Starting problems
#1
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Townsville, Australia
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Starting problems
Hi all,
My fiancée has a 1995 Maxima that when you start it sometimes it will take about 20 - 30 seconds of cranking to start.
The starter motor is good and has recently been replaced and there is no problem with battery charge.
Just recently the problem has got a bit worse and just after the car starts it tends to splutter momentarily, but once running it seems to be fine.
I know for a fact the fuel filter has never been replaced and I will do this over the weekend, but I can't help but think there must be something else in this problem.
Any advice greatly appreciated.
My fiancée has a 1995 Maxima that when you start it sometimes it will take about 20 - 30 seconds of cranking to start.
The starter motor is good and has recently been replaced and there is no problem with battery charge.
Just recently the problem has got a bit worse and just after the car starts it tends to splutter momentarily, but once running it seems to be fine.
I know for a fact the fuel filter has never been replaced and I will do this over the weekend, but I can't help but think there must be something else in this problem.
Any advice greatly appreciated.
#5
I thought the same until I added the new ground. Maybe your answer is here though...http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=561188
#6
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Location: Townsville, Australia
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yep.. looks like the issue we're having, though the topic never really came to a conclusion...
I'm going to try the following:
IACV Clean
Fuel Filter
ECTS
EGR Valve Check
I have multiple grounding points already so it cant be that...
I'll see how I go
I'm going to try the following:
IACV Clean
Fuel Filter
ECTS
EGR Valve Check
I have multiple grounding points already so it cant be that...
I'll see how I go
#7
So the engine cranks and cranks and eventually does start but sputters for a few seconds until it clears up? What happens if you rev it while it is sputtering once you get is started? Does hella black smoke shoot our for a few seconds then goes away?
If so I would suspect a leaking fuel injector or more. Those can flood the engine while its off and cause similar symptoms to what your describing. What you can do it hook up a fuel pressure gauge, start the car then turn it off and watch the pressure gauge. If it drops to zero in less than say 10 mins you definately have a leakin injector.
If so I would suspect a leaking fuel injector or more. Those can flood the engine while its off and cause similar symptoms to what your describing. What you can do it hook up a fuel pressure gauge, start the car then turn it off and watch the pressure gauge. If it drops to zero in less than say 10 mins you definately have a leakin injector.
#8
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Well thats the funny thing.. no black smoke at all.
It only happens when the car is warm. Ie. You stop the car somewhere, then 5 - 15 minutes later crank the car.
We only bought the car last December, so I don't know what has been serviced and what hasn't.
I have replaced the Fuel Filter with one from a 300ZX TT, and I also found that the fuel lines from the filter to the injector railing were perishing - so I swapped it out for a new fuel hose. The old fuel filter looked OEM. When I tipped it upside down a heap of fuel mixed with grainy bits of dirt and grime came out of it. Obviously needed replacing.
I also took the IACV off (handy when trying to get to the fuel filter), took it apart and cleaned it out with TB cleaner. Lets just say it was full of gunk. And I mean... PACKED with gunk.
I've also put some Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant in the fuel to clean the injectors and do the obvious.
I also replaced all the spark plugs and found the electrodes to be quite white.. I assume this means at some point the car was cooking somewhat.
I checked the EGR Valve and it moves freely - so it can't be stuck open.
After this, the car idles a lot smoother and the exhaust (Warpspeed Y-Pipe and Muffler) is a LOT louder. Headache inducing loud - whereas before it tended to be a lot quieter. Also, it seems to have more power and revs out more willingly.
Since it's my Wife's car, i'll let her drive it around a bit and see how she goes with it.
If this hasn't solved the problem then i'll get onto the ECTS. Seems like its in a really easy place to swap out - so I'm happy. Especially after the fuel filter. It's the third one i've done on a Maxima, and every time its been a pain. It'd be a lot easier with a hoist!
It only happens when the car is warm. Ie. You stop the car somewhere, then 5 - 15 minutes later crank the car.
We only bought the car last December, so I don't know what has been serviced and what hasn't.
I have replaced the Fuel Filter with one from a 300ZX TT, and I also found that the fuel lines from the filter to the injector railing were perishing - so I swapped it out for a new fuel hose. The old fuel filter looked OEM. When I tipped it upside down a heap of fuel mixed with grainy bits of dirt and grime came out of it. Obviously needed replacing.
