the trick. Open up the trunk, and unbolt the 2 14 mm bolts that are on the trunk floor covered under 2 plastic pop covers. This will give you increased clerance. Then, while you are under the car, either use your foot or jack to hold the bumper (the actual steel bumper) up, now that the bolts are no longer holding them in place. This will prevent you from alot of swearing.
For those with aftermarket mufflers the hitch may not clear the muffler tip. My OEM muffler has a 4" tip put on by me, and I had to slightly modify the tip. The tip contacted the hitch by maybe 1/8".
I also added large washers in addition to the ones provided with the hitch, as I found the included washers were getting bent in the hitch slots.
My car had no problem towing a trailer. Where it could use work was the suspension. My stock SE's rear suspension (with probably blown struts) had a difficult time dealing with the trailer on the highway over bumps. Stiffer springs and shocks could definately help. My car was pretty trailer ready, mostly from getting it race ready. It had performance mods to increase the torque and horsepower. It also has an ACT clutch and Quaife differential to get off the line. I have a polyurethane motor mount to hold the engine down in place. The rear sway bar helps keep the back end control. My transmission parts are cryogenically treated for strength. While I am not yet lowered, a aftermarket suspension will definately help as well, with stiff springs and shocks. Automatics should consider a transmission cooler.
As for lights, the installation was also pretty straight forwards. I used a universal wiring harness kit from my old Toyota Camry. It has 5 inputs, brake, tail/park, right turn, left turn and ground. Ground is self explanatory. The others, just identify which wires go to which bulb and splice into the wires using tap slices. I recommend splicing at the left tail light, since all the wires including the wire to the right turn wire are all there. If you have your front corners rewired (97-99 models), you may need to increase the "tail" fuse from 7.5 to 10 amps. I have not had any problems with mine. Since I only use my trailer once in a while, I opted to keep the wiring in the trunk and run it out the trunk lid when needed.
I consider this a wonderful "bolt on mod" that increases the usefulness and utility of your car.
03-29-2008, 03:31 PM
#8
03-29-2008, 04:17 PM
#9
03-29-2008, 06:12 PM
#11
"Do research you lazy bastard!" (then punch myself in the face)
But yeah, it looks like the B&M cooler could be right up my alley. Especially with the bypass feature. I'm moving north and don't want my fluid getting too cold so I think and hope this feature will prevent that. Not sure if the other coolers have the bypass feature too or perform any better but it sounds like this is the one unless there's something better out there? Is there?
If not, I believe the 5 3/4 x 11 will do the trick.
well off i go to figure out what kind of task this is and how much it will cost to have someone put it in for me. I know I ain't doing it.
03-29-2008, 08:08 PM
#12
I would assume it's common sense, but obviously keep to a driving style that prevents unnecessary 3-4 shifts. You will be pulling quite a bit so i doubt the maxy will be able to travel in 4 without struggling. Overdrive FTW!
03-29-2008, 08:32 PM
#13
Yes sir, gonna take it easy and keep it as smooth as possible. Stay in a same gear as long as possible. Staying in the right lane FTW too!
03-29-2008, 10:12 PM
#15
03-30-2008, 10:52 AM
#17
By turning it off (yellow light on) I will avoid those 3-4 shifts, cause I've dropped 4th all together but at decent highway speeds (55-60 max) won't I be fairly high in the rpms. I have a feeling it will also be a gas chugger. Opinions?
I am going to get a tranny cooler put on btw. Seems like it would be a really smart thing to do.
03-30-2008, 04:38 PM
#18
Overdrive off on automatic transmissions. Yes, you will use more gas, but I'd rather spend an extra $20 on a trip than a grand or so on a new tranny. This isn't just on a Max, but any vehicle you are towing with. Even with a cooler, it's the smart thing to do.
03-30-2008, 06:13 PM
#19
Aye. Thanks for the tip!
03-31-2008, 01:50 AM
#20
Tranny cooler or not, do yourself, your wallet, and your dear Maxima Tranny a favor and change your tranny fluid ASAP after the tow. The added heat that is generated during towing burns up even the best of tranny fluids faster than you can say "FXXKING SXXT!! MY TRANNY JUST WENT!!"
Also, depending on how old your tranny fluid is thats in there now, you might want to change before and after the tow. **$50.00 or so now, may very well save you $1000.00 in the near future......
