wuzzy

iTrader: (3)

I searched but didnt find what I was looking for and I am still reading the sticky. For the longest time my 95 maxima has had no power and hesitates especially in drive while I am stopped and at around 1500 RPMs. We checked the coils and all but 1 was working. We just checked it again and cylinder 5 gets a spark but doesnt fire up. I did the Fault Indicator Light Diagnosis and came up with code "55" which says there is nothing wrong but still hesitates and has no power. Could it be the injector or something else? Because of this happening, I have been putting my mods on hold.

f550maranello2

iTrader: (2)

check the injector with an ohm meter....if its open or short that is ur problem...

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

have you checked your plugs and your gap? and it also sounds like the symptoms of a knock sensor as well

Snypa

iTrader: (35)

fuel filter probably. ???????

A32AusMax

similar problem, i think mines just like that cause its auto

i put the foot to the floor and the revs climb only slightly all the way to 6.5. its like its not dropping back a gear, and after there is a strong smell of fuel like it is running rich

only mods - custom y pipe, catback and K&N panel filter

could it be the throttle cable, which is pretty loose and ive run out of thread lol

oh yeah - no codes, both with self diagnosis and dealer checked with the computer

24K on da way

check your fuel filter, coil pack, spark plugs, injectors especially or even you knock sensor but I really think it my be your injectors...

wuzzy

iTrader: (3)

I checked the coils (just 1 doesnt fire up) and all the sparkplugs and ended up replacing all the sparkplugs while I was at it. I am gonna have to check the injector and most likely replace. Gonna check the knock sensor nice sunny day we get.

redwagon29

iTrader: (2)

if one doesn't fire up... there is your problem my friend...

91parkave

iTrader: (1)

Before ripping your **** apart, check out your TPS and MAF sensors and ensure they are in proper spec

shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

EDIT:

0603 0604 0605 0606 0607 0608
If one cylinder is misfiring the problem is spark or fuel. A misfire due to a spark problem usually results in a Service Engine Soon light and one of these Diagnostic Trouble Codes:
0608 - Cylinder 1 misfire
0607 - Cylinder 2 misfire
0606 - Cylinder 3 misfire
0605 - Cylinder 4 misfire
0604 - Cylinder 5 misfire
0603 - Cylinder 6 misfire

There are two tests the home mechanic can make, the sound test and the resistance test.

Sound test...
This test is performed with the engine idling. Use a mechanic's
stethoscope or a length of rubber vacuum hose, and listen to each injector.
All injectors should sound alike. If you find one which makes a different
sound (or no sound at all) you have found a problem.

Resistance test...
This test is performed with the engine off. Use an ohmmeter to measure the
resistance of each injector. This does not require removing the injectors.
I don't know the correct resistance value for the injectors on your model,
but they are typically a low number such as 16 ohms. The important thing
is they should all be equal. If you find one injector with substantially
higher resistance than the others, it is bad. If you find one with zero
ohms (short circuit) that is truly unfortunate, because the injector is bad
and it may also have damaged the Engine Control Module (the computer)
because of excessive current drain.

Measuring the resistance of the front bank of cylinders is easy because the
injectors are in plain view. Disconnect the injector electrical connector
for cylinder #2, measure the resistance, reconnect the connector. Repeat
for the cylinders #4 and #6.

Measuring the resistance of the rear bank of cylinders is almost as easy,
but it is difficult to reach the injectors. The resistance may be measured
at a conveniently located electrical connector. Notice the largest,
thickest electrical harness at the top of the engine. This is the Engine
Control Harness and it is shaped like a U, with the open top of the U at the
driver's side of the car. The U has two corners. Look at the corner
nearest the passenger seat. Just inside that corner you will find an 8-pin
electrical connector. This is connector F131. Disconnect this
connector. Now look at the male part, the connector half with the pins
exposed. They are arranged in two rows of four pins.
The pins are numbered 1 - 4 (top row) and 5 - 8 (bottom row).
Measure the resistance of:
- injector #1 between pins 1 and 2.
- injector #3 between pins 1 and 6.
- injector #5 between pins 1 and 5.
Be sure to measure the PINS, not the female receptacles.

The dealer's shop is equipped with high-tech diagnostic instruments. These are wonderful devices but they are expensive and the dealer has to recover his cost by charging you for diagnostic time. Sometimes the home mechanic can do legitimate diagnostic work with nothing more than a ohmmeter and a rubber tube.

To Test Ignition Coils:
With the ignition off, disconnect the electrical connector from the ignition coil. Connect the positive (+) probe of an ohmmeter to terminal no. 1 and the negative (-) probe to terminal no. 2 of the coil connector - the meter should indicate infinite resistance. Reverse the meter leads ( negative probe to terminal no. 1 and positive probe to terminal no.2) - the continuity should be indicated, but not zero ohms. If the results are not as specified, replace the coil.
Connect an ohmmeter between the secondary terminal ( the one that the spark plug connects to) and terminal no. 1 - the meter should indicate infinite resistance. If not, replace the coil.
Note - Ohm meter to test coils is not the most reliable way. Some peoples’ coils tested perfectly, but they still misfired.

wuzzy

iTrader: (3)

I did everything in your post shadyonedeath. It is def the #5 injector. I did the ohms meter and the stethoscope tests. I ordered one and should be here early next week. While I was at it, ordered a knock sensor and gonna replace that too. Ill let you know what happens once everything is done

wuzzy

iTrader: (3)

well I replaced my injector and knock sensor last week. Took a long time to do but got it done. The max runs like new now, no skipping or anything.

blindsideboarder

Thank you wuzzy and shadyonedeath; This post helped me solve the shaking misfire issue I have been driving with for about a year.

I would like to add:

shadyonedeath's instructions on how to test the coil packs are correct, HOWEVER, in many cases including mine, the pack works fine on startup but starts intermittently failing and causing a misfire. The ohm test did not show any failures. This post explains that this is due to an insulation failure: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-symptoms.html

HOW TO TEST THE COIL PACKS:

Simply unplug each coil pack from its harness while the engine is running. In my case as I unplugged each coil, the engine began to ran even more rough than before. When I reached the bad coil, unplugging it removed the rough idle and it began running stably on 5 cylinders instead of having the one coil misfiring randomly. I replaced that coil and now the engine runs perfectly! I also used the mechanics' stethascope method for checking the injectors, but found them to be working well.

loxety

If the engine is running on 5 cylinders is there still fuel being pumped in to the cylinder that isnt firing?