I also took the IACV off (handy when trying to get to the fuel filter), took it apart and cleaned it out with TB cleaner. Lets just say it was full of gunk. And I mean... PACKED with gunk.
I've also put some Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant in the fuel to clean the injectors and do the obvious.
I also replaced all the spark plugs and found the electrodes to be quite white.. I assume this means at some point the car was cooking somewhat.
I checked the EGR Valve and it moves freely - so it can't be stuck open.
After this, the car idles a lot smoother and the exhaust (Warpspeed Y-Pipe and Muffler) is a LOT louder. Headache inducing loud - whereas before it tended to be a lot quieter. Also, it seems to have more power and revs out more willingly.
Since it's my Wife's car, i'll let her drive it around a bit and see how she goes with it.
If this hasn't solved the problem then i'll get onto the ECTS. Seems like its in a really easy place to swap out - so I'm happy. Especially after the fuel filter. It's the third one i've done on a Maxima, and every time its been a pain. It'd be a lot easier with a hoist!
Last edited by jordandalley; 06-08-2008 at 07:54 PM.
#11
Same Issue?
So the engine cranks and cranks and eventually does start but sputters for a few seconds until it clears up? What happens if you rev it while it is sputtering once you get is started? Does hella black smoke shoot our for a few seconds then goes away?
If so I would suspect a leaking fuel injector or more. Those can flood the engine while its off and cause similar symptoms to what your describing. What you can do it hook up a fuel pressure gauge, start the car then turn it off and watch the pressure gauge. If it drops to zero in less than say 10 mins you definately have a leakin injector.
If so I would suspect a leaking fuel injector or more. Those can flood the engine while its off and cause similar symptoms to what your describing. What you can do it hook up a fuel pressure gauge, start the car then turn it off and watch the pressure gauge. If it drops to zero in less than say 10 mins you definately have a leakin injector.
#13
Well thats the funny thing.. no black smoke at all.
It only happens when the car is warm. Ie. You stop the car somewhere, then 5 - 15 minutes later crank the car.
We only bought the car last December, so I don't know what has been serviced and what hasn't.
I have replaced the Fuel Filter with one from a 300ZX TT, and I also found that the fuel lines from the filter to the injector railing were perishing - so I swapped it out for a new fuel hose. The old fuel filter looked OEM. When I tipped it upside down a heap of fuel mixed with grainy bits of dirt and grime came out of it. Obviously needed replacing.
I also took the IACV off (handy when trying to get to the fuel filter), took it apart and cleaned it out with TB cleaner. Lets just say it was full of gunk. And I mean... PACKED with gunk.
I've also put some Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant in the fuel to clean the injectors and do the obvious.
I also replaced all the spark plugs and found the electrodes to be quite white.. I assume this means at some point the car was cooking somewhat.
I checked the EGR Valve and it moves freely - so it can't be stuck open.
It only happens when the car is warm. Ie. You stop the car somewhere, then 5 - 15 minutes later crank the car.
We only bought the car last December, so I don't know what has been serviced and what hasn't.
I have replaced the Fuel Filter with one from a 300ZX TT, and I also found that the fuel lines from the filter to the injector railing were perishing - so I swapped it out for a new fuel hose. The old fuel filter looked OEM. When I tipped it upside down a heap of fuel mixed with grainy bits of dirt and grime came out of it. Obviously needed replacing.
I also took the IACV off (handy when trying to get to the fuel filter), took it apart and cleaned it out with TB cleaner. Lets just say it was full of gunk. And I mean... PACKED with gunk.
I've also put some Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant in the fuel to clean the injectors and do the obvious.
I also replaced all the spark plugs and found the electrodes to be quite white.. I assume this means at some point the car was cooking somewhat.
I checked the EGR Valve and it moves freely - so it can't be stuck open.
did you find out what was causing it?
was it a leaking injector? thats one of the few things on your list i havent tried
#14
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Townsville, Australia
Posts: 538
well to be honest.. its been two days and I haven't had any problems with the car starting. Although, it's still too early to be certain that the issue has been cleared up so I guess time will tell.