Also, depending on how old your tranny fluid is thats in there now, you might want to change before and after the tow. **$50.00 or so now, may very well save you $1000.00 in the near future......
03-31-2008, 05:55 AM
#21
Tranny cooler or not, do yourself, your wallet, and your dear Maxima Tranny a favor and change your tranny fluid ASAP after the tow. The added heat that is generated during towing burns up even the best of tranny fluids faster than you can say "FXXKING SXXT!! MY TRANNY JUST WENT!!"
Also, depending on how old your tranny fluid is thats in there now, you might want to change before and after the tow. **$50.00 or so now, may very well save you $1000.00 in the near future......
Also, depending on how old your tranny fluid is thats in there now, you might want to change before and after the tow. **$50.00 or so now, may very well save you $1000.00 in the near future......
03-31-2008, 11:23 AM
#22
haha yeah sorry i meant overdrive BUTTON FTW (to prevent it from doing the 3-4 shift)
03-31-2008, 02:14 PM
#23
Excellent advice: I've already done 1 drain and fill and plan on doing 2 more before I go. Hadn't thought of changing it after I got home, but that's a good idea too. You suppose doing just another drain and fill will be sufficient or should I go for a full flush when I get home?
There's a teflon seal and a brass bushing that the converter rides on that prevents the fluid from draining back.....its kinda complicated to explain without pics or something to poke at, but you get the idea Im sure. And OF COURSE, make sure your ENGINE oil and COOLANT are up to par as well.
You can basically ALMOST make it as though this trip didnt even happen if you take the proper preventative maintanence steps before hand (ie making sure you have fresh oils and lubricants in your engine, transmission, and even brake lines if you wanna go that far). And mind the brake pedal....with the added mass youll be carrying around, you better be sure to not speed and start applying the brakes WAYYYYYY before you would normally.
Happy Towing
03-31-2008, 02:27 PM
#24
Another tip, load your heavy stuff to the rear of the trailer putting less stress on the tongue. When you load a trailer you should be able to balance it equally just by yourself.
03-31-2008, 03:52 PM
#26
I would say a FLUSH would be the best and safest option. And OF COURSE, make sure your ENGINE oil and COOLANT are up to par as well.
You can basically ALMOST make it as though this trip didnt even happen if you take the proper preventative maintanence steps before hand (ie making sure you have fresh oils and lubricants in your engine, transmission, and even brake lines if you wanna go that far). And mind the brake pedal....with the added mass youll be carrying around, you better be sure to not speed and start applying the brakes WAYYYYYY before you would normally.
Happy Towing
You can basically ALMOST make it as though this trip didnt even happen if you take the proper preventative maintanence steps before hand (ie making sure you have fresh oils and lubricants in your engine, transmission, and even brake lines if you wanna go that far). And mind the brake pedal....with the added mass youll be carrying around, you better be sure to not speed and start applying the brakes WAYYYYYY before you would normally.
Happy Towing
Flush it'll be when I finally make it home (might be a good time to finally change it over to Amsoil synthetic) As far as the coolant, I'm good to go as I just put a fresh batch of Nissan Long Life coolant in her so no worries there. Brakes fluid is good too. I had the lines bled and filled not too long ago. Only thing left are my remaining tranny drain and fills and changing the engine oil and I'll do that right before I split. I'll rotate and balance my tires and have my alignment checked too.
So fingers crossed, I hope it will be happy towing. I'm gonna re-up on my Allstate motor club membership just in case though.
Great point. I was gong to ask about weight distribution. So heavy stuff away from the tongue and lighter stuff up front. Excellent idea. What about loading my trunk or back seat up with some of the heavy stuff too? Will that reduce a bit more stress on the tongue or the car?
03-31-2008, 03:56 PM
#28
I'm hoping that by taking all these steps I will reduce the risk significantly, but are you going on speculation or do you have real world experience towing with your Max? If you've towed 900 pounds with your Max and incurred problems even after taking the proper steps then I'd love to know so I can start to explore other moving options.
Thanks.
Thanks.
03-31-2008, 03:58 PM
#29
03-31-2008, 04:12 PM
#30
I'm hoping that by taking all these steps I will reduce the risk significantly, but are you going on speculation or do you have real world experience towing with your Max? If you've towed 900 pounds with your Max and incurred problems even after taking the proper steps then I'd love to know so I can start to explore other moving options.
