Service engine light
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Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,005
Service engine light
Months ago my service engine light came on. Naturally I took it to my mechanic to have it diagnosed. He said the code came up for the knock sensor. He reset it and told me if it came back on, let him know and he would do the job. Eventually it did come back on, but being very busy I just didn't have the time to get her in. The car has been running like a champ. Over the past several months the light comes on and goes off. I spoke with my mechanic and asked if there is any danger of damaging my engine. He told me "no, only if your engine starts knocking." So since this will probably be at least a $400 fix, I'll put it off for a while. My outer CV boots need replacing. My mechanic told me it would be cheaper to simply swap out new front axles, which is what I plan to do. Any input from you guys who may have had experience with these things is very welcomed.
1, Knock sensor doesn NOT make the CEL light come on. There is another code that he is not telling you about.. take it to a autozone or advanced auto, one of them will read your codes for free and tell you what it is.
2, someone else can come in and chime about the CV boots..
2, someone else can come in and chime about the CV boots..
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 14
CV boots and axel may cost you, but for Knock Sensor, dont bother giving money, just buy the darn thing, find someone with small hands to get rid of the old one and put the new one in. Shouldnt be hard, its just irritating to get to it.
Correct, the knock sensor does NOT throw the CEL. There must be another code that wasn't mentioned. The best way is to check the car for codes yourself. Check the stickies, there is a guide to pulling the codes, and decoding them yourself. It is VERY easy. If you did want to replace your knock sensor, it does not cost $400 bucks to replace as long as you do it yourself. I bought a brand new knock sensor for $40 bucks, took 15 minutes to remove the old and install the new. There are also guides to help do this too.
Axles are also pretty straight forward. I made the mistake and had a mechanic change mine. If I could, I would go back in time and do it myself to save $400 in labor costs. There are also guides for changing these too. Just as a tip, many Maxima owners swear by Raxle axles. You'll probably never have to worry about them again.
If you feel you are capable, and want to save money, I highly suggest doing basic fixes yourself. Unless it's a major problem, or something you have spare money to throw around, then find a good mechanic and let em' have at it.
Axles are also pretty straight forward. I made the mistake and had a mechanic change mine. If I could, I would go back in time and do it myself to save $400 in labor costs. There are also guides for changing these too. Just as a tip, many Maxima owners swear by Raxle axles. You'll probably never have to worry about them again.
If you feel you are capable, and want to save money, I highly suggest doing basic fixes yourself. Unless it's a major problem, or something you have spare money to throw around, then find a good mechanic and let em' have at it.
No Problem....
and you may not need a new knock sensor, usually that code will come up if somethin else trips it to appear when the cel comes on.. Fix whatever the other code is first, reset the ECU, and if the light doesnt come back on, after 100 miles or so, you can hook the code reader, or do it the old fashion way with the screw driver, and read the blinking lights and see if the knock sensor code is still there. if the code is still there (even with the light off) then you will need a new knock sensor. Check the stickies, they will tell you how to do it *if your hands are small enough, or if you have the right extensions*
also in the stickies is how to read the CEL without the use of the OBDII tool.
and you may not need a new knock sensor, usually that code will come up if somethin else trips it to appear when the cel comes on.. Fix whatever the other code is first, reset the ECU, and if the light doesnt come back on, after 100 miles or so, you can hook the code reader, or do it the old fashion way with the screw driver, and read the blinking lights and see if the knock sensor code is still there. if the code is still there (even with the light off) then you will need a new knock sensor. Check the stickies, they will tell you how to do it *if your hands are small enough, or if you have the right extensions*
also in the stickies is how to read the CEL without the use of the OBDII tool.
the knock sensor is easy to change, as for the CV boots if your car isn't clicking when you turn you can just replace the torn boots only. When I had my 4th gen Max I did my own sensor and had my mechanic do the boots, he just repacked them in grease and put new boots on.
Based on the amount of time you've been driving with busted CV boots, you now can't just replace the boots. You now have to replace the whole axle and boot like your mechanic stated.
just do yourself a favor and replace the whole axle it is cheaper and easier. and i personally would change those yourself. iirc its like a 36mm for the axle bolt.
take off tire
undo the axle bolt
remove one side of axle out of the hub
yank on axle(have pan underneath tranny where the axle goes into the tranny)
inspect seal where the axle goes into the tranny. if need be replace and get the part #off the .org
put some grease on the hub side.
reassemble
the passengers side can be a little more difficult though.
that is really a quick flyby and i skipped a few steps but it seriously that easy. look into a chiltons for a more discriptive explaination
take off tire
undo the axle bolt
remove one side of axle out of the hub
yank on axle(have pan underneath tranny where the axle goes into the tranny)
inspect seal where the axle goes into the tranny. if need be replace and get the part #off the .org
put some grease on the hub side.
reassemble
the passengers side can be a little more difficult though.
that is really a quick flyby and i skipped a few steps but it seriously that easy. look into a chiltons for a more discriptive explaination
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 371
From: Nashville, TN
Here is my two cents.
