modenaf1

iTrader: (3)

AHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAH!!! I had to hacksaw off two of my fingers, half my hand, and break my wrist but I got my new knock sensor installed! W00000t!!


I got a universal joint thingy and a 12 inch extension and managed to get it on the bolt without even sticking my hand in there. I had to jam my hand in and bloody it up majorly though to get it out and put the new one in and the bolt.

Remember I created a thread a while back on if I should buy the A82 knock sensor or the A100? I guess both of those are fairly updated, my old one was an A58 I think, and it was split down the center with dirt and gunk inside. No wonder it didn't work.


I haven't noticed much improvement yet with the "butt dyno" but maybe I have to drive it a bit more for it to get accustomed to a working knock sensor.

It's funny, I rechecked the codes, got a 505 and went "oh ****...whats wrong now" only to learn 505 means no errors found. heheheheheh I'm so happy right now even though my hand isn't.


EDIT: As for that green connector to unplug for more room....still could not unplug that thing. :-/

modenaf1

iTrader: (3)

Are you talking about the stock 4th gen US intake manifold? God I love that thing, it sounds sooo nice.


I dunno if I am missing out on an inside joke to this argument, but over at Taurus club of america we all call them upper intake manifold and lower intake manifold UIM, LIM.


The only thing I have heard the term "collector" in reference to an intake would probably be the gen 1 and gen 2 (1989-1995) Taurus SHO with the Yamaha v6. It's UIM consisted of two "tanks" or "collectors" on each side and had short length and long length intake runners that ran into the individual ports from the "collectors."

I suppose most intake manifolds, including our gen4 US UIM's do have a "collector" or the tanklike part of the manifold where the runners run from there to the engine.

modenaf1

iTrader: (3)

It should be. Mine was cracked too. If I remember right it doesn't require much torque at all, like 10-15 ft lbs if I remember correctly.

Also I heard if you over tighten it, it will be too sensitive to knock supposedly?

blazer777

Better way. Drag yourself down to Sears and buy a 12mm 1/4 inch drive universal socket. It has the swivel built into it. Also buy the longest 1/4 drive extension that they have. It's about 14 inches or so. Total cost is about 17 dollars U.S. They can be found at most Sears on the back wall by
the individual sockets.

Raise the hood and remove the intake box disconnecting two large tubes, 1 small one and the connector to the MAF sensor.

Blow out 11 years of leaves and other assorted creatures from the small canyon where the KS is located. (Curse the Nissan engineer who thought it would be a good idea to put the KS down in there!)

With your new 12mm socket and extension, feed them down to the bolt head and slide them on. Crank the ratchet counter clockwise until you hear the fantastic sound of the bolt coming loose. Slowly loosen the bolt but keep it within the knock sensor. Using the harness, drag both the KS and the bolt out.

To install, attach the new KS to the harness and feed them down into the gap. Using the 1/4 inch extension, you can position it over the location where the bolt needs to sit.

Gently start tightening the bolt. If you feel that it's taking effor to tighten, stop and make sure your not destroying the threads. Better safe than sorry on this one.

Tourqe as needed and pray the code goes away.

New KS can be found on eBay for a third of the price of dealers.
New harness can be had from Courtesy Nissan in Texas. (Order online).

Have used this method several times, it only takes about 15 minutes and the hands don't have a scratch on them.

jmedeir1

iTrader: (1)

wtff?? :/

brm

Thanks to Blazer777. I30 w/ 107,000 miles threw a P0325 code. $60 or so for a new sensor from Partstrain. I tried following the Motorvate instructions, which are primarily useful for showing the location of the sensor. First, it's nice to know it's a 12mm bolt, not mentioned in the Motorvate post. I don't have large hands, although they're not that small, and couldn't maneuver a wrench once I got one into the opening. My wife got the box end of a combination wrench on it, once, and I used that to break the bolt loose, but couldn't turn it. I then read this thread. I thought the 14" extension might foul another part, so got a 6" 1/4" drive extension that I coupled to a 6" 3/8" drive extensionI already had with a 1/4-3/8 coupler, and used the last 12mm 1/4'' universal socket Sears had in stock to remove the sensor. I wouldn't normally buy a tool I'll probably only use once, but I'm not sure any other combination of unversal joint and socket would fit. Installation was the reverse of removal, with the appropriate torque setting supplied by manual calibration (snug, but not cranked down to the point of failure). After 100 miles and a few stops and starts the CEL cleared--including the evap. emiss. code it had also been throwing, and the car does seem to run better. Placebo--maybe, but I don't have to look at that light any more.

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

KS will not throw a CEL .... the evap sys and KS aren't really related, but glad your CEL is gone anyway.

Divewjason

I did it. I wore gloves when I did it, I know I would of cut my hand a lot without wearing those gloves. I had to turn the wrench a little bit at a time. It took about 10 minutes of those small turns but I got it loose and replaced the sensor.

Maybe I should be more clear. I used a 12mm 1/4 inch socket wrench.