Thanks.
Thanks.
If you've taken the proper precautions and maintenence before and after extended towing trips, then your vehicle ought to be able to handle what it is rated for mechanically as long as it was properly maintained before.
03-31-2008, 04:36 PM
#31
I'll answer this one not based on experience of towing with a Max, but with several other vehicles. When you get close to the maximum load rating on any vehicle I've ever driven (regardless of the weight distribution), you have to watch out for the trailer sway, especially on single axle vs a tandem (dual axle). Things can get really hairy if you're going over 55 MPH with a max load and it starts to swing on you. That's going to be the only problem you could really run into and something to watch out for. If that does happen, don't suddenly brake or you'll make it worse. Same principles of hyrdoplaning occur here to correct it. Foot off the gas, engine braking gets back down to safe speed.
If you've taken the proper precautions and maintenence before and after extended towing trips, then your vehicle ought to be able to handle what it is rated for mechanically as long as it was properly maintained before.
If you've taken the proper precautions and maintenence before and after extended towing trips, then your vehicle ought to be able to handle what it is rated for mechanically as long as it was properly maintained before.
Curious, what are your thoughts on using the cruise control when towing?
03-31-2008, 04:52 PM
#32
No problems with cruise at all. Have always used it myself if it were available on the vehicle I was driving and if it were an automatic. With driving with the OD off, it's the same as having a steady foot. Nothing really changes mechanically.
And btw... I saw where you were comparing hidden hitch and the U-Haul ones earlier. HH hands down. The U-Haul's are lousy simply because they are an eyesore. Hidden Hitch are better made and look better as well.
And btw... I saw where you were comparing hidden hitch and the U-Haul ones earlier. HH hands down. The U-Haul's are lousy simply because they are an eyesore. Hidden Hitch are better made and look better as well.
Last edited by coachholland; 03-31-2008 at 04:54 PM.
03-31-2008, 05:19 PM
#33
No problems with cruise at all. Have always used it myself if it were available on the vehicle I was driving and if it were an automatic. With driving with the OD off, it's the same as having a steady foot. Nothing really changes mechanically.
And btw... I saw where you were comparing hidden hitch and the U-Haul ones earlier. HH hands down. The U-Haul's are lousy simply because they are an eyesore. Hidden Hitch are better made and look better as well.
And btw... I saw where you were comparing hidden hitch and the U-Haul ones earlier. HH hands down. The U-Haul's are lousy simply because they are an eyesore. Hidden Hitch are better made and look better as well.
04-01-2008, 02:59 AM
#34
The ball is whatever you decide to put on there. Find out the size of the trailer and purchase the ball for your ball mount accordingly. No need for special wiring either. There are adapters available for all commonly used hitches. There are two main ones. A six or seven prong round connector and a four prong flat connector. Pretty sure U-Haul uses the four pin connectors. The write-up posted earlier sounds like a good one for actual hitch installation, but instead of splicing, I would look for an application specific wiring harness. I've installed a couple and they are just plug and play with no splicing required. Just a personal thing of mine, I don't care for splicing when it comes to lighting.
http://www.hiddenhitch.com/fitguides/pdf/N60945.pdf
http://www.hiddenhitch.com/fitguides/pdf/N60945.pdf
04-01-2008, 10:10 AM
#35
I've towed enough heavy stuff short distances to know that I don't need the headache of trying to go 1100 mi with a heay trailer! But if you insist, here's a few tips.
BRAKES!!!! I can't empasize this enough. Obviously brake way earlier than you normally do, but also be very careful downhill. Downshift to maintain speed down steep hills instead of braking. Also be really careful when going down offramps (especially ones you're not familiar with). I've overheated my brakes once or twice on the AX course, and would not recommend that for 4000-4500 lbs of combined weight at 50 mph. While the uhaul trailers are very heavy for thier size, they do have hydraulic brakes that act when the car slows down.
Last time I used a uhaul trailer, they made me buy an adapter that went from a flat four plug to four male bullet connectors. The only wiring on the actual trailer were four female bullets, and larry, darrel and darrel at uhaul spent 20 minutes crawling all over my car jumping in and out of it to get the lights working right. The worst part is that they wanted like $20 on top of the rental fee for the 25 cent adapter. If I had known this ahead of time, I would have soldered one up myself.
