I know mine is pretty impressive... 165K and still going strong... Dry T/O bearing makes a little squeaky sound when not engaged but you got to hear for it... Other then that... Still going good... How about you?
Member
Original clutch on my 95 SE went strong to 193K - a couple months ago - before it self destructed. Hope I get another 190K or so on my new clutch.
Senior Member
137k and slipped once when I pinned it a couple of months ago so I got scared and bought an exeddy off of Ebay and it hasent slipped since. So i have a full clutch kit sitting in my room just begging for my car to use it.
215K here and still some life left in it but went ahead and replaced it because definately didnt wanna have to rip the trans back off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mxrider52
215K here and still some life left in it but went ahead and replaced it because definately didnt wanna have to rip the trans back off.
Wow, that's exactly what naffdur's looked like except his center hub broke off from the outside. You guys need to learn how to drive stick
Senior Member
hmm i really dont get these kinds of threads... what use could this information possibly serve to the op, or anyone for that matter? Is this just more to show off?
Not really its just seeing how good the factory clutches are in these cars. I have seen cars like most american cars go 50-80k... Mostly due to bad driving but when I see clutches go before 80k it is either u suck at driving, ur clutch sucks, Or u race and burn out way to much.
Senior Member
Quote:
First of all its simple curiosityOriginally Posted by udienow
hmm i really dont get these kinds of threads... what use could this information possibly serve to the op, or anyone for that matter? Is this just more to show off?
Second of all if you see someone get 200k+ and you had to replace yours after 50k, then you know you're doing something wrong
With that being said, I wish I had a clutch (pedal)
Senior Member
my factory clutch was going strong at 165k until I changed it out for the Exedy Stage One for no reason............
Senior Member
175K miles on my original clutch and it still had about 20% left on it, no chattering but the tranny went bye bye so i did the clutch at the same time.
Senior Member
Quote:
well thats not entirely accurate man. I'm pretty sure I can drive my car good. I dont double clutch or anything retarded like that. I do drive pretty aggresive though. My clutch went out at 103k miles. I've done burnouts launching at 4k rpms (yes, stupid i know) Originally Posted by Coremanx
Not really its just seeing how good the factory clutches are in these cars. I have seen cars like most american cars go 50-80k... Mostly due to bad driving but when I see clutches go before 80k it is either u suck at driving, ur clutch sucks, Or u race and burn out way to much.
On a side note, if your partly getting at the fact at how well the clutch is, i'll fully agree with you on that its awesome for the lifetime.
Senior Member
Clutches really depend on how theyve been treated. The OEM clutch i had in the car was driven fairly nicely till about 150K Miles then the last 25K miles it got driven HARD. I use to beat the **** out of the car day in and day out, and the clutch still had a fair amount of life.
And for american cars, my beater 99 ranger with 153K miles is still on the original clutch, and the guy who had it before use to tow his boat up in the mountain areas all the time. Also those rangers are known to have weak clutches, so really it depends on how its driven.
Ive seen the same 04 maxima 6spd come into my shop 4 times for a toasted clutch and last time it was here it only had 36K miles. The women could not take off without riding the hell out of the clutch. oddly enough she complains that nissan makes crappy unreliable cars, when realisitically no cars clutch likes to be slowly ridden out at 3000rpm every time you take off.
Also to the OP.
If im not sure if i read your post correctly but noise when your foot is OFF the clutch pedal is not T/O bearing, it is the input shaft bearing. The T/O bearing is only engaged when your foot is pressed down on the clutch pedal. For those of you who are not familiar, it is a very common misconception, when your foot is off the clutch, the clutch is engaged, therefore your input shaft and input shaft bearing is spinning, this is possible when you are in gear and in neutral. Now the T/O bearing is attatched to the clutch fork, this bearing is only engaged and in movement when your foot is pressed onto the clutch pedal. Therefore when your foot is down the clutch is disengaged, and when your foot is off the clutch is engaged. I actually fell into this misconception, untill i really thought about it.
And for american cars, my beater 99 ranger with 153K miles is still on the original clutch, and the guy who had it before use to tow his boat up in the mountain areas all the time. Also those rangers are known to have weak clutches, so really it depends on how its driven.
Ive seen the same 04 maxima 6spd come into my shop 4 times for a toasted clutch and last time it was here it only had 36K miles. The women could not take off without riding the hell out of the clutch. oddly enough she complains that nissan makes crappy unreliable cars, when realisitically no cars clutch likes to be slowly ridden out at 3000rpm every time you take off.
Also to the OP.
If im not sure if i read your post correctly but noise when your foot is OFF the clutch pedal is not T/O bearing, it is the input shaft bearing. The T/O bearing is only engaged when your foot is pressed down on the clutch pedal. For those of you who are not familiar, it is a very common misconception, when your foot is off the clutch, the clutch is engaged, therefore your input shaft and input shaft bearing is spinning, this is possible when you are in gear and in neutral. Now the T/O bearing is attatched to the clutch fork, this bearing is only engaged and in movement when your foot is pressed onto the clutch pedal. Therefore when your foot is down the clutch is disengaged, and when your foot is off the clutch is engaged. I actually fell into this misconception, untill i really thought about it.
