shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

Im so pissed off. I was about to replace it and Soon as I put the new one in i started torquing it, which didnt even seem like much force, but it snapped and now the bolt just spins freely not locking in.



What now?

99BlackMaxMS

iTrader: (85)

Either take off the IM and drill/tap it out or relocate the knock sensor.

shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

anyone tried this?




99black, wont i have to use a larger size tap since the hole doesnt have anymore meat? Wont that prevent the new bolt from fitting the knock sensor hole?

shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

bump

going to attempt this. Not sure if i should put the JB-weld on the bolt or in the hole. (jb weld is pretty much the same thing as the product above).

mevjen

Retap the hole, or drill it out and use a heli-coil.

shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

know what size i need?

huyqvu

iTrader: (10)

id used heli-coils. is the bolt stripped too?

shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

No. Just hole.


Where do you buy helicoils? Im guessing there really expensive...cant find nothing but master kits on google.

sicivic89

iTrader: (58)

No, helicoils aren't too expensive. I would say under $10. Some helicoil kits come with the correct drill bit and tap.

shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-10-MM-X-1-50...QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-10-MM-X-1-50...QQcmdZViewItem


Found these. Are the thread pitch for KS 12mm bolts x1.50 or x1.25?

maximomo

iTrader: (2)

Just put the KS on the top of the intake manifold near the throttle body and be done with it. No need for the thread repair once you get the KS out.

shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

wut do u mean? wont that effect its ability to detect knocking? And exactly where on top of IM?

sicivic89

iTrader: (58)

I believe they are 1.25 if it a standard 10mm bolt.

maximomo

iTrader: (2)

The knock sensor is just a failsafe mechanism to keep you from damaging your valves if something is wrong with your engine and causes it to ping. If your injectors are clean and you run the proper octane gas and you keep your engine tuned up and clean then you will never have a knock during normal conditions--under any type of load.
I've been running mine on my intake for more than 35k miles with ZERO trouble.

Here is a picture of where mine are located on both my Max and I30:

shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

lol neat.

ill give it a try. thanks

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

If it were me, I wouldn't relocate the KS to the IM. I would look at another place either in the valley, or on the block somewhere. The IM might cause the KS to loose some of it's effectiveness it might not be able to sense less intense detonation. Of course that's me.

S

MadMaxSE-L

iTrader: (4)

WERD.

The knock sensor will actually pull ignition timing out when it senses detonation - something it can't do as effectively if it is located all the way up on the IM IMHO. There are numerous gaskets and whatnot the sound/vibration has to through in order to get to the KS that way. Leave it in the valley and do it right...

And you are going to hurt your aluminum pistons before you hurt the steel valves with detonation; it's a good way to break a piston if it gets bad enough. Granted, you shouldn't be getting detonation if you are using premium gas, but if it is hot enough outside and the engine gets loaded down in the right, you CAN get it.

-Matt

maxx0831

iTrader: (2)

I would retap it... Maximomo, wow thats a good idea of what u done. Thats way better.

shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

Im confused. is it a 10mm or 12mm bolt?


would 12mm also be 1.25 pitch? Need to find a place where they sell helicoil kits...can anyone recommend one?

huyqvu

iTrader: (10)

Any autoparts store will have helicoil. If not i think home depot has it

shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

My maxima has the Idle air control valve where you put ur knock sensor. I want to use this location temporarily until i find a helicoil. How did u remove the threaded rods that where there? Mine uses nuts to hold the Idle air control valve.

maximomo

iTrader: (2)

I'd like to see a picture of that. I have never seen a 4th gen engine that didn't look exactly like the one in the picture--and I've been under the hood of a lot of 'em.

BTW, you don't have to mount it where I did. You can mount it anywhere that you can get it grounded. The only reason I even use a knock sensor is because I might sell the car someday and have to put it back where it belongs. In fact, I've used resistors in place of the KS to fake out the ECM.

shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/7...vschemaxu2.gif

maximomo

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I figured that out--I didn't pay attention to the fact that you're in LA.

I moved out of CA in 91 so I haven't been under the hood of a Cali 4th gen.

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

Man, if you were boosted like I am, you'd rethink putting resistors in to mimic a KS. Even N/A, depending on what mods you do, I really think it's a bad idea to do that. Maybe for light mods it'd be okay...but I wouldn't ever recommend it to anyone. If you don't get the resistors right, the ECU can pull quite a bit of timing, and can make a HUGE difference in performance, and at times, you won't get a CEL neccessarily.

S

maximomo

iTrader: (2)

First, I would only do this on a stock engine or one that has had simple mods done like CAI and exhaust upgrades. Engines that have been performance modified fall into a different realm altogether.

Second, there is a HUGE misconception of how the KS works on a 4th gen. It has NOTHING to do with timing unless there is a knock detected. Then it sends a signal to the ECM which retards the timing. During normal operating conditions (meaning non-ping conditions) the timing is preprogrammed in the ECM and is varied based on what the ECM has been programmed to do with changes in input from the TPS, cam and cranksensors, MAF, etc.

I'm just telling you what I've experienced and what I've read in the Nissan FSM.

I know what you're thinking. I've also read those detailed posts showing different specs with and without the KS. The problem is that those comparisons were done using a KS installed then NO KS. When the ECM sees NO KS it operates in failsafe mode and uses retarded timing parameters programmed for failsafe. When the KS is put back on it switches to standard parameters.

IF you would do the same comparison with a 600 ohm resistor in place of the KS you would find the EXACT same timing as with the KS. The ECM only knows whether the KS is attached and working based on voltage drop on that circuit. Once it knows the KS is attached it doesn't care about the KS unless the voltage changes on that circuit--like when the KS detects pinging.

If there is some documentation or proof you can provide me that tells otherwise I would love to read it.

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

You weren't clear about this from the start. The likelihood is someone here is likely to have more than a mod or two. Not exactly something to be recommending without that little caveat. Besides, the point I'm trying to relay is do it right. If you don't want to replace your KS in the same spot, find somewhere else on the block and you're golden. No little hacks...especially if you plan to mod more heavily. I've done my fair share of hacks before...it just winds up being more of a hassle down the road. Not worth the convenience.

S

mevjen

I would check Autozone, I am almost sure they have the size you would need. Plus, take the KS to the store and use there thread sizing board to select the correct diameter and pitch you need.

FallenOne

iTrader: (17)

Its a 12mm Bolt for the record incase you havent been answered that yet,

my question to you my friend is... did you remove the UIM as directed by any instruction on the face of the planet or were you being a rebel and attempting the bloody fingers method?

shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

i used a Universal join socket wrench.


I know its a 12mm, but whats the Pitch? 1.25? x.150? x 1.00?

MadMaxSE-L

iTrader: (4)

What does not taking the UIM off got to do with overtightening the bolt

There's no way I'd spend all that time taking the UIM off to do a 5 minute job otherwise...

It's just a 12mm fine thread bolt IIRC; there are fine thread, coarse thread and IIRC what's called "constant" threads that are used in machines(not so much on cars...). Just go ask for a 12mm fine thread bolt and you should be good to go.

-Matt

choray911

iTrader: (1)

I have run my car with the KS bolted to the upper intake for 6 years while boosed. Takes 5 min. If you look at the picture it is bolted at the base of the upper intake manifold, where it meets the lower manifold, right next to the front injectors.

shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

sweetness

u buy a longer bolt? Wut size?

choray911

iTrader: (1)

I think I just used the bolt that was already there. Just don't crank her down too tight this time. Back off on the roids.