Not sure about the injectors to be honest. They would have to be the LAST thing I would try. The back 3 injectors look like they require the IM to be taken off. If it hasn't cleared up, I'm thinking of checking the injectors when I put a VI on.
Funny you should mention injectors - since the spacers were installed on the IM - maybe one of your injectors were damaged in the process?
Not sure about the injectors to be honest. They would have to be the LAST thing I would try. The back 3 injectors look like they require the IM to be taken off. If it hasn't cleared up, I'm thinking of checking the injectors when I put a VI on.
Funny you should mention injectors - since the spacers were installed on the IM - maybe one of your injectors were damaged in the process?
Last edited by jordandalley; 06-09-2008 at 04:35 PM.
#16
maybe you could check for your fuel pressure?...maybe your regulator is not good anymore?....or maybe you got a leaking injector?....I'm telling you this cause i got a similar problem on mine..when i drove the car around for a while, when i park it for aprox 30 min, the starter can crank up to 15 sec before getting started, but only when the engine is not cold...so i'll have to check this out, really pissin me off...
Last edited by thegontran; 06-19-2008 at 09:06 AM.
#17
hey. my max would not start occasionally or take several cranks for 6mo. no ecu code. finally it would not start for 30 minutes one day, just cranked and cranked. ohmed out my front crankshaft position sensor and it was out of spec... it was worse on hot days, typical of electronics. cost 86$ thru nissan but now she starts immediately. its near where you change your oil... use a 10mm socket to remove the two bolts and unhook the sucker when shes cold. ohm it out, should be 400-600ohms i think.
#18
I have the same problem, in hot weather, after the engine has been running and is hot, if I try to start it again within 20-60 minutes it is almost impossible to get it to fire up, and when it does it sputters a bit at 400-500rpm.
I thought maybe it was a fuel pressure issue or something, so now every time I go to start it I prime the fuel pump a few times by turning the key to on and off to on to off to on, and then trying to start. That did nothing.
Also, when I drive and put the clutch in, the RPM's have started to drop really low, like 400 or so then bounce back up.
Here is what I have done to the car about a month ago:
1.) Cleaned IACV and TB
2.) New fuel filter (300zx)
3.) New spark plugs
4.) New o2 sensors
I thought maybe it was a fuel pressure issue or something, so now every time I go to start it I prime the fuel pump a few times by turning the key to on and off to on to off to on, and then trying to start. That did nothing.
Also, when I drive and put the clutch in, the RPM's have started to drop really low, like 400 or so then bounce back up.
Here is what I have done to the car about a month ago:
1.) Cleaned IACV and TB
2.) New fuel filter (300zx)
3.) New spark plugs
4.) New o2 sensors
#20
Thats the thing too, on the first or second try, I could crank it on the starter all day long and it won't fire up. By the third try though, its like I just bump it on the starter and it fires right up.
#22
i have the same problem, it takes a couple of seconds to start. like 6 or 7 then when it starts sometimes it sputters for atleast 3 seconds then its fine, let me know when you guys figure something out then i will try to do what you guys did.
#26
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Townsville, Australia
Posts: 538
almost a week. thus far, no problems with starting warm after installing a custom made grounding kit... will let you know if I have further problems.. otherwise its crank angle sensor time
#29
#31
What happened here after?
I have the same problem. I removed my Vortech FMU (I'm Supercharged) last week and swapped in am AEM FPR & BEGI FMU and was doing some tuning. I stopped on the highway, and the car would not start back up.
I ended up getting it home, and swapped everythign back because I needed to get to work the next morning, and now I have the same problem as you.
It cranks hard, but will not start. After a few tries it usually starts, but sometimes it takes over 20-30 tries. The problem is worse when you take a short trip and start after a few mins like you described.
Did the Crankshaft pos. sensor work?
And which obe did you replace (Oil filter side or trans side)?
Thanks.
I have the same problem. I removed my Vortech FMU (I'm Supercharged) last week and swapped in am AEM FPR & BEGI FMU and was doing some tuning. I stopped on the highway, and the car would not start back up.
I ended up getting it home, and swapped everythign back because I needed to get to work the next morning, and now I have the same problem as you.