Do it all your self. Like said, find someone with small hands for the knock sensor.
Don't waste your time putting new boots on. It is messy and time consuming. I did it once, then one of the new boots got ripped. I just replaced the shaft the second time around. Much easier. Stock units are not that expensive.
Do it all your self. Like said, find someone with small hands for the knock sensor.
Don't waste your time putting new boots on. It is messy and time consuming. I did it once, then one of the new boots got ripped. I just replaced the shaft the second time around. Much easier. Stock units are not that expensive.
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I bet a failing O2 sensor, which is most likely why the CEL is turning on, is also causing the KS code to pop up.
As others have suggested, when the light is on again, pull the codes yourself so you can see what is really going on.
And find another mechanic.... $400 to change a KS is absolutely crazy. It's a 20 min. job and a $60 part.
As others have suggested, when the light is on again, pull the codes yourself so you can see what is really going on.
And find another mechanic.... $400 to change a KS is absolutely crazy. It's a 20 min. job and a $60 part.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 585
From: London, ON, CANADA
Yeah a bad KS will cause power loss. Do this job yourself, Ive done it only once and it took about 20 mins for the whole job(some shops will say you have to take off the UIM and all that is BS. I HAVE had ONLY the KS code come on without anything else, replaced the KS and CEL went away. As for the axles do them yourself also, its pretty easy. The only tricky part is if you cant get the axle out of the support bracket on the passenger side, but dont worry it can be removed with the bracket still attached, just get someone to pry down on the control arm and it should fit through with you pulling it out.
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,005
While I appreciate the input you all gave, you guys assume way too much about my talents around a vehicle. I have zero inclination towards auto mechanics. I am positive I could learn and use the stickies, etc. to get me through some work on my car, but I don't generally have any spare time to do such projects. I checked at Advance Auto. The young man who checked my codes confirmed it was a knock sensor and he showed me what he was looking at as it came up on his screen. Now, how can you guys all say it doesn't throw a code when that was THE only thing showing when he plugged me in? I don't understand. As far as being robbed of power...I have honestly not felt any of this, although I'm sure you guys are right. At Advance Auto the KS is $164. How are you guys finding them for $40-$60 and where? Ebay? One thing I do have to clarify is that in no way is my mechanic a crook. Many times when he has been able and I'm in a fix, he has done jobs privately at his home at hardly any labor cost. The problem lies with the owner of his shop, he is the one who jacks up labor prices so he can get the biggest cut. My mechanic, though has steered me clear of the most costly options numerous times.
I found this in the stickies for those saying the KS does not throw a code. This seems to say differently...
0304
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0304 points to a problem with the Knock Sensor. The KS is attached to the cylinder block. It senses engine knocking using a piezoelectric element. A knocking vibration from the cylinder block is senses as vibrational pressure. This pressure is converted into a voltage signal and sent to the Engine Control Module (The computer).
This malfunction is detected when an excessively high or low voltage from the KS is entered to the ECM. Possible causes include...
- the harness or connector (The KS circuit is open or shorted).
- the KS
The KS may be checked with an ohmmeter.
I found this in the stickies for those saying the KS does not throw a code. This seems to say differently...
0304
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0304 points to a problem with the Knock Sensor. The KS is attached to the cylinder block. It senses engine knocking using a piezoelectric element. A knocking vibration from the cylinder block is senses as vibrational pressure. This pressure is converted into a voltage signal and sent to the Engine Control Module (The computer).
This malfunction is detected when an excessively high or low voltage from the KS is entered to the ECM. Possible causes include...
- the harness or connector (The KS circuit is open or shorted).
- the KS
The KS may be checked with an ohmmeter.
Last edited by Doc; Jul 19, 2008 at 07:47 AM.
