Accessing the knock sensor
04-24-2008, 02:17 PM
#1
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Accessing the knock sensor
Yes, I know the search function is the all you need to know database on the knock sensor,however all the threads I have searched for on knock sensor replacement, as well as the guide on motorvate.ca, it seems like everyone says it is a tight squeeze but other than that it is a breeze.
Well, I thought this would be fine then because my hands really aren't all that big, I can barely get my hand in under the intake manifold, theres no way I can get a hand AND a wrench in there. And plus, there is a ton of fuel rail stuff and harnesses and brackets and plugs right in front of it, so if I had a fairly large wrench it would have to poke up and out at almost a 45 degree angle.
It seems like the only way I can do this is to toss a very small wrench in there, reach my hand in, somehow pick up the wrench, and then somehow get it on the bolt.
How is everyone else getting a wrench over this bolt? In just about every thread I read it seems like everyone can do this no problem without removing the intake manifold.
Well, I thought this would be fine then because my hands really aren't all that big, I can barely get my hand in under the intake manifold, theres no way I can get a hand AND a wrench in there. And plus, there is a ton of fuel rail stuff and harnesses and brackets and plugs right in front of it, so if I had a fairly large wrench it would have to poke up and out at almost a 45 degree angle.
It seems like the only way I can do this is to toss a very small wrench in there, reach my hand in, somehow pick up the wrench, and then somehow get it on the bolt.
How is everyone else getting a wrench over this bolt? In just about every thread I read it seems like everyone can do this no problem without removing the intake manifold.
04-24-2008, 02:31 PM
#2
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Update: Tore the **** out of my hand, got the wrench over the bolt, now I can't figure out how to undo the bolt, in the position that this little 4 inch wrench is in, I can only use finger strength to move the wrench since my hand is completely wedged in the hole.
There has got to be some other way people are doing this.....
There has got to be some other way people are doing this.....
04-24-2008, 02:58 PM
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Yes, I know I need a knock sensor, I've had the code for it since I bought the car, and considering it has 170,000 miles on it, I am not surprised.
I almost wonder if my car has **** there that isn't there in the guide, because from the guide it looks like you can reach right in, on my car I can't see how this is possible, even a 4 year year old could get his hand in but still not be able to put any leverage on the wrench. I think I need to put an end to this project for today until I can figure out the method you guys use, the entire top of my hand is bleeding all over the place like a ****.
I almost wonder if my car has **** there that isn't there in the guide, because from the guide it looks like you can reach right in, on my car I can't see how this is possible, even a 4 year year old could get his hand in but still not be able to put any leverage on the wrench. I think I need to put an end to this project for today until I can figure out the method you guys use, the entire top of my hand is bleeding all over the place like a ****.
04-24-2008, 03:27 PM
#6
Yes, I know I need a knock sensor, I've had the code for it since I bought the car, and considering it has 170,000 miles on it, I am not surprised.
I almost wonder if my car has **** there that isn't there in the guide, because from the guide it looks like you can reach right in, on my car I can't see how this is possible, even a 4 year year old could get his hand in but still not be able to put any leverage on the wrench. I think I need to put an end to this project for today until I can figure out the method you guys use, the entire top of my hand is bleeding all over the place like a ****.
I almost wonder if my car has **** there that isn't there in the guide, because from the guide it looks like you can reach right in, on my car I can't see how this is possible, even a 4 year year old could get his hand in but still not be able to put any leverage on the wrench. I think I need to put an end to this project for today until I can figure out the method you guys use, the entire top of my hand is bleeding all over the place like a ****.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....447&highlight=
Beat me to it. Replacing the KS on a 99 CA spec is nearly impossible w/o removing a ton of stuff...
04-24-2008, 04:16 PM
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Nope, I'm a '97
Ok, yea, I checked out these pictures, mine looks just like that. I can't remove that green plug though for some reason, I am afraid I am going to break something. Is it a standard connector where you push the tab in and pull up or is it kinda like a relay where you need a flathead screwdriver? I couldn't get that green thing to budge.
Nor could I get the wrench to budge the one time I actually managed to get it on the bolt.
Dang, maybe my hands are a bit bigger than I thought.
Click the link and scroll down to pictures.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....447&highlight=
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....447&highlight=
Ok, yea, I checked out these pictures, mine looks just like that. I can't remove that green plug though for some reason, I am afraid I am going to break something. Is it a standard connector where you push the tab in and pull up or is it kinda like a relay where you need a flathead screwdriver? I couldn't get that green thing to budge.
Nor could I get the wrench to budge the one time I actually managed to get it on the bolt.
Dang, maybe my hands are a bit bigger than I thought.
04-24-2008, 04:43 PM
#11
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I had my son reach in there (I think he was 14 at the time). He got it done, but got pretty scratched up in the process.
IIRC correctly, that sensor (that you disconnect) is right in the way. Since then I've figured out how to get the sensor off. There's a nut holding it on underneath. I think it's 10mm. Get a crows foot wrench or flex head wrench that size, and the nut should come off easily.
IIRC correctly, that sensor (that you disconnect) is right in the way. Since then I've figured out how to get the sensor off. There's a nut holding it on underneath. I think it's 10mm. Get a crows foot wrench or flex head wrench that size, and the nut should come off easily.