It cranks hard, but will not start. After a few tries it usually starts, but sometimes it takes over 20-30 tries. The problem is worse when you take a short trip and start after a few mins like you described.
Did the Crankshaft pos. sensor work?
And which obe did you replace (Oil filter side or trans side)?
Thanks.
#32
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Townsville, Australia
Posts: 538
Well I've given up now. I didn't do the Crank Angle sensor as I never got around to it during all the crap I went through buying a house just recently.
It has however been doing some stranger things since the weather has warmed up. I live in the tropics, so it's just starting to get above 90 degrees recently in the daytime. Will probably get to 100 or so in a few months.
Anyway.. I have been stopped at the lights recently, and all of a sudden the car just stops. It dies. I go to restart it and it takes about 30 seconds on cranking, then it splutters and finally comes back to life.
I have it due to hit the mechanic on Wednesday. He thinks its an ignition issue. I told him to look at the ECTS and Crank Angle sensors.. but since its been dying at the lights, it may be a separate issue all together.
It has however been doing some stranger things since the weather has warmed up. I live in the tropics, so it's just starting to get above 90 degrees recently in the daytime. Will probably get to 100 or so in a few months.
Anyway.. I have been stopped at the lights recently, and all of a sudden the car just stops. It dies. I go to restart it and it takes about 30 seconds on cranking, then it splutters and finally comes back to life.
I have it due to hit the mechanic on Wednesday. He thinks its an ignition issue. I told him to look at the ECTS and Crank Angle sensors.. but since its been dying at the lights, it may be a separate issue all together.
#33
I guess I'm not alone saying that I have the same problem. Had it for the past 3 years almost. I just keep pumping the gas as im starting and it eventually starts up. Oh well, I guess I can expect that at 167K.
#34
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I'll let you know what my cars problem was once it's fixed.
When I was driving home last night, it crapped out again at the lights. Then when I was cruising home it started spluttering and backfiring. It's currently at home in the driveway. Going to get a tow truck to haul it down to the garage first thing tomorrow morning.
When I was driving home last night, it crapped out again at the lights. Then when I was cruising home it started spluttering and backfiring. It's currently at home in the driveway. Going to get a tow truck to haul it down to the garage first thing tomorrow morning.
#36
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Replaced.
My mechanic has called me back to inform me that he tested the fuel pressure and it was fluctuating up and down. He pulled the fuel filter off that I replaced about 4 months ago and said it rattled. wtf!! He said, since fuel filters dont have moving parts that was a little weird. He put a new one on and the fuel pressure went up 10 psi and stayed stable.
He's also done a clean of the injectors using some random machine which pumps combustible solvent into the car while running just in case its a leaking injector as well.
The car returned no codes, so the mech says he doesnt think its the ECTS or the Crank Angle, but if this doesnt fix the problem, he will check the sensors manually with an oscilloscope or something...
Will let you know if this has fixed the problem, but if you notice from my earlier posts in this thread, that I was having problems starting the car BEFORE i changed the filter last time. Either way it needed doing. I hope it was a leaking injector.
My question now to any experts that pass by this thread is:
- Does the ECTS or the Crank Angle Sensor actually return a code on the ECU? Or can it sometimes slip past the ecu's radar?
My mechanic has called me back to inform me that he tested the fuel pressure and it was fluctuating up and down. He pulled the fuel filter off that I replaced about 4 months ago and said it rattled. wtf!! He said, since fuel filters dont have moving parts that was a little weird. He put a new one on and the fuel pressure went up 10 psi and stayed stable.
He's also done a clean of the injectors using some random machine which pumps combustible solvent into the car while running just in case its a leaking injector as well.
The car returned no codes, so the mech says he doesnt think its the ECTS or the Crank Angle, but if this doesnt fix the problem, he will check the sensors manually with an oscilloscope or something...
Will let you know if this has fixed the problem, but if you notice from my earlier posts in this thread, that I was having problems starting the car BEFORE i changed the filter last time. Either way it needed doing. I hope it was a leaking injector.
My question now to any experts that pass by this thread is:
- Does the ECTS or the Crank Angle Sensor actually return a code on the ECU? Or can it sometimes slip past the ecu's radar?
Last edited by jordandalley; 09-23-2008 at 11:50 PM.