First off, just go on Ebay and buy a knock sensor. I purchased one back over a year ago for around 70. How do you know that your power isn't down?? Could it be that you have not rode in a max that had its full power?? It isn't hard to change, just need several tools. I'm sure you have to have some sort of friend that has tools. Read the stickies and change that bad boy. Get that power back!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,005
First off, just go on Ebay and buy a knock sensor. I purchased one back over a year ago for around 70. How do you know that your power isn't down?? Could it be that you have not rode in a max that had its full power?? It isn't hard to change, just need several tools. I'm sure you have to have some sort of friend that has tools. Read the stickies and change that bad boy. Get that power back!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'm sure I've driven my Max at full power as I bought it with 55K miles and have had it since. Also with the AC on for the summer, there is always a loss of power. Your question of how do I know my power isn't down is kind of a goofy one. By the seat of my pants is how I gauge things as I'm not one to hit the track or get dyno'd like many here. When you've been driving for 30 years you get a good feel for when the car is not performing to its capabilities. I'm not trying to be a wise guy, but your question came off as trying to make me look stupid, which is not appreciated. Your help and expertise are most welcome, though.
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Unfortunately, some people think they are "helping" by telling you to replace a part that has not yet been tested to be faulty. You need to find a new mechanic, because when someone is replacing parts based on fault codes alone, that means they are too lazy to pull out a multimeter and test the part in question and it's related wiring. Next time, take your car to autozone for the ECM scan. Record the code(s) and post back. A KS fault code alone won't trigger a CEL. For the axles, yes, replace the whole half shaft. The cost to replace the axle off sets the labor involved in disecting your old axle to replace internal parts.
It's a major inconvenience for people who seek help to be told to throw parts at their cars based on a gut instinct. It can be an extremely costly approach to troubleshooting/repair. It doesn't take a lot of effort or smarts to operate a damn multimeter, so I wish some members here would give up the "oh just replace that, it will die eventually anyways" or "it's happend to me, so it will happen to you" approach to fixing things. I can promise that most of the self proclaimed DIY-ers around here do not properly test electronic components before replacing them. Then, 5 alternators, 3 TPS's, and 8 ECTS's later, they wonder "why?"
It's a major inconvenience for people who seek help to be told to throw parts at their cars based on a gut instinct. It can be an extremely costly approach to troubleshooting/repair. It doesn't take a lot of effort or smarts to operate a damn multimeter, so I wish some members here would give up the "oh just replace that, it will die eventually anyways" or "it's happend to me, so it will happen to you" approach to fixing things. I can promise that most of the self proclaimed DIY-ers around here do not properly test electronic components before replacing them. Then, 5 alternators, 3 TPS's, and 8 ECTS's later, they wonder "why?"
I was just trying to help. I rode in someone else's max before i fixed my ks, and it was like night and day. I immediatley went and changed everything I could to make it run like his. Was not trying to be a smart a** or try to make you look stupid.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 585
From: London, ON, CANADA
Unfortunately, some people think they are "helping" by telling you to replace a part that has not yet been tested to be faulty. You need to find a new mechanic, because when someone is replacing parts based on fault codes alone, that means they are too lazy to pull out a multimeter and test the part in question and it's related wiring. Next time, take your car to autozone for the ECM scan. Record the code(s) and post back. A KS fault code alone won't trigger a CEL. For the axles, yes, replace the whole half shaft. The cost to replace the axle off sets the labor involved in disecting your old axle to replace internal parts.
It's a major inconvenience for people who seek help to be told to throw parts at their cars based on a gut instinct. It can be an extremely costly approach to troubleshooting/repair. It doesn't take a lot of effort or smarts to operate a damn multimeter, so I wish some members here would give up the "oh just replace that, it will die eventually anyways" or "it's happend to me, so it will happen to you" approach to fixing things. I can promise that most of the self proclaimed DIY-ers around here do not properly test electronic components before replacing them. Then, 5 alternators, 3 TPS's, and 8 ECTS's later, they wonder "why?"
It's a major inconvenience for people who seek help to be told to throw parts at their cars based on a gut instinct. It can be an extremely costly approach to troubleshooting/repair. It doesn't take a lot of effort or smarts to operate a damn multimeter, so I wish some members here would give up the "oh just replace that, it will die eventually anyways" or "it's happend to me, so it will happen to you" approach to fixing things. I can promise that most of the self proclaimed DIY-ers around here do not properly test electronic components before replacing them. Then, 5 alternators, 3 TPS's, and 8 ECTS's later, they wonder "why?"
Last edited by vilmaxima; Jul 19, 2008 at 04:26 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4
I have a knock sensor code plus a low fuel light that won't go away. If the KS does effect gas consumption could this be the reason why I have the Low Fuel Light constantly on?
Oh, 1 more thing...
My car also stutters while in idle, like say at a stop light. Could these be related?
Oh, 1 more thing...
My car also stutters while in idle, like say at a stop light. Could these be related?
