knight71

This code just won't go away..this is what I've done so far.
1)Replaced ks and harness.
2)Cleaned the bolts where the KS is grounded with sandpaper.
3)Resetted ECU.
4)Tested the new KS..it's showing 565 mega ohms (withing spec!)

I always use the higher grade fuel, the car is running fine, lots of low end power...however at wot I feel these micro second hesitations..only when I accelerate hard. I have torqued the ks by hand, with a open end wrench..Any suggestions would be much appreciated!!...I checked the ecu yesterday,,and lo and behold the code was there..no other codes are present..it's been a week now and I just can't figure this out!!Help!!

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Have you done any other basic troubleshooting, like a continuity test on the wiring harness?

knight71

No..I guess, this is what's next on the agenda..any other possibilities on what could be wrong?.has anyone else experienced this?..and what was the fix?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

First, check to see that there's continuity between the KS harness and the ECU.

Any other codes?

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

did you check continuity across the sensor itself?

knight71

No other codes..How do I check the continuity between the harness and the ECU?..I will also try what Turbo suggested in trying to check for continuity in the sensor itself..thanks for the suggestions guys!

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

An ohm-meter between the pin on the KS subharness connector and the pin on the ECU connector.

knight71

Where in the engine compartment is the ECU located?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

It's not. It's mounted to the floor directly between the driver and passenger footwells.

knight71

U got me worried there..I thought the ecu near footwell was connected to another ecu in the engine compartment..okay..where do I find the pins located at the ecu to do the test?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Download the FSM, it says.

knight71

thanks!

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Knight,

Be sure to check for continuity in the connector harness too.

Disconnect the sensor from the connector harness and disconnect the connector harness from the engine harness.

Check for continuity in the harness. I forget which pins coincide but just do all the combos. If continuity is indicated, you're good to go. Of not, replace the connector harness.

If you end up needing one, here's where you can get it.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...Category_Code=

knight71

Thanks for that tip..I'll try everything within the next few days and I'll post back...(cross my fingers or , we will wait and see!)

knight71

update: There is continuity in the sub harness, so far, it doesn't seem as though the knock sensor is the culprit. Like I mentioned b4, the only other symptom I am having is a ever so slight misfire when I accelerate real hard, it's like micro second hesitations between 3-6k rpm.Also, at times when idling, the rpm dips to almost a stall, but it comes back up again to normal. My guess on my problem is a one of my coil packs is failing..I will give them all a test today..The only thing that's confusing is the ecu is not throwing a misfire code..is this normal?There are no other codes except the KS code..anyone with any experience want to chime in?

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Check out the coils but I'm not sure that's the problem. I've got the very same periodic RPM dip. I'm thinking it might be the IAC valve... I get no codes as well.

I actually got a knock sensor and an EGR low flow code at the same time. I pulled the knock sensor and sub-harness, checked for continuity in both, and found no continuity in the sensor.

I ordered a new sensor and sub-harness. In the meantime I lightly sanded the manifold contact surface on the sensor and plugged and unplugged the sub-harness 3 or 5 times and reinstalled the old stuff until the new stuff arrived. I cleared the codes with my scan tool and not a one has reappeared... that was like two weeks ago. Go figure.

On the RPM drop thing... I'm at a loss right now. I haven't investigated any further since it happens really intermittently for me but my first check will be the IAC and connections there.

barnone

Just to be clear, have you actually checked for continuity and short between the ecu and the main harness connector? (ie pin 64 of ecu and pin 1 of f23). It sounds like you just checked the subharness.

knight71

Okay..that's is the only thing left to check..where are the pin connectors located on the ecu?

barnone

Take a look at pmohr's sig line in the second post. Click on the FSM link and drill down to find the FSM for your car. Download the file EC.pdf .

There will be a section for DTC p0325. The entire testing flow chart will be there, together with graphics showing the location of pin 64 on the ecu (the knock sensor pin). Once you've actually pulled the connector off the ECU you can really go to town on isolating the problem.

Just a couple of things.
You might need longer leads for your voltmeter/ multimeter. You can try to securely tape a piece of wire (a few feet) around one of your test leads to act as an extension.
Get a friend to help hold one of the leads while you check the the other or get a good alligator clip.
Disconnect the battery before you pull off the ECU connector just to be safe.

If you follow the flow chart you will isolate the problem.

knight71

Thanks for the step by step instructions. I checked pmohr link and downloaded the info. I got confused when I actually took a look at the ecm and couldn't see any pins. The only thing I'm still confused on is how to expose the pins to see pin 64. Do I loosen the round nut in the middle to expose the pins?..I don't want to screw/mess anything up..thanks for all the info and sorry for being such a newbie

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Just pop off the white plastic cover, then you'll see the backside of the connector - how the FSM depicts it.

knight71

Thanks, I'll see how this last test goes, if this last test confirms everything is okay, then I'll test the coils. I'll be back shortly with an update..thanks again for all the info everyone

knight71

Update: I fully tested the ks..everything tests okay, so I can definetly rule this out as my problem..I think I have found a thread that relates to my problem..also I checked my coil packs and they all say Hanshin on them, which I found odd, since I have a 95.I always thought 99's had Hanshin coil packs and 95-98 had Mitsubishi...anyways, I was combing through old threads and I found 2 threads which potentially describe my problem and solution..I will try this electrical tape solution and post back..read these very interesting and eye opening threads:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ough-hell.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...eleration.html