Most of the rental places I have dealt with all use 2" *****, but you can call and check on that. Also remember that the class one hitch has a smaller shank than class 2 and up, make sure you get the right one.
Looking at how small those trailers are, and considering the fact that the old max won't get great mileage anyway, your might even look at renting an SUV for the trip (COMMENCE FLAMING!!!). Hertz gets about $50/day with unlimited miles for a trailblazer, and you could fit everything in the truck that you could carry in the trailer. Also no worries about parking!
Or if you have enough stuff that it would take multiple trips in the max, it might be cheaper to rent a smaller moving van. I wouldn't use uhaul for a trip that long since they are gassers and get like 5 mpg. Check out Budget or Enterprize, I used the big budget truck with the diesel and it got like 15 mpg at interstate speeds.
BRAKES!!!! I can't empasize this enough. Obviously brake way earlier than you normally do, but also be very careful downhill. Downshift to maintain speed down steep hills instead of braking. Also be really careful when going down offramps (especially ones you're not familiar with). I've overheated my brakes once or twice on the AX course, and would not recommend that for 4000-4500 lbs of combined weight at 50 mph. While the uhaul trailers are very heavy for thier size, they do have hydraulic brakes that act when the car slows down.
Last time I used a uhaul trailer, they made me buy an adapter that went from a flat four plug to four male bullet connectors. The only wiring on the actual trailer were four female bullets, and larry, darrel and darrel at uhaul spent 20 minutes crawling all over my car jumping in and out of it to get the lights working right. The worst part is that they wanted like $20 on top of the rental fee for the 25 cent adapter. If I had known this ahead of time, I would have soldered one up myself.
Most of the rental places I have dealt with all use 2" *****, but you can call and check on that. Also remember that the class one hitch has a smaller shank than class 2 and up, make sure you get the right one.
Looking at how small those trailers are, and considering the fact that the old max won't get great mileage anyway, your might even look at renting an SUV for the trip (COMMENCE FLAMING!!!). Hertz gets about $50/day with unlimited miles for a trailblazer, and you could fit everything in the truck that you could carry in the trailer. Also no worries about parking!
Or if you have enough stuff that it would take multiple trips in the max, it might be cheaper to rent a smaller moving van. I wouldn't use uhaul for a trip that long since they are gassers and get like 5 mpg. Check out Budget or Enterprize, I used the big budget truck with the diesel and it got like 15 mpg at interstate speeds.
04-01-2008, 12:48 PM
#37
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Join Date: Feb 2001
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Posts: 4,521
I have a 4'x8' flatbed trailer ($300 at Harbor Freight) that I use all the time with my 180,000 "miled" '96 beater. I have loaded that thing with loads as high as 8'. Never a problem.
You will need to install the hitch/ball. That will require permanent damage to your spare tire well (holes).
If I remember correctly, U-Haul won't rent you one of those trailers without a Class I hitch. You'll be using a Class III hitch on your Max.
You will need to install the hitch/ball. That will require permanent damage to your spare tire well (holes).
If I remember correctly, U-Haul won't rent you one of those trailers without a Class I hitch. You'll be using a Class III hitch on your Max.
Well, I'm moving and need to figure out how to get my stuff home. After pricing moving trucks and figuring in gas and a dolly for towing my car, it looks like It'll be a ball and pocket breaker.
I have no qualms in trimming it down to my essentials so I can tow an inexpensive trailer instead but the question is, can I tow one of these 4x8 or 5x8 trailers with my Max and not have my tranny explode on me?
http://www.uhaul.com/trailers/
From what I've read, the Max is rated to pull 1,000 pounds and has a tongue weight of 110 pounds and these trailers are under that. Not by much but they are. Obviously, when I load them up I will exceed the 1k pound limit, but in real world applications, regardless of Nissan's specs, think my Max can handle it? Has any one towed one these bastards before?
I have no qualms in trimming it down to my essentials so I can tow an inexpensive trailer instead but the question is, can I tow one of these 4x8 or 5x8 trailers with my Max and not have my tranny explode on me?
http://www.uhaul.com/trailers/
From what I've read, the Max is rated to pull 1,000 pounds and has a tongue weight of 110 pounds and these trailers are under that. Not by much but they are. Obviously, when I load them up I will exceed the 1k pound limit, but in real world applications, regardless of Nissan's specs, think my Max can handle it? Has any one towed one these bastards before?