I have a knock sensor code plus a low fuel light that won't go away. If the KS does effect gas consumption could this be the reason why I have the Low Fuel Light constantly on?
Oh, 1 more thing...
My car also stutters while in idle, like say at a stop light. Could these be related?
Oh, 1 more thing...
My car also stutters while in idle, like say at a stop light. Could these be related?
first off, the knock sensor is something you shoudl be able to do yourself. buy the part (cost: $60 to $120), get someone with small wrists, and just reach down under the manifold to unbolt the old one.
second, low fuel light. ive never had this problem, therefore i dont know the solution. but i dont guess its related to your idle or KS problem.
third, your "stutter" at idle could be quite a few things. i would start by cleaning your IACV (the big metal box next to the throttle body, it has 4 multicolored electrical plugs sticking out of it). its an easy thing to do for a beginner; and cheap, seeing as how the only part you will need is a new gasket (~$4)
this could also be things like fuel filter, misfire, motor mounts, MAF, etc. it really depends on what you mean by "stutter" - but still start with the IACV.
Last edited by ROCKART; Aug 25, 2008 at 12:55 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 704
From: FL
this is most likely three seperate things...
first off, the knock sensor is something you shoudl be able to do yourself. buy the part (cost: $60 to $120), get someone with small wrists, and just reach down under the manifold to unbolt the old one.
second, low fuel light. ive never had this problem, therefore i dont know the solution. but i dont guess its related to your idle or KS problem.
third, your "stutter" at idle could be quite a few things. i would start by cleaning your IACV (the big metal box next to the throttle body, it has 4 multicolored electrical plugs sticking out of it). its an easy thing to do for a beginner; and cheap, seeing as how the only part you will need is a new gasket (~$4)
this could also be things like fuel filter, misfire, motor mounts, MAF, etc. it really depends on what you mean by "stutter" - but still start with the IACV.
first off, the knock sensor is something you shoudl be able to do yourself. buy the part (cost: $60 to $120), get someone with small wrists, and just reach down under the manifold to unbolt the old one.
second, low fuel light. ive never had this problem, therefore i dont know the solution. but i dont guess its related to your idle or KS problem.
third, your "stutter" at idle could be quite a few things. i would start by cleaning your IACV (the big metal box next to the throttle body, it has 4 multicolored electrical plugs sticking out of it). its an easy thing to do for a beginner; and cheap, seeing as how the only part you will need is a new gasket (~$4)
this could also be things like fuel filter, misfire, motor mounts, MAF, etc. it really depends on what you mean by "stutter" - but still start with the IACV.
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4
ROCKART & Divewjason...
I appreciate the advice.
I'll get on that KS ASAP and invest in one of those Meter Reader. From what I've read they're affordable, come in handy and are easy to use. I'll do the Homework and get back to you guys.
I appreciate the advice.
I'll get on that KS ASAP and invest in one of those Meter Reader. From what I've read they're affordable, come in handy and are easy to use. I'll do the Homework and get back to you guys.
CLICK CLACK 1
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 26
From: PHILADELPHIA
My first attempt to change knock sensor was a failure
. The swivile joint was the only part moving, it would have worked but the nut holding knock sensor was in tha wierd position lucky me. Next morning with lots of effort i noticed that my hand could actually fit in sensor vally. Slipped in a 3/8 ratchet with 12mm socket could not brake bolt with hand, so I took the handle to my 1/2 inch jack braced it against ratchet and engine head and carfully applied pressure and WALLA
nut broke loose, gave a couple turns with ratchet did the rest with hand. Pulled out sensor and nut as one, sensor caseing was all cracked up def. BAD. Put in new ebay sensor hand tightened nut placed ratchet back in, gave it a couple turns and DONE, Also cleaned ground connection. Before sensor gas mileage was terrible trans shifting was bad thought it was going bad, and power was slugish. After install gas mileage is a lot better but I can't keep my foot off gas LOL, trans is back in sinc with engine {take note}, and boy is 0-60 asome!!!
. The swivile joint was the only part moving, it would have worked but the nut holding knock sensor was in tha wierd position lucky me. Next morning with lots of effort i noticed that my hand could actually fit in sensor vally. Slipped in a 3/8 ratchet with 12mm socket could not brake bolt with hand, so I took the handle to my 1/2 inch jack braced it against ratchet and engine head and carfully applied pressure and WALLA nut broke loose, gave a couple turns with ratchet did the rest with hand. Pulled out sensor and nut as one, sensor caseing was all cracked up def. BAD. Put in new ebay sensor hand tightened nut placed ratchet back in, gave it a couple turns and DONE, Also cleaned ground connection. Before sensor gas mileage was terrible trans shifting was bad thought it was going bad, and power was slugish. After install gas mileage is a lot better but I can't keep my foot off gas LOL, trans is back in sinc with engine {take note}, and boy is 0-60 asome!!!
