Preet S 22

Hi guys,

Earlier today I was running a power wire from the bay to the drunk and I drilled hole into the firewall. The hole, if looking into the engine bay is behind this black circular thing and I was wondering what is was?

The issue I am having is that, now the brakes on my car are rock HARD. They feel like they would feel when the car is off and you pump the brakes. The car stops very slowly.

I really hope that I didn't mess anything up. Please help me if you have any insight!

Thanks,
Preet

MaximaSpd85

iTrader: (14)

brake booster??
where is this black circular thing? left side? ride side? next to.....?

wikidminds

pics would helpa lot. first thing that comes to mind is the booster.

it sounds like u were drilling from inside the cabin to outside in the bay correct?

Preet S 22

Hey,
Thanks for a quick response.

Its right on the other side of the firewall drivers side. Other side of the steering wheel.

I've been reading up, and found that it might be the brake booster as you suggested. Now I am looking up how to change it incase that is what I'm up against tommorrow.

Thanks,
Preet

Preet S 22

Yes correct. I will try and get pictures tommorrow.

I know I really shouldn't have drilled from the inside out.

-Preet

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

You ruptured the brake booster. You no longer have power brake assist, hence the 'hard pedal' feeling (you think that's bad, try a 2 ton A-body with manual brakes and 4-wheel drums...that was fun).

Replace the booster, problem solved.

Always check clearance on both sides of the firewall when drilling, and always use a grommet.

Preet S 22

Hi,

Thanks for the response. That is the conclusion I came up with also after doing some more searching. Do you happen to know how hard it is to change the brake booster? I have some DIY experience (oil changes, tune ups, brakes, axles, etc)

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Move the master cylinder out of the way, unbolt the booster and release from the brake pedal, R&R. That's the basics of it, but never done it on a Maxima personally.

wikidminds

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm


Enjoy! next time becareful where you drill.

Preet S 22

Yea man I definately effed up. Thanks a lot for the directions.

I wound up having to take the whole master cylinder out. (I am going to have bleed the brakes)

After I had that out, I had to take out the four bolts and the attachment to my pedal. Bolts not so bad, Pedal attachment was horrible though. Theres a pin going through the pedal held on by a cotter pin. My pin was on the inside so I couldn't see it. Eventually got it out though.

After that, I couldn't get the booster out. Spent a few hours jiggling it around and finally got it. (its going to suck when I have to put the new one in). There was nice little hole on the booster

Now I have to wait for the booster cause of course its a special order piece.

Thought I was giving myself a treat by installing subs but instead created a problem.

I will check back after installation!

Learning experience: Always search org before doing anything on the car. I could have drilled the hole near the fenderwall had I checked.

Thanks for the help guys.

-Preet

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

For what it's worth, although obviously too late now, there's an existing hole near the center of the firewall that works great to run amp power or anything else. all you have to do is pull off the rubber grommet/cap and you have access to it. It leads into the cabin above the gas pedal. That's where I ran my amp's +12v and RPM switch signal.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....rewall+grommet

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

when reinstalling be carfull not to force it back in so you dont mess up the threads on the studs rubbing on the firewall. also the easy way i found to put it back in is to put it in the holes a little bit under the hood. the holes coming from the brake pedal support might line up but more than likely wont. so what i did was i went in the car and took a prybar and used it as leverage to line up the holes for the treads and i pulled on the linkage that hooks up to the brake pedal.

another way to do it if it doesnt line up is if you have a extra person have them push on the booster while you line it up in the car. but again be carefull not to mess up the threads

about drilling the hole thing dont feel to bad i almost did it when i drilled my hole. i recently had to change my brake booster cause when i put my 00vi in i snapped one of the bolts for the master cylinder.

its a real easy replacement. its just your crammed for space. i swear my back hurt for like 2 days.

to clairify where to put the prybar ill do a little illastration. this is what the brake pedal support looks like(ie metal bracket)
Top
__ <------------- apply pressure here
| |
| |
| |

Bottom

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Why did you remove the master cylinder?

Preet S 22

yea man I really should have searched before starting to drill random holes. But I still might use that hole since this one is a little too close for comfort to the booster.

Preet S 22

Thanks a lot for the advice and illustration. I'll be sure to take it into consideration. My back is killing me too and I just took it out. I'll be installing it in the next week or two so I'll be in pain again! soon.

I have a question though, the bracket wont line up even if you properly measured the distance? I'm trying to avoid as many roadblocks as I can.

Thanks,
-Preet

Preet S 22

Hey guys,

I have one more question. I'm pretty sure I know the answer but I want to make sure.

I should buy a new/rebuilt booster? Its not a good idea to buy a used one right?

Thanks again,
-Preet

f550maranello2

iTrader: (2)

i have replaced it.. its SIMPLE.. just remove the 2 bolts from it, brake lines, and the brake pedal.. ur obviously gonna have to bleed the brakes.. i suggest going to a junk yard and picking up one with a master cylinder attached IT WILL MAKE you life a lot easier.....


oh yea next time drill at the clutch pedal location for your power wire..(unless ur 5 speed)..

Preet S 22

Yea I finally got it out yesterday. The steps to follow are simple. The actual process, atleast for me, was an annoying one. Yea I am waiting on getting a rebuilt one from someone that works at a part remanufacturing factory. If that doesn't work I will most likely get a used one. Some ebay junk yards have em for less than 40 bucks shipped!

Yea that is where the hole is on my buddy's max, but like you said, I have a 5 speed so that wasn't an option.

Thanks for response,
-Preet

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

yeah i got mine for 35 dollars locally. and it worked like a champ. do a search on car-part.com and see if you can find a local junk yard that has one.

EnervinE

iTrader: (11)

Try a 2 1/2 ton '66 chrysler C-body, same brake setup. Except add in that we were hauling it down from 120 mph. A bored 383 is fun

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Aww, you beat me

This was a '73 Duster, 225 slant and a 904...thing was a beast

Preet S 22

Hi guys,

Just an update and a few questions.

I installed a rebuilt booster and hooked up my master cylinder. Reinstall went fairly smooth. But I have two more issues.

1. Air Bag light is blinking due to removal of seats (side airbags). Haven tried the reset procedure as I just read it 2 mins ago. Plan on doing this tomorrow.

2. Brakes feel mushy now. Exact opposite of before. I am hoping that this is due to inproper bleeding ( I left the car in the on position but I just read that I was supposed to do it in the off position). Also, I read that the order of bleeding is RR, FL, RL, FR. Is this the correct order as we have 2 lines?

Would a damaged master cylinder result in these same issues? It was sitting in my garage for about 4 days. Is that bad for it?

Sorry for all the questions and thanks for all the help!
Preet