04-24-2008, 04:46 PM
#12
Don't worry about it if you break some tabs off of that knock sensor plug-in. My plug was soooo brittle. It still plugged in to the new sensor just fine. Also. If you can't get enough room to move..... then you need more length.
04-24-2008, 05:13 PM
#13
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had my lil brother 14 years old to do it in less than five minutes. its worth than having everything thorn out of the engine and mula. same as the pic w/ the girl its seems easier for them to do it but make sure u tell them there are some sharp edges down there so give them a rag or mechanix gloves to put on.
04-24-2008, 05:16 PM
#14
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Seriously, the right tools make the job so easy. Even with my 99 cali spec setup, the KS change took no more then 15 minutes. Was one of the easiest things to change on the car.
A wrench doesn't belong down there, a simple socket with an extention and a swivel and it's a piece of cake.
A wrench doesn't belong down there, a simple socket with an extention and a swivel and it's a piece of cake.
04-24-2008, 05:26 PM
#15
I do believe in having the right tool for the job, but I have a really hard time believing this...... I have a plethera of tools, including the U-joint/swivel head you guys describe and it still took me 3 hours to change it on my 99 CA spec Max. There is just too much $hit in the way....ie swirl valve, lever arm for lower butterfly valves etc etc. I think you should post a video on youtube or something and show us how it's done. Seriously. I would love to see it, and this would help many more orgers in the future. 
04-24-2008, 06:01 PM
#17
Just changed this on my 95 max last week. Not sure of the difference between mine and a 97-99 but I used a gear wrench(makes the job easier). The space is too small for a regular wrench. Took me about 45 minutes to an hour. Only because I had to put the wrench on the screw without seeing it. Took some time but after about 10 minutes of trial and error, I knew exactly where to place the wrench to put in on the screw. Next problem was breaking the screw loose. Didn't have enough room to turn it by hand. So I grabbed a long wrench to use as a stick...put it up against the gear wrench while it was on the screw and pushed it. Remember...righty tighty lefty loosy! That gave me enough force to break the screw loose. After that the gear wrench made it as easy as turning the wrench. With a regular wrench you have to keep taking it off and putting it on to actually turn the screw. This is what I would suggest if you only have moderate tools. And you can get a gear wrench for about 10 bucks. Size 12 is what you need. Oh and by the way...I have big hands...and I was still able to get my hand down in there pretty far. Got my middle finger on the screw. And some battle wounds to go along with it!!
04-24-2008, 06:39 PM
#19
04-24-2008, 06:59 PM
#24
Call it intake manifold if you wish, but for most people when you refer to collector and intake manifold, they won't have a clue what you're talking about.
You're being pedantic about it, you know as well as I you've called them UIM and LIM before, and that's the commonly accepted terminology.
It's okay, we're still special friends
You're being pedantic about it, you know as well as I you've called them UIM and LIM before, and that's the commonly accepted terminology.
It's okay, we're still special friends
04-24-2008, 07:21 PM
#29
i have a 97 as well. you should try what i did.
first off. shove your hand down there with the correct socket.
place it correctly on the KS nut.
take the smallest ratchet you can find and carefully place it onto the socket
with the handle of the ratchet sticking somewhat out take a hammer and pry it to the left and you should be able to break that bolt loose.
im 6'3" with huge hands and i did it after literally bleeding all over the engine
good luck
first off. shove your hand down there with the correct socket.
place it correctly on the KS nut.
take the smallest ratchet you can find and carefully place it onto the socket
with the handle of the ratchet sticking somewhat out take a hammer and pry it to the left and you should be able to break that bolt loose.
im 6'3" with huge hands and i did it after literally bleeding all over the engine
good luck
04-24-2008, 07:32 PM
#30
newbie question. I know this sensor has to be tightened correctly but my orignal KS was so tight that it was cracked! It was easy to tell that it was to tight. I just tried to make sure to put it back on straight and tighten enough to not be able to move it. I know its not correct but is it sufficent?
04-24-2008, 07:50 PM
#32
04-24-2008, 10:57 PM
#35
Call it intake manifold if you wish, but for most people when you refer to collector and intake manifold, they won't have a clue what you're talking about.
You're being pedantic about it, you know as well as I you've called them UIM and LIM before, and that's the commonly accepted terminology.
You're being pedantic about it, you know as well as I you've called them UIM and LIM before, and that's the commonly accepted terminology.
Exactly!! Everyone says to just remove the "IM" when it fact that doesn't help at all!!
And yes, I know I'm late to the gangbang........
foursome??
04-25-2008, 08:13 AM
#37
Clearly . .
04-25-2008, 10:11 AM
#40
Accessing the knock sensor
What worked for me was a fine toothed ratchet. Breaking the bolt loose was the hard part. I used a small pry bar on the end of the ratchet handle. It felt like alot more than the 15 lbs torque its suppose to be put on with. Btw you have to take it out w/
connector intact cause it's held on by a wire clip. when out, my KS was totally cracked... good luck.
What worked for me was a fine toothed ratchet. Breaking the bolt loose was the hard part. I used a small pry bar on the end of the ratchet handle. It felt like alot more than the 15 lbs torque its suppose to be put on with. Btw you have to take it out w/
connector intact cause it's held on by a wire clip. when out, my KS was totally cracked... good luck.