CLICK CLACK 1
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 26
From: PHILADELPHIA
knock sensor will throw code but will not illuminate ckeck engine light, that is in deed a fact, if engine light is on there is another problem pull codes your self [ read stickes they realy help] : )
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 540
From: dallas, tx
+100. thats what every1 means. KS does have a code if scanned but it wont trigger the check light by itself.
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4
Update
Well I got a KS from ebay 50 buck shipped.
Read the stickies for more info...
Installed it but cracked the harness that plugs into the KS. Seems to be OK though. I no longer have the 0304 code
.
I also cleaned my TB ans IACV and EGR-thing (not all at the same time)
I had my share of difficulties though.
Days after the new KS install. My car would not start. I thought it was my starter so I took it back to O'rielly's since I have the lifetime warranty. Got a new one but still no luck. Bust out my new Multi Meter Reader and checked the battery. It was low on juice. Tried to recharge it but it was a lost cause, soooo I got a new one. Started right up!!
Needless to say with all the maintanance I've done she definately feels more powerful, and responds better when I smash on the gas.
I still have to figure out what's up with the "Low Fuel Light"
NEWay... I just want to say that all the info on this forum and the input given by its members is greatly appreciated!
Read the stickies for more info...
Installed it but cracked the harness that plugs into the KS. Seems to be OK though. I no longer have the 0304 code
.I also cleaned my TB ans IACV and EGR-thing (not all at the same time)
I had my share of difficulties though.
Days after the new KS install. My car would not start. I thought it was my starter so I took it back to O'rielly's since I have the lifetime warranty. Got a new one but still no luck. Bust out my new Multi Meter Reader and checked the battery. It was low on juice. Tried to recharge it but it was a lost cause, soooo I got a new one. Started right up!!
Needless to say with all the maintanance I've done she definately feels more powerful, and responds better when I smash on the gas.
I still have to figure out what's up with the "Low Fuel Light"
NEWay... I just want to say that all the info on this forum and the input given by its members is greatly appreciated!
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 58
From: Cary, NC
Just bought a KS from eBay ($50) as well as an OBD-II scanner (about $40). Going to install the KS into my wife's car as soon as they get in and I have a minute alone with it. Wish me luck. 
Also, I've seen in numerous threads that it may be good to replace the harness as well. Where can I find a KS harness?
Also, I've seen in numerous threads that it may be good to replace the harness as well. Where can I find a KS harness?
Just bought a KS from eBay ($50) as well as an OBD-II scanner (about $40). Going to install the KS into my wife's car as soon as they get in and I have a minute alone with it. Wish me luck.
Also, I've seen in numerous threads that it may be good to replace the harness as well. Where can I find a KS harness?
Also, I've seen in numerous threads that it may be good to replace the harness as well. Where can I find a KS harness?
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 91
From: Newton, MA
I had the same problem aswell. The check engine light has been on for the past few months now. I took it to AutoZone and the one of the workers scanned the car and the knock sensor showed up and the EGR valve. I first got the EGR valve replaced and the check engine light turned off. I then returned the knock sensor bcuz the problem was solved. A few weeks later the light came back on. I had the car scanned again and the knock sensor appeared again. I havn't bothered to get it fixed bcuz it hasn't given me any trouble.
I had the same problem aswell. The check engine light has been on for the past few months now. I took it to AutoZone and the one of the workers scanned the car and the knock sensor showed up and the EGR valve. I first got the EGR valve replaced and the check engine light turned off. I then returned the knock sensor bcuz the problem was solved. A few weeks later the light came back on. I had the car scanned again and the knock sensor appeared again. I havn't bothered to get it fixed bcuz it hasn't given me any trouble.
http://forums.maxima.org/1732415-post27.html
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 91
From: Newton, MA
[quote=The Wizard;6611179]It may not be giving you any trouble per se, but believe me, you're probably missing out on performance. Read this
http://forums.maxima.org/1732415-post27.html[/quote]
Thanks for the info. I'll probably need to get it fixed before getting my inspection sticker since the check engine light is on bcuz of this.
http://forums.maxima.org/1732415-post27.html[/quote]
Thanks for the info. I'll probably need to get it fixed before getting my inspection sticker since the check engine light is on bcuz of this.
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