anyone ever get pulled over for clearance light mod?
04-02-2008, 06:10 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: boynton beach, FL
Posts: 354
anyone ever get pulled over for clearance light mod?
i just put in the sylvania ambers with the brighter light mod. they look great but im not sure if a cop would decide to pull me over.
anyone else have this happen?
anyone else have this happen?
04-02-2008, 06:40 PM
#2
i got "pulled over" before and the cop went to the front of the car to check them out. He was like what's with these lights? They're pretty bright. I told him they were my corner lights and he just walked back over to my window.
He didn't really seem to have a problem with them, but it could be different depending on the officer.
He didn't really seem to have a problem with them, but it could be different depending on the officer.
04-02-2008, 07:02 PM
#7
the officers (there were two actually) were driving behind me, i pulled over to make a phone call (apparently suspicious behavior) and the officer put his lights on and pulled over behind me... he just looked like he was looking for a reason to get me, but i wasn't doing anything wrong.
04-02-2008, 07:03 PM
#8
How do I rewire my clearance lights so that they're brighter? (95-96 and 97+)
This mod is very simple, but since theres tons of different writeups on it out there, and lots of rumors, it can be confusing. But this is a great way to help your Max look better. Here goes:
Stuff you need: Phillips head screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, nailclippers, electrical tape
1)Remove your clearance light housing. It's pretty simple, just pop the hood and remove the screw that holds it in. With a little bit of tugging, you can pull the side closest to the doors (not the front side) out (it goes behind a little plastic flap). look down into the hood and find the little ball joint socket that holds the clearance light in. take a screwdriver (flathead) and pop it out of that socket. there the light is out.
2)Remove the bulb from the light by twisting it and pulling it out. Place the clearance light housing onto the ground.
3)In your hand you should have the bulb in socket connected to the wires for it. The bulb can be removed from its socket by being twisted and then pulled out. do so now.
4)Look at the bulb closely. On the metal base (below the glass) you can see two metal "nubs." Take fingernail clippers and snip the one CLOSEST TO THE GLASS (the higher one).
5)Cut a strip of electrical tape about 2 inches long and 1/4 inch high. Wrap this tape around the spot where the nub was so that it covers the spot (but not the other nub). This is to ensure a secure connection in the socket.
6)Look down into the socket of the bulb. You can see two notches where the nubs were to be secured (one for the higher nub and one for the lower nub). The bulb, however, now has only one nub (the lower one). Heres the tricky part: you want to put the bulb in so that the lower nub (the remaining one) goes in the spot that the higher nub was supposed to (dont worry if the electrical tape gets pushed a bit).
7) Now that the bulb is back in socket, replace the socket in the housing but dont put the housing back on yet. Flip your lights on to make sure that the job worked (I haven't seen it fail when you use electrical tape). Once your confident that it worked replace the housing (make sure its in there!).
8)Repeat on other side.
This mod is very simple, but since theres tons of different writeups on it out there, and lots of rumors, it can be confusing. But this is a great way to help your Max look better. Here goes:
Stuff you need: Phillips head screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, nailclippers, electrical tape
1)Remove your clearance light housing. It's pretty simple, just pop the hood and remove the screw that holds it in. With a little bit of tugging, you can pull the side closest to the doors (not the front side) out (it goes behind a little plastic flap). look down into the hood and find the little ball joint socket that holds the clearance light in. take a screwdriver (flathead) and pop it out of that socket. there the light is out.
2)Remove the bulb from the light by twisting it and pulling it out. Place the clearance light housing onto the ground.
3)In your hand you should have the bulb in socket connected to the wires for it. The bulb can be removed from its socket by being twisted and then pulled out. do so now.
4)Look at the bulb closely. On the metal base (below the glass) you can see two metal "nubs." Take fingernail clippers and snip the one CLOSEST TO THE GLASS (the higher one).
5)Cut a strip of electrical tape about 2 inches long and 1/4 inch high. Wrap this tape around the spot where the nub was so that it covers the spot (but not the other nub). This is to ensure a secure connection in the socket.
6)Look down into the socket of the bulb. You can see two notches where the nubs were to be secured (one for the higher nub and one for the lower nub). The bulb, however, now has only one nub (the lower one). Heres the tricky part: you want to put the bulb in so that the lower nub (the remaining one) goes in the spot that the higher nub was supposed to (dont worry if the electrical tape gets pushed a bit).
7) Now that the bulb is back in socket, replace the socket in the housing but dont put the housing back on yet. Flip your lights on to make sure that the job worked (I haven't seen it fail when you use electrical tape). Once your confident that it worked replace the housing (make sure its in there!).
8)Repeat on other side.
04-02-2008, 08:45 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Santa Monica
Posts: 393
04-03-2008, 06:02 AM
#21
04-03-2008, 07:48 AM
#26
04-03-2008, 07:54 AM
#28
04-03-2008, 08:15 AM
#29
it works because the bulb is connected to a lower watt supply and a higher watt supply (normally for when you use your blinkers). The mod makes it so the bulb is always connected to the higher wattage.
Some people say that the extra constant wattage generates too much heat and cracks glass lenses or melts plastic ones. Anyone who has had this mod for a while...can you comment?
Some people say that the extra constant wattage generates too much heat and cracks glass lenses or melts plastic ones. Anyone who has had this mod for a while...can you comment?
04-03-2008, 10:49 AM
#32
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 148
OMG Reading this almost left me in tears.
The power supply is all 12 *VOLTS*.
This bulb type has two different FILAMENTS in it because it is dual purpose. It is used for a turn signal bulb but it also lights a running light when the headlights are on. One filament goes on when you turn on your headlights, the other when your turn signal blinks.
You're snipping the nub so you can mount the bulb in the socket 180 degrees from normal.
If you look at the bottom of the bulb, there are two dots -- one for each filament. The bottom of the socket is sprung so when you push the bulb in and turn it, the staggered nubs lock in the socket, the high nub is in the long slot, the low nub is in the short slot -- it keeps you from putting the bulb in backwards -- which you've defeated by snipping the nub. The tape on the nub doesn't do anything other than take up a little room in the socket and hold the bulb in.
All you're doing is turning the bulb 180 degrees so that it lights the turn signal light when the headlights are on (a brighter light, obviously) and lights the running light when the t/s is turned on.
The power supply is all 12 *VOLTS*.
This bulb type has two different FILAMENTS in it because it is dual purpose. It is used for a turn signal bulb but it also lights a running light when the headlights are on. One filament goes on when you turn on your headlights, the other when your turn signal blinks.
You're snipping the nub so you can mount the bulb in the socket 180 degrees from normal.
If you look at the bottom of the bulb, there are two dots -- one for each filament. The bottom of the socket is sprung so when you push the bulb in and turn it, the staggered nubs lock in the socket, the high nub is in the long slot, the low nub is in the short slot -- it keeps you from putting the bulb in backwards -- which you've defeated by snipping the nub. The tape on the nub doesn't do anything other than take up a little room in the socket and hold the bulb in.
All you're doing is turning the bulb 180 degrees so that it lights the turn signal light when the headlights are on (a brighter light, obviously) and lights the running light when the t/s is turned on.
Last edited by emoore924; 04-03-2008 at 10:55 AM.
04-03-2008, 12:30 PM
#35
04-03-2008, 12:33 PM
#36
fog light mod > bumper light mod > corner light mod
Ive done the first 2
Last edited by black_maxed95; 04-03-2008 at 12:36 PM.
04-03-2008, 12:34 PM
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Santa Monica
Posts: 393
No problemo.
I'm no genius about wiring and lighting but when it comes to performance and tuning I sure like to call myself a genius.
I just completed this mod last night and it took 2 minutes. Just used my fingernails to rip off the higher nub. Had to use two layers of electrical tape to keep it from budging. The difference is day and night. You can pretty much use your corners as some of DTR lights...just don't forget to turn off your lights or you'll have a dead car.
lol?
I'm no genius about wiring and lighting but when it comes to performance and tuning I sure like to call myself a genius.
I just completed this mod last night and it took 2 minutes. Just used my fingernails to rip off the higher nub. Had to use two layers of electrical tape to keep it from budging. The difference is day and night. You can pretty much use your corners as some of DTR lights...just don't forget to turn off your lights or you'll have a dead car.
lol?
04-03-2008, 12:36 PM
#38
yes, but there is still more wattage to the brighter filament. people have reported that this excess wattage/heat will over time ruin the lenses or housings. since i have $150 aftermarket lights on my car and i always have my lights on when i drive, im not going to risk it.
im about to put some R34s on, but now maybe ill hold off until the current bulbs burn out
