hey everybody my max is idling really rough and when i get all on it sounds like it is missing. what could this be? Could it be my MAF sensor.
i have a real CAI and a K&N filter. my mechanic said it could be the MAF because we have been having a lot of pollen and it could have got in there and ****ed with the MAF sensor. Could this be? What do yall think?

 

1) See if there are any stored error codes in the ECU.
2) Find another mechanic

 

the car is throwing no codes at all and it is pissing me off. the problem is very eratic

 

Try cleaning the MAF sensor, maybe inspect for vacuum leaks, clean your throttle body and your idle air control valve. Mine wasn't idling too bad, but when I put the clutch in or revved the engine when the RPM's would drop they would drop to about 300 and the engine would almost stall out. Doing the above completely fixed those problems for me and I noticed more power in the lower RPM ranges too.

 

if it sounds like it is missing it probably is. unplug one coil pack at a time while the engine is running. if the idle doesnt change that is the cylinder with your problem. after you isolated the problem to one cylinder you can move the coil and plug to different cylinders. if at that time the problem moved cylinders you know the plug or coil are at fault. if it stayed at the same cylinder you have an injector or internal engine problem. pm me if you need more help.

 

Coil packs. Anytime a 99 idles rough it is almost always coil packs. I went through a lot of trouble to figure that out a few months ago. Even though it is your coil pack though, it doesn't always show up on the ECU until the coil pack is in REALLY bad shape.(Like when it's melting.)

 

test/check the coils pack.I think the maf would of given a code.

 

on the coil packs. While the car is idling, unplug one coil pack at a time and LISTEN to the motor running. If the coil pack that you just unplugged creates a "hiccup" in the idle, then chances are it was a functioning coil. Plug it back in and move on to the next one. The coil pack that doesn't affect the idle at all when unplugged is the faulty one. Even if you find a coil pack that isn't working properly, continue on until you have checked all six of them as there may be more that one non-functioning pack. After that said, its not a bad idea to spray some electrical contact cleaner oh the sensor inside the MAF. But do it ever so carefully and with not too much force of a blast as the sensor is quite sensitive (and costly). Spray it from about 5-6" away. You can grab the cleaner at any Radio Shack for about $9. And since you only need about 2 one second blasts of the spray you can probably return it to the store for a refund but thats up to you. Good luck!

 

I had to replace a coil when this happens to mine.....but only one

 

has any one thought about it being the injectors

 

it could be your knock sensor harness or the knock sensor itself.

 

^^^^+1 usually coil packs with a MAF problem you wouldn't be able to get on it

 

In need of some advice plz....I have a 2000 maxima and for the longest time it has been hard to keep started in cold weather though it will run after a few min. No problems thereafter. 2 weeks ago the car started to have a VERY rough idle and no power-I have taken my car to 2 different mechanics the 1st said O2 sensor and knock sensor bad- the 2nd changed the spark plugs and told me to take it to the dealer b/c its either bad coil packs or ECU is bad. When I picked it up from there it is running MUCH worse by the time I got it home it was smoking by the the firewall!! I need to take it somewhere else but have been doing a lot of research on it and I am wondering should I replace the coil packs or could there be other issues? I hate to spend the money on them and it not solve my problem. I certainly do not want to pay a mechanic to do it b/c I have changed a few in the past. It is giving a misfire code but not a specific cylinder like in the past. Any advice is appreciated and thanks!

 

wrong forum u need 5th gen this is 4th gen 95-99 try postin there you will get better results

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...a-2000-2003-7/

 

You guys do realize that this thread is 3 years old, right???

 

^ I was waiting for it...

 

I am having a similar problem with my 95 maxima.

I am at just over 220k miles. I bought this car a year ago with 207k and it has had no major problems.

I had the oil changed and drove the car around for a few hours running errands and on the highway while coasting to a roll behind some traffic the engine just died. I pulled onto the shoulder and started it up after a few pounds on my steering wheel, much to my surprise she started right up and I continued home. after pulling off the highway the car stalled out at a stop light and then again in the parking lot of the first auto part store I found.

anyways, she is idling funny to say the least and I get a hiccup or two sometimes while accelerating. I dont know if this has anything to do with getting my oil changed but the manager at the place I have it done had a few ideas:

1. Fuel filter needs replacement
2. O2 sensor needs replacement/adjustment
3. Idle sensor
and one of his lube techs said, "sounds like it might be electrical, and that sounds expensive"


Please Help! thanks guys

 

I have a 95 maxima as well and I know EXACTLY what you are talking about. It could be a number of things that need to be replaced. Most of the time, a tune-up solves that. Keep in mind though, a tune up on these cars is not cheap because you have to replace coils which are not cheap.