Quote:
And for american cars, my beater 99 ranger with 153K miles is still on the original clutch, and the guy who had it before use to tow his boat up in the mountain areas all the time. Also those rangers are known to have weak clutches, so really it depends on how its driven.
Ive seen the same 04 maxima 6spd come into my shop 4 times for a toasted clutch and last time it was here it only had 36K miles. The women could not take off without riding the hell out of the clutch. oddly enough she complains that nissan makes crappy unreliable cars, when realisitically no cars clutch likes to be slowly ridden out at 3000rpm every time you take off.
Also to the OP.
If im not sure if i read your post correctly but noise when your foot is OFF the clutch pedal is not T/O bearing, it is the input shaft bearing. The T/O bearing is only engaged when your foot is pressed down on the clutch pedal. For those of you who are not familiar, it is a very common misconception, when your foot is off the clutch, the clutch is engaged, therefore your input shaft and input shaft bearing is spinning, this is possible when you are in gear and in neutral. Now the T/O bearing is attatched to the clutch fork, this bearing is only engaged and in movement when your foot is pressed onto the clutch pedal. Therefore when your foot is down the clutch is disengaged, and when your foot is off the clutch is engaged. I actually fell into this misconception, untill i really thought about it.
Originally Posted by 96blkonblkse
Clutches really depend on how theyve been treated. The OEM clutch i had in the car was driven fairly nicely till about 150K Miles then the last 25K miles it got driven HARD. I use to beat the **** out of the car day in and day out, and the clutch still had a fair amount of life.And for american cars, my beater 99 ranger with 153K miles is still on the original clutch, and the guy who had it before use to tow his boat up in the mountain areas all the time. Also those rangers are known to have weak clutches, so really it depends on how its driven.
Ive seen the same 04 maxima 6spd come into my shop 4 times for a toasted clutch and last time it was here it only had 36K miles. The women could not take off without riding the hell out of the clutch. oddly enough she complains that nissan makes crappy unreliable cars, when realisitically no cars clutch likes to be slowly ridden out at 3000rpm every time you take off.
Also to the OP.
If im not sure if i read your post correctly but noise when your foot is OFF the clutch pedal is not T/O bearing, it is the input shaft bearing. The T/O bearing is only engaged when your foot is pressed down on the clutch pedal. For those of you who are not familiar, it is a very common misconception, when your foot is off the clutch, the clutch is engaged, therefore your input shaft and input shaft bearing is spinning, this is possible when you are in gear and in neutral. Now the T/O bearing is attatched to the clutch fork, this bearing is only engaged and in movement when your foot is pressed onto the clutch pedal. Therefore when your foot is down the clutch is disengaged, and when your foot is off the clutch is engaged. I actually fell into this misconception, untill i really thought about it.
u sir are correct... I totally forgot about that, I knew it was the input shaft bearing then when I made this post I somehow thought it was the TO bearing... It is actually the Dry input bearing making the sound, and obv when the clutch is pushed in, the sound goes away.
Member
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I think that's a compliment, KRR, to those of us who get close to 200K out of our original clutches, right?Originally Posted by KRRZ350
Wow, that's exactly what naffdur's looked like except his center hub broke off from the outside. You guys need to learn how to drive stick
But, as you alluded to after doing my replacement and seeing it first hand, mine failed (at a little over 190K) not by running out of clutch material, but by the center section metal fatiguing. If you use your clutch for many years (in my case, 13 1/2) I don't think metal fatigue can be prevented.
So, just a word of warning to anyone still not getting any clutch slippage at high mileage - these things can catastrophically fail with very little notice. The day mine let loose, it chattered - for the first time ever - at 2 or 3 stop/starts before the center section broke completely free.
My dad said they replaced an 04' sentra clutch the other day....at 23K! The car wouldn't move, it was that bad. Apparently it wasn't a clutch defect or anything...the driver was just THAT bad.
Senior Member
I'm assuming you mean a manual tranny clutch....but my auto tranny is still going strong at 265k miles in my 95 SE.
Member
I have 185k on the original clutch in my 99se...But just a few days ago it started to get hard to put it in or out of gear
Junior Member
199K and on its third. Problem from the factory caused the dealership to replace the first at 9k, then they messed that up and had to replace that one at 20k...third is still good.
Senior Member
Wow, I dont even care. I would not keep a clutch in my car that has over 100,000 miles or thats older than 6 years. You may not notice a difference until you put a brand new clutch in your baby. It's not that hard of a job, so its worth the effort.
Senior Member
^^u know how expensive it is to replace these clutches if u dont have the tools? so why replace a good clutch?
212k on factory clutch
212k on factory clutch
Member
Quote:
DAMN Originally Posted by alikk23
i got 414k on my 95 maxima factory clutch and original engine.......
414k
Junior Member
Ive got 210 on my original clutch but its slippin like hell so imma have it change this week and replace it with a XTD® STAGE 3 RACING CLUTCH this week.
Member
141k on my '96 and no slippage at all. I'm so damn easy on it though - I usually shift at just 1500 rpm. I got 28 mpg city on my last tank!
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Erm...223,000 miles?Originally Posted by nafddur
How much is 223K in terms of real measurement (i.e. miles)?