Red/Clear Issues
#1
Red/Clear Issues
I installed a set of some red/clears on my car this weekend.
However now, the running lights don't work. I feel like I need a different fuse. The brake lights, signal lights, both work on the tails.
Under the steering wheel, in the fuse box I checked the fuse and it is a 7.50 (whatever)
Should I use a 10.0 now that my tail lights have 3 lights in them instead of 2?
I haven't actually had enough time to go back and troubleshoot
Btw, to clarify... Because I searched and found a thread about issues with daytime running lights in Canada, (wtf?) It's at night time that my tail lights don't light up. Haha
However now, the running lights don't work. I feel like I need a different fuse. The brake lights, signal lights, both work on the tails.
Under the steering wheel, in the fuse box I checked the fuse and it is a 7.50 (whatever)
Should I use a 10.0 now that my tail lights have 3 lights in them instead of 2?
I haven't actually had enough time to go back and troubleshoot
Btw, to clarify... Because I searched and found a thread about issues with daytime running lights in Canada, (wtf?) It's at night time that my tail lights don't light up. Haha
#5
U should not need to change the fuse if it is a simple OEM swap out with Ebay/C.E/D.I.Y red/clears..
it uses the same amount of bulbs + same "holes"...
when you mean the "running" light, do you mean the "red" side marker on the rear tail light or do you actually mean the DRL ( daytime running light ) in your headlights?
cause it's it's the DRL light in your headlights, then it has NOTHING to do with your tailight being changed to the red/clears..
however, if that is NOT the situation, please elaborate..
it uses the same amount of bulbs + same "holes"...
when you mean the "running" light, do you mean the "red" side marker on the rear tail light or do you actually mean the DRL ( daytime running light ) in your headlights?
cause it's it's the DRL light in your headlights, then it has NOTHING to do with your tailight being changed to the red/clears..
however, if that is NOT the situation, please elaborate..
#9
#16
man wth is going on here? you dont change anything but the housing when you switch tail lights. there is no reason anything should be different unless maybe you got the wrong year, but that should be painfully obvious.
#17
lol i didn't get the wrong year.
a new 7.5 fuse wouldn't work. so we tried with a 15 last night before going to cheesecake factory (had to say it because it was good) and it worked. i think i made this more confusing than necessary. again i'm sorry
a new 7.5 fuse wouldn't work. so we tried with a 15 last night before going to cheesecake factory (had to say it because it was good) and it worked. i think i made this more confusing than necessary. again i'm sorry
#18
the thing is that the wiring/bulbs shouldn't have changed. if you blew a fuse either something shorted out during the install or is shorting out. you might want to check out your wiring because if its shorting out you could melt your wiring with a higher fuse (aka car go boom) although it would most likely blow a 15a fuse too.
there is no reason to have to upgrade the fuse.
there is no reason to have to upgrade the fuse.
#19
the thing is that the wiring/bulbs shouldn't have changed. if you blew a fuse either something shorted out during the install or is shorting out. you might want to check out your wiring because if its shorting out you could melt your wiring with a higher fuse (aka car go boom) although it would most likely blow a 15a fuse too.
there is no reason to have to upgrade the fuse.
there is no reason to have to upgrade the fuse.
#23
having a higher amp fuse allows more current to go through the wire than its designed for. once you go over a certain amperage (varies by wire gauge) the resistance of the wire will cause a voltage drop in the wire, that means heat which can melt the wire and set your car on fire. wires are fused for their gauge.
there is no reason you should be blowing 7.5 amp fuses unless you are shorting out. put another 7.5 fuse in there and if it blows you have a wiring issue.
there is no reason you should be blowing 7.5 amp fuses unless you are shorting out. put another 7.5 fuse in there and if it blows you have a wiring issue.
#30
my brake lights, signals work with the 7.5
but at night time the running lights don't come on.
how is it a wiring issue if they come on with a bigger fuse.
if i use a 10.0 will that "melt" my wiring?
but at night time the running lights don't come on.
how is it a wiring issue if they come on with a bigger fuse.
if i use a 10.0 will that "melt" my wiring?
#31
can someone tell me which plug is the running light? i have only driven my car twice with the lights on since last night with the bigger fuse. but obviously i have to drive to get a smaller one. or I can just put the smaller ones I have in right now
#36
#37
#38
this is the break down
194 = Rear side marker
1156 = sigle filament bulb = Flasher
1157 = Dual filament bulb = parking lights + brake light..
If what you are saying your "light" isn't one when the brake is applied, then it's possible you switched the bulbs in the socket by mistake..
Make sure you "brake" light bulb has 2 filaments and make sure your turn signal lightbulb has only 1 filament
another way to tell the difference.. 1157 bulb has 2 nipples on the bottom whereas 1156 has 1..
194 = Rear side marker
1156 = sigle filament bulb = Flasher
1157 = Dual filament bulb = parking lights + brake light..
If what you are saying your "light" isn't one when the brake is applied, then it's possible you switched the bulbs in the socket by mistake..
Make sure you "brake" light bulb has 2 filaments and make sure your turn signal lightbulb has only 1 filament
another way to tell the difference.. 1157 bulb has 2 nipples on the bottom whereas 1156 has 1..
#40