My car's motor just stopped randomly while I was parked in neutral in a parking spot. But, it did that only once. The motor used to misfire occasionally also. My motor had 120k miles and I wanted to do a full tune up. If you want your car to perform well, I strongly recommend getting OEM spec at least because it makes a BIG difference. Here's what I did...

I bought OEM spec coil packs from Pep Boys, not OEM from Nissan that Hanshin or Mitsubishi manufacture. They are different from OEM because BWD manufactures them. They ran me 69.99/ea for the front cylinders and 75.99/ea for the ones in the back. Also, I got the OEM spark plugs @ 9.99/ea from Pep Boys. They are the platinum tipped spark plugs that NGK makes. The model number is PFR-5g11. The other things like, fuel filter, air filter, etc. you can get away with regular after market brands.

If you don't want to spend so much money, you should try replacing your knock sensor and/or coolant temp sensor. If that doesn't solve it, then you need to get a tune-up.

GOOD LUCK!

 

I think what Im going to try and do is buy some tools this weekend and take apart my intake manifold so I can get into all those sensors and clean out any carbon deposits I can find. I guess I will also have to buy new gaskets and possibly some of the hoses as Im sure they will be brittle and break on me when I pull everything apart.

I will be focusing on the MAF and idle air control valve.

wish me luck!

Ill try and take some pics if I think about it.

 

I have a couple of suggestions:
1. Rev the engine at idle for a minute or so (to 4-5000 rpms). This will push to the limit the air and fuel supply systems. You don't know what crap you will dislodge and burn by doing that.
2. Try to clean the injectors by pouring some fuel injector cleaners into the fuel tank.
3. Remove the air filter housing and disconnect it from the Throttle body. Spray some TB cleaner directly into the TB, while someone is revving the engine to 3-4000 rpms.
The cost of these steps will be about $15.

 

Yes, clean TB and MAF per how tos. CHeck IACV per FSM.. Throw some chevron techron in the fuel tank.

 

I had a whole lot of the symptoms described above on one of mine. The idle would drop drastically at stop lights. Later got worse, seemed like a misfire. Turned out it was the EGR Valve. Found out that was it when my buddy tapped it pretty good with a piece of pipe - idle changed to normal - replaced that, been good ever since

 

^^^ SEAFOAM or Chevron Techron can help with that

 

OLD THREAD IS OLD

 

Tiger shark, glad to see you circling around again. Since you started this thread, I think that you owe to this community the explanation of what was your issue and how did you fix it. Don't you think?

 

It mostly just went away

still has a slight roughness to idle, but nobody else can feel it (im deaf, and my sense of touch has really improved since I lost my hearing). my cousin's feels the same way....dont know what it is. Checked coils, injectors, cleaned the EGR, TB, IACV...dont know, dont really care anymore

 

when I buy these intake cleaners and whatnot, where do I spray them? can I open my air filter enclosure take the filter out and spray directly into the enclosure? or do I have to spray them onto the parts individually after dis-assembly?

 

i also had this problem so i did a tune up steven88 helped me replace the plugs and seafoam the car, cleaned iacv, throttle body while manifold was removed which also gave noticeable improvement in response, but the problem came back!!!

then i had a knock sensor code i have a 99 cali spec so it was a pita and TheWizard actually replaced mine and I commend him for that

but i did not replace the coilpacks as it was a little costly to do all six, and i am the kind of person who wants to replace it all with new coils at the same time for peace of mind

well the problem still happened, its an AT and intermittently only when i stop at red light the engine will seem like its missing or fluttering on the revs/tachometer

then i read an article about grounding the "big 3" so i actually did that today as well with some guys that install turbos and custom stereo/AV and there was a noticeable improvement in acceleration response and no dimming of lights/dash etc

but when i got of the freeway it wasn't as pronounced but the tach did dip one time when i got to a redlight, but i want to see what happens tomorrow (i'll be driving in LA lot of stop n go)

so you could consider doing the grounding wires especially if u have a system and other electrical stuff added on

i did the grounding just to make sure that wasn't the problem before spending a wad on the coilpacks...but eventually that will be the last thing on my list - for this problem (don't really wanna take of the manifold again) but now i found someone local who does good work for cheap and has a lift/garage in compton

 

i ran the "big 3" grounding wires with 1/0 gauge copper wire and ran around all over town this morning (los angeles stop n go)

the idle issue that i had is GONE.

omg i had this problem for almost 3 years...FINALLY!!!

hopefully my coilpacks will stay good and so i don't have to replace them

but i will do that when i install a MEVI

 

^^^^^
Please explain the "big 3". I am having the same troubles and would really like to fix this.

Thanks

 

BigThreeDotCom.com

 

Here is the definition :
the "Big Three" upgrade means improving the current capacity of three cables: 1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis. Some people replace the factory wiring; others add additional cables to the factory wiring. The instructions on how to add cables to existing OEM wiring are on the site.
Enjoy.