04-01-2008, 04:22 PM
#38
Progun, you might have gotten away with that on a 40 mile trip (though still not recommended), but he's not going to get away with his OD on for 1000+ miles.
ptatohed, Hidden Hitches for the Maxima are Class I hitches and from what I understand and looking at the installation instructions I posted, require no drilling and use existing hardware.
ptatohed, Hidden Hitches for the Maxima are Class I hitches and from what I understand and looking at the installation instructions I posted, require no drilling and use existing hardware.
04-01-2008, 07:44 PM
#39
Yup OD off....check.....that yellow light is going to kill me though. I just know it. Especially at night. Any color changing "OD off" mods out there yet? Change that bastard from bright yellow to red or white or something other than yellow. That'd be sweet. Bright yellow? Come on! Reckon I could slap electrical tape or a bologna slice over it but I don't wanna mess up my cluster. Looks like I'm gonna have to deal with it or just get used to it. *****.
And phew on the not having to burn holes in my trunk. Got a little scared there for a minute. And no class 3 hitch. Just a Hidden Hitch Class 1 hitch. Check.
I'll have to do a little more learning up on the wiring though. That still scares me. I'll also have to check out what U-Haul is definitively using for their connections. Don't want to show up to a sword fight cause they changed it or something. That'd be more frustrating than some female on female action.
And 96gxe your right. Those trailers, for their size, are heavy as *****. They're basically giving me roughly 100-150 pounds to work with. My collection of rubber pocket pussies weighs that much for crying out loud.
Seriously though, I wish I didn't have to insist, but the trucks and cargo vans have been too pricey or had and one-way limitations. I might revisit this notion if I can find something affordable. An Suv is a good idea but I have a sneaking suspicion that I won't be able to get it all in. I'd also have to tow my Max with it. Certainly can't leave her behind. I wonder if they rent vans. I'll have to check that out. Thanks for the alt options. Appreciate it. Oh and I'll say hi to Larry, Daryl and Daryl for you when I finally make it up there.
Curious though. Are they're other places I can rent 1 way trailers from? Home Depot perhaps? (I'll give them a call tomorrow) Any lighter rental trailers out there that you can't open like a can of tuna or blast open with an axe? What do y'all think?
And phew on the not having to burn holes in my trunk. Got a little scared there for a minute. And no class 3 hitch. Just a Hidden Hitch Class 1 hitch. Check.
I'll have to do a little more learning up on the wiring though. That still scares me. I'll also have to check out what U-Haul is definitively using for their connections. Don't want to show up to a sword fight cause they changed it or something. That'd be more frustrating than some female on female action.
And 96gxe your right. Those trailers, for their size, are heavy as *****. They're basically giving me roughly 100-150 pounds to work with. My collection of rubber pocket pussies weighs that much for crying out loud.
Seriously though, I wish I didn't have to insist, but the trucks and cargo vans have been too pricey or had and one-way limitations. I might revisit this notion if I can find something affordable. An Suv is a good idea but I have a sneaking suspicion that I won't be able to get it all in. I'd also have to tow my Max with it. Certainly can't leave her behind. I wonder if they rent vans. I'll have to check that out. Thanks for the alt options. Appreciate it. Oh and I'll say hi to Larry, Daryl and Daryl for you when I finally make it up there.
Curious though. Are they're other places I can rent 1 way trailers from? Home Depot perhaps? (I'll give them a call tomorrow) Any lighter rental trailers out there that you can't open like a can of tuna or blast open with an axe? What do y'all think?
04-01-2008, 09:51 PM
#40
Licensed to Spell
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Murrieta (southern California)
Posts: 4,521
Sorry, I said that backward. I meant you'll get a Class I (or II) hitch for the Maxima, not a Class III. In other words, you'll have a 1 1/4" square instead of a 2" square. My point was that U-Haul will only rent you one of those trailers for a Class III (2" opening). My second comment about drilling holes in the spare tire wheel well still stands - until you can link me to instructions that show otherwise. I have a Reese and I know it mounts to the tire well. I know